evening, i just joined this evening.
I have just bought a XZ400 for my daily commute, only planning to keep it untill april may time before getting something bigger. What should i be looking out for? the starter clutch has been replaced recently, as has the starter motor. I notice the exhausts are on their way out, not quite sure how bad they are, but they've seen better days. Interchangeable with the 550 ones?
I'm 17, been riding for nearly 2 years. started on a fizzy, then a TZR125, then a CG125 and now the 400.
Cheers,
Greg
Hi Greg, welcome to the ROV forum!!!
Congrats on getting your XZ. A few members do have the 400, so hopefully someone will be able to answer your question about pipes from first hand experience. I wonder if we could simply do a parts number cross-check on Yamaha's website...
If it's not too much trouble, let us know where you live...
Cheers,
Louis
Not at all, Im on the south coast of England in not-so-sunny Bognor Regis
this is my bike, not really sure what's going on with the battleship grey haha. Any info on the model would be appreciated, i don't really know much about them.
(http://i15.ebayimg.com/02/i/000/c6/16/f934_1.JPG)
XzV2's site has information on the 400's... are you certain it's a 400? go to this site and check serial numbers and such
http://www.xz550.nl/
it is yes, or at least, it's registered as one.
thanks for the site 8)
Welcome to the forum. Hope you decide to stay for a bit longer than April or May!
Your exhaust system is an aftermarket system made by MAC.
The 400 is much less common than the XZ550 version, but they should both handle about the same. Over time, you may decide to keep it longer than your current plans. These bikes can be addictive.
H2O
Quote from: h2olawyer on December 08, 2007, 03:49:03 PM
The 400 is much less common than the XZ550 version, but they should both handle about the same
Is that a good or a bad thing? lol
I may well decide to keep it for a little while longer, but i really only want it for the experience. Got my eyes set on a TRX.
Rarity is neither a good nor bad thing in this case. Just saying it's a rarer model of an already uncommon bike. The only real difficulty may be in locating engine parts & the XZ400 badges. The 400 was never imported to North America, so our knowledge of it on this side of the pond is somewhat limited. I think one or two have been shipped onto this continent, but Yamaha never released it over here. XZv2's site should be very informative on the 400.
Given some time with the XZ, you may decide to keep it & get the TRX! ;D
H2O
you miss understood me sorry, didn't make that very clear! the Handling, it being like the 550, is that a good or a bad thing?
On the rare note, i love rare. It makes life so much more interesting 8)
The handling is not only a good thing, it's a great thing. Stock setup is good, (for a 25 year old bike) but with some minor additions like a fork brace & tapered roller steering bearings, these bikes are a blast to ride. Don't know about the 400, but the 550 has a very wide, usable torque curve. The 400 probably does as well, just a little less of it. I do know that the lower power of the 400 is probably not that noticeable because it has different gearing & a lighter flywheel. Where it may be most obvious is at the top end of the speedometer.
H2O
Gregs, congratulations with your 400. The 400 is easy to distinguish from the 550: the engine number (right side crankcase above the clutch) begins with 14X and also the frame number begins with 14X.
The 400 I saw in the UK, was a secondhand import from Japan, and had only the code 14X as engine number (see my website, topic XZ400).
In your picture I do not see a strap on the seat, does it have the perforated front discs? Does it have the red light in the tacho unit that is on above 80 kph?
Beautiful grey bike, enjoy it, keep it in fine shape.
XZv2
im pretty sure the seat is after market, very wide as well, makes the bike feel much taller than it is. I havn't actually ridden it yet, but im pretty certain it does have that light, the one above the jap writing?
what sort of power do these bikes make? Its a heavy old lump, weighs in at about 200 kilos i think - mostly down to the frame/shaft drive i imagine.
Also tank capacity, from what i have read, the tank just looks big, as it has a big tunnel with in it for the air box. It still must be pretty big, though.
thanks for all the information, keep it coming!
Gregs, the red light above the Japanese writing suggests that your XZ400 was sold new in Japan; probably the engine number is restricted to 14X (or 24R, if it is a XZ400D).
The 400 has 45 hp and a top speed of about 100 mph under favourable conditions at 10.000 revs in 5th gear, but 90-95 will be a more realistic figure in practice. The petrol tank holds 17 liters (a bit under 4 UK gallons), of which some 3 liters are reserve.
Charming tourer, could be very economical if you don't push it to the limit. Factory specifies 43 km pro litre = 120 miles pro UK gallon at a steady 60 kph = 37 mph. You can use regular grade lead-free petrol.
