Riders Of Vision

hey i am new to motorcycles i have an 83 vision that i just bought it has been sitting a while, the carbs were cleaned a year ago but never driven since from what i am told i cleaned out the tank put a new fuel line on with a filter cranked it over till it fired it starts fine and even idles on its own for around 5 minutes but dies eventualy when you open the throttle it sometimes revs up but only to a certian point and bogs down and other times it just dies any help would be greatly appreciated thanks

If the carbs had gas in them , more than likely  they will need to be dipped. If you need tutoring in this procedure, contact Lucky , on this forum and get one of his Cd's. between that and  our help , you will get through it!

it sounds like eiter a crb cleaning or fuel starvation (blockage or synq adjustment is way off)
--Lucky

 :) Hello and welcome to the ROV, the only place a Vision should bring its new keeper!!!

I had exactly the same problem with "The Mistress" when I first got her...The carb's may still need cleaning, however, it may well work using a can of Berrymans carb cleaner, added into the gas tank, from your friendly Walmart for about $3.00 'ish...Worth a try ;)

or/and...it could be the carb's need sync'd.

             

Make sure the fuel line is not kinked and the vacuum line is connected to the petcock correctly.

Oh, btw, welcome to ROV!

YellowJacket!
aka David

thanks for the help i think i will pull the carbs apart this weekend also the yics is leaking so i will also fix that and hope fully be able to get it running

Before we go diving headlong into carb dip, hows your spark plugs/wires? I know these are vision carbs, but they were cleaned already, that counts for something...

ok i cleaned the carbs all jets out striped right down dipped and back together started up idles nice as soon as you touch the throttle it dies played with the sync a little and can get it to rev a bit better but then it wont idle. there are two brass screws at the bottom of the carb on the petcock side what do those need to be set at and is there any other set screws i should check i also did the yics fix and it is air tight thanks for all your help

When the bike tries to die, pull the choke on . If it then will rev up , the carbs are still gummed up , if  not then the problem is elsewhere.  Let us know.

This reaaaaaally sounds like an ignition problem to me.

With out experencing it in person, I'm going with the easy stuff first. It only takes afew seconds to  start it and pull on the choke . Finding  an electrical problem  will take longer.

Well yeh, it will, im just saying it sounds like ignition to me, could be fuel starvation too i suppose.

If it starts and idles then the ignigtion sounds fine to me.  It seems to me that one (or both) part(s) of the carbs isn't spraying (not spraying enough) gas down the throats when the throttle is twisted.

The two screws that you are talking about (as long as they are on the left side of the bike by the drain hose for the carbs) is the drain screws.  They are loosened to drain the float bowls.  they can also be loosed to check and see if there is gas in each bowl (good trouble shooting technique).  Loosen one screw at a time and see if gas drips out the drain hose.  This will tell you if both bowls have gas in them.  If they both do then take the tank off and the air filter and look down the carb throats.  Give the throttle a twist and see if there is a good stream of gas coming out the bronze colored nozzle on both the front and back carb.  If not then that is your problem.  The carbs will need to be taken apart again and the bronze nozzles removed (there is a small ball and a small weight in the tube where it sits that need to come out as well.

Try that and let us know what happens.  Sounds to me like enough fuel is getting through the nozzles to idle, but not enough to keep the bike running on higher RPM's (fuel starvation).

sounds silly but jets can easily be mixed up

NOT silly, at all , tha's why I use a jewelers loop, when working on carbs. Some jets look the same but are differant sizes.

ok carb cleaning round 2 i got on excelerator pump nossle working and the other dripping the diaphram is not looking that great little cracks, and the nozzle is plugged i had the nozzle off and ball and weight out and let it sit in carb cleaner now when i first take it out of the cleaner i can blow through the nozzle but after one blow the cloggs up again any ideas of getting the clog out and any one know the best place to get a diaphram? thanks

the wire on a needle threader, you know the little thing you stick thru the eye of a needle to put the thread in? picture of a girl on the flat metal part? clip the wire off one end, it's stiff enought to scrape away all the crusty stuff inside the nozzle without changing the hole size.

--Lucky.

I keep several sizes of multistrand electrical wire in my tool box , to clean out jets with. They don't last long but there disposable  and cheap.

how can you tell the differance between 82 and 83 carbs i was told the bike is an 82 and the motor is an 83 but i would like to double check before i buy parts thanks

The photo below is a set of 1983 carbs.  If you click on the URL, you can see more photos of the same set from different views.  (choose "previous", the photos are in reverse chronological order, sort of).

