I saw this on another forum thought it would be a good idea.
So what did you do to your vision today?
I guess I should post first. I repainted the 83 risers and put a new sight glass in the MC.
I just received tapered head bearings in the mail from Pyramid yesterday, so I'm looking over the manuals and forum to get all my info together for front end cleanup and rebuild this weekend.
Also, I went outside and stared at her for a few minutes and daydreamed. Checked the cover to make sure she's staying dry. I woke up this morning to find an unexpected rain falling- nice surprise for this area!
There are some slight nicks on one of the tubes, and I remember reading somewhere about feathering those out with a soft pad. I'm gonna look for that post while it's on my mind.
Good to see the actual level in the mc for a change. Nice change out.
So far of late, I've given the Vees admiring glances on my way out to load the wood boiler. Staying toasty up here... though it would be nice to be down there wrenching in a much warmer garage or better... riding.
Rich
A few days ago, I removed my gauges to lube the speedo, changed oil (T6 ROTELLA K&N oil filter) and went for a 50 mile ride, warming up at a TACO TRUCK in Hickman, Ca.
Looked at it and wished for better riding weather.
David
sunburnedaz: What is it MC?
My XZ is in hibernation, so I charged battery. I'm going to make air fork caps, so I loosen the caps.
Short for master cylinder.
More work last night. I set the odometer on the new gauge set to match where the old gauge set left off. Then swapped gauge clusters with one that had not sun faded. Thanks again Night Vision for selling me those!!! They look so much better than the old unit.
Also re-installed the master cylinder with its new sight glass and flushed new fluid thought the lines.
Quote from: sunburnedaz on January 25, 2013, 11:28:15 AM
Short for master cylinder.
...Then swapped gauge clusters with one that had not sun faded. Thanks again Night Vision for selling me those!!! They look so much better than the old unit.
one of the many advantages of living where the sun don't shine ::)
I'm hoping we'll be allowed some latitude and not be confined to just "today"!? ;D
This past Sunday I took what will probably be my last ride of the '12/'13 riding season. It was an unusually nice day although a bit gusty at times. The sky was bright and quite sunny and warm. You can see the reflection of blue sky and high wispy clouds in what was once the perfectly smooth and shiny surface of my top trunk. I ended up riding about 115 miles although some of that was spent backtracking looking for the trunk that had fallen off in the first 28. :o ??? :(
As I weaved my way back through the zig zag course of back roads the trunk did not materialize and hope started to fade. The hard packed, bumpy, gravel covered Aunt Molly Road (hey, don't blame me for the name) was suspect but came up short. I began to make a mental accounting of what was in there and in need of replacement. Getting closer to my starting point I feared someone had happened upon it and taken it tempted by the possibilities of untold treasure within. ::)
Just about then I spotted it! There it was on the other side of the road, face up, closed and intact. It was sitting on the edge of a lawn just the other side of the roadside ditch. Amazing! It has some rash but is remarkably unscathed. Apparently it landed on the top, flipped over and spent most of it's time skidding on the bottom. I'm sure it came to rest on the road. There is no mud or grass stains indicating it bounced across the ditch and into this lawn. I'm convinced a good Samaritan stopped to move to off the road, hopped the ditch and placed it on the lawn right-side-up where it would easily be seen. I gathered it up and walked back to the bike feeling very gratefull. Looks like I won't have to replace that gear afterall. I may even reconsider my position on the kindness of strangers. ;) :D
Well it was'nt today, but about 3 weeks ago I rebuilt the front brake calipers and the master cylinder and treated it to some Ferodo brake pads.
The last time I messed with the brakes other than brake fluid was 20 years ago.
This week I took mine for a spin up to Helensville 50km north of Auckland. The first time when I could enjoy a ride with the battery charge indicator showing 13-14 volts. New (old stator) from a Suzuki and and finally a good second hand R/R, also from a Suzuki.
