Got out of class early today and decided to to a bit more work on YJ. Last week I replaced my stator/RR plug, mounted the RR on the rear frame just behind the battery and it is now running nice and cool. Voltmeter is showing a range between 14 and 15 volts while I'm riding. Also replaced the pos and neg battery cables with some custom made ones suplied by Tiger.
Today I did a few more things but one yeilded very surprising and good results. Not long after I got YJ I also bought a used TCI in case the one I had was bad. Somewhere along the line I put the ebay one on YJ and stuck the original one in a box and put it away in my workshop. Anyway, I cleaned up a bit and found the original TCI and decided to give it a try and WOW! YJ runs much better with the one that was originally on her.
SHe had a very slight miss - which I've mentioned in the past - and I could never really get her to sound like a steady thud thud - thud thud... Now she is quite regular but not only that, she starts up even easier than before. Probably has a lot to do with the other stuf I've done, but she's never started THIS easy.
Since I was on a roll, I also cleaned the contacts in my start button - again.
I also tightened up a few things and changed out the bolts on my backrest which now looks even better.
On the agenda for tomorrow is to tidy up some wiring and a temporary fix for my ailing fuse box. I've been looking for some replacements but haven't found anything good yet.
Maybe a good ride after that...
David
Radio Shack sells a 4 position fuse holder that, with a little careful soldering, dremiling & epoxy, can be made to reside in the stock location. you can even reuse the label & the lid fits...
(http://co112w.col112.mail.live.com/mail/GetAttachment.aspx?messageId=b18d2420-8d76-11e0-b999-00237de4144c&size=WN&tnail=0&ignoreerrors=True&n=1283097577)
(http://co112w.col112.mail.live.com/mail/GetAttachment.aspx?messageId=cd9e632a-8d76-11e0-b3cd-00237de46188&size=WN&tnail=0&ignoreerrors=True&n=330957647)
That's Penny's fender btw.. so clean!! :D :D
Time for new pegs and controls!!!
???
Quote from: Raj1988 on June 02, 2011, 08:33:00 PM
Time for new pegs and controls!!!
Yessir! Gotta get you some money BTW.
David
;D
FYI they are a sexy semi gloss black.. you will need to use the old rubber from your existing footpegs
Quote from: Raj1988 on June 03, 2011, 10:24:11 AM
;D
FYI they are a sexy semi gloss black.. you will need to use the old rubber from your existing footpegs
Sweet, and the rubber on my footpegs is actually pretty new. Got a NOS set about a year ago. Semigloss black will go great with my current color scheme.
David
last i checked you could still buy NEW rubbers ft & rear from Yamaha for about $12 ea..
Got out and went for a ride to go visit my friend Lucky today. It was nice getting out for a good ride...oh and seeing Lucky too. ;D
Most of my trips have been thte three miles back and forth to school so this was a good leg stretching run today.
Got about a mile from home and YJ started running rough at the traffic lights and I had to hold the revs a bit higher to keep her from puttering out. Wasn't leaking any gas out of the overflows so shouldn't be that and the digital temp gauge was showing around 198 degrees so it shouldn't be that either. My guess is probably another leaky YICS but I have a sealed spare that I can swap out and see if that fixes it.
Other than that, all went well except for a little front end wobble but Lucky gave me some good tips on that.
It was good seeing you again my friend! ;D
David
Any chance of photos re the re-location of the R&R? Summer temps here 30 - 40C, so re-location might be a good move for me. Thanks
Here's the picture of the RR mounted on the frame just forward of the passenger footpeg. The bracket was fabricated by ROV member Kevin and fits to one of the trim bolt holes.
(http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l299/xz550rj/ExternalRR.jpg)
Funny thing is I touched my RR after a 30+ mile ride the other day and it wasn't too hot...so much that I could keep my fingers on it. My dash mounted volt meter has been reading between 14 and 15 volts while I'm riding which is good. However, I also have my really bright running lights and usualy run my highbeam during the day too.
David
Found what I hope will be a perfect ATO/ATC fuse block for YJ. I ended up going with the 6-way block as the 8 way was a bit large. They also had a "heavy duty" one that at 2.5" high was cutting it a bit close for seat clearence unless I relocate it somewhere else.
