Can anyone offer any help / tips on installing a clutch cable? Keep in mind I've never done this before. Anybody have any helpful diagrams or a how-to? I searched the board, but couldn't really find anything related... ???
Help?
Anyone?
Kinda' in a rut and this is a vital process to getting my bike started up, I think. :D
three things:
there is the adjustment knob on the clutch lever perch that needs to be loosened all the way and the slot that needs to line up with the cable so the cable can slide out....
there is a thin metal (safety) tab on the lever under the case that needs to be bent out.....
and you might have to wedge a screwdriver or wood block on the bottom lever to get some more slack....
that's a tough thing to explain....
routing is kinda tricky too... there is a loop on the frame by the radiator the cable is supposed to go through. I don't use it because I have 83 risers and an 82 cable...
you might have to reroute it a couple of times to figure the best route.... and that means taking one end off or both a coouple of times....
so you get more practice ;)
Ahhh, okay. I'll go toy with the routing more, but I see the little tab you're talking about... Is there a certain way the end of the cable snaps or slides into that little rectangle piece with the tab? This is a pain, mostly because there was no original clutch cable on there to see how it was all hooked up. Also, my spring loaded thing under the case is kinda' sticky and doesn't pull back very well on it's own.
Also, when I pull in the tab that is supposed to engage the clutch, there isn't a whole lot of travel, is that normal? Also, it doesn't seem as the clutch is engaging when I pull it out by hand because when I try to turn the back wheel, it's still in gear. ??? I'll try to get a video of it and maybe someone can look at it for me... ;D I'll be back in in a few.
yeah I realised after I posted you were only putting one on and not replacing...
Quote from: ithinkitsbroke on May 11, 2007, 02:13:05 PM
Is there a certain way the end of the cable snaps or slides into that little rectangle piece with the tab? the end of the cable that has the smaller if the two round thingys goes into the rect piece, the other end matches the hole in your clutch lever, I forgot to say that the bottom end goes though the cast hole in the case first
my spring loaded thing under the case is kinda' sticky and doesn't pull back very well on it's own. that's because I think your clutch pack is frozen up from non use. you might try stomping it into gear and rocking it back and forth a few times
Also, when I pull in the tab that is supposed to engage the clutch, there isn't a whole lot of travel, is that normal? not quite sure what you're saying Also, it doesn't seem as the clutch is engaging when I pull it out by hand because when I try to turn the back wheel, it's still in gear. ??? the rear wheel should only spin if you're in neutral or dis-engaging the clutch
finding neutral with out using the clutch is difficult...
I don't know if that helps any... ??? after 2:pm est my brain is full.... then I go home, flush it with a ride and then a few pops... ya gotta catch me early in the am or later in the pm :D
Actually, that does help, but I'm still having issues (Of course lol). I'm uploading a video right now and it should be done uploading by the time I finish this post... ;)
Anyways, when I pull out the bottom clutch cable connection-contraption thing, it should be as if I'm pulling on the clutch lever... And if that's right, I should be able to free spin the rear wheel, correct? When I do that, it's still acting like it's in gear and I can rock the tire back and forth, but it's still catching the gears. If I can get the clutch cable on correctly, I can at least figure out if it's really un-engaging or engaging, etc... I've tried 'working' the clutch as much as I possible could without a cable because I was pushing the bike around the back yard the other day trying to free anything up inside that might be hanging. And yeah, getting it into neutral is a pain in the ass! :o ;D Also, these bikes are 5 speeds, correct? I'm only counting three clicks when I play with the shifter, but maybe somethings not quite right since I don't have the clutch cable on yet...
Here's the video I mentioned previously:
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c206/sard0nic/MyXZ550/3rd_Day/th_clutch-cable-thing.jpg) (http://s28.photobucket.com/albums/c206/sard0nic/MyXZ550/3rd_Day/?action=view¤t=clutch-cable-thing.flv)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c206/sard0nic/MyXZ550/3rd_Day/XZ550-Day3-Pics002.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c206/sard0nic/MyXZ550/3rd_Day/XZ550-Day3-Pics003.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c206/sard0nic/MyXZ550/3rd_Day/XZ550-Day3-Pics006.jpg)
hmm I'd start with a good dousing of brake or engine cleaner!
yeah, I see that the lever is moving way too easy... the connector does swivel like that though.
they are five speeds, but again, rowing through the gear box without the bike moving is difficult..
were you pushing it while it was in gear? or neutral? pushing it around in neutral won't really do anything except get you tired!
is there oil in your engine?
