I've gotten my yikes box cut in half now, and sanded using a piece of glass and sandpaper (thanks h2o :D). I think they're reasonably flush, a few tiny flutters, but i think i'm ready to put a gasket in it.
About that gasket, i saw somewhere how to make one or how to get one, but i cant remember where? Any reason why i cant slather some RTV on the surfaces and call it good?
Maybe just slather it with jb weld?
ive yet to fix a yics, i have one now i just run with it. But you should be able to use regular gasket meteral. Should be able to buy a sheet 1 ft. X 1 ft. For about $2 at your local hardware store.
Im a little concerned, after looking at it, it looks like it'll seal up well, but im not sure how the middle will seal, and theres two slightly wider spots around the outside i'm worried about.
one word. Yamabond. Sticky as hell seals a crank case really good. Dont see why it wouldnt work on a yics
I'll look in to that, sounds like it'd work. On that same idea, is there any reason jb-weld wouldnt adhere to the plastic the yics is made out of?
If you get sick of monkeying around with thing, just plug the hoses and call it a day. I took mine off after it started leaking again. It runs great and surely can't cause me any more headaches.
i dont like using jb on plastic. Its just to hard and always seems to break. I think they make one now for plastic. That might work. I just figured you had some yamabond, hondabond, or threesbond, there all the same stuff. Its a must have in my opionion. I use it all the time for all kinds of stuff its farily thin, way thinner than rtv and if you get it on your skin dont let it dry. It wont come off eaisly. Im tellin you its really sticky.
Quote from: inanecathode on May 18, 2007, 03:48:57 PM
I'll look in to that, sounds like it'd work. On that same idea, is there any reason jb-weld wouldnt adhere to the plastic the yics is made out of?
I tried it on mine and it lasted about 6 months. The YICS flexes a lot and after a few months developed a leak. I was able to twist it and split it in half again. I sanded it really good but the next time I fixed it, I used a generous application of high temp/high strength epoxy. I held it together in a vice for 48 hours then sanded the edges and then applied another coating of epoxy along the edges. It has held up for over a year.
David
Quote from: zore on May 18, 2007, 03:53:09 PM
If you get sick of monkeying around with thing, just plug the hoses and call it a day. I took mine off after it started leaking again. It runs great and surely can't cause me any more headaches.
8) DITTO...Throw it in the garbage ;)
Quote from: Tiger on May 18, 2007, 06:16:16 PM
Quote from: zore on May 18, 2007, 03:53:09 PM
If you get sick of monkeying around with thing, just plug the hoses and call it a day. I took mine off after it started leaking again. It runs great and surely can't cause me any more headaches.
8) DITTO...Throw it in the garbage ;)
even though I am making the YICS boxes (available after this weekend-finally), I ride my V with the thing plugged at the motor,..........I think my V runs slightly better (for my riding style) without the YICS
which should be re-named to the YVLS
Yamaha
Vacuum
Leak
System
brand spanking new fully assembled YICS boxes for $45.00 plus shipping ($10 from each sale donated to this site) I should have 5 or 6 ready to ship next week,....and I'll post this info on my YICS thread as well
My V has the yics blocked off already with little nipples/clamps over the fittings on either cylinder. I picked up this particular yics unit for 5 bucks, and i'm interested if it'd make any difference on my bike or not. So the choices are down to jb-weld for plastic, yamabond, or a mystery high temp high heat epoxy (care to devulge the information dave? :P)
Can anyone get a definitive measurement on the kind of hose the yics likes? ___ID ____OD fuel injection hose?
Quote from: inanecathode on May 18, 2007, 06:28:11 PM
My V has the yics blocked off already with little nipples/clamps over the fittings on either cylinder. I picked up this particular yics unit for 5 bucks, and i'm interested if it'd make any difference on my bike or not. So the choices are down to jb-weld for plastic, yamabond, or a mystery high temp high heat epoxy (care to devulge the information dave? :P)
Can anyone get a definitive measurement on the kind of hose the yics likes? ___ID ____OD fuel injection hose?
to REPAIR a YICS box,..look no further than: http://www.xz550.com/YICS.html
I followed those directions, and they worked well,..........for making a gasket just trace the outline of the YICS box onto some grey gasket material (at kragen, pep boys, NAPA, etc,..) then draw the inside lines about 3/16 from the traced line, for the center lines use the YICS box as a guide, and it's easy to just add the circled corners after that,...if in doubt make it slightly oversize, so you can trim it once you get it all cut out,...use a hole punch for the screw holes.
