Two things

[QBS]

Distilled water and non phosphorus, non silicate anti freeze is an exceelent mix.  Distilled water is a must!

[Night Vision]

Distilled water and non phosphorus, non silicate anti freeze is an exceelent mix.  Distilled water is a must!

QBS; is there a brand name on your choice of coolant? I spent lots of time reading the very fine print on the flavors at the auto stores... but did not find any non-non ones... closest thing I could find was Havoline which was low-low (I think because I don't have the jug, my brother got that half of the mix)

[Rick G]

I've gone nearly blind,  going from auto parts stoe to auto parts store looking for nonsilicate antifreeze in this horse town.  I may have to go to the big city!
Q its the first I've heard of nonphosphorus anti freeze , live and learn!

[Aelwulf]

Moved from Tiff's POR thread to avoid chance of hijack:

Ok, I might be confused here.  On the topic of front wheel bearings the short bit on the diagram on Stadium Yamaha's site says it's B6302Z.  The number on the box I got (which could always be a wrong one) is 93306-30212.  The SKU when I ordered it is 93306-30203-00 for both front wheel bearings.  This make sense to anyone else or should I be calling 'em and asking WTF?

[Aelwulf]

Guessing no comment means I should be able to just go with 'em?  If I'm guessing at types right they look like they're the sealed types, and with the front wheel still on the bike they seem about the right size.

[Aelwulf]

On the cleaning note it has been cleaned some.  The engine still needs a considerable amount of work but at least now there's some silver shining through and a few layers of muck are gone in places.

I pretty much just finished finally getting the new fuse box on.  Time will tell but for now everything works and it started right up.  I can't find any of my electrical tape so I need to get some more to ensure no water can get in where the connectors were put on the wires, and a couple of the wires were shorter than I'd like to keep it in the stock location but it's working.  I used the stock screw hole on the side the wires come from and drilled a new one on the other side, holding pretty firm so far.  I also put a piece of masking tape on top of the cover to label which fuse does what.  I had to dremel off the piece of plastic Bill had riveted on the storage box to cover the old one so if anyone wants a pre-made cover to attach for their stock one I could send it to ya. ;)

I also got the front wheel removed to swap the bearings out.  I had the wrong kind of grease so had to run to get some and ordered new seals and washers while at it since the old ones were rather worn.  Whoever did it last did a rather lousy job, one side was nearly dry and the other had too much grease (I think of the wrong type).  At least one if not both of the stock bearings were installed backwards as well with the open side facing out.  The new ones I got are completely enclosed but in case those don't work for one reason or the other I'll just repack the old ones after a good cleaning.

I did hit a snag on this, main reason it's not done yet.  Apparently they can't just be slid in & out.  The housing around the bearings has to be heated to slide them out without damaging anything, and when replaced the bearings put in the freezer and possibly reheating the housing some again as well.  Have any of you done this?  What'd you use to get the bearings out?  One of those candle lighter things would take forever, it advises being very careful with a welding torch or to lay the wheel on stove burner with a piece of metal between it and the wheel.  I don't really have either of those options available to me.

It's gettin' dark and the light in the garage isn't the best but this leaves putting liquid tape on the carb boots, putting tapered head bearings on and the starter clutch screw fix/starter seal replacement.  For now anyway...

[Lucky]

pick up a heat gun from Ace Hardware for $20 bucks...

[Tiger]

  Have any of you done this?  What'd you use to get the bearings out? 

:) I did mine last winter...NOTE: DO NOT try and drift the bearings out cold & DO NOT heat till the housing glows red!!
I used a propane torch to heat the housing and then, with an old rug on the garage floor, slam the rim on the floor to loosen the bearing. When they are at the edge of the housing you can use a hammer and a drift to tap them out...Its a p.i.t.a. job... ::)

                       8).......TIGER....... 8)

[Aelwulf]

Its a p.i.t.a. job... ::)

Yeah, I seem to like those. ;)

Thanks for the tip on the heat gun, I probably would've figured they wouldn't work well enough.  I'll just have to see about borrowin' the money for one until the first (dang dogs breaking the back fence :P ) so it's not sitting apart for weeks.  It'd also be good to have one for heat shrink on future electrical.  I might see about picking up a propane torch as well if I can find decent one cheap enough.  I have some propane.

[vadasz1]

Aelwulf, if you are willing to go real cheap then I propose that you get yourself a methane-butt-regulator.  They come in real handy after the previous nights franks and beans buffetfest.  Really regulates the methane escaping from your butt and methane works just as well as propane and is practically free.  Just remember not to fart untill you require the use of the methane as you need some pressure builtup to make the regulator work correctly.