Agreed with kwells. Much more pleasant to work on relatively clean parts.
NV is right about the gear selection while bike isn't moving. (as well as the remainder of his post)
Your clutch actuator moves much more freely than either of mine. I need to use a wrench as a lever between the engine case & the lever to move it. Can do it by hand, but it takes quite a bit of effort & digs into my hand.
My guess is that the clutch pack is frozen up or the clutch is misadjusted. Figure out the clutch cable routing & installation & get the cable installed. Then, you may need to push the bike around a bit to get the clutch freed up. Also, consult the Haynes manual, the shop manual or Lucky's CD (which contains these volumes) for clutch adjustment procedures to make sure it is properly adjusted.
H2O
I'm going to go see if I have either cleaner, but I think I used it all the other day.
As far as pushing it around, it was in gear when I did it, since everytime I found neutral and started t push it, it'd pop back into gear. So far, it's staying in neutral, but it's on the center stand - When I put weight back on the bike and go to push it, hopefully it doesn't start popping back into gear again. I also called my dad to see if he'd stop by for a bit and help me play. I'm starting to get a little bummed out / discouraged about the bike, especially since all I want it to do is start and run for a few seconds. Money's real tight - I mean REAL tight right now, my sewer decided to clog and back up this morning so I also need to work on that I don't have a good motorcycle battery that keeps a charge, nor do I have jumper cables to jump from my car battery to test the bike out - Just this damn car charger. >:( :-[ (Sorry for the rant.)
I'm going to go take the bike off the center stand and try to push it around a bit more and work through the gears to see if that will free anything up. I also gotta' check for more parts cleaner.
As for the manual, I'm waiting for Lucky's CD that's in the mail right now. :D
Well, I got the cable all installed and functioning! My dad stopped by and pointed out that I had the cable backwards. ??? ::) :D Oops. It made much more sense after I started turning the cable around.
Anyways, I got the clutch operating and it still seems to pop out of neutral quite a bit and I have a hard time finding neutral even when I'm wheeling it around a bit... Then I realized I only have 1 quart of oil in the bike. I'm assuming the clutch uses the same oil as the motor does? I filled it up the rest of the way and I might toy with it some more a bit later, but now I have a couple things to run out and do that are non-motorcycle related. :-\
Correct - the clutch & transmission share the oil with the engine. That's why using automotive oil in most motorcycles is highly discouraged. Glad you got things "turned around" and working. Stay patient!
H2O
Quote from: ithinkitsbroke on May 11, 2007, 05:45:39 PM
Then I realized I only have 1 quart of oil in the bike. I'm assuming the clutch uses the same oil as the motor does? I filled it up the rest of the way
???...Just how much oil ???
Total amount 3.4L, 3.6 U.S. quart's
or with-out an oil filter change 2.4L, 2.5 U.S. quart's... :)
8).......TIGER....... 8)
Even when oil levels are correct and the clutch cable is set up right and the planets are perfectly alligned, it can still be a bugger to find neutral. Oh, unless you are accelerating from a traffic light and you think you are is second and pop the clutch and see the rpm's go up but not the speedo. :o :o :o ;D
David
Quote from: DaveTN on May 11, 2007, 09:03:10 PM
Even when oil levels are correct and the clutch cable is set up right and the planets are perfectly alligned, it can still be a bugger to find neutral. Oh, unless you are accelerating from a traffic light and you think you are is second and pop the clutch and see the rpm's go up but not the speedo. :o :o :o ;D
David
Did that on the way home from the hockey game tonight. ::) Just love 3 - 5 MPH stop & go traffic . . .
H
2O
Quote from: h2olawyer on May 12, 2007, 12:50:56 AM
Quote from: DaveTN on May 11, 2007, 09:03:10 PM
Even when oil levels are correct and the clutch cable is set up right and the planets are perfectly alligned, it can still be a bugger to find neutral. Oh, unless you are accelerating from a traffic light and you think you are is second and pop the clutch and see the rpm's go up but not the speedo. :o :o :o ;D
David
Did that on the way home from the hockey game tonight. ::) Just love 3 - 5 MPH stop & go traffic . . .
H2O
In my cage i can just sense my clutch glazing...
thats why lane splitting was invented
as mentioned before, these clutches are usually trouble free (how many miles showing on the odo?)
i suspect once you have the engine run & a couple of quick oil changes in (use a detergent oil for the first time, run it for a week or so) & the clutch adjusted properly, it'll start behaving...