I would file the mating surfaces flat after the band sawing, and then SCRUB the mating surfaces with DAWN or other de-greaser,..use HOT water,...then SCRUB again with lacquer thinner(use a red scotch scratch pad) or brake cleaner (NOT carb cleaner) then wipe clean.
the plastic will be saturated with gasoline, and oils, so to get GOOD adhesion, it must be SUPER CLEAN,.......then I would just use a thin coating of SUPER RED gasket sealant (red is high heat, high chemical resistance) on BOTH sides of the gasket, DO NOT wait for it to set up, just goop one half of the YICS, stick on the gasket, goop the other half, and screw the thing together. (remember the top 2 screws get an o ring or gasket, or sealant, I am told this is for 82 YICS boxes only)
wait till the following day, then attach two hoses to the nipples (aquarium tubing will work) dunk the YICS fully underwater, cap one hose and blow into the other,...you shouldn't see any bubbles, now let the capped hose go, and blow again, you should feel alot of resistance just like when i was capped. now switch,..hold the other hose closed, and blow into the remaining one,...again no bubbles anywhere.
if you have a leak along the seam, split it open again, clean off all of the silicone, RE-CLEAN it again,...and re-apply the silicone and tighten the screws.
if you have a leak in the body of the unit, you can brush on some epoxy (hobby poxy, caswell sealer, or TAP plastics "super hard epoxy" and let it set up fully)
use 5/16 fuel injection hose for replacement YICS lines, and small screw clamps at each end.
done like this this is a fairly permanent repair.
Awesome, recon saves the day!
Thinking about firing up the belt sander and touching the cut halves to it for a short period of time, then doing the glass sanding to get them flat. I hack sawed mine apart, got a tiny wave in it on both sides thats a bear to get out by hand.
I perfer soaking the yics box in very hot water.The box comes apart easily.
Quote from: Kevin on May 19, 2007, 12:58:08 AM
I perfer soaking the yics box in very hot water.The box comes apart easily.
nice tip,.......thanks
Are the two chambers the same size, or are their slight differences in volumne to compinsate for the different lenghts of hose to connect them to the engine?
Quote from: supervision on May 19, 2007, 10:28:13 AM
Are the two chambers the same size, or are their slight differences in volumne to compinsate for the different lenghts of hose to connect them to the engine?
Somebody measured it a while back. I think they are exactly 70ml each. Its somewhere back in the archived posts.
David
I measured it and made a post a while back, 70ml sounds right but honestly I'd have to find the old post myself to be certain. I checked the volume using water and geometrically, and then double checked a few times.
I know for a fact that the YICS made a difference on my '82. It leaked when I got it, I removed it, tuned bike; Sealed YICS re-installed, re-tuned: It ran noticeably better with it that without, and started more reliably. (now h20's 82 parts bike thanks to title problems) The YICS was plugged on my '83 and I was too busy enjoying it for the 15days that i had it pre-crash to fix the YICS. I can say however that there was a mild stumble at low revs present on the '83. I am of the opinion that the YICS does help both the power output of the vision, and it's general running characteristics (idle, stumble, etc)
all i know is , all this talk of nipples and clamps ,,,,
uh anyway, i run with yics, ,cracked it open, couldnt fix it on first bike, then made my own. was just too ugly, so i found one, cracked it open and did the job correctly.
i used yamabond to seal it up, and replaced the hoses with fuel injection hoses, clamped it tight on both ends, . it starts easy ,and i dont get any stumble.
I did the Lucky fix listed on www.xz550.com. Decided it needed some tweaking so I sanded all edged totally flat & even using fine sand paper glued to a small piece of glass. Then I assembled it, using the Ultra Copper RTV. That repair has held for over 4 years, now & somewhere around 6,000 miles.
On the Pumpkin, I did the same thing, except I used Aviation Form-A-Gasket instead of the Ultra Copper. Run 1 month & 25 miles, so I have no ideas of it's durability yet.
I agree, the low end & starting seems better with the YICS correctly functioning than if it is plugged off.
