My New Vision

[Rick G]

Kojo , if you need parts I may be able to help,I have the best Vision parts supply in AZ. (I'm in Kingman) I asked the PO to direct the NO to the ROV site. If you want, PM me your phone number and when to call.

[Kojo]

Thanks, Rick, PM sent.

Also a bit of an update, still no idea where the camera is. Put on the front tire today, what a bear. My compressor keeps overheating (Thanks Havasu weather) and I cannot get the tubeless to seal in all locations. Gonna bring it to a shop and see if they can take care of it. Don't want to, but not much choice. As far as I can tell carbs are hooked up fine, gonna have to start it up to find out.

Priced powder coat/airbrushing. Got quotes on powdercoat for 50$ for the tank, can't get the plastics done though, gonna do those by hand, I guess. The airbrushers said 500-1200$ for a single color. WHAT?! The only problem with powder coat is the process is hot, and they sandblast down to bare metal. I don't know how far the rust damage is, if it has eaten quite a bit of the tank, they might punch through. Also, there is a spot that had been patched with bondo from when the bike tipped over, might get melted or stripped by powder coat, leaving me with a spot to repair and patch, then repaint to match.

I still need: Finish the tires, Paint the thing, right mirror, right turn signal, flasher, and "O" ring for cooling.

[Rick G]

If you  want to bring the tyres and wheels up here, I have no problem putting on tyres. I'll try to call again toorrow.

[Kojo]

Well, it is a bit of a road trip. Might be able to get up there today, might not, I'll call if I can.

[QBS]

Regarding getting the tires to seal:  An idea, assuming that the tire has been mounted on the rim and just needs to have its' beads set: Start by using a soap and water solution to lubricate the rim seal/tire bead area.  Next, wrap a length of rope around the center of the perimeter of the tire.  The rope should be long enough so that after it is wrapped around the tire, there is enough excess left over so that a 2' to 3' small diameter rod (think re- bar) can be used to twist the rope and thereby cause it to tighten around the tire.  Twist the rope until the center of the tires' perimeter is visually compressed inward.  Next, while holding the twisting rod in place, add compressed air to the rim.  If the bead has a place where it's not contacting the rim, while adding air move the tire back and forth across rim until the bead catches enough to make an initial seal.  If an initial seal is not being achieved, twist the rope some more until the bead catches.  Then, add enough air to seat to bead completely.  Then set the tires' pressure to the desired level.

Tip:  It will probably take 3 hands to complete this task, so plan accordingly.

[h2olawyer]

Good instructions, QBS!  You can also use a ratcheting type tie down instead of the rope.  Used that method many times when working at a tire shop in the late 70s / early 80s.  We also had a cool hose loop that would go around a tire and get filled with air to help seat the bead.

To move the tire laterally on the rim, I find it easiest to stand the tire upright, slowly roll it back & forth while tilting it slightly from side to side.  I haven't had any issues getting tires to seat on the Vision, though.

It may take a lot of pressure to get the bead to fully seat.  I've found it really helps to make sure the rim is clean as well.  You can find tire lube at some auto parts stores.  I get mine (Tire Snot brand) at a kart track.  I prefer it to soap, as soap can remain slick and then after a few years, becomes a glue.  Soap is OK, but for the first couple hundred miles, you need to be really extra careful with the throttle & brakes as the tire can spin on the rim.  The tire lube dries quickly and has less of a tendency to make the rubber stick to the rim like soap does.  (Just my $0.02)

H₂O

[Brian Moffet]

And no matter what method you use, take it easy on the cornering for about 50 miles or so.  You need the release compound on the tire (that gets the tire to release from the mold) to get removed...

Brian

[QBS]

Thanks H2.  The inflatable hoop is where I got the idea from.  Recently had an experience where the small tire (8") of a travel trailer in my care lost its' bead seal in the middle of nowhere.  Good news was that compressed air was available.  Bad news was that the tire wouldn't reseat.  I had an Epiphany, and with the help of a piece of rope that had traveled 200k miles and 14 years in our van and never been needed and a hammer handle, the tire was reseated on the rim.

[h2olawyer]

That's a great story.  The technique of squeezing the tire to seat the beads is not widely known outside the tire monkey industry.  Tried it on some race kart tires a couple years ago - no success.  The tires are just too wide .  We even tried the wide semi-type ratcheting tiedowns to spread the force & the tires just collapsed in the middle.  Kart tires are much softer construction (other than the amazingly stiff bead) than automotive or motorcycle tires, though.  Ended up using butane & flame to seat the beads on those tiny (4 inch) rims that are at least 6 inches wide.