Quote from: ithinkitsbroke on May 11, 2007, 03:57:58 PM
I'm going to go see if I have either cleaner, but I think I used it all the other day.
Not to jump too far off topic, and I've had great success with a bucket of warm dawn dish soapy water and a brush that
was ::) ... used for dishes. Not quite as good as engine cleaner but also far far friendlier and cheaper.
-Rex
Quote from: Tiger on May 11, 2007, 06:50:04 PM
Quote from: ithinkitsbroke on May 11, 2007, 05:45:39 PM
Then I realized I only have 1 quart of oil in the bike. I'm assuming the clutch uses the same oil as the motor does? I filled it up the rest of the way
???...Just how much oil ???
Total amount 3.4L, 3.6 U.S. quart's or with-out an oil filter change 2.4L, 2.5 U.S. quart's... :)
8).......TIGER....... 8)
:D
I didn't mean literally filling it up the rest of the way, I just meant my remaining two quarts I had. The level's up to the top line on the side case oil window - I'm assuming that's the full level.
As a side note, my battery's toast. My dad offered me a fairly new (but old to him) battery from his Goldwing to use as a 'jumper' or 'test' battery so I'm going to try to swing by his house later to grab it so I can try starting her up again with the new plugs and a clutch cable, etc... :D
i hate to sound like i am a real pain to be friendly with, bu tyou need to clean that thing up some so you can see where you really are. a dirty oily bike will do things that can make yo urun in circles and chase your own tail. take an hour, some dawn dishwashing detergent and a bucket, along with a good scrub brush (round one is fine ) and clean it up, you may find things arent so bad after all.
once that is done, you can move on to running, shifting, charging problems with a much greater sense of being able to find the problems.
(the longer a vision sits, the harder it is to use the clutch) - fill it with correct amount of oil, get it to run, allow oil to clean up clutch basket, change oil , should be fine.
Up to the line is full for the case but probably not the whole system. If it hasn't run in a while, you proably have a quarts worth of channels that need to have oil in them.
Kia's point is good. I thought at first that I'd just try to get the bike running and not care about the aesthetics of it, but the further I got, the messier things got...because the parts had 12 years of crud on them. I stopped what I was doing and started cleaning things up. Whatever I took off, got cleaned. It's more work but it paid off in the long run plus it makes you feel better. ;D
One tip, I wrote notes about everything I did and kept a journal of it as well as a lot of pictures. I also made a list of things (with lots of spaces inbetween the lines) of what I had to do and needed to do and tried to follow that list as best I could. Of course my original intention was just to get the bike running but I eventually ended up with lots of organized parts boxes in my garage and a few more months time spent that I wanted to. ;D ;D It also sounds cool to say, "Dad, this is what we are going to do next....". ;D
David
I guess the big thing, which my dad also understood, is that I was just hoping to get it to fire a few times to get a sense of hope (because there's barely any there with a bike that looks like this) before I put 50+ hours into the bike to get it ready for the street. I understand that things will be easier to find, etc. with a clean motor. I just want reassurance that it's all going to be worth it in the end.
I'm going to go look for my scrub brush now so I can make some people happy. :D
if you just need to hear it breath fire for a few seconds, jump it to a car (not running) spray a shot or two of carb cleaner down the throats, keep your head from over the carbs & hit the start button. see what happens...
Quote from: Lucky on May 12, 2007, 04:47:36 PM
if you just need to hear it breath fire for a few seconds, jump it to a car (not running) spray a shot or two of carb cleaner down the throats, keep your head from over the carbs & hit the start button. see what happens...
That's what I've been trying to do the last few days, but I don't have jumper cables. :D I'm stopping by my dad's in an hour or two to grab a battery from him... That should get me to where I need to be.
Oh, I also just came in from emptying a can of brake parts cleaner on the entire engine... Cleaned off the heavy buildup pretty damn good - Time to get another can. ;D I'll scrub her up tomorrow when I get a little more time.
Oil capacity for The V engine with a filter change is 2.9 quarts. I personally don't get real concerned about over filling it .1 quarts when I do a filter/oil change on my '83. I just dump in 3 quarts and declare victory.
The first thing I do when begining to work on any of my car or MC projects is give them a very good bath with Gunk engine degreaser followed by soap and water. This is a no brainer when begining work on an old unknown MC. Working on clean things is much cleaner than working on filthy greasy things. It also gives one a sense of cheap and easy early project progress gratification .
