timing slipped

[clarence]

Howdy . I thought I might explain a strange thing that happened. I removed the cam chain tensioners to inspect them and when I replaced them one of the cams had slipped a tooth. The bike was way down on power. I realized later that each piston should be on tdc compression stroke when doing this. Otherwise the tension of the valves on the cam can spin the cam around a tad when the tensioner is removed. It,s all fixed now. Lucky I didn't bend a valve.

Also I decided to finally adjust the valve clearances. Only 1 valve had a clearance. I ended up needing 5 shims. I will need 3 x 250's and 2 x 245's. I am in australia. Does anyone know of a source for these shims, or perhaps an exchange?  I have 2x 265's 1x260 1x270 and 1 unknown. [marking must have worn off].

Another odd thing I noticed is when cylinder 1 is tdc compression stroke, the cam lobes point away from each other. When cylinder 2 is tdc compression stroke, the lobes face each other, if you get my drift. I assume this is normal?

Cheers Clarence.

[fret not]

Are you following the steps for cam timing in the service manual?

[davexz]

Two sources are:

crc2onlinecatalog.com
z1enterprises.com

Kawasaki shims work if they are the same size, can't remember for sure the size right off.

[clarence]

Are you following the steps for cam timing in the service manual?

will check manual. it must be right because the bike runs fine . it just seemed a bit asymetrical .

@ davexz cheers for that.

[Hartless]

i have a suspicion that this is what happened to my bike , i just jumped  the gun tearing it apart haha

[clarence]

ok looked at manual and the cams are opposed in their orientation between cylinders.

[Rikugun]

I think that is because the rear cylinder/head faces backwards.

The shims are 29mm and can be sourced from numerous online suppliers (e.g. K&L) individually and in kits. I've seen them sold in lots on e-Bay sometimes too.

[Rick G]

Triumph shims  will work as will toyota  shims

[clarence]

found some shims locally :D $14 aus each  :( thats about $13 us. put them in and it runs so much better. seems to have more low down power and even sounds better if thats possible. nearly every shim replaced was reduced by 2 sizes. I put this job off way too long. will check them again after 5000 km's.

[Rikugun]

I'll bet it idles smoother too.  ;)

I've often said valve adjustment is the most overlooked maintenance item on bikes. I'm glad you got it squared away but I'll bet the motor is even happier! Hopefully there is no long term damage.

[clarence]

yep it idles perfectly now. Better than it ever has. I was thinking about selling it, but I cant bring myself to part with it. Will keep it forever I think.

[fret not]

You genuinely like the bike, so you would regret selling it.  Just ask anyone here that sold theirs.

[Tiger]

...I was thinking about selling it, but I cant bring myself to part with it.

Once all the frustrations of getting to grips with their Visions are sorted, this then becomes the common theme.
A Vision resurection is not for the faint of heart. They are neither free or cheap!!!

However, once all the gremlins are evicted, the main 'fixes' are done, then the fun begins 8)

The first full year riding is to sort out all the wee tweeks needed now and again and to getting used to each other. Remember, most of these old girls have been in deeeeep hibernation and need time to reawake properly!!! Each year after the first gets better and better....

Congratulations and arise as a true Visionary...Enjoy 8) 8)

                   8) ....... TIGER ....... 8)

[jasonm.]

you should check valve clearances every 10k miles  !!!  it is common for the clearances to shrink on these older valve trains. 20+ years ago, Here in the states ....who would have thought we'd be burning corn pee?

[Brian Moffet]

who would have thought we'd be burning corn pee?

I hate to tell you this, but it's not corn pee.  At best I would call it yeast pee, not corn bee. That would be like calling it beer pee, when in fact it is human pee (unless you have a horse that drinks beer). 

Then again, maybe you refer to pee by the transformation of something, in which case I think I'll go make some martini pee.

[clarence]

thought I might add, the r/r shorted recently and the stator finally burned out. It was the original and had done 60,000 kms. I have quite a bit of experience winding 3 phase stators with my wind gen hobby, so I gave it a go. Burned the stator on a gas stove. Coated it with 2 coats of epoxy resin. What I did next is unusual and probably not optimal. I had lots of 0.7 mm enameled copper wire lying around. the original stator wire  appeared to be approx 1mm, so I doubled up the 0.7 mm wire, "two in hand", so the new wire is effectively 1.4 mm. I could only manage to get about 22 turns per tooth. Each completed phase had 0.7 ohms resistance. I connected it "star" like the original and coated the finished stator in 2 more coats or epoxy resin.  It seems to work well. Has  less volts at idle, about 12v dc rectified,  Has about 60 volts ac between 2  phases at 5000 rpm.  I have done about 1000 km's since the rewire. I am using a s/h r/r until my new unit arrives from ebay .
The battery is keeping charge well, and no problems when night riding with high beam. I hope the 5 minute set epoxy resin I used is oil and heat resistant.. So far so good. Unfortunately I have no pics of the procedure. I am cautiously optimistic that the stator will last. It produces less volts, and that should put less stress on the r/r. The stator has a lower resistance so it shouldn't get as hot, theoretically..... Also it might be possible that if stuck in traffic idleing with the lights on, the voltage may be a bit low. I will do a test with lights on low beam, and see what happens.
cheers Clarence.

[Rikugun]

Thanks for the informative report on your custom built stator.   :)  Please do keep us updated. Is the new R/R coming from eBay an F/H? I bet that will bring the idle voltage up where it belongs. The no load at 5k seems to be where it belongs as it is.

I wouldn't worry too much about the negative effects of oil on your new stator. Apparently, Visions don't get enough oil on them to keep them cool!  : :(  :o D  ;D

[clarence]

Thanks for the informative report on your custom built stator.   :)  Please do keep us updated. Is the new R/R coming from eBay an F/H? I bet that will bring the idle voltage up where it belongs. The no load at 5k seems to be where it belongs as it is.

I wouldn't worry too much about the negative effects of oil on your new stator. Apparently, Visions don't get enough oil on them to keep them cool!  : :(  :o D  ;D

r/r is a SH633-12 but its only $30 delivered. Will see how long it lasts. The f/h regulators are mosfets I presume? From what I hear they last pretty much forever.

[Rikugun]

The jury is still out re the MOSFET longevity but I'm hopefull.  :)

It sounds like you got a good deal on yours. Good luck with it but keep your eye on the voltage gage, regardless of which type of R/R is used!

[fret not]

I also hope your 'new' stator holds up.  You mentioned using 5 minute epoxy and hoping heat won't bother it, that MAY happen, but my experience with epoxy leads me to think it will soften at about 140f or maybe lower.  Most epoxies soften with heat unless they are specially formulated to withstand heat.  There are some special epoxies made for the aerospace industry that are very good at withstanding heat but most hardware grade epoxies will soften and creep under heat and stress.  Your motor will get significantly warmer than 140F .  Look up Devcon epoxy, they are an industrial company that make various versions for specific heavy duty applications and I think they have at least one for higher heat.