Running Rich

[thisandthat]

Hey

So changed my plugs and they're fairly black which reconfirmed my suspicions that I'm running rich.
The exhaust smells like gas as well.
So the carbs from the factory are set and glued in is my understanding. What can I do do fix the problem and the best way of going about setting them correctly. My air filter looks pretty clean, so I don't think that is the problem. I do have a dual side exhaust setup, which I'm assuming was a Yamaha after market thing, since its seems pretty common, so I would imagine that it has a similar back pressure as the original style of exhaust.


The type of exhaust I have is the same as below

[h2olawyer]

Your exhaust system is an aftermarket system made by MAC.  Normally, no rejetting is required for them.  You may have dirty carbs.

There are plugs over the idle adjustment screws - a 1980s anti-tampering rule from the EPA.  The plugs can be removed and the screws adjusted.  Nothing glued - the plugs are press fit.  however, with the MAC exhaust, I'd tend to believe the plugs are no longer in place.  Just a hunch.  The idle adjustment screws on an 82 are on the rider's left side of the bike, at the bottom of the carbs, just above the carb boots (manifolds).  They point horizontally.

First thing I'd try is removing the brass plugs over the main jets & spraying carb cleaner into them.  If the stuff comes out with any colors other than the cleaner or fuel, you should disassemble & fully clean (dip) the carbs in Berryman's Chem-tool.

Hope this helps.

H₂O

[Rick G]

Looks like a European bike , with that paint scheme . If the low speed plugs are still there , drill a 1/6 inch hole in the centre of the plug and screw a self tapping screw in, until it jams , then pull the screw out, removing the plug with it. Throw the plug as far as you can! Its going to be a lot easier to do the above it you remove the carbs , for the operation.

[thisandthat]

Sounds good I'll check that closer

Second question, whats the best carb kit I can get, does yamaha sell a kit or should I just order individual parts, I'd rather ride then spend a few days doing that, but if it comes down to it then I'll have to.

[h2olawyer]

There is only one carb kit available for the Vision.  They are located in Canada - Sirius Consolidated.  Get ready for some sticker shock - you will need 2 kits and maybe a fuel pump kit as well.  The 82 kits sell for $59 each!  They are not interchangeable with 83s.

http://www.siriusconinc.com/default.asp

H₂O

[Rick G]

As far as I'm concerned, Sirus conic can stuff them. We rebuilt many many Vision carbs with no kits. I've made float bowl gaskets and replaced the O ring on the float seat . Other than that  there's nothing you can't reuse. Just inspect every thing under magnification. I won't use the jets that come with the kits , there not accurate.
I never dip them longer that 15 /20 min. If there in the dip too long you will destroy the butterfly shaft seals and them you WILL be in a world of hurt!

[thisandthat]

Ok good to know, world of hurt, I'll try to avoid that.

With my exhaust I could conceivably shove a o2 sensor up the tail pipe and get a reading.
Other then that how do you make sure both carbs are running at the same ratio.
Is it possible that one runs rich one runs lean and the engine will respond sort of normal?

[QBS]

Engine will respond with vibration.

[thisandthat]

Hey I think I'm going to clean my carbs, do the old carb dip.
How far should I disassemble them before dipping? Just enough to get all the rubber pieces out?

After looking at this, its a bit overwhelming, I'm bound to put something in backwards or in the wrong order...
I could pay someone to do this I suppose but I hate to give up before I've started.

Also, I think it was Lucky had a instructions on how to tune each carb for mixture, based on throttle response idle etc. I found a post like that, but I don't think it was the one I was looking for. Can anyone direct me to them? Thanks

[Kiwi]

Do one carb at a time.  It is not as bad as it looks!

[Brian Moffet]

I'm going to agree with kiwi, take them apart one at a time.  It looks much worse on paper.  The area in blue you probably don't need to touch, so don't unless you know you need to (it's the accelerator pump, just pull it off and then when your carbs are clean put it back on)  Part 23, don't touch unless you need to, it's the fuel pump.  Again, pull it off and then put it back on.

[thisandthat]

Thanks guys.
Ok, well here it goes, expect questions to follow  ???

[akvision]

one step at a time, read the book, methodical, and clean, clean, clean.  a white towel work area helps keep thing clean and padded.
do watch out for lint.  Don't rush and one carb at a time.  A clean plastic container for small pieces.
The toughest part are the copper direct injection elbows.  There are some posts on dragging those out... sort of like pulling teeth.
best wishes

[Tiger]

 :) DO NOT try to remove the two plastic take offs that you have identified with Red & Black circle's...they are not a removable part!!! Infact, be careful not to break them off with rough handling... :o

                                  8).......TIGER....... 8)

[thisandthat]

Ok, thanks, keep the advice coming

That picture is one I took from a different post, they other person had highlighted those parts. Do you know where I can get the original? Perhaps in higher quality, thanks

[thisandthat]

Ok, so this is strange, took the first carb apart and the gasket looks brand new.
The fellow I bought this off of said it was sitting for 15 years he took it in for a tune up, then sold it to me.
Perhaps the tune up included a carb overhaul. If they did a carb rebuild perhaps I don't need to clean it just tune it...Although now that I've got them out of the bike I suppose I my as well, plus I can reuse these gaskets.

[YellowJacket!]

There was a carb update in 1983 where the front carbs of some bikes were modified to work withthe vacuum actuated flapper on the new air boxes.  That may be why the gasket looks clean.  A clean gasket is no problem its the clean carb that you're shooting for.  If it sat for more than a couple weeks with any amount of gas in the carb then it surely needs to be cleaned.

Agree with tiger.  DO NOT try to remove the white plastic overflow tubes that are circled in red and black.

David

[thisandthat]

Ok, but are they going to get eaten up by the solvent(small plastic tubes)? I suppose I can just keep that part out.
I can't seem to find Chem Dip, but I did find Tyme-1 from CRC, seems like the same stuff. It warns against agitating the parts while dipping, although it seems like everyone says thats the thing to do?
http://www.crc-canada.ca/Default.aspx?tabid=104
Does it seem like the same stuff to you?

[thisandthat]

Hey, so does this look ok, got everything off I need to?







http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs171.snc1/6408_238545900706_597610706_8476034_524523_n.jpg[/img]

[Kiwi]

looks good to me.  The only plastic/rubber i left on it was the carb over flow things.  I have dipped them about 5 times now (for about 30-45 min each time ) and they are still fine.
Did you get the jet that is in the bottom of the carb.  If you hold the float bowl upside down there is a screw on the bottom.  The jet is behind that screw.  It took a rather long and slim Flathead for me to get that out.
Check out your local dollar store for carb cleaner.  I found some at mine for $1 a can, and it's close to $5 for the same thing at a automotive place.

A can of carb dip, and plenty of patience and you should be set...

P.s.  Lesson learned... wear eye protection when using the carb cleaner... you don't know where it is going to shoot out of ! and it REALLY burns....

I would get the advice of a more seasoned member of the board before dipping them tho...
Good luck and make sure to keep the pieces to each carb separate