XZv2
The top speed would suggest to me that perhaps 5th is probably too long.Or perhaps that reading was taken at the crank, which is probably more likely.
I'll check the engine number when i get it, from what i know the bike was brought new in japan in '82 and imported to the UK in '91.
what do i need to look out for?
i'm impressed with the knowledge available on this forum, i think i will stick around
Gregs, the gear box of the 400 and 550 are similar, except fifth gear. That is closer to 4th gear in the 400 than in the 550: 4 and 5 are pretty close ratio in the 400. Accelerate in 4 up to 10.000 rpm, change to 5 and have still real power in stead of kind of an overdrive. I guess that's the idea behind this difference.
The 400 also has different primary gear wheels compared to the 550, it has the same end reduction and a slightly smaller rear tire, resulting in 9855 rpm @ 100 mph. The red line at the tachometer starts at 10.500 rpm.
The 45 hp are measured at the crankshaft.
What you have to look out for: the general XZ-things: see Lucky's XZ site (www.xz550.com) click on the Top 10 Vision problems and solutions.
XZv2
Nothing to major there, then, mostly just stuff that you would expect on an old, poorly maintained, bike. I'm hoping this bike will prove to be reliable. I'm planning to use it regularly and can't really afford the time and money spent fixing up bikes every other day. That's not to say i don't enjoy my maintenance, i just need a reliable bike.
inline fuel filters are a god send, ive got a spare one lying around somewhere!
Gregs, make your carbs absolutely immaculate inside and synchronize your carbs. If that's not perfect no xz runs well.
off-topic:
Also, and this is a message for all European XZ riders:
the German XZ club organizes an XZ meeting 15-17 August 2008 not too far from Holland, not too far from England. If you come there with your XZ400, you will have a real rare bike there.
I will be there and my son-in-law with our XZ's
see http://www.xz550.de/ topic XZ-treffen 2008
on-topic:
the XZ is a quality bike that can give faultless service even at an age of 25 years, but after neglect, it is important to see that the problem points are OK.
XZv2
carb synching is somthing i have never attempted to do, i think i have read it is difficult to get right on these bikes?
Thanks for the info on the meet, it's something i will bear in mind - depends how well i get on with the bike i suspect
Synchronizing XZ carbs is not difficult. You can make an inexpensive tool out of tubing & some ATF. Much simpler than doing 4 carb setups! Let us know when you're going to attempt the synch & we'll be happy to lead you through the steps.
First thing is to check the YICS for internal & external leaks. Details can be found here: www.xz550.com/YICS.html (http://www.xz550.com/YICS.html)
While you are getting the bike running properly, it is best to cap off the YICS ports on the heads. Either plug the existing hoses or find some caps that fit the ports. When you have it running well without the YICS, then you can add that system back into the mix. The YICS box is tricky and can lead to all kinds of odd symptoms. Best just to deactivate it until all electrical (caps, plugs, wires), fuel (carbs, filter) and air (filter, box) systems are operating at peak efficiency.
Get new spark plugs, caps & wires & replace them right away. It is amazing how much these simple & inexpensive parts can help when getting an older, neglected bike running reliably again.
H2O
Gregs, its like any old bike , someone has gotten a lot of the"good" out of it . Your going to to have to put the "good" back in. when you do it will be very reliable. Mine is and I ride on hiways that cross the Mojave desert , where cell phone service is spotty and civilization nonexsistant. Its never let me down!
having owned old bikes in far worse condition than mine, i think i should be able to cope ok!
I will do the carbs asap. That YICS box must have some decent chrome on it, its still mint after all these years. Shame the same can't be said more often!
I've just upgraded from my 400 to the 550, there is a real difference in power there, then my 400 might be getting a little tired. The 400 is great round town and short trips but I found it a little lacking for touring specially two up. I've just come back from a two week tour round the south Island of New Zealand, did 3600km (2200ml) on it loaded with two up and had a fantastic time, ran sweet the whole way, fork seals started leaking and have an oil leak bottom LHS crank case cover (probably where the cables come out). Not bad really since I only had the bike a week before we left, then I did spend the whole week, putting in my good stator, cleaning carbs etc to make sure all was well for the trip. I got a spare 550 with this one so I'm going to be selling my 400's (two road registered ones away, going to keep the spare ones) as I much prefer the power of the 550. The 400 is quite a heavy bike for it's size, everyone that sees it thinks it's a 600 or bigger.