Overfilling the V's oil isn't a big deal. I have noticed that it may leak out the clutch adjustment inspection access if way over full. Was happening on the Pumpkin when I got it. It also leaked a little at the stator / pickup coil wiring grommets. When I changed the oil & filter and made sure it was just to the top of the sight glass (top fill line), all the leaks went away. Have no idea how much over full it was, but it had over 3 quarts in it.
H2O
Well, I decided to practice what I preached a few posts above. After I posted it today (while at work hijacking a corporate wifi signal ;D ) I thought to myself... self, its been a while sinve YellowJacket! has had a good bath. Now don't get me wrong. Im a whimpy rider and don't even think about riding if theres even a chance of rain, so she stays pretty clean. But, dust and grim can accumulate, and did. So,I rolled her out into the driveway and lathered her up and scrubbed away with rags and brushes and, Man! does she look good! All the black plastic with the exception of the tires and seat got the satin plastic/rubber protectant. I got out the detail brushes and got into all the little nooks and crannies. And after about an hour and a half in the fading 78 degree East Tennessee sunshine, I stepped back and said Wow, she looks good.
The weather is supposed to be perfect tomorrow and I have to work, so it'll be another ride to work day and I'm looking forward to it. Maybe Vicki will do something crazy for her 40th birthday and finally go for a ride with me. :o
Hang in there ITIB, you are on the road to progress and it'll be very soon when you can steb back too and say Wow! Even better than that is the first tim eshe fires up and growls at you and I think you are getting pretty close.
David
I used to avoid riding in the rain, too. However, after last Summer, when it either rained or snowed on me on every ride over 100 miles I did, I am now less inclined to avoid it. It does make a mess of the bike, but it also helps make you a better rider & if you should get caught out in the rain, the fear factor is greatly diminished. Thanks to the riding I did llast Summer, I now know I can ride on slushy roads at a pretty good clip - even on fast sweepers. Figured out I could maintain speed limit or a little over (65) on the sweeping curves and the V didn't feel the least bit unstable. Those Super Venoms are great wet weather tires! Too bad they've been phased out. :'(
H2O
Quote from: h2olawyer on May 12, 2007, 09:39:51 PM
I used to avoid riding in the rain, too. However, after last Summer, when it either rained or snowed on me on every ride over 100 miles I did, I am now less inclined to avoid it. It does make a mess of the bike, but it also helps make you a better rider & if you should get caught out in the rain, the fear factor is greatly diminished. Thanks to the riding I did llast Summer, I now know I can ride on slushy roads at a pretty good clip - even on fast sweepers. Figured out I could maintain speed limit or a little over (65) on the sweeping curves and the V didn't feel the least bit unstable. Those Super Venoms are great wet weather tires! Too bad they've been phased out. :'(
H2O
You're right and I really do need to get out and ride in the rain. I have saved up enough to get a decent rain suit and now that I have the saddle bags, I have someplace to keep it.
I'm glad you have the same tires I have...makes me feel better about the handling. I did get a MC catalog last week that had tires in it. Inthe Avons, it had a set marked "NEW" that looked very muck like the tread pattern on the SV's. I was going to post about it and got distracted and forgot. I'll look for the catalog and post something and see what everyone thinks.
David
The new Avons are the Road Riders. All "V" rated. Avon claims they're still a grippy tire, but the construction has been updated. Tread looks like it mimics more modern radials. They are a whole lot less expensive than the Super Venoms, though. I'm planning on getting a set for the (current name) Pumpkin later this year. Have to wait for the funds to come back up after restoring that bike, putting the 83 fuel system on my Silver V and paying for the 25 year party.
If I don't get those, the Pirelli Sport Demons still look like a possibility as do the Metzeler Lasertecs (if I can get a straight answer on the rear tire sizes & availability).
The Super Venoms were amazing in 1/2 inch of slush. I started slowly & gradually increased speed until I was going as fast as I cared to go. Never felt a hint of a slide even at 65 in a 55 MPH rated corner. In the last two riding seasons, I've managed to get some good mileage in rain, sleet, hail, snow & slush. However, a vast majority of miles have been on nice, sunny, dry pavement. The trip down to Blackhawk a couple days ago, I had rain & wet roads. The thing that scares me most is the sand / pea gravel they spread during & after snowstorms. It takes a few weeks for that stuff to get clear of the pavement. There is still quite a bit of it in the foothill roads around here. It snowed up there last weekend & will likely see another snowstorm or two before June. At elevations over 10,000 ft. it can snow in any month of the year. The slush I rode in last year was in late August @ about 10,000 ~ 12,000 ft. The joys of riding in the Rockies!
