Riders Of Vision

Does anyone have any tips on getting the old liner out? I have the striper, and I know I'm supposed to use warm water, but will that get the old por liner out well?

Also- what's the best way to seal the tank for the cleaning process? I'm going to use a piece of plastic and gasket material for the petcock, but what's the best way to seal the gas cap hole?

I'm not aware that anyone on the board has ever done the POR removal process.  I, like many here,  have done the POR application process.  When I did mine, I followed their instructions to the letter and was rewarded with excellent results.  So all I can say about the removal process is to trust POR to lead you straight and follow their instructions very carefully.

Use duct tape to cover the fuel level sending unit mounting hole.  Cheers.

here's trick I can offer after doing two tanks. I "discovered" it halfway through the first tank.

It isn't about stripping, but may help you or others later on.......

trying to get something to stay on the petcock hole and not leak while going trough the cleaning stages was frustrating.... cardboard/duct tape --- leaked... coffee can plastic/duct tape---- leaked..... seems that cleaner eats the stick off off duct very nicely.....

I ended up cutting up the magnetic business card that came with the kit (that I bought it off eBay from the "por-store")? to the size of the petcock opening. Put that magnetic business card over the petcock hole and duct tape over it.  

the magnetic card seems to "hold down" onto the metal to form a good seal

AND you'd be surprised how much metal flakes / rust particles stick to the magnet and are easily removed/ wiped off.?

works slicker than snot on a door knob....? ? ;D ;D ;D

Hey member, I did my por this just yesterday.  Pretty simple stuff.  I followed the instructions given by por and also studied some previous posts from members that did the por job themselves.  Took me a few hours but Im happy with the results for my first time.  I used stripper also just to be sure, turns out my tank hasnt been por'd.  For the petcock hole, I cut a piece of metal to the shape of the hole with metal cutters, drilled holes for the screws and placed it on. Didnt give me any problems, also i used plastics yogurt lids for gaskets.  Basically i put in the stipper, let it sit on all sides, shaking the tank in between then poured it out and washed tank several times.  Then again with the degreaser, let it sit on all sides and shake periodically, then washed it out several times. Then let it dry out a bit, put in the rust free crap, let it sit, shake well, then washed out real well. Then did the sealer, but this time, i stired the sealer, didnt shake the tank, went on pretty smoothly.  I think i did ok with the tank.  But one thing that did piss me off was the flash rust after the rust proofing.  I had quite a bit of rust.  I think i may be normal so i just sealed the tank after it dried.  For you other guys that did the por job, did you get alot of this flash rust too,  did you just seal it anyway like i did.  Looked pretty good after the sealing.  Also for drying out the tank, I used a blow dryer at first until my sister wanted it, so what i did was used a plastic bag, opened both ends and taped one end to the tank opening and the other to a heating duct in the house.  Dried the tank out fast enough.  Good luck with  your PORing job.

I did the Heavy Duty kit. ?Just follow the directions. ?I actually did it in 2 phases with the stripper. ?Did it the first time, and drained the tank into a pan (I was going to throw away anyways) and that was able to loosen up alot of the old POR, then wash out the tank, and then pull all of the big pieces out by hand, and then do it again. ?I was able to get it all out, but it did take time, and I was really anal about it!

It can be done! ?I am currently using the tank I did. ?And I have not had one problem with it yet (knocking on wood sound in the background)

My one tip:
DO  NOT  SHAKE  THE  CAN  OF POR !!!
stir it only.

--Lucky

Quote from: Lucky on March 20, 2006, 10:11:14 PM
My one tip:
DO  NOT  SHAKE  THE  CAN  OF POR !!!
stir it only.

--Lucky

True. I used to use a drill attached paint mixer for the other POR products I've used... of course those came in a gallon size can at minimum. This can is so small by comparison, it's going to be interesting.

;)
coil

I used that silver HVAC tape used to tape up duct work.  I used a couple of layers.  Worked great not leaks just left a small residue that came off with some rubing alcohol.

Someone had used a tank sealer on my tank prior to me getting the bike, I'm not sure what it was but it was a sort of cream/light brown colour and had flaked off like cardboard.  I spent many hours with first sharp stones then nuts and bolts shaking the tank and rotating it with about a quart of kerosene until all the old liner was removed.  It wasn't until after I had finished that I discovered that POR had a product to remove old sealer, damm!