I was visiting a chap in his late 60's who was selling off some XZ parts. Scored a couple of decent looking coils and then started talking. Years ago he brought in a box of bits from the States for his own XZ so he was just clearing his workshop. He and his wife were so delighted to see another XZ on the road, he ended up giving me his other bits. I now have a Vision side panel. Cant be too many of those in New Zealand. He now rides a 82 XV750 that is being modded into a hardtail bobber with a stick shift. (Clutch lever of the stick) Hard case
One of the bikes in my youth (a couple of years ago) was a 1954 LE Velocette that had a shaft drive, water cooled twin and a hand shift. That and its buddy, a BSA Bantam 125cc were my first bikes. Don't I wish I still had them!
Today I am off to adjust the accelerator pump linkage to try to cure the gagging that occurs when I open up the throttle in a hurry
Tweaked and fitted a bellypan, "adjusted" and fitted a battery box for under the bike and inside the bellypan.......... ;D
Well, I shoveled two feet of snow to get to the shed which of course is 150 feet away from its summer home in the garage. Since all the body work is at the painter still, I put new fuel filters in, a rebuilt starter, thank you night vision,,charged the battery, and at this time (on coffee break now) am polishing the pipes.
Too much yard work for riding today, but I swept up the leaves and generally tidied up the motorcycle parking area. Noted that the trickle charger green light is still on, and no significant oil drips.
Treedragon, sounds like you are putting weight below to get a very low center of gravity. That should help high speed handling stability some.
Have you thought of welding up a new frame to maximize on all the possible refinements and improvements?
That about sums it up. ;D
I was hoping to get the battery at the front of the bellypan to help with a front weight bias but there is not quite enough room to do it gracefully. Instead it gets to sit just in front of the rear tire, sorta close to the rear exhaust :o and around 4 inches from the road yet hidden by the new bellypan.
I'm going to remove what is left of the rear subframe as it isn't needed anymore and likely trim the lightweight rear fairing I'm currently running, it's from a 900SS as I see an opportunity to fiddle a bit more ;D ;D
As for a new frame....... nothing wrong with this one I'm a thinking and a new one might stop me fiddling a bit............
Treedragon, I am in awe.....
I discovered tonight that I can replace the acell pump spring without pulling the carbs. Replaced my existing spring with one from a Biro as per the suggestion of another member - actually, I think it is a lot stronger than the original. Fiddly job -I used cotton thread tied through the spring to compress it while I reinstalled that impossibly tiny split pin. Then cut the thread. Will take it for a run tomorrow to see if the throttle bog has improved.
Unless the spring is weaker than the OEM I'm guessing you'll get more of an initial squirt (or the same) as the factory setup. Wouldn't the spring need to be weaker than the combined resistance of the return spring and the accell pump action to provide less fuel?
Honestly I can't imagine the stumble is caused by too much accell pump fuel unless there is an underlying over-rich condition to begin with. All things being equal and assuming sound top end, no vaccum leaks and clean properly adjusted carbs, often the V stumble is helped by adding preload to the spring. Yes? No?
I think it will be the length of the travel rather than the strength of the spring that matters
The length of the travel would be shortened by the weaker than stock spring I described. Initially there would be little pump rod movement meaning less fuel released. As the spring preload increased rod movement would begin to match throttle linkage movement. That is if the spring was adequately strong to overcome the forces involved.
The same thing could be accomplished with the stock spring by backing off the adjustment. Initial throttle linkage movement would yield no rod movement until the spring accumulated preload. That's my theory anyway! :D
Today I re-soldered a number of dry joints in My TCI unit because it was seriously out of whack in that it would drop a cylinder or half and do some mind blowing backfires with increasing reliability :o :o ;D ;D ;D
As a backstop for the weekend ride I slotted another unit in the steed and suitably caned it with the Ducati boys for 500k 0r so 8) and this turned out to offer useful info.