Here's a picture and a link to the ebay auction:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350466781144&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT
David
let me know how this bad boy works out for you if you could. ive.been needing to do this swap for a while
Quote from: YellowJacket! on June 03, 2011, 05:53:00 PM
Got about a mile from home and YJ started running rough at the traffic lights and I had to hold the revs a bit higher to keep her from puttering out. Wasn't leaking any gas out of the overflows so shouldn't be that and the digital temp gauge was showing around 198 degrees so it shouldn't be that either. My guess is probably another leaky YICS but I have a sealed spare that I can swap out and see if that fixes it.
Rode to school again yesterday and on the way in YJ was fine but on the way home she was not very friendly with her bogging down and idle all over the place sitting at traffic lights. Nursed her home and the first thing I did was pull my YICS and sure enough it was leaking. Its the one I sealed up last year with the red RTV so I'll split it apart and reseal it. Since I have a spare, I'll just slap that one on and put the other in my saddle bag after I re-seal it.
I think I'm going to try something different this time though. I may drill right through both chambers and stich a bolt through each one, seal it off with rubber washers and see if that holds it tighter. My guess is that the constant expanding and shrinking is weakening the joints and thats why they start leaking. I'll post some pictures of it when I'm all done.
As far as the YICS debate goes, YJ runs better with it on. I've tried plugging the ports and tubes but she runs like crap and is much harder to start.
As for the fusebox, it should be here in the next couple days so I'll do it and the YICS this weekend. Too much schoolwork right now and final exams coming up.
Back to the shop.
David
Believe this is the same fusebox, installed it last year and have had no problems. Haven't done much riding though. BDC
the neat thing about blade fuses is, you can use "Smart Fuses" they have LED's in them that light up when the fuse blows, so there is no guessing which one has blown.
I have them in my minivan too because you have to hang upsidedown like a bat to see the fusebox..
Finished the fuse box today and was very surprized to find that the wires were pretty corroded and had to cut them back a bit. OK, I wasn't surprized... Anyway, I removed the old fusebox and added some female blade connectors and a couple jumpers to add a continuous hot and an extra switched circuit and all worked well after I was all done. Here's some pictures of the parts and the job. Next project up is to get my digital tach working right and fix my YICS.
(http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l299/xz550rj/DSCF0019-5.jpg)
(http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l299/xz550rj/DSCF0020-4.jpg)
(http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l299/xz550rj/DSCF0016-6.jpg)
(http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l299/xz550rj/DSCF0018-2.jpg)
(http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l299/xz550rj/DSCF0025-4.jpg)
(http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l299/xz550rj/DSCF0029-4.jpg)
(http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l299/xz550rj/DSCF0032-2.jpg)
David
Now that is more like it. I hope you fixed that bare wire end ground connection on the seat lock plate.
Quote from: vadasz1 on June 10, 2011, 06:42:18 PM
Now that is more like it. I hope you fixed that bare wire end ground connection on the seat lock plate.
Yeah, I got to the last wire and messed up my last female blade terminal. Had to run out and buy a new pack.
Interesting thing is now it seems like my lights are brighter.
David
not funny or coincidence...:) the older buss fuses aren't as efficient as the blade fuses....more continuity
Yeah, thats exactly what I was figuring.
David
What is that little tray forward of the fuse box? That is awesome and I may have to fabricate me something like that. Can you also post some pictures of your driving lights that you were talking about? I don't see them on your picture.
That came with the bike, and if I'm not mistaken thats the tray for the tools - which are not in the picture.
David
Nice neat job!
Re: noticing a brighter headlight...
Quotenot funny or coincidence... the older buss fuses aren't as efficient as the blade fuses....more continuity
Not to mention addresing all the corroded wires and connections which added resistance. When I did the conversion I noticed my volt meter read higher by a half volt or better.
Woooohoooo! I now have a working digital tach! Since I installed the Acewell digital gauge cluster, I've always had a problem with my tach reading wildly inaccurate. Never could get a reading and it would usually peg at 20k RPM. I had played around with how I connected the sensing wire by wrapping it around the front cyl spark plug wire, connecting it to the gray tach lead and the orange tach lead and never could get an accurate or stable read. Also changed the "spec" which could be set at o.5, 1.0. 2.0, 3.0 and that made no difference. I had posted on the acewell forums and a guy answered back about putting a 56k resistor inline on the sensing wire, which I finally did today and now it works great. The only wandering I have is now due to my leaky YICS which is about to be fixed.