Anyway the up side of my many hours of noisy shaking was that the inside of the tank looked like it had been sandblasted and following on with the POR tank kit, cleaner, acid etch and sealer the result looks fantastic.

I tried duct tape but it always leaked slightly so I used the aluminium tape on both openings which really sticks when you rub it down.  If you have an old petcock even better for that hole.  I used the tape under the petcock as a seal.

The white to brown sealer in Kiwi's tank was Kreem. I used it 20 years ago and It held up good. To remove Por you can use  MEK. avaliable from any hardware or paint store. I made petcock plugs out of scrap metal with a piece of innertube for a gasket. I also had excessive flaking in  the tanks after using the metal prep. I ended up sticking a air wand in the tank and blowing alot of the flaking out.

Duct tape always plugged the petcock hole just fine for me.  But then again, I was born in North Carolina.... and we are duct tape experts!  ;D

I guess it doesn't matter to me if I get a bit of a leak in places. I decided instead of just painting a strip around the tank to just paint the whole thing. Not that much more effort and I don't have to mess around with tape. I hate tape. Unless it's duct tape and I'm Poring

So "tomorrow" was actually today. I only have the stripper in right now but she's doing the job. It says to leave it in 15 min but no more than an hour. I'm going closer to the hour. Within five minutes of it being in there I can hear things rattling all over. It's probably going to be a pain to get all the stuff out but it seems to be doing the trick.

Most posts as it comes along. I hope to at the very least get the POR on and a coat or two of primer today. Tomorrow, she'll get some paint.

I thought I had everything out with the first rinsing after the stripper. Apparently not, after using every product I've found a flake or two left over. I crafted a rake that grabs stuff from around the gas cap opening and now I haven't seen a flake in awhile. The garden hose was amazing, I love it when you have one with hot water.

The tank is drying now. I have a hair dryer going and I plan to leave it there for awhile. I'll search through to see how long everyone else did it. Later tonight I'll tape up again and Put the Por in. I'd read here about using the whole can versus using only alittle. I'm going to use the whole thing and roll it until I'm sure nothings moving around. Any idea how long that's going to take me at 70 degrees?

I dumped a whole quart can into it then drained it out.

Watch how fast your tank will rust after using the acid.

The POR takes a good 5 days to cure, it's longer to wait, but you might want to wait the 5 days before you  start the paint/bodywork on the outside.  i'd think the vibration/offgassing of the paint & POR could concevably cause a problem..

--Lucky

For drying I ran an old vacuum cleaner that had a connection at the back for plugging the vac hose in for blowing.  This provided a low pressure high volume air supply.  Don't use it in vacuum mode.  This will suck air from the tank thru the motor normally (very bad from an explosion point of view).

If you do this inside (a garage?) or in the sun (if you have any) this won't take too long.

I found that there was more POR than I needed.  It is not very viscous so it won't run very fast.  Turn the tank slowly allow 5-10 mins of standing between turns.  It took me a few hours to coat all of the insides and some time to remove all the excess.

Ok. I taped a blow dryer to the opening last night and let it run for a few hours. I thought it was dry but this morning I checked and it definately wasn't. So I tried using duct tape to seal off the dryer and the filler hole, dryer ran for a good half hour then crapped out. Apparently sealing it off completely is not a good idea.

I have another one hooked up and it's running but not totally sealed off. We'll see what happens.

Finished the job

Looks great and I guess I'll know how well it worked in a few days. I'm taking Lucky's advice and not painting until thursday but hopefully the bike will look all nice and snazzy for the weekend.

A few things. I rolled my tank around for 2 hours. I think I got a good coating and nothing wanted to drain from the petcock hole. Forgot that POR products use a xylene base. Took five minutes before the throat was sore and I wised up enough to put my respirator on. I'm a complete idiot.

I went ahead and painting the edge of the filler hole, the inside edges as I could reach them and the gas cap with a small amount of POR that stayed in the can (barely enough to cover the bottom so I'm not worried about losing too much to that).

Hopefully I'll have pictures soon. This gives me time to work on the other two bikes I got- a 75 kz 400 that I'm fixing and trading a guy for a target pistol for my girlfriend, and a 78 suzuki gs 750 for shits and giggles.