H2O
Probably a good (better?) idea to run jumper cables from a non running car to your bike. The spare battery (although nice) will get burnt out pretty quickly, plus you wont be able to handily recharge it.
Once you get it cranking, take off the air box and filter, pour some (tiny amount, maybe an eye dropper full) of gas down the throat of either carb, dive behind your anti-vision-backfire bunker and hit the starter. If you've got any spark at all (and compression) she'll fire right up for about 5-10 seconds.
Quote from: inanecathode on May 12, 2007, 10:46:12 PM
Probably a good (better?) idea to run jumper cables from a non running car to your bike. The spare battery (although nice) will get burnt out pretty quickly, plus you wont be able to handily recharge it.
Once you get it cranking, take off the air box and filter, pour some (tiny amount, maybe an eye dropper full) of gas down the throat of either carb, dive behind your anti-vision-backfire bunker and hit the starter. If you've got any spark at all (and compression) she'll fire right up for about 5-10 seconds.
Well, I was thinking that, too. But I do have a nice car charger handy which is what I've been using to check the electrical things on the bike, but trying to start the bike over and over again with it is going to burn out a $100 battery charger and I don't really want to do that.
Quote from: Lucky on May 12, 2007, 04:47:36 PM
if you just need to hear it breath fire for a few seconds, jump it to a car (not running) spray a shot or two of carb cleaner down the throats, keep your head from over the carbs & hit the start button. see what happens...
I know what happens.... hope this isn't one of Tiger's quiz questions I'm giving away.....
.... it blows the bottom of your rusty pipes right onto the garage floor :P
or was that starter fluid?
Quote from: Night Vision on May 12, 2007, 11:14:18 PM
Quote from: Lucky on May 12, 2007, 04:47:36 PM
if you just need to hear it breath fire for a few seconds, jump it to a car (not running) spray a shot or two of carb cleaner down the throats, keep your head from over the carbs & hit the start button. see what happens...
I know what happens.... hope this isn't one of Tiger's quiz questions I'm giving away.....
.... it blows the bottom of your rusty pipes right onto the garage floor :P
or was that starter fluid?
Hahaha! That's probably what's going to happen to mine since my pipes are quite rusted. We'll find out... I'm going to go try this now... :D I'll take my cameralady/wife with me so she can get it recorded. lol
Bah, it was a no go. I have electrical issues that I need to work out. When the battery's connected something just doesn't seem right. I get occasional clicks from the TCI module or whatever it's called on the right side of the bike... I think there's a bad connection somewhere so when I get some money, I'm going to go get some wire and order up one of those aftermarket fuse blocks and trace wires and make sure everything has a good connection. I believe that was already suggested somewhere about that being one of the first things I should do, so I think it's that time. :)
Quote from: ithinkitsbroke on May 13, 2007, 06:15:58 PM
Bah, it was a no go. I have electrical issues that I need to work out. When the battery's connected something just doesn't seem right. I get occasional clicks from the TCI module or whatever it's called on the right side of the bike... I think there's a bad connection somewhere so when I get some money, I'm going to go get some wire and order up one of those aftermarket fuse blocks and trace wires and make sure everything has a good connection. I believe that was already suggested somewhere about that being one of the first things I should do, so I think it's that time. :)
Can you make a video of what happens when you try to start it? Do you have a DVOM?
the clicks you hear are coming from behind the TCI box. There are relays behind there for your starter and sidestand.
Have you taken the cables of the starter solenoid and cleaned them? the starter solenoid is a small can in a rubber cup on the side of the battery box . red and black cables. the red goes to battery, black cable is the long one that goes to starter. clean them all. clean the black cable that goes from the battery to frame too.
when you have the right side cover off and the TCI box swung away, you can see the relays... you should be able to hear them click when you pull in the clutch, swing the sidestand up and down, and also when you turn the ignition on or rock the kill switch...
if one doesn't click, pull the relay and clean the connection. one at a time, don't mix them up...
suspect all or any of your connections could be corroded and need to be cleaned...there's another heap of connectors in the headlight bucket too...
all it takes is time, and a can of WD-40....
get that fuse box up to snuff too!
these relays & the area they are in are not waterproof. often thy can be LOADED with crud. Bend back the tabs on the covers & clean them out with CRC electronic cleaner.
