Hi guys! I have to repair my starter clutch but i need this rotor removal tool to remove the rotor. I think to make it by myself. I want to ask if somebody has a drawing with dimensions of this tool - Please share it with me. It will be very useful.
Regards :)
do you have Sears? Craftsman tools? http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947626000P
or go to Auto store with this picture
(http://s.sears.com/is/image/Sears/00947626000?hei=250&wid=250&op_sharpen=1&qlt=90,0&resMode=sharp&op_usm=0.9,0.5,0,0)
I got the Sears one, think it was about $20, maybe $30. Many suggest changing out the botls with something harder but mine worked fine out of the box so you may or may not if you go that route.
I got mine from Autozone. I had a choice between one in a cardboard box and a nice plastic case.
Guess which one I picked.
It's a good, cheap tool to have around.
take the picture shown before to a tool vendor,,, when you get home , set the tool up, place a box with old towels in it under the rotor tighten the center bolt as much as you can , and then hit the center bolt just as hard as you can with a large hammer. it may take a try or three or mabye ten, but the rotor will "pop" off into the box--- make sure as you remove the rotor from the box that you find ALL of the parts 3 springs,3 bearings ,3 pins
if your part is beyond repair or use you can buy one from dennis kirk.com, old bike barn .com and many others. this same clutch assembly is used on quite a few motorcycle engines, and is still in production today .
Quote from: Aelwulf on December 09, 2008, 09:57:21 PM
I got the Sears one, think it was about $20, maybe $30. Many suggest changing out the botls with something harder but mine worked fine out of the box so you may or may not if you go that route.
When I used a 2 lb hammer (1 kilo) I found that I needed to buy stronger bolts. Now I use a 4 kilo sledge hammer. With the puller just tensioned up with an end wrench and 1 short smooth swing at the puller pops the flywheel right off.
With a big hammer, the strong bolts are not necessary.
$0.02
;)
Coil
Thank you for advices guys! I decided to try to pull out the rotor with my clamp. I tighten the center bolt as much as i can and when i hit the center bolt with the hammer rotor pop off. :)
(http://w4.bikepics.com/pics/2008/12/10/bikepics-1505795-full.jpg)
Unfortunately the starter clutch is very damaged as you can see...
(http://w4.bikepics.com/pics/2008/12/10/bikepics-1505803-full.jpg)
(http://w4.bikepics.com/pics/2008/12/10/bikepics-1505808-full.jpg)
(http://w4.bikepics.com/pics/2008/12/10/bikepics-1505811-full.jpg)
The rotor is damaged too but i think i can use it. What do you think?
(http://w4.bikepics.com/pics/2008/12/10/bikepics-1505798-full.jpg)
(http://w4.bikepics.com/pics/2008/12/10/bikepics-1505805-full.jpg)
What i should do now?? Where can i find new starter clutch? Any ideas...? :-\
starter clutches for yamaha bikes are a bit of an oddity,,, what worked well 20 years ago is still in use today
if you have a motorcycle shop nearby, you can ask for a starter clutch for a yamaha v-max ,(or many other bikes ) and they can get it . this part is not specific to one motorcycle,, over 20 models have used it ,in many engine sizes .
I checked at my local yamaha dealership for new clutch and they told me $170. :o Crazy! I bought a second hand clutch form vmax for $90. It is in very good condition like new. :)
What i should do now with this damaged holes in the rotor? I can't buy new rotor. Any ideas?
(http://w4.bikepics.com/pics/2008/12/10/bikepics-1505805-full.jpg)
drill 'em out & tap them for 10mm bolts, get the cover welded up & ride.
Four or five years ago I had the misfortune , to have the threads in the puller holes in the fly wheel, fail during removal. The worst part was that the fly wheel did NOT come off!
I bought a 10 mm tap and cut the nose off to make a sort of bottoming tap. The 10mm was too small so I went to (I believe, it was awhile back) SAE 5/8 and modified that tap too . By buying the appropreate bolts I was able to remove the offending fly wheel.
Quote from: Lucky on December 23, 2008, 05:57:15 PM
drill 'em out & tap them for 10mm bolts, get the cover welded up & ride.
Excuse me Lucky but i didnt understand you. :-[ What exactly should i weld up? :-[
P.P. Marry Christmas everyone!!! Best wishes!! :D
Hi guys! Yeterday i have done with starter clutch fixing. I fit together all parts and put the new oil. Then i pushed the START button and after a few turnovers i heard very hard knocking sound. It was like metal agaist metal. It is not every time when i'm trying to start the motor. When the engine is running there is no knocks like this.
Before the overhaul there was the same knocking sound. I thought that the starter clutch cause this sound.
Any ideas what can cause this knocking sound? ::)
Regards
you can get some backlash when starting....it will sound like a pretty hard knock but will not be present once started.
V starter clutches can make some really strange and disturbing sounds when cranking with a weak battery. The causes are very mysterious and largely unknown. Speculation abounds, but nobody knows for sure what actually transpires within the deep dark confines of the left hand engine cover to emit what can be some truly frightening aural emissions. However, compression induced kick back (crankshaft reverse rotation) caused by the starter being too weak (due to a weak battery) to turn the crankshaft fully through a compression cycle, is certainly a suspect.
Veteran V owners have learned to ignore the knocks and clanks, and focus on the faith that a properly attached and assembled V starter clutch will occasionally make such noises, but continue function dependably for many thousands of miles.
Thank you for the advices guys!
I thought that the problem can be the starter motor.
So i'm gonna charge the battery or i will buy a new one if my is dead.
In future i will learn to ignore the knocks and clanks as veterans.
Best Regards! ;)