Please clarify some items on doing the starter clutch bolts

[don_vanecek]

So, I got my side cover off last night-without as much trouble as another current post is having thank goodness-so now I'm ready to pull the flywheel/rotor.

So I see that there are three empty holes that I need bolts for to screw into the flywheel, are these these usually included with the puller? I will be borrowing a puller from my local transmission shop-helps to live in a small town! I'm not so sure I understand the center bolt, am I just using the flywheel bolt? I'm looking at the picture on page 73 of my Haynes manual. Reading Tigers post from January-I don't understand how anything would go fly if you have the bolt in?

The page from Dave's Ignition facts talks about needing three 8x1.25 MM hex bolts, are these the replacement bolts-as opposed to the puller bolts? His page talks about smacking the puller center bolt. Perhaps I'm just not quite understanding this with out seeing what the puller looks like-other then the one picture in the Haynes.
What about problems of holding the assembly to keep it from turning?

Happy to say I could see the ends of the original bolts just fine so I do not anticipate any damage, looks like this should be a slam dunk once I understand how the flywheel comes off.

Thanks!

[h2olawyer]

The bolts that come with the puller are often too short for this application.  They need to go through the puller & thread into the flywheel.  There is a large, threaded central shaft on the puller which contacts the end of the crankshaft - after the flywheel bolt is removed.  At that point, only friction & the woodruff key is holding the flywheel to the crankshaft.

You will need to see how the central puller shaft contacts the crankshaft - you don't want to damage the threads.

As you tighten the puller, there will be quite a bit of force on the flywheel.  That's when you smack the end of the puller with the BF Hammer.  The flywheel should pop off & you may have starter clutch rollers & springs drop out of it.  That's why you need to have a cardboard box under the flywheel - line the bottom of the box with rags.

I found that a pneumatic impact wrench on the flywheel works real well on the puller - you don't need the BFH & the flywheel doesn't pop off as violently.

H₂O

[MotorPlow]

Becareful not to damage the threads in the center of the crankshaft. When you pull the center bolt out, the center bolt on the puller sits on the ends of the crankshaft at the threading. Put a thick washer in there to help protect the threading.

[Night Vision]

two tips from me:

1) DO NOT thread the three attachment bolts on the flywheel puller too far in.. you'll bend the sheet metal on the back of the starter clutch.

2) I used a sacrificial bolt that is like the original flywheel bolt to set the threaded rod of the puller on. then there is little chance of messing up the threads in the end of the crank or the crank itself

[don_vanecek]

Thanks guys for the tips, now the question IS, is the information correct from Dave's Ign FAQs that the three bolts for the puller need to be seven (7) inches or longer????

If so I just about have to special order them (at a cost of $13.00) for this one time use! Looked at a harmonic puller from the local rent it shop and the bolts would only be talking about 80mm long (that would come with the puller),  just over three inches. I do now however understand the tool.

Also, how have you guys held all this from turning?

Thanks again!

[Night Vision]

I bought my puller at sears for about $20... I got longer hardened bolts because the ones that came with it were wimpy... I can measure the bolts I used when I get home... or

.......I could express mail my old ones and have them to you in three days if you want me to....

[don_vanecek]

Hey NV, that would be great, I have PM 'ed you.

Say, would you still post the size for others to read?

Thanks!

[Night Vision]

yep...
yep...

you're welcome

[Night Vision]

Don, I sent you another pm....

[Night Vision]

here's the setup and procedure I use for the flywheel puller...

(3) 8x100x1.25 grade 10.8 bolts for the puller.. the craftsman puller I use is about 1/2" thick. I don't use the "foot" or "point" that attaches to the end of the center rod... just the threaded rod... The bolt heads are small so I use a small washer and a larger washer between the bolt head and puller. 

wrap a piece of masking tape 5/16's of an inch from the end of the bolts that go into the "empty" holes in the flywheel (not the three holes that hold the starter clutch on, in case your's are sheered off) .. this will help make sure the puller is square to the flywheel and that you don't tighten the bolts in too far and bend the backing plate on the starter clutch.. finger tighten to the tape mark and you should feel refusal..

The treaded center rod of the puller goes on the end of the crank. It's important the the rod contacts the crank and not the flywheel... That's why I use a 10x25x1.25 sacrificial bolt and small washer that goes into the end of the crank. the bolt I have has a raised lip on the head which makes a little recess for the center rod. Save your original because the "big OEM" washer is chamfered and you don't want to bugger either of them up or the crank shaft when you start using the BFH.

It's critical that the flywheel puller is square to the flywheel and everything is centered... otherwise, when you start tightening the rod on the puller, it will walk off the crank bolt... if it starts to walk, start over

when everything looks like it's good to go... start tightening the threaded rod down.. tighten with a hand wrench until you can't anymore... whack the center rod with the BFH a couple of times... tighten/whack/tighten/whack.. keep checking to make sure you're square and not walking off the crank...T/W, T/W until the flywheel pops off and the starter clutch cams, and the springs with caps go all over the place or into the rags and box you were supposed to put under it.. don't lose the woodruff key either!

the stock starter clutch bolts are (3) 8x12x1.25 socket/allen heads... too bad I can't get 8x14x1.25...
.... so you might need to get 8x16x1.25... put a nut on the bolt, grind it down so it's about 2 mm longer than stock... cross cut the end with a dremel or hack saw so they are easier to peen over... remove nut, attach starter clutch with longer bolts and red loctite.. peen with a punch.... reassemble... yada yada yada...

caveate: a BFH is a 2 pounder or better.. never tried a 16oz framing hammer... but a 4 pounder works even better  ;D

edited to update starter clutch bolt sizes

 

[h2olawyer]

The BFH method works well - don't be afraid to give it a good, hard smack - just aim well.

I used pneumatic impact gun on the main puller shaft & the flywheel just kind of eased off - no flying parts & the flywheel even stayed on the end of the crankshaft.  That's why I recommend that method if you have access to those tools.  If not, BFH is a good, reliable alternative.

Just my $0.02

H₂O