Air box removal

[Marios]

Hi Guys,
I just got a black 82 xz550. Bike has about 7,000 miles and it is in pretty spectacular shape but unfortunately it doesn't start.
After I hooked up a new battery, the starter turned the engine but after a few tries, the starter sort of froze. It makes a noise but doesn't turn. I wonder what the issue is there.

Then, I want to remove the carbs but I can't seem to be able to remove the airbox. I am removing the four Phillips screws and air fiber but I can't find how the other half is attached to the carbs.

Any help will be appreciated!!

Mario
San Diego

[nzvision]

mine has 2 large hose clamps around the top of the carbs holding it on.  loosen the 2 screws that hold it on and pull up.     good luck

[pinholenz]

Congratulations on your purchase. I hope that a "barn find" will come my way one day. Stick with it to work through the teething troubles and you will really enjoy this bike.

You need to use torch to see where the circlips are at the top of the carbs. A long Phillips head screw-driver is needed to  release them.

When you take the carbs out, I find it is easier to take the fuel pump/accelerator bracket off first. It makes it less bulky to wriggle out the side of the frame. The first time removal is a bit tricky, but once you have done it 3 or 4 times it becomes a doddle.

Welcome to the forum.

[Re-Vision]

Doddle? I learn more new words reading Kiwi posts than I do thumbing through the dictionary.      BDC

[Marios]

Thank you guys! I will start working on it today. I've never done a carb clean in my life but i am handy. I also bought the haynes book so the next question is: should i do the carb cleaning or should i have a mechanic do that? Is there a rebuild kit i need to buy?
FYI the bike has been sitting since 1994. Thoughts?

[Rikugun]

You need to use torch to see where the circlips are at the top of the carbs. A long Phillips head screw-driver is needed to  release them.

What is referred to as a "torch" in some parts of the globe is called a "flashlight" in San Diego.  :laugh: Open flames used around carbs would be bad but I'm sure you know that. :o  :)

Welcome to the site and congrats on the purchase.  :D I'm guessing you found the price to be very agreeable? Many are which makes this bike an attractive find - initially  :-\  Parts, time and (if needed) expensive repair shop fees often put an end to the low up front cost however. Not trying to be a bummer but you should know what you may be facing. Hopefully a few of the typical Vision fixes will have you up and riding soon.  :)

If you aren't familiar with bikes the Vision can require a very steep learning curve. There is plenty of help on the site so read and ask questions!  ;D Whether or not you clean the carbs or have it done is up to you but be forewarned - many shops today don't know how to work on a Vision.  :( 

[QBS]

Welcome!  Regarding your starter related issues, very strongly suggest that you do extensive research on this site for answers.  The starter motor and starter clutch probably have more posts here than any other topics.  FYI, it isn't necessary to disassemble the air box to remove it from the bike.

[Re-Vision]

Here's how to remove the carbs without removing any brackets:

When you take the carbs out, I find it is easier to take the fuel pump/accelerator bracket off first. It makes it less bulky to wriggle out the side of the frame. The first time removal is a bit tricky, but once you have done it 3 or 4 times it becomes a doddle.

Disconnect YICS hoses and remove YICS (.002 jpg), disconnect fuel,vacuum, and overflow hoses from carbs. Loosen and remove choke cable from left side, remove throttle cable from right side.

Loosen Phillips head screws securing clamps at top of front and rear intake manifolds that secure bottoms of carb throats to engine. (.007 jpg2)

Pull carbs straight up until they are free of rubber manifolds. (.003 jpg)
 
Free hoses on right side by opening frame clamps and pulling hoses away from carbs.

Free harness on left side by opening frame clamps and pulling harness away from frame.

Carb can now be maneuvered out of left side rather easily (At least on my bike). (.004 jpg)

BDC

[pinholenz]

I have made a start with a set of video tutorials for carb cleaning and overhaul. Have a look at

https://vimeo.com/71009440

The rebuild kits are relatively expensive. Compared to the value of the bike that is....  (BTW I believe a single Keyster kit MAY now include both the front and rear jets in the package - can anyone confirm?)

To start, you will probably want to get up and running and a very thorough clean will be needed as well as a thorough check to make sure everything is there in the right order. Replace worn bits and damaged "o" rings as a minimum, and if there is signs of damage/butchery, replace jets.

Later you may want to invest in a more thorough refurb to improve performance, deal with any vacuum leaks etc. At this point, just getting those parts you need may suffice.

"A doddle" for our American cousins, is akin to,  "A gentle walk in the park on a balmy day"

A torch is a light stick! What's wrong with that!!  Blimey!