See, the POR job is not that bad, just gotta follow the directions to the letter, and not be in a hurry!

I ordered my POR kit yesterday, but have to wait to do it because the tems are still dropping down below 50 at night & my wife won't let the tank in the house.  meanwhile, it's all emptied & taken apart waiting for me...  i hope it warms up soon!!!

Quote from: vavision on March 28, 2006, 02:01:21 PM
. . . a 75 kz 400 that I'm fixing and trading a guy for a target pistol for my girlfriend. . ..

You know, that statement could mean several different things & only one of them won't get YOU killed!   ;D

H2O

haha

Yeah, well this is for her to learn to shoot a gun. Hopefully I'll be fine. If I drop off the board send the cops looking for Monica E. Martinez of Charlottsville Virginia

Quote from: vavision on March 28, 2006, 06:12:58 PM
haha

Yeah, well this is for her to learn to shoot a gun. Hopefully I'll be fine. If I drop off the board send the cops looking for Monica E. Martinez of Charlottsville Virginia

Motorplow that would be you. ;D ;D

ROFLMAO!  ;D :D ;D

I'm on it... Already started a file.  Do you think an attorney will be needed?

Ok-

Well the Por held up for almost 3 days. Now all my leaks are back. I don't understand, I followed teh directiosn to the letter. I let it dry a full 100 hours with a blower keeping constant airflow through the tank. Then it worked for 3 days of riding. Now I have the leaks again, sure they're slower but they're going to keep me grounded for awhile.

I emailed Por and I'll call them tomorrow but this is frustrating.

I need to ride the bike home tomorrow so I don't really have the time to do a permanent patch to my pin holes. Is there any kind of tape that will hold well for a day or two against the gas?

How did you patch the leaks before PORing the tank?

i've used the por patch method: por & por soaked patch cloth. it looked ugly, but held up great..

i doubt any tape will work, the gas will eat the glue, but the 2 part epoxy putty Car Quest & others sell works great & dries in minuets.

--Lucky

a couple of thoughts:
did you let the tank cool completely before PORing it? if it was still hot from the blowdrier, perhaps it could have contracted as the por was drying..?

you didn't shake the Por tyo mix it did you it must be stirred or you add bubbles which weakens it..

I pored my tank today, it's sitting in my tub now drying. (it's warmer than outside & is out of the way)

--Lucky

Tank was cool because I didn't have the time to roll it after I dried it out.

Definately stirred it- that got beaten into me way before I did it. I used jb weld and there were no leaks during my last rinse.

It held fine for three days, then cut out. I don't understand it. Hopefully the people at POR will set me straight.

Keep in mind that POR is really intended to protect from rust. it may seal pinhole leaks to a certain degree, but the Metal Prep will show any others that were only held together with rust & paint.  it's a good coating, but like everything else has it's limits.

do a careful exam on the tank, locate any new leaks & use the epoxy putty to seal them, you still should be protected from further rust in the tank, you just missed some 'hidden' rust.  it's also possable that some previous holes were patched with bondo & painted over which may have not shown up before the metal prep...

quick fix to get home.   bar of soap and duct tape. works for 4x4's should work for bikes.

ps2- thanks

I got in touch with the guys at POR, they didn't have any answers for me other than buy another kit and try again. They didn't see anything wrong with what I did though, so that's frustrating. I think I'm just going to flush the tank, fill it with an inert gas and close all the leaks with the welder. Then I'm going to take blurred vision's idea and use bondo around the edge to get rid of the stamped look. Then finally repaint.

VA,

         Honest, a small patch of the Epoxy gas tank putty will fix it in minutes and last for years.
         Ride it this spring and repair/Bondo/paint it next winter.
;)
$0.02
coil

Coil-

This is why it's nice to have two Visions. I can lay this one up for a bit and ride the other, or swap tanks since I really like the bike naked and removing the fairing on the other seems like such a chore.

What size of POR did you guys order and more important what size do i need to order for my 2 Visions. Thanks

I bought mine from the POR web site. It's the standard motorcycle kit. You will need one kit per tank. Follow directions to the letter!

And don't forget the GLOVES!!