Those mileage figures are interesting. I averaged 41mpg (UK gallon) or 15km/lt for you metric guys. Then we were averaging 100km/h (60mph). I'm heading round the North Island now for 2000km and hope to get better mileage with more aerodynamic luggage (we wont have it sticking so far out the sides).
sorry got off topic a bit. 400 is a great bike, little heavy I think for the power, still a lot of fun to ride though. Has same problems as the 550. Let me know if you have any specific questions on them, I have 4 sitting in my garage:-). Your 400 looks in great condition, wish mine looked as good.
impressive, that's a lotta miles on a 400 - two up as well!
Hopefully my insurance company will get back to me today, as the bike is not currently on their database. If i have to take out another policy on it, i will more than likely keep it for the year.
i will keep your offer of help in mind
They have just got back to me, and i have given them the bikes details, should be able to sort it out sooner rather than later then.
Quote from: gregs656 on December 10, 2007, 05:10:39 AM
impressive, that's a lotta miles on a 400 - two up as well!
Sorry I've confused you, that was on the 550 I just got (not the 400). I've done about 6000km over the year on the 400. I was going to do the South Island trip on the 400 but luckily managed to find the 550 in time, I think it would have been hard work on the 400 two up with all our gear.
Gotta agree with you on that one, i think you might have got bored.
I just insured the XZ, cost be 13 pounds to change my policy from the 125. that is f***ing impressive for my age, im very very impressed.
first impressions, what an easy bike to ride!
second impressions why the hell wont it start. damn.
i'll update this in about a half hour, i have to eat, one thing; the suspension, is it air?
update - right, picture this, i arrive home after my half hour ride from picking it up, it's bubbling away nicely and i'm dead pleased with my purchase, decide to ride over to a friend of mine who also rides bikes (we got into it at the same time) turn the bike around (they're heavy, aint they!) and set off, promptly stalling it, oops.
I notice for the first time that the oil (pressure i presume) light is on, but i suspect this is a passive safety device, it's on with the ignition so you know it's working. it switches off once the bike starts. start her up again, she's abit hesitant, but i put this down to me. Off i go again, down the road in 2nd gear at 3k revs, thinking how annoying this will be to the neighbours at 8am . . . o well.
Get maybe half a mile down the road, pull up at a junction and it dies, first thought was the battery, but it's turning over fine. I wonder if i may have flooded it, but i'm not sure. Walk it home (really really heavy aint it ha) get into the garage and decide to check it over, open the seat and there is a wire from the fuse box that has worked it's way free of it's crimp, replace that.
Put the battery on charge and notice the pet cock is on prime . . . can someone enlighten me as to what this means? switch it to 'on' but still no joy.
Personally, i wonder if the carbs are just a little bunged up it's been stood for a little while, long enough for the jets to gunk up abit anyway. Are the carbs on these easy to dismantle?
Thanks for reading, i may have rambled a touch there . .
Carb cleaning..NOT a shot of spray can carb cleaner but a full disassembly and dunking, is a mandatory must do for these bikes. If done properly, it is well worth the time and effort. Carb bung is a common occurence on V's that have sat for a long time.
Prime is a setting to fill the carb bowls with gas. It bypasses the vacuum valve that opens the petcock when it is set on run and the bike is running. Your normal petcock setting should be on run.
if your bike runs good for a bit then stalls, it may be as simple as the vent hole in the gas cap being plugged. Next time it happpens, loosen the gas cap and let some air in then prime the carbs. If the bike starts, you need to clean your gas cap.
David
so to start these bikes i need to be on prime?
i did like, half an hours ride at ~60mph with it on prime, seems like a long way for the wrong setting.
half choke, two twists of the throttle. That'll start it in any weather :)
Use Prime if the bike has been sitting a day or two since the last time it ran. Turn to Prime for 30 seconds, turn to Run & start the bike. Run requires vacuum for the petcock to let the fuel flow. Not a problem once the bike is running - unless your vacuum hose leaks or is disconnected.
I've run a ways with the petcock set to Prime. Not a big deal. However, if you park with it set to Prime, you may find a crankcase full of gasoline if your needle / seat don't fully seal.
H2O
i still think it's the carbs then, it's turning ovver fine and you can hear it wants to start but probably not getting enough juice.
I think i will take them out and clean them tonight, it will be obvious if that is the problem.
Hopefully it wont take too long and i'll be able to use it tomorrow
Clean these special carbs very thoroughly, Gregs. See the carb posts in this forum and see Lucky's site xz550.com: topic carb repair info, in that screen: carb cleaning). Best to dip the carbs.
