Riders Of Vision

General => General Board => Topic started by: AirborneJW on June 17, 2012, 12:31:20 AM

Title: Removing a full fairing
Post by: AirborneJW on June 17, 2012, 12:31:20 AM
So I'm removing the full fairing off an 83 and I have a few questions.

I already removed the lower section and found that the oil tube is supported by a mounting bracket and I have no idea what to do about this. If I remove the bracket the hose is loose from what I can tell and that's not good. Are there any suggestions about what I can do about this?

When I remove the upper part of the fairing I'm supposing that I need to in install most of the electrical and then reinstall it after I install the 82 headlight frame?

Is there anyway that I can install a set of frame sliders?

These are just a few questions that I have right now. I'm going to have to start writing these all down because I know that I'm going to have a lot more. Thanks for the help  ;D ;D ;D
Title: Re: Removing a full fairing
Post by: Lucky on June 17, 2012, 08:01:49 AM
there is a fitting at the bottom of the oil fill tube that screws into the case. it should come out easily.  your cap may or may not then fit into the case. there were two sizes (i think for the retrofit kit) you'll have to get one from someone here if so.

the 83 has an additional harness that plugs into the headlight connector. you can just unplug theis as an assembly & plug straight in to the bikes main harness. it's the same connector. same for the turn signals.
Title: Re: Removing a full fairing
Post by: Lucky on June 17, 2012, 08:09:30 AM
Also, your going to be scratching your head on how to remove the "W" bracket from behind the fork tubes.

the trick:
loosen the 2 bolts on the W bracket, do not remove yet
jack the front wheel off the ground, SECURE the bike.
loosen the pinch bolts on the tripple trees for ONE fork tube only.
compress the tube into the lower far enough to get the bracket out & tighten a pinch bolt to hold it compressed.
remove W bracket.
reverse procedure to finish up
Title: Re: Removing a full fairing
Post by: AirborneJW on June 17, 2012, 01:38:25 PM
Thanks lucky glad I asked before I started. I would've been so lost then.
Title: Re: Removing a full fairing
Post by: Rick G on June 17, 2012, 04:47:22 PM
As far as the sliders go, there probably are none available as a bolt on, your going to have to invent the mounts for a Vision. As for me I just don't drop it on the ground at speed . I drop it sitting still.
Title: Re: Removing a full fairing
Post by: AirborneJW on June 30, 2012, 02:25:55 AM
So I Took off the fairing tonight. I couldn't remove that damn w bracket. Going to try again tomorrow and attack it from the top instead. I loosened one fork tree but it didn't budge at all and I couldn't figure it out.
Title: Re: Removing a full fairing
Post by: Rick G on June 30, 2012, 03:22:44 AM
Just loosen the triple tree and lift it up a bit, until you have enough clearance to get the w bracket off. It might help if you remove the tank.
Title: Re: Removing a full fairing
Post by: AirborneJW on June 30, 2012, 01:15:26 PM
Is there a seal  that I need for the headlight? I noticed that when you remove a fairing that the rubber seal is no longer needed but there is a small gap from the headlight and the housing. Or am I just seeing things? I also need to figure out how to better contain the wiring. It's in a bit of a state of jumbled mess and I need to just organize it better. Does anyone have any other ideas? There was a decaying rubber container that I had to cut off (more like fell off). Doe anyone have any other advice or tips that you've got from devious work? Thanks for your help guys much appreciated!
Title: Re: Removing a full fairing
Post by: Re-Vision on June 30, 2012, 01:44:16 PM
How did you know we do devious work?   LOL      BDC
Title: Re: Removing a full fairing
Post by: AirborneJW on June 30, 2012, 01:51:25 PM
Stupid iPad auto correct! Drives me crazy, I meant to say previous work.
Title: Re: Removing a full fairing
Post by: Rick G on June 30, 2012, 09:23:05 PM
The rubber condom is needed on the fairing, but not on the naked  bike. While it doesn't  appear like it , it all fits inside the head light shell . Its not a tidy arrangement , but just stuff it all in the best you can. I've cussed for years (decades?) about the lack of room in side headlight shells for all the wiring . Motorcycles of the 1950's and 60's had a lot less wiring and it was easy to  contain the wires needed for the bike to run. Along came turn signals , electric starters, front brake light switches and emergency kill switches. All needing a place to be connected . Headlight shells did not get any larger , in fact they got smaller! As I said  carefully stuff it all in there and then check that everything works, if not  open it up and see what came un done!
There is no gasket around the headlight reflector, none is needed.
My condom fell apart years ago , so I substituted  a small plastic case , to hold the extension loom and its connectors .
Title: Re: Removing a full fairing
Post by: AirborneJW on June 30, 2012, 09:35:59 PM
So I need to disconnect all of the wires and then run them through the headlight housing? I just stuffed them behind the whole housing assembly.
Title: Re: Removing a full fairing
Post by: German on July 01, 2012, 01:31:22 AM
Hello AirborneJW,

Lucky wrote:

there is a fitting at the bottom of the oil fill tube that screws into the case. it should come out easily.  your cap may or may not then fit into the case. there were two sizes (i think for the retrofit kit) you'll have to get one from someone here if so.

I can offer you such an oil cap from the naked Vision. Price including shipping is USD 20. May be you can get this part cheaper - it's only a very light plastic part with an O-ring as a gasket.

Kind regards
Harald
Title: Re: Removing a full fairing
Post by: jefferson on July 01, 2012, 06:02:05 PM
I think the oil fill cap will screw in and replace the fitting that the hose clamps onto. I am pretty sure that is what I did when I got naked.

Jeff
Title: Re: Removing a full fairing
Post by: Rick G on July 01, 2012, 07:57:06 PM
That's correct, they will be better protected in side the H/L shell. On my vision, the spigot that screws into the case is a different thread than the  screw in cap. I've lost a couple of the caps and got replacements  from South Seattle Yamaha . (best prices!) around 13.00 , local stealer was 24.00.