--Lucky
The Haynes manual has an excellent section about testing the relays.
so does Lucky's CD
David
Lucky's CD should be a required purchase for every Vision owner. Lots of great info. ;D
H2O
Quote from: h2olawyer on May 13, 2007, 10:34:20 PM
Lucky's CD should be a required purchase for every Vision owner. Lots of great info. ;D
H2O
Yeah, I'm still waiting on mine. Should be here any day now...
As for a video, this is what it's doing. Keep in mind that I now have the cable attached to the starter, it's not just hanging anymore... ;)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c206/sard0nic/MyXZ550/2nd_Day/th_start-solenoid.jpg) (http://s28.photobucket.com/albums/c206/sard0nic/MyXZ550/2nd_Day/?action=view¤t=start-solenoid.flv)
When I get the aftermarket fuse block, I'm going to go through all of the connections with some emory cloth and electrical grease and make sure everything's cleaned up and fitting tight.
Oh and as for the starter solenoid, I've already had that off and all the connections are good with it...
Somethings breaking the connection in your starting circuit. Either the starter, the cable (it isnt bolted to the starter? por que?), the starter selenoid, or you have a dead/weak battery (very possible, i'd start there)
Quote from: inanecathode on May 14, 2007, 11:32:06 AM
Somethings breaking the connection in your starting circuit. Either the starter, the cable (it isnt bolted to the starter? por que?), the starter selenoid, or you have a dead/weak battery (very possible, i'd start there)
Quote from: ithinkitsbroke on May 14, 2007, 07:44:20 AM
As for a video, this is what it's doing. Keep in mind that I now have the cable attached to the starter, it's not just hanging anymore... ;)
;)
Well, when I took that video, I was using a battery charger at 50amps to try to 'jump' the bike to get it to do something. I did have the starter spinning at one point, but that's all it was doing... Like, freewheeling or whatever you call it. Now it's back to doing this even when I tried it with a 'good' battery. But I do agree that it seems like something's breaking the connection somewhere... Which is why I said I'm going to go over all of the electrical stuff before I try to get her to fire.
Good job on the CD's. Once you get them, in the Haynes manual there is a great section about electrical troubleshooting. Particularly the relays.
Hang in there.
David
Quote from: ithinkitsbroke on May 14, 2007, 12:39:35 PM
Quote from: inanecathode on May 14, 2007, 11:32:06 AM
Somethings breaking the connection in your starting circuit. Either the starter, the cable (it isnt bolted to the starter? por que?), the starter selenoid, or you have a dead/weak battery (very possible, i'd start there)
Quote from: ithinkitsbroke on May 14, 2007, 07:44:20 AM
As for a video, this is what it's doing. Keep in mind that I now have the cable attached to the starter, it's not just hanging anymore... ;)
;)
Well, when I took that video, I was using a battery charger at 50amps to try to 'jump' the bike to get it to do something. I did have the starter spinning at one point, but that's all it was doing... Like, freewheeling or whatever you call it. Now it's back to doing this even when I tried it with a 'good' battery. But I do agree that it seems like something's breaking the connection somewhere... Which is why I said I'm going to go over all of the electrical stuff before I try to get her to fire.
Bike really should be jumped off of a car battery that's been in a recently running car (heh). I dont know of a battery charger that can put out the amperage an even cold car battery can. Especially if the clutch cams are all crapped up, and the rest of the wirings been sitting/neglected for god knows how long. You need a good clean high amperage power source to properly diagnose the electrics.
Quote from: inanecathode on May 14, 2007, 08:03:22 PM
Bike really should be jumped off of a car battery that's been in a recently running car (heh). I dont know of a battery charger that can put out the amperage an even cold car battery can. Especially if the clutch cams are all crapped up, and the rest of the wirings been sitting/neglected for god knows how long. You need a good clean high amperage power source to properly diagnose the electrics.
Yeah, I tried that as well this past weekend and it didn't make any obvious difference... Still got the crazy clicking from the starter solenoid. I'm going to busy this weekend getting the car closer to being ready for the car show coming up soon, but I'm going to try to get the wiring all situated and maybe a new battery so I can play with it a bit more during the week.
Try putting the negative cable on the battery, and touching the positive directly to the starter terminal. Should only spark a little.