Now there was a difference between the two TCI units............ The one I repaired, ie my usual unit, is out of an XZ400 replacing the original that blew a few years ago prior to my getting into some in depth fiddling and not leaving well enough alone........... My temporary replacement for the weekend ride was a regular XZ550 unit and although it performed admirably it seemed to lack the pizzaz of the XZ400 unit, sort of proving what I had been told about the 400 having a better advance curve, (well at least in my mind anyway). I had never got around to checking the two one after the other.
Of course the other aspect possibly worth mentioning from the ride is "Did I notice any difference in handling with having the battery a few inches above ground level?", (recent modification)........... well yes I did actually and most noticeable on the tight, flick, flick, sort of corners............ like the first tight roundabout out of town and then I got lazy and started grinding the exhaust going over the Hope Saddle, sort of flick crunch oops, or maybe I am just getting too old to slide off the side quick enough...... ahem :o No never!! At least the new bellypan escaped unscathed.
Enough for now
I run a 400 unit also. The curves are different, but only slightly.
See comparison here...
http://ridersofvision.net/rovforum/index.php?topic=14474.msg131843#msg131843 (http://ridersofvision.net/rovforum/index.php?topic=14474.msg131843#msg131843)
I made two separate check lists for what needs to be done to both of my Visions. I did this while sitting in my car on a break from work. I also moved the parts from my "Mystery Vision" into my basement for the removal-of-green-paint process I'm about to go through. The PO HAND painted many of the parts a "Joker Green". Judging from chips in the green paint, I can see that the original paint was metallic grey, which looked to be nice. Too bad it's ruined and now I have to sand the hell out of it.
Tiger said something to me this past weekend that I'll never forget: "Someone took the love out of it. You have to put the love back into it." Words to live by in the Vision world.
That sounds like something Tiger would say...nicely put! :)
I am starting to put in some decent miles on the bike now and growing in confidence with its handling and quirks. The off throttle stumble is still a serious problem and changing the spring and adjusting the accelerator pump rod length from one extreme to the other by increments has not got rid of it.
I'll next adjust the volume being delivered by the pump as Roro has suggested. I had it set up to deliver the specified volume but, all other things being equal, this may be too much or too little.
Rich bog or lean bog - how can you tell?
Glad to hear you are getting some nice rides in. Funny how confidence makes the experience so much better! ;)
You might try the enrichener (choke) to aid in your diagnosis. Apply some choke and if the problem gets better it's lean, if it gets worse it's rich. This test isn't always conclusive but costs nothing to try. :) Having said that you need to ensure the engine is up to factory specs before trying to "jet" the problem away. BTW, how do you plan on changing the pump volume?
Is the valve lash within spec? Is compression good? Do you have vaccum leaks? Is an adequate supply of clean fuel being supplied to the carbs? Are the carbs meticulously clean? Are they tuned properly i.e. float height, idle mixture, synced? Jet sizes correct? Accell nozzles spraying correctly? YICS uncompromised? Air box flapper working properly? Clean air filter? Wires/caps/plugs up to snuff?
Until theses things are sorted the bog may remain and sorting these things often takes care of the bog. :)
Today I cut off the rear sub frame at about the mid seat point. I figured it would be easier to visualize the changes to come without having excess steel in the way............
and just in case anyone is wondering, several years ago, (already?? :o I cut out the support from the rear footpeg area and moved it forward and have been meaning to lighten things for some time now. Today there was a part-off saw handy and it is a single seater after all....... ;D
That just leaves: putting in a new seat support, re-modelling the seat/tailpiece and tail light, and putting in an easy to access "electrical area" for TCI,fuses, flasher units etc.
Am also pondering on an oil cooler down in the bellypan, there is bound to be something floating around the place that will fit.
After a few weeks waiting on parts to arrive, I can now add to this thread, which has turned out to be one of my favorites to follow.