H2O
I tried without one but defn better with one fitted. Made mine out of nice heavy steel (like the Vision frame..) square section and covered with thin stainless steel. It'll take WW3 to crack it now.
I made the repair of the YICS, but only months later, it was leaking again. I finally made a set out of PVC and so far it seems to be working. My bike definitely runs better with than without and certainly runs better without leaks than with. Now you can feel the pulsing in the hose. Unfortunately, I seem to be having some starter problems, so the bike is down for a while. When I get the 83's carbs back from Lucky, I'm going to focus on getting the 83 on the road. Meantime, I'll swap the other 82 starter with my current 82 (the other 82 is not yet restored) to see if I can get it back on the road while I wait to get the rebuild parts or send the starter out for being rebuild.
Well, my supposed perfectly repaired YICS with the high temp/high strength epoxy developed both am internal and external leak so I decided to fix it. I unscrewed all three screws and if came apart in two halved right in my hand. So, the epoxy was crap. I had also coated the outside of the seam with JB weld which pealed off like a vinyl sticker.
I decided to do it Lucky's way...or at least the way he has posted on xz550.com.
I sanded both halved to make sure there wasn't any epoxy or JB Weld residue left. Then I put a little white paint on one side of the YICS and stamped out a template of the box. Made the template to look like the one on Luckys site with the cross bars then used it to cut out my actual gasket. I found heavy duty rubber fiber gasket material which is what I used.
Then I put a bead of red RTV on both halves of the YICS and sandwiched the gasket between them, put the screws back in and clamped it shut. I'll let it sit overnight and trim off the squeezed out goo tomorrow and then put it back on the bike after doing a leak test.
David
so far my j-beed YICS is holding up after 5k plus miles (knock on wood). when I went to seal the outside rim, I used some fiberglass dry wall tape and embedded into the jb... no gasket inside whatsoever... just the jb on the divider
I have also done another one with the red rtv and gasket method as you described.. have not tested that one as it is for the project.
YICS - You're In Constant Stress - with it. Any more?
"Y" I Could Scream!!!
"Y" I Committed Suicide. ::)
H2O
Y - It - Can't - Start
Y - It - Could - Stumble
Yes - It's - Crappy - Stuff
Yesterday - It - Could - Start
H2O
Y (now) Its Completely Sealed!
The gasket and red RTV did a great job of sealing it up....for how long, remains to be seen. So the next time it starts to run like crap, that'll be the first thing I check.
David
Yep It's Cracking Slowly however...
I wanted to get away from plastic because of the extreem heat
My Vision is new to me. Got my first one on June 2nd (last week). My second one is still in search. This forum has been most helpful! Thanks a bunch for being here. I have poured and poured over the posts in the last week.
As far as this topic is concerned, I pulled my YICS box off and tested for leaks. Only to find that it was leaking from the case screws. I tightened them and no more leak. I must be lucky in that respect. I have had other issues which I can devulge into in another topic if someone wants to read it.
Observations:
Even with the very slight leak that my YICS had, it made a huge difference. I took the bike out today and after not running for more than a week, it started right up...WITHOUT using the choke! - Thats a first for me with my V.
Acceleration is a bit better and the bog down that I had been having problems with is now gone. It idled a bit high but a few turns of the idle adjustment screw behind the throttle linkage on the carb fixed that. And now, idle is even more solid than before. The only thing now is a bit of a backfire, not as bad as before, when I'm decellerating. Im guessing that that is slight adjustment that needs to be played with.
I had also changed form a braided 1/4" fuel line to a braided 1/4" fuel INJECTOR line which is quite a bit more stiff.
In summary, the YICS is totally intollerant of ANY leak whatsoever. My guess is that even before I repaired it, the little leak that I found was probably much larger under operating pressures which are pprobably much more than mu lungs can stand blowing through the hose connected to it. :o
David
or: having that stiffer hose to the YICS is stressing it out more and contributing to leaks?
that was just a retorical question....
but those original hoses look like they could flex a little before they finally ended up split :(
Hey,
Great info but I got some important questions.
1. where is the YICS located on the 82?
2. I rescued my V from the junkyard and it ran, but it still runs like crap. I haven't touched the carbs yet (cleaned but not tuned) but other than that, how would I know if I have a bad YICS, other than taking it off and doing the water test?
