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loosing power

Started by Guerrero, May 04, 2013, 04:05:28 PM

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Guerrero

ok,so the problem for now is,that while battery is atleast in medium shape it starts good,but badly keeps the rpm in neutral.litle bit jumping from 1,5-2k .
And how would normaly rpm's jump?i mean maybe for Vision there is some special way?mine is like almost all the time good to maximum then slowly down,stops at 3k rpm,and then slowly coming down to idle.
I checked the YICS for internal and external,and there was no leaks,not that i could find.But can there be som where else some vacuum leak?or what could be the problem?

People please,i need to get with this,because at the moment i am in the middle-can i repair and make V work,or should i sell it..personally me,i want to make it work,but i cant see the end for it for now..

any help would be great

QBS

#201
Are you sure that the carbs are well synchronized?  The slow drop to idle that you describe is an indicator of bad synchronization.

Guerrero

I do not know this,because i was not doing that my self,i dont have the clocks,and am not good at this.

Guerrero

#203
Darn.Now when bike is cold it starts good.i charged battery,everithing was great.did a test run,till gas station.Filled tank.To start was little harder.but i made it.Came home.left for about 10min.Offered my wife some ride.and nothing!!COuld not start,till the battery was dead.How come??
The charging is not the best,with light's on voltmeter is showing 13,5.I ordered battery wire set from Tiger.waiting for it.
But how come i could not start again???

edited:so last try i thought the battery was dead(i mean discharged)V stood for about 1hour ,i gues it got cool enough to start from 2 turns.

how and why? =)

The Prophet of Doom

New leads won't hurt, but just randomly buying parts is not the best way to get your bike running well

If you don't have synched carbs you are asking for trouble.
Do a search on $4 manometer

And go through the electrex fault finding chart to diagnose your charging system

Guerrero

i guess for carb sync i dont need just a manometr..i have never done it..maybe i will try my self.
Yes,i know,that putting in just parts wont help,i noticed that about 3 years ago,,when i started this whole disaster..i am trying my best,unfortunately no one lives near by me,who would understand Vision.

Guerrero

Just did whole electric test.and everithing seems to be good.

b_racuda

I am not sure if this helps, but when my Vision visited at the local repair shop they tried to adjust the mixture to right. That was impossible because of the flooding. They said that simple test for that is to adjust mixture screws totally shut, if the bike don't shut down something is wrong. In my case that happened. After their attemp to adjust the mixture there was no idle at all and the bike was terrible to ride and hard to start. When I took my bike there the idle was good and I did think that my carbs are totally fine.

Another thing was, that after repairing my carbs (Keyster kit) the bike wasn't idling as good as it should been. I thinked that I had air leak. I systemically did check every place where it might be and the only places were airbox. I am still missing original seal from the air box cover. Also the screws weren't holding it down proberly. So i took Plastic padding and put it to both pieces, the upper part and lower part so that when putting it together it kind of seal the whole box. Then I let it dry and after that put it back together. I also replaced the orginal screws with bolts and nuts to get it tighten air tight. That helped a lot and after it the bike did idle much smoother and started better.

Guerrero

will try something.but interesting,that when cold now it starts great,but when getting in normal working temperature it is a lot harder to start..

Jirik

And how old is your battery? Did you also make a load test battery? Maybe is really dead.

b_racuda

My guesses is that when starting at cold fine but not when warm :
- battery dead
- not charging enough (regulator or stator broken or both)
- something wrong with the ground wire
- valves not adjusted right

If there is even a doubt that battery is not in good shape buy a new battery. After that start with checking the ground, is the wire ok and the contacts to motor and to battery are clean. Then check the voltage when bike is running, is that ok with idle and with higher rpms to be sure that stator and R/R is ok. If the problem is still there maybe it is the valve clearances which are too tight.

Guerrero

As i mentioned before my battery is completly new.like 2 weeks.I did all tests for electricity.And i found no problems,only strange fact that my battery is charging maximum 13,9v. As for V people might say is too low,but for any other normal bike is enough.Even in test it says,that if it is more than 13,5 then just put away tools,everithing is fine.Stator has been rewund.anr works great.R/r is new.

Ordered now from Tiger battery wire set.IN a week will be on a bike.then well see,has it changed anithing...

b_racuda

Ok, how about the spark plugs, spark plug covers and the spark plug wires? Are they alright and new or original? Have you checked the valve clearances? Maybe answers to my questions are somewhere in the earlier pages, sorry not to read every page before writing...

Guerrero

same.spark plugs brand new(i have changed a lot of them in last year.)new wires and covers aswell.
Have no idea about valve clearance.Upgraded from low power version some time ago.I actually dont know about valve clearance.
Tomorrow will try something again with sync.maybe will be able to make better.

b_racuda

Ok, I also changed low power cams to normal versions and the valve clearances were too tight on the intake on both cylinders.

Guerrero

oh.ok will remember that.and try to do something with it

QBS

13.5 vdc is proper at idle or any other time.  It's not wrong.  Easy cold start and hard hot start, to me, would generally indicate that some adjustment in the carb is rich.  Most gasoline internal combustion engines like a rich mixture to start from cold.  Not so much when hot.  That's why carbureted gasoline engines have some type of mixture enriching device incorporated into their carburetors.

Guerrero

Quote from: QBS on July 31, 2014, 01:30:51 PM
13.5 vdc is proper at idle or any other time.  It's not wrong.  Easy cold start and hard hot start, to me, would generally indicate that some adjustment in the carb is rich.  Most gasoline internal combustion engines like a rich mixture to start from cold.  Not so much when hot.  That's why carbureted gasoline engines have some type of mixture enriching device incorporated into their carburetors.

well,i was thinking about that too,because carbs have not been adjusted till end,because when riding now i cant reach max rpm-1gear some 6-7k; 2-7k ;3 -8k rpm.Need to adjust that,and then i will see.
Because really even when the battery is sucked out (after when i could not start it hot)cold starts from 1-2 rounds

b_racuda

Guerrero, did you change the rubber fittings under the carburetors? I noticed that they are different in low power version, please see pictures in topic "Help - 'simple' exchange of camshafts possible?".

Guerrero

the rubber intakes?yes,ofcourse.they are different,i know about that,and i got new ones,well not new,bot the right one's for normal version.