I like the idea of Visionaries all around the globe working on their machines independently yet simultaneously, lost in their own worlds but connected in this one. This particular thread strikes me as a kind of microcosm of that reality....snapshot evidence of each different person working away a little at a time. I dunno, when I'm working on mine I'm definitely off in my own world.
Today I put new fork and dust seals (and retaining clips) on the forks, and did the upgrade to tapered steering bearings. Old fork oil was a nasty maple syrup color, with the consistency of the liquid part of puke (that's what it reminded me of, anyway). Kinda chunky. There was probably less than two ounces in each fork, which would explain in part at least why the forks had virtually no compression. Everything cleaned up nicely, though.
Steering stem bearings were not as tricky to deal with as I had thought they would be, thanks of course to this community. I was kind of shocked to see that the old bearings were really worn out, something I couldn't feel by rotation until after removing the headlight and instrument box. Glad I made the decision to do the upgrade, I had almost put it off!
Everything's tight and clean, looks nice and feels nicer. Nine hours spent on it today, and it feels great just having done the work. It's crazy how easy it is to question ourselves sometimes. I read up on certain tasks with this bike and begin to feel a bit intimidated at the prospect, but once I've finished it I realise that it was actually a piece of cake, well within my capabilities. Still a lot of work left on the V, but I can see myself getting closer to riding condition now, the light's showing up at the end of the tunnel. Great day, man...great day.
Nice entry Fuzzlewump! ;D Really like your reference to the global Vision community unified by this forum and the simultaneous resurrection, repair, maintenance, and love bestowed upon this our obsession of choice. ;)
Nice to hear of the upgrades and nice ones they are. It makes perfect sense to do the neck bearings together with the forks too.
QuoteNine hours spent on it today, and it feels great just having done the work
Amen brother, amen. :D
Having changed the spring and the accelerator rod adjustment with only marginal effect, today I thought I would have a go at the "enrichen test" suggested by Rikugun to deal with the bog. (BTW I had carefully measured the volume being squirted into each carb by adjusting the stop that limits the travel of the pump diaphragm.)
Started the bike with the pony tank on just to check again that the flapper was working OK and noticed no charge on the voltmeter. This was a wee distraction..... Having enjoyed 1000kms of trouble free, (boggy!) riding I was starting to feel some affectionate reliability. Another blown (second hand) rectifier.!! Stator checked out OK, AC 5OV+ from all three pairs of wires. Rectifier blew in the open state so battery wasn't cooked.. Count your blessings.
Next R/R is going to be a Mosfet sourced today from a 2009 CBR600RR on Trademe, our local auction listing.
One step at a time.....
R/r will only support a high current draw for a short time. How fresh is your battery? Have you measured resistance of your wiring?
If either are faulty your new MOSFET will go splat just as fast.
Nope, haven't tested resistance in the loom, only around the spark circuit/coils. Battery is 5 years old, very unused and holds a charge well.
I am a Vision newbie AND this is the first multimeter I have ever owned in my life. (I love the excuse to get new gadgets. It has auto-ranging!- How sexy is that, or not?)
So, here's me guessing what to do. Please chip in and correct me. I think I am trying to measure the total resistance of a series circuit except in those areas where it gets interrupted by TCI units and solenoids.
1. Disconnect battery
2. Set meter to Ohms and clip alligator probes on to the disconnected battery leads. A reading of 0.00 or there-abouts means that there is a short in the circuit. (minimum resistance - same as touching the two probes together) Turn the ignition on and take the base reading with only ignition load on the circuit.
3. Press starter button and measure load
4. Turn lights on and off, measure load
5. Turn high beam on and off, measure load
6. Turn left and right indicator on and off ,measure loads
7. Push horn button and measure load
8. Pull handbrake on, measure load, then off.
9. Push footbrake on measure load, then off.
10. Continue for all other electrical devices attached to bike, not forgetting the fan. (Short out the fan switch to turn "on").
Am I on the right track here?
Next, look for any unusually LOW resistance which might indicate a device on the circuit that is drawing unusually high current causing a drain on the battery and overworking the R/R.