H₂O

[YellowJacket!]

Din't someone post a youtube video about a guy using some WD-40 to ignite a tire and seal the bead?  Not the recommended method but a cool video to watch.  (I think it was on a big 4WD truck)

David

[Rick G]

I've used a ratcheting tiedown many time to seat beads . I've also used Gumout carb spray to "blow" them on to the rim . Just don't get too close , you could lose your eyebrows , mustache or eye sight , if you misscalculate.

[Kojo]

Well I got the tires on, they're in the back. Used the ratchet/belt idea along with a healthy compressor. Really I just need to patch the tank, get the O Ring, and I'm on the road. It won't look like much, but I'll be on the road.

[h2olawyer]

Oh yeah - too late for now - but when seating beads, it really helps to remove the valve core.  It allows more air volume through the valve stem & often does the trick if you aren't trying to compensate for a large bead / rim gap.

H₂O

[Tiger]

get the O Ring, and I'm on the road. It won't look like much, but I'll be on the road.

:) You can pick up the coolant tube "O" rings at your local hardware store...eg Home Depot...and for a fraction of the Yamaha dealer price :o...You need 4 ;)

At this stage, don't worry how she looks...cosmetics can be done in the off season period. Concentrate on getting her on-the-road... 8)

                              8).......TIGER....... 8)

[Kojo]

Dismantled the cooling pump. Opened that thing up, and even after removing the drain screw had a nasty surprise. One of the hose clamps is a bear to get off, the other went smooth as silk. Well, the back patio needed to be mopped anyways. Turns out I have all 4 O rings back there, they look in good shape, can't figure out why it was leaking. With the new tires on, this thing looks raring to go, but I need to get it roadworthy first.

[YellowJacket!]

You are almost a "Rider" of Vision!  :D

David

[funkamongus]

get used to that feeling of a light wallet.. It happens. I have 3 of my own, and another I care for, and its always something. I love it, and wouldnt trade it, though..

[Kojo]

Well, as it turns out one of the O Rings was a bit smaller than the others, allowing some movement of the pipe, which meant a squirt or gallon would escape when the pump kicks on. So, lesson learned here: Take not only the pipe, a correct O Ring to the auto/hardware store, but also take the casing the pipe fits into to be 100% sure it fits.

@YellowJacket Almost a rider! I thought the job would take me about a week or so, probably a bit more. I was correct. I still want a paint job, but...

@Funkamongus Eeps, light wallet. That's hard to get used to considering I'm a college student... Oh, wait... Darn.

@Brian M I think I'll take everything easy on this bike for the first 50 miles, as it will probably be kicking my butt for that duration. (Figuratively, of course. Though I've read some things about the rear suspension for the 82 models.)

Also, I noticed there is a spot on the engine where it looks like something missing, I'll take a picture of it soon enough. It might be a big thing, might not. Still want to check it before a rude surprise hits me a mile down the road.

Things that I need:
Replacement Flasher (Will an automobile flasher do fine?)
Right Mirror (Rick you have one I can buy off of you?)
Oil Change (Easy enough, dreading the slop)
New Cooling Fluid

Wants:
Paint (And how dearly I'd like that.. *cough* 1200$ *cough*)
New Rubber for the footpegs (Same as the mirror, Rick?)
New Right Turn Signal (Same as the Mirror/Footpegs?)

The list is shorter!! Hooray! And separating needs/wants helps quite a bit. Thanks for the help thus far, guys, been a good crowd!

[Rick G]

I have to go to Bullhead,  Sunday afternoon or the 1st of the week, I can bring you a mirror and a turn signal module . Common automotive ones aren't applicable, It's the turn signal delay that's the problem.

The '82  rear shock is quite adequate  for hi way use , it a pogo stick in twisty ,bumpy roads  though. Think Oatman road!

[YellowJacket!]

The turn signal delay/cutoff is actually part of the speedometer assembly.  I thought at forst it was just a light bulb but its a sensor that senses a point on the flywheel in the speedo.  If the flywheel/bike is moving, the signals will eventually cut off.  If you are sitting still at a traffic light and the flywheel in the speedo is not moving, the blinkers keep blinking.

It took me a while to figure it out why my blinkers kept blinking after I changed over to the electronic gauges.

David