The American riders use Berrymans , I use German stuff called WEMA (see my website topic WEMA carb cleaner). If they are 100% clean, add an in-line fuel filter, and synchronise the carbs.
In the RidersofVision website are instructions how to build your own tool.
However, I enjoy every time I use my synchronising tool I ordered years ago in the UK (see http://www.carbtune.com/index.html, use the tool for two-cylinder bikes). It is such a perfect tool, it works so nice and controllable, and, it gave such a big improvement in running, sweetness, starting, performance of every XZ engine. Highly recommended.
XZv2
:) gregs...Set the system to PRIME for 20/30 second's, reset to prime.
Pull the gas tank and air box off...Now, with the aid of a flash light, look into the carb's and give the throttle a couple of twists...There is a brass nozzle on the top of each carb...are you getting gas flow into the carb(s) from these two ???
NO...Pull and clean the carb's completely...Strip 'n dip.
YES...as DaveTN posted, it could be that you have a gas cap problem. The gas cap has a cork gasket that degrades after all these year's and plug's the air vent. strip and clean...or get another cap, like I did ;)
Let the forum know what happen's...
8).......TIGER....... 8)
ok, it runs. What it doesn't do is idle once warm.
Once warm, it will idle until i rev it let it go and it will just drop right down to 0 revs and stall. now, looking in my haynes im told there is no pilot adjustment on these bikes :o so what am i to do?
by the way, who ever suggested the half choke and twist the throttle twice you were right!
Gregs, only the US version of the XZ500 had the pilot screws capped off. Still below they are there.
Your 400 also has a pilot adjustment: see my website, topic: the pilot screw. The carbs of the 1982 Euro XZ550 and the XZ400 are the same, but the 400 has different jets.
Pilot Screw (PS) 3-1/2 +/- ½ turns out is the adjustment for the XZ400 (see my website, topic XZ400 for all 400 carb data).
Be careful when turning the srews in, only screw them in lightly, otherwise you may damage them, and from that point 3-4 full turns out.
XZv2
o that's good news.
Question is, is that the problem? it's easy enough to test, i suppose.
Quote from: gregs656 on December 13, 2007, 12:44:32 PM
Once warm, it will idle until i rev it let it go and it will just drop right down to 0 revs and stall......so what am i to do?
there is a thumb screw (near the end of the throttle cable) to set the idle speed. you may just have to screw it in to increse your idle speed
Quote from: inanecathode on December 13, 2007, 03:04:03 AM
half choke, two twists of the throttle. That'll start it in any weather :)
guess that makes two of you ;) ... every V seems to have it's own starting routine.... and, it may change throughout the seasons.... 1/2 choke x 2 twists = nada 4 me
Quote from: Night Vision on December 13, 2007, 06:24:07 PM
Quote from: gregs656 on December 13, 2007, 12:44:32 PM
Once warm, it will idle until i rev it let it go and it will just drop right down to 0 revs and stall......so what am i to do?
there is a thumb screw (near the end of the throttle cable) to set the idle speed. you may just have to screw it in to increse your idle speed
Quote from: inanecathode on December 13, 2007, 03:04:03 AM
half choke, two twists of the throttle. That'll start it in any weather :)
guess that makes two of you ;) ... every V seems to have it's own starting routine.... and, it may change throughout the seasons.... 1/2 choke x 2 twists = nada 4 me
Well if your idle jet is plugged the idle speed adjustment wont help, just make it run funky ie really slow return to idle (dieing of course)
I'd just pull em off and dip them anyway, doesnt take too long, plus you'll feel the better for it knowing your circuits are probably clean.
In cold weather, down to 38 deg. I use full choke and 1/4 throttle. In warm weather , when it hasn't been ridden in over a week I pump the throtle twice and 1/4 throttle and it fires right up . Hot ,1/4 throttle and it lights so fast it scares me!!!
Quote from: inanecathode on December 13, 2007, 07:40:54 PM
Well if your idle jet is plugged the idle speed adjustment wont help, just make it run funky ie really slow return to idle (dieing of course)
I'd just pull em off and dip them anyway, doesnt take too long, plus you'll feel the better for it knowing your circuits are probably clean.
I'm tempted, i will take a look tonight or at the weekend. It's a shame as it's running fine apart from this idle problem, picks up lovely and revs out. I will check the idle adjustment screws for the sake of checking them, if they've been messed with it will be obvious.
ah the age old idle circuit clog
Smallest hole clogs first :)
Find my post regarding in place carb cleaner soaking and do that first.