[Re-Vision]

John, I liked your carb video. How about a video on Dottle,Knackered,Niggles,Gobsmacked,Faffing. I don't hear these words in my part of Texas.      BDC

[The Prophet of Doom]

Bobby,
Even some of the words you do hear mean different things...

A female visitor from the US has this to say... My first time in NZ I made the unfortunate mistake of listing off my hobbies to a family that had me over for tea.... among my hobbies "I like to root for the football team!"  one of the boys said, "What, the WHOLE team??"

[pinholenz]

Even our Australian mates get caught out. "Pass the Durex" means pass the sellotape in Aussie. In New Zealand it means pass the condom. Fancy using parcel tape as a condom? No thanks.

[Marios]

Should I start to teach you guys some Argetinean slang?!! Lol...
Born and raised in that part of the world until i moved to california 16 yrs ago.
I will remove the carbs tonight and go from there

[Rick G]

I always remove the fuel pump and bracket , save a lot of wiggling it around to get them out of the frame.

When i was a kid  we had a Rector in  our church , who was from Australia . He commented that if he said he was going to the outback in his shorts, Canadians got a whole different picture than Aussies did

[Marios]

I got the carbs out. Opened it up and there is this greenish gum underneath both set of floaters. I put some carb cleaner and left it overnight.
Used air and carb cleaner to clean parts. In the process of removing hoses some were very dry and broke. So the question is WHAT IS THE MOST COMPLETE REFURBISH CARB KIT OUT THERE? I want to replace hoses, jets, o-rings, filters, etc
Thanks!!
Mario

[QBS]

You probably haven't got there yet.  Never the less, approach float removal from a very well understood procedural perspective.  It is not intuitive.  If not done correctly, it is very easy to break the float mount pedestals, then you get to cry.  The Haynes manual explains the correct procedure.  Even so, disaster is still a very real possibility.

[Marios]

I push the pin out with a small screw driver and the float came out easily. Maybe I got lucky!!

[Rick G]

The only carb kit I know of  is Sirus conic I don't use carb kit ,as most are not worth much  I buy O rings from Mcmaster-carr   and make my own gaskets .

[Fuzzlewump]

In the process of removing hoses some were very dry and broke. So the question is WHAT IS THE MOST COMPLETE REFURBISH CARB KIT OUT THERE? I want to replace hoses, jets, o-rings, filters, etc
Thanks!!
Mario

Mario,

There is only one carb kit available for the 1982 Vision, and it exists because senior members of this forum persuaded a company to put one on the market several years ago. The kits are Keyster brand and I believe they can only be bought from Sirius Consolidated in Canada. You can find them on Ebay. The kits aren't perfect but they are a godsend for most of us, and this bike will teach you to work with less than perfect.  ;)

The kit runs $75 US right now, after shipping.

You can buy virtually all the carb parts you need individually, but it will be expensive and you have to do a little hunting. There is one part that can only be found in the Keyster kit, and that is the accelerator pump diaphragm. (If I'm wrong here, someone please correct me.)

The kit does not include hoses, you'll have to source those yourself. Be sure you get hoses meant for fuel, not just vacuum (easy mistake). I should also mention that the accelerator pump diaphragm is not an exact match to the OEM one, and this requires an adjustment of the rod that works the accelerator pump. You can search through the forums for details of that adjustment process.

There's also a fuel pump rebuild kit available from Keyster and it has everything you need for the job, the parts are great. I don't remember the price offhand.

The rebuild kits are relatively expensive. Compared to the value of the bike that is....  (BTW I believe a single Keyster kit MAY now include both the front and rear jets in the package - can anyone confirm?)

I just finished rebuilding my carbs again with the Keyster kit, and here's what it's got in it:

- Check ball and weight for under the accelerator pump nozzle

- 5 jets.... #60 pilot fuel jet, 122.5 main fuel jet, 127.5 main fuel jet, 130 pilot air jet, 135 pilot air jet

- 1 idle mixture screw, with tiny washer and tiny o-ring, but WITHOUT tiny spring

- 1 carb body gasket, very nice fit

- 1 float bowl drain screw with o-ring

- 1 accelerator pump diaphragm, with questionable spring

- 1 needle valve set with o-ring

- 2 crush washers for the plugs over the main fuel jets

Now that I'm posting this I'm wondering if I used the correct pump spring... :-\

[pinholenz]

Nice info Fuzzlewump,  Can I use it? That's the info I was looking for to add to my video

I am curious that the kit includes a #130 and #135 pilot air jet as a spare. Handy. Standard setup is the #130 Pilot air jet in both carbs. Thanks too for the confirmation that both size main jets are included in the kits. Cheers