YICS is on the right side of the bike, mounted to the carbs. Liik for a plastic (chromed) triangular shaped box. There are ports on each head that have hoses running to the YICS. If your YICS is missing, you need to make sure the ports are capped off. Also, until you et your V running well, it is a good idea to cap off the YICS ports. Save testing the YICS and hooking it up as your final tuning step. It can make diagnosing other issues & synchronizing the carbs more difficult.
The water test is the best method to see if your YICS is leaking (it probably is).
H2O
From that info, i'm pretty sure its history. I've taken my carbs out and cleaned them and there was no YICS stuck to them, not to mention there were plenty of plugged lines when i got it and since then i've yanked all the vac lines and plugged them too. I'll double check to make sure the yics holes are plugged up.
It is not uncommon for the YICS to have been removed by a previous owner. It actually doesn't connect to the carbs but to ports that come out of each head.
found both ports just a few min ago. they're both plugged and I didn't do it, so must have been previous owner. So are there instructions for building the new ones? I've read that just about everyone here has built 25 different YICS's's's's
I currently have my plugged off but will get it back online soon
Quote from: ColinthePilot on July 11, 2007, 11:40:01 AM
found both ports just a few min ago. they're both plugged and I didn't do it, so must have been previous owner. So are there instructions for building the new ones? I've read that just about everyone here has built 25 different YICS's's's's
check out this post by forum member reckon. He builds them.
http://ridersofvision.net/forum/zindex.php?topic=6054.0 I think the price is $45 for a newly made one from reckon that is tested for leaks and functionality.
Quote from: ColinthePilot on July 11, 2007, 10:49:48 AM
From that info, i'm pretty sure its history. I've taken my carbs out and cleaned them and there was no YICS stuck to them, not to mention there were plenty of plugged lines when i got it and since then i've yanked all the vac lines and plugged them too. I'll double check to make sure the yics holes are plugged up.
Do not plug the vacuum lines. You need to have the line to the petcock functioning or your petcock won't function properly. Also, the fuel pump requires vacuum. Just get new vacuum hoses & use them when you put everything back together.
H
2O
The only thign the yics is good for is to plug that space between the cylinders. It's a pretty piece of chrome. I found no differince in how the bike ran with it on or off, until it leaked, then I noticed the difference.
Quote from: h2olawyer on July 11, 2007, 12:48:04 PM
Do not plug the vacuum lines. You need to have the line to the petcock functioning or your petcock won't function properly. Also, the fuel pump requires vacuum. Just get new vacuum hoses & use them when you put everything back together.
H2O
My petcocks don't seem to work anyway. i yanked the vac lines and set the fuel valve to prime and she doesn't leak fuel and doesn't run any different. Also, my bike is an 82 and doesn't have a fuel pump. All gravity feed!
Quote from: ColinthePilot on July 12, 2007, 03:08:22 AM
Quote from: h2olawyer on July 11, 2007, 12:48:04 PM
Do not plug the vacuum lines. You need to have the line to the petcock functioning or your petcock won't function properly. Also, the fuel pump requires vacuum. Just get new vacuum hoses & use them when you put everything back together.
H2O
My petcocks don't seem to work anyway. i yanked the vac lines and set the fuel valve to prime and she doesn't leak fuel and doesn't run any different. Also, my bike is an 82 and doesn't have a fuel pump. All gravity feed!
82's also have a fuel pump. You will most likely have problems when the fuel level gets too low with out a pump. The pump is located with the carb assymbly.
I'll have to look for that. I took my carbs apart and didn't find anything that didn't look like carb.
I've been noticing SmokeBomb hasn't been running up to snuff lately....
sho 'nuff ... my YICS as sprung both interior and exterior minor leakage >:(
so I threw my sync caps on for now until I decide what to do...
but I immediately noticed that when the motor is rev'd... it doesn't drop back down to idle as quick, and I noticed a slight backfire when rev'd high, and quickly backed off... sound familiar Tiger? 'specially with your megaphones
I'll try it without the YICS for awhile, might tweak the pilot screws a bit..... at least give non YICS a go around....
so i tried Supervision's WD-40 can YICS mod. One test ride, maybe a half mile. She quit on me but that was before she was warmed up. after the restart she ran great and idled for about 5 min without complaint. she's never done that before without throttle intervention. I like it overall. lots of tuning to be done, but overall better than before.