Not sure if its due to the wiring and fuseblock replacement - or all the other things I've done in the last few weeks - but today, all I had to do was bump the start button and YJ started up just like my car!
I'm now thinking about getting an old wiring harness and using it as a template to build a brand new one. No time to do it now due to school but definitely something to put on the back burner and keep my restoration project going.
Got a bunch more studying to do and then going for a ride.
David
The little "tray" is original equipment. I use mine to store spare fuses and nuts and bolts. The tools are stored inside the tail light housing.
YJ sorry if i sounded like a downer with the not funny statement...didnt mean it like that..just read it again and said to mysf elf" that was kind of a d*** comment" :D
I liked your statement of "more continuity". It may not be technically correct but the implied meaning was clear. BDC
Quote from: Hartless on June 11, 2011, 05:01:13 PM
YJ sorry if i sounded like a downer with the not funny statement...didnt mean it like that..just read it again and said to mysf elf" that was kind of a d*** comment" :D
No prob. Didn't think there was anything wrong with what you said. ;D
David
Quote from: Re-Vision on June 11, 2011, 06:22:13 PM
I liked your statement of "more continuity". It may not be technically correct but the implied meaning was clear. BDC
haha thats funny because i re-typed that word a couple times because i knew it wasnt right , but i couldnt think of the word i wanted...maybe i wanted conductivity...basically better electricity flow :)
I don't know how you have gotten by so long with the stock fuse block. That's one of the first changes I make on the V's. Glad you like the rectifier mount, you had it quite a while.
Make him feel guilty kevin!!!! ;D ;D ;D
LOL. ;D
I have to have a reason to keep working on her. :angel:
David
Um, I still have the original fuse block. Works fine (for me).
Brian
Same here as Brian. However, there are secrets to obtaining longivity.
Me three, but I want to replace it :p
didja get the package?
Quote from: Raj1988 on June 17, 2011, 01:29:11 PM
didja get the package?
Nope, hadn't gotten here yet...anxiously awaiting. :o
David
To those with the original fuse block - it may be working fine but it's just a matter of time! ;) :o
I felt the same way...it's working, why mess with it? You can keep the fuses/holder clips clean and greased all you want but there's nothing you can do about the factory crimps at the fuse holders. There is almost guaranteed some amount of corrosion on those connections hidden under the wire's plastic insulation- all the factory connections for that matter. I'd think this to be true of most bikes of this vintage.
The corrosion may not be at a critical point but is certainly making life harder for all the associated parts including charging system components. My GPz burned a main fuse (the first in 28 years) on a ride last fall. I replaced it and made it home but noticed the fuse holder was quite warm. Turns out to be corrosion> resistance> heat>more resistance etc. in the wires near the (factory) crimped fuse clips. BTW, I had religiously kept those fuses clean and greased since new in '82. This spring I did the automotive blade style fuse mod and no problems since.
Soon after I did the Vision to avoid potentially getting stuck in the future. As I've stated in other posts, I noticed a system voltage increase suggesting that while everything seemed fine and was working, corrosion found in the wires during the changeover had been adding an unwanted load.
There is a major trick to mine still working and being okay: I am the original owner, the bike has spent all of its live in an enclosed garage, and there were only a few years that it was not being used much (but stored in an enclosed garage.)
When I rebuilt the bike, there was very little rust on the bike, under the battery compartment, and a couple of other obvious places. My bike never had to be "brought back" because it was never allowed to go there.
I do have another fuse holder, I haven't put it in. The connections on mine look pretty much new, because of the above "trick" :-)
Brian
My GPz was purchased new by me and garage kept as well. It has no rust or obvious corrosion either. The corrosion I'm talking about you'll never see until you do the mod and strip back the wires.
I'm glad yours is working well and hope it continues to. There are always exceptions and maybe yours is one of them. :)
Yellowjacket; thank you for the photo re location of the R/R. Finally decided to put it on the right hand
side re easier mounting plus extending the 3 white wires was easier than the others (but
A$10 for 1 meter of high temp cable was a bit rude I thought. Any tips on shining up the
engine without taking it out?
Quote from: cvincer on July 28, 2011, 02:26:07 AM
Yellowjacket; thank you for the photo re location of the R/R. Finally decided to put it on the right hand
side re easier mounting plus extending the 3 white wires was easier than the others (but
A$10 for 1 meter of high temp cable was a bit rude I thought. Any tips on shining up the
engine without taking it out?
i feel like the r/r mounted to the engine like that would make it hotter.... i mean i understand that the wind would be hitting it , but on the other hand that engine gets hot!!!