;D ;D ;D :P :P :P

[Aelwulf]

Aelwulf, if you are willing to go real cheap then I propose that you get yourself a methane-butt-regulator.  They come in real handy after the previous nights franks and beans buffetfest.  Really regulates the methane escaping from your butt and methane works just as well as propane and is practically free.  Just remember not to fart untill you require the use of the methane as you need some pressure builtup to make the regulator work correctly.

;D ;D ;D :P :P :P

And I could use the roommate's dog as a gas source. :P He eats about anything and has a tendency to toot along all night when he gets into something.

[jasonm.]

Aelwulf, your bearings were not put in backwards. That is the way it came from the factory. On a "one side sealed bearing". YOU ALWAYS face the non-sealed side out. So it can be repacked. I have had other early 80's Yamahas...they all were like this.

[Aelwulf]

Interestin'...I figured they were backwards as if I read right my Haynes said to install them open side to the inside.  I could've read it wrong though. :P

[Night Vision]

the oem ones I've seen are unsealed side out. I've packed grease into them like JasonM 'splained.
Haynes has been incorrect before

[Rick G]

Having the sealed side in, also prevents grease,  applied to the outside, from  ending up inside the hub where it will do no good.

Sorry for that,  it was a typo . credit it to a senior moment :D :D :D

[Lucky]

Smart-ass!  :D :D

[Aelwulf]

Yay heat-gun! :D It looks like it should be decent.  Has 3 settings: cool air, about 520 degrees and around 1,000-1,100 degrees.  Heats up in about 20 seconds and has a fairly narrow opening that I should be able to focus fairly well on the side of the rim.

Unfortunately I have some hefty catching up to do on homework and will be out of town this weekend so not sure I'll get to it in the next week but no plans for the four day weekend coming up so I'm hoping to get that done then and the tapered head bearings in at a minimum (barring any further surprises).  Probably get the liquid tape on the carb boots too.  That'd just leave the engine/starter stuff and fixing one of the tanks (probably the one that's on it now).

Speaking of tanks, what type of containers do most of you use for soaking with the acetone/MEK/etc?  I saw Tiff used a large garbage can, thinking of going that route.  I'll probably do the 'spare' that's on it now since that I know of it only has one small leak (on the side of all places) and has bad Kreem inside instead of the probably more difficult silver stuff.  I think I'm going to attempt the Caswell route, and once all's good do the liner trick on the bottom.

I've got to look on eBay but anyone off-hand know of anyone with a set of side plastics for sale at a reasonable price?  Mine work for now but I'd like to get a set that's not riveted together (mostly) so I can strip and repaint 'em with the tank.

That I know of they've only been dipped once and it's run ok, but for the experience I've been debating dipping the carbs a second time myself.  It should only help and I'd get familiar since they have to come off anyway for the boot fix.  I've got a can of carb dip unopened and feeling lonely I got in Colorado sitting in the garage too so...  Anyone think I should just leave it be since it's been working fairly well that I can tell?  Anything unusual I'd need aside from some guitar string and fishing wire?  Any new parts I should look at getting while doing so, or any kits I'd have to get off eBay etc?

I might also attempt the YICS fix since it's been sitting in the passenger door pocket of my truck for nine months so far. :P If that doesn't work out I'll just see if our board supplier has anymore in the oven soon. ;)

[Aelwulf]

Ok, front wheel's finally back on. :P That leaves the gas tank(s), tapered head bearings, starter clutch bolts & starter oil seal (and possibly starter rebuild), correct tires and putting the liquid tape stuff on the carb boots.  I took it for a ride up to the north end of town, definitely feels weird since it's been a few months.  Compared to the Meanie it definitely feels like a feather and had to get used to the sharper turning again. lol It apparently didn't like sitting on the center stand and a pair of jack stands for several months as my front shocks that had been ok are now about non-existent.  Looks like I'll have to do the Progressive upgrade sooner than expected.

KJ's needs the tapered head bearings, new seat cover (have a place in SLO that might work) and the gas tank done.  Hers may also need something with the electrical system be it just a new battery or a stator or R/R (or all of the above).  We'll see, I just know so far that both the headlight and neutral light are pulsating kind of with the engine.  Might just need some good connector cleaning, we'll see.

They both need another carb sync.  Mine might get another dip, time will tell.  From what I've heard of the '83 ones there's no way in Hades I'm trying a dip on those.