What sort of figures are "normal". ( When I measure the resistance across two terminals of a household lamp its 35 Ohms, same for a couple of other devices such as a hot air gun when its switched to the on position.)
Back 4 or 5 decades when I was in school, Voltage = Current x Resistance.
Therefore if my circuit voltage = 14volts and my measured resistance is 50 ohms, then the current draw for that device would be 0.28 amps. But if the resistance was just 0.5 ohms then the circuit would draw 28 amps and I should be popping fuses and burning out my R/R. Right?
Hope you don't mind me thinking out loud, but by my reckoning I should be hoping for resistances of say, 2 Ohms and above around my wiring circuit? Going down to maybe, 1 Ohm on the starter circuit when the start button is pushed?
Thanks.
Are you just trying to diagnose why it's not charging? If so, you are over thinking the problem. :D It may be an interesting experiment to map circuit resistance but unless you are blowing fuses or a particular circuit isn't working, you may be on a wild goose chase. All the circuits will have some resistance depending on the condition of the wires, connections, switchgear, quantity/wattage bulbs, etc.,etc., but there is no published data (that I'm aware of) on what these values should be. You'd then be relying on skill and knowledge that by your own admission you lack. The meter is a great tool but don't let it get you in trouble! :)
Health of the battery can not be determined by a voltage check alone. For lead acid batteries a hydrometer and volts would be much more accurate. You may get 12.5vdc (nominal sitting overhight post charging) but have one or more weak cells that under load will not deliver the goods. It's just a "surface" charge. Five years is pushing it but not impossible. If you get 14 or so across the battery just off idle, charging is OK but it doesn't mean the battery is necessarily healthy. My GPz battery is 6 years old and measures 12.5 when charged but takes longer to get there and loses it quicker than when new. The hydrometer shows all 6 cells to be "fair". This will work for that bike as it spins over easily and starts within a revolution or two. That condition battery in a Vision however would be very limited as many singles and twins place high demands on starting systems.
Am I on the right track here?
No.
Your steps #1 through 10 will not likely tell you much. Rather than looking for a low resistance on a circuit that can't be activated, try measuring current where a fuse would normally be and see if any DC current readings are approaching fuse limits. Excessive current in any particular circuit will leave you with a much smaller area to troubleshoot rather than all electric circuits combined. Resistance measurements are usually made when isolating suspected components without power being applied. BDC
Re-Vision makes a great point that amp reading on individual circuits would be valuable especially if you are blowing fuses. If you are trying to determine why the R/R expired - good luck! There are many theories and little consensus. On bikes this old the fuse box is a likely candidate for resistance. You can isolate it and check resistance but I'd recommend replacing it if you haven't allready. There are many references on the forum to guide you as it is a popular upgrade. I'm not claiming it killed your R/R but the electrical system will thank you. Every circuit will likely realize a net gain in voltage. ;)
Since you are getting 50vac stator output I'll assume you performed static ohm tests (open, shorted, resistance value) and it passed. :D You also determined the R/R is no good so you'll be getting another. I'd suggest connecting it's positive and ground leads directly to the battery posts. Another thing to check/clean is the main battery ground to the engine and the harness eyelet ground under the left(?) coil mount.
Thanks Rikugun. Charging was just fine until I blew another R/R after 1000 kms. Engine starts after battery has been standing for a week within 3 seconds of turning over the starter. I have cleaned the earths at the coils, but not the main earth connection- where is that? I will buy an hydrometer and work through the testing guidelines I found here:
http://www.batterystuff.com/kb/articles/battery-articles/battery-basics.html#6
As Roro suggested, I am trying to check if there is a component on the circuit which is drawing an inordinate current before I put a new MOSFET R/R in and blow that as well by overtaxing it. No fuses are blowing, and I haven't upgraded the fuse box yet. I don't think this is an issue for my R/R, but it is on my "to do" list in the winter.