You can see two lines coming out the side of the carb, one is a return to the petcock (comes across the top in a T), and one is the inlet to the pump.  82 carbs don't have that.  I looked for a photo of 82 carbs, but I couldn't find one.

Brian

(http://i.pbase.com/g1/51/776251/2/94197697.RPI7PVyw.jpg) (http://www.pbase.com/moffetb/image/94197697)

If it still dies when you have got the A/C nozzles fixed then I would snip the rev limiter wire. I believe its the yellow/black wire on the TCI and in back of the speedometer. I unscrewed it from the back of the speedometer and put heat shrink tubing over the connection. I want to be able to reverse it later on.

I can't figure why you would want to reattach the damed , rev limiter wire !  It was always a nuesence!

'82 carbs have the  low speed adjustment (or the plug over it ) on the left side  at the lower rear of the  carb. The '83 has them on the right  with a larger screw adjuster or plug .

Imagine this scenario:
Your throttle pins wide open, you dont catch it in time. How long would 15k rpm take to bend valves?

The chances of that  are so remote as to be unbelievably remote , in any event thats why there's a switch right under your thumb,  to shut the thing down. Besides, I don't think your going to jump off and reconnect the wire if you miss a shift.
The rev limiter is set at around 12,000 to 12,500  and Vision race engines are run to 15,000,  Even I never tried to get it beyond 11,500 .

once again thanks so much for your help i havent been able to get into the bike again the week but i am still wondering about those screws one at the bottom of each carb on the left side just before the intake boots are those mixture adjustments i am working on 82 carbs cause they dont look like the picture

Quote from: Rick G on April 16, 2008, 12:05:36 AM
The chances of that  are so remote as to be unbelievably remote , in any event thats why there's a switch right under your thumb,  to shut the thing down. Besides, I don't think your going to jump off and reconnect the wire if you miss a shift.
The rev limiter is set at around 12,000 to 12,500  and Vision race engines are run to 15,000,  Even I never tried to get it beyond 11,500 .

I bet you i could grenade a vision engine without a rev limiter :O

I'm sure you could grenade anything!  But the choice of running on one cylinder , or cutting the wire is a simple choice for me, and I've had no problems , at least with the top end , the bottom end is another problem.
Mine won't pull more than 10,000 on a good day and 9,500  on a bad one, so the lack of a rev limiter  is academic.

Mine gets way too buzzy at 8500.  I rarely see 7k on mine with the riding I do...

Brian

I usually  cruse at 6000 to 6500, about 80 mph. But through the gears  I'll hit redline , especially if I'm pulling onto I40 with its 80mph traffic. I never really considered the Vision as buzzy at any rpm , not like a four cylinder , I dislike  the things on many levels.

Quote from: 123red82 on April 16, 2008, 12:14:27 AM
once again thanks so much for your help i havent been able to get into the bike again the week but i am still wondering about those screws one at the bottom of each carb on the left side just before the intake boots are those mixture adjustments i am working on 82 carbs cause they dont look like the picture

Back on topic.

I think you may be talking about the mixture adjustment screws.

I dont have my notes handy but I think a good starting point is to screw them both in until they barely stop then back them out 2.5 turns for the front one and 4 turns for the rear.

Can you post a picture of what you are talking about?

David

ok so i guess 3 times is the charm took carbs apart again pulled the nozzle off again and cleaned it using carb cleaner a wire and a heat gun (it was a suggestion from a bike shop) and after 45 minutes of picking spraying and blowing i got two excellerator pump nozzles that both spray evenly now i am sure all the adjustment are out how do i go about tuning it? thanks so much i will try to get pictures tomorrow of those screws

Now that your carbs are clean and functional MAKE SURE to get a FUEL FILTER inline between the petcock and the carbs.  You've got clean carbs and a 25+ year old nasty @$$ tank with who knows what inside of it that is just waiting to mess your carbs up again.

Put everything back together and see how she runs, then make your adjustments.

Quote from: Rick G on April 13, 2008, 05:01:51 PM
I keep several sizes of multistrand electrical wire in my tool box , to clean out jets with. They don't last long but there disposable  and cheap.

...and the wire is soft enough that it cannot change the size of a hole. You can twist several for a larger hole.

$0.02
;)
Coil

Could be the RR (rectifier).  I had similar symptoms, like hitting on one cylinder.  As mentioned on other threads, take a look at the connector between Stator And RR if you haven't already done so.