Your location better, but extending the 3 white wires was easier/cheaper for me than extending ALL wires. . Running around town, can hold my hand on it when I get home. Recent 100km ride (air temp 20 degrees C) & could keep my hand on it when I got home. No fairing must help. Gets hot when bogged in city traffic, but must still be better than OEM position. Would still like to know how to get a nice shiny engine without taking the engine out.
Quote from: cvincer on August 13, 2011, 11:15:09 PM
Your location better, but extending the 3 white wires was easier/cheaper for me than extending ALL wires. . Running around town, can hold my hand on it when I get home. Recent 100km ride (air temp 20 degrees C) & could keep my hand on it when I got home. No fairing must help. Gets hot when bogged in city traffic, but must still be better than OEM position. Would still like to know how to get a nice shiny engine without taking the engine out.
use a very fine steel wool and then mothers! elbow grease is key as well ;)
Quote from: Hartless on August 14, 2011, 01:17:28 AM
Quote from: cvincer on August 13, 2011, 11:15:09 PM
Your location better, but extending the 3 white wires was easier/cheaper for me than extending ALL wires. . Running around town, can hold my hand on it when I get home. Recent 100km ride (air temp 20 degrees C) & could keep my hand on it when I got home. No fairing must help. Gets hot when bogged in city traffic, but must still be better than OEM position. Would still like to know how to get a nice shiny engine without taking the engine out.
use a very fine steel wool and then mothers! elbow grease is key as well ;)
That and/or the "Mothers Ball" or "Mini Ball" that you can attach to the end of a drill extension. I also found that small wire brushes on the end of a dremel tool - or similar - work great too. Once you get it clean, polishing and shining it up is a lot easier.
I think after I graduate PA school in 2012 I'm going to do another teardown on YJ and repaint the frame as well as paint the swingarm black. At that time I'll also re-polish the engine and do it right. It still looks 1000% better than when I found her though... ;D
David
Are you going to consider a powder coating paint job? I'm thinking of getting one for a frame I have. BDC
Quote from: Re-Vision on August 14, 2011, 02:28:04 PM
Are you going to consider a powder coating paint job? I'm thinking of getting one for a frame I have. BDC
YEah, I might depending on how much it costs. At least after I graduate, I'll have some income again.
David
if you clearcoat the engine after you polish it, you wont have to polish it again. use spray clear laquer. Ace Hardware sells it.
eventually the laquer will yellow, but it's easier to strip it once every 5 (?) years than polish it twice or more a season...
Maintenance of shiny polished and coated surfaces is not one of my interests, so I would probably have them abrasive blasted. A simple look that never goes out of style. ;)
changed my R/r and rewind stator,and now am looking at your pfotos,why you have so many fuses in this place? =) can you tell me please,which is for what? because on my bike,i have only 2 fuses in here,one is from r/r positive,second,cant remember at the moment
I took a differant tach on case polishing. . If i go to the trouble of removing the damed stuff , I'm defiantly not going to put more back on! I stripped it off while the engine was assembled , using paint stripper, a small disposable brush and and a plastic pot scrubber. . After removing the stuff i polished the cases with a synthetic sheep's wool pad on an electric drill ( cover the tank, seat and mufflers and ware old clothes) I go over it once a year and its stayed great. I do a major clean up on any bike i ride any way.
Most Visions come with 5 Fuses. A 10 Amp fuse in the head light bucket is for the Fan, the next four are located under the seat and are 30 Amp Main Fuse, 10 Amp Head(light) Fuse, 10 Amp Signal Fuse, 10 Amp Ignition Fuse.
Quote from: Guerrero on October 12, 2013, 04:58:16 AM
changed my R/r and rewind stator,and now am looking at your pfotos,why you have so many fuses in this place? =) can you tell me please,which is for what? because on my bike,i have only 2 fuses in here,one is from r/r positive,second,cant remember at the moment
When most people replace their old Fuse Box with a modern fuse box, they select one with extra fuses (6) that they can use for anything they might want to add on. Radio, foglights, etc. BDC
well thats interesting that i have only 2 fuses there,and only 2 wires coming to there.=) who knows,who knows..