Re-Vision, to test the current (amperage) at the fuse am I right in assuming that I should put in the new R/R, have the bike running at say, 4K rpm and measure the current between a fuse connection and the bike frame?.
Thanks for your collective wisdom.
Replace the fuse box before you proceed , It's mandatory on all old bikes , especially Yamahas . With the bike running at 2000 to 2500 rpm check the voltage at the battery . It should be around 13.5 VDC or slightly more . 12.5 wont do it. The RR may have blown because ! You may never know why. The voltage straight out of the stator (three while wires , Suzuki is yellow ) should be 55 volts VAC, give or take .Take readings on any two wires , until you have measured all three.
Rick, where do you get 12.5 volts running ("12.5 wont do it") from?
pinhole - re the main earth, follow the battery ground cable down to the engine. I'm not sure what test Roro is talking about so I'll let him address that but if you are concerned with excess draw, the fuse box is absolutely a potential candidate. Even if the fuse clips look sound all the wire connections are crimped from the factory and nearly guaranted to be less than optimal causing increased draw. I would really encourage you to take that project on before going any further.
QuoteRe-Vision, to test the current (amperage) at the fuse am I right in assuming that I should put in the new R/R, have the bike running at say, 4K rpm and measure the current between a fuse connection and the bike frame?.
I'm unclear as to what you're trying to test here so again I'll let Roro answer but.... Keep in mind any amp test will be done in series and the gage has to be able to handle the expected draw (plus safety margin) of the circuit being tested. Also, many inexpensive gages only tolerate 10 amps which is insufficient. Some are also sensitive to polarity.
Connect Ammeter between two fuse connections of whatever fuse you have removed, make sure your meter can handle what ever current your fuse is handling. If you connect one lead from fuse hotside to ground you are shorting directly to ground and who knows what will give up without a fuse installed, probably fuse in your multi-meter. BDC
And since we know fuses are not burning, you can expect to see amp readings within the acceptable range for that circuit. ;)
I knew that. BDC
Thanks gents. Glad I asked, in my ignorance I would have done more damage. I appreciate the advice.
1. Old fuse box is a potential area of unwanted current draw - get it replaced
2. Test actual current at fuses across the connectors with fuses removed and bike running. But only if the multimeter can carry the current ( My model is rated at 10 amp for 10 seconds max using unfused connections)
Can that be done? Won't removing fuses stop the bike running? What am I missing here?
Cheers
Quote from: pinholenz on March 05, 2013, 03:15:25 AM
Thanks gents. Glad I asked, in my ignorance I would have done more damage. I appreciate the advice.
1. Old fuse box is a potential area of unwanted current draw - get it replaced
2. Test actual current at fuses across the connectors with fuses removed and bike running. But only if the multimeter can carry the current ( My model is rated at 10 amp for 10 seconds max using unfused connections)
Can that be done? Won't removing fuses stop the bike running? What am I missing here?
Cheers
The only way to measure current with your mulitmeter is to have it "in series" or "in line" (as opposed to "in parallel" or "across" when measuring voltage) with the circuit being tested. With fuse removed (for the circuit being tested) you'll need to have each lead of the meter attached to each side of the fuse holder with alligator clips before starting the bike. In this way, you have replaced the fuse with the meter and are now in series with the circuit. As mentioned, most meters have a fused internal circuit (10 amps is typical) designed to protect the meter internals. You
may however be able to read current higher than 10 amps for very brief periods (a few seconds) since the multimeter fuse is of a slow blow design. Take care in ensuring meter leads do not touch each other and are clear of touching ground...! :o Also be sure each lead connection with alligator clips and fuse holder is tight and has as much contact as possible. If only little or loose contact is made, this may generate heat from the current flow...! :o
Remove the fuse and connect one meter lead to one end of the fuse clip and the other meter lead to the other fuse clip. Now the meter is in series - it is the fuse. Turn the key on and note the amp draw. I'm not sure you need to run the engine.
So now you have a value which is presumably less than the amp rating of the fuse i.e. it is within the acceptable range. We know this because you are not burning fuses and we are assuming you are using the correct fuses. So what do you do with this info? What do you compare it to? What do you fix, replace or repair? As far as you can tell it's within spec, right?
This seems to come from a comment that the R/R doesn't like high current draw. I won't touch this one as I've seen the exact opposite argued. "...alternator puts out max all the time, the more you use the less has to be shunted, the R/R runs cooler, etc., etc..." Some have added higher amp headlights and other accessories claiming it's helped there situation. I don't know if it's true or not and there are no controlled tests to derive accurate results from which to draw a conclusion. The anecdotal evidence is all over the place.
I'm suggesting replacing the fuse box simply because it's the right thing to do, not because I believe it's the ruination of your R/R's. :D Worse case scenario eventually the resistance gets sufficiently high at corroded crimped OEM fuse fittings, the wires melt and worse. After replacement, the headlight will be brighter and the ignition will have more available volts which is especially helpful during cranking. You'll be starting with a more sound electrical system and eliminating the potential for problems. This was enough reason for me to replace mine and I did realize higher system voltage changing nothing else.
The original R/R on your Vision failed because they suck. Maybe the used replacements installed later were questionable as well. Who knows for sure. The only thing an ohm test will indicate is if it's absolutely dead. If it shows good, it unfortunately won't tell you how close to death it is. My suggestion is try a MOSFET this time. Start with a good battery and stator. Consider replacing the battery cables. Make the AC to R/R connections mechanically and electrically sound. Connect the plus and minus R/R wires directly to the battery. Replace the fuse box. Then cross your fingers and hope for the best. ;D
I doubt there is a circuit on this Vision that is drawing excessive current. The fact that the battery maintained proper charge for an extended period of time before regulator failure indicates the charging system was able to handle the load. The charging current out of the stator is approximately constant. Charging current necessary to maintain proper battery voltage flows to the battery. Any excess current bypasses the battery. There are some different R/R semiconductors in use depending on if charging current is being supplied to the battery or not. Hopefully the R/R is designed for reliability under minimal to heavy charging.
l would recommend circuit resistance checks if fuses were blowing or to see if the battery was being discharged while the bike was parked. I don't recommend inserting your meter in the circuit to measure amperage. To properly measure in circuit current flows you need a current probe, something few of us have available. If your meter can measure low resistance values you can measure fuse resistance, then measure the voltage across the fuse and use i=v/r to calculate current. If the circuit has non-constant current flow, the meter reading will be dependent on how the meter combines the ac and dc components of the voltage.
My recommended path forward is similar to what the others on this thread recommend:
1. Perform the stator resistance checks to assure it is ok.
2. If it has any burnt sections replace it even if it tests ok.
3. Perform R/R tests on the new candidate R/R, MOSFET unit is improvement over previous design.
4. Check and clean as necessary all electrical connections to verify integrity and assure low resistance. This especially applies to the fuse box if you don't replace it.
5. Install resistance checked R/R.
6. Charge battery.
7. Start engine and check for proper voltage, approximately 14 volts.
I have seen 12.5 volts when one phase in the Stator is burnt . My VX read fine until I rode 5 miles , then it started to show low charge rate . I checked it with a meter when I got home . It took about 15 to thirty min, to show failure . The stator had 3 dark brown colis as opposed to the XZ's crispy black , cindery ones. I installed a used one from an XZ (tan in colour ) Its been working for two years now . Many bikes have problems with the G7 stators , but the XZ really punishes them.
The day before yesterday I made new mounting points on the shortened subframe for the seat and tail unit.
Yesterday I fibreglassed up a new removable section for under the seat to hold all my wiring neat and tidy. I did this by creating a mockup in place with thin stiff cardboard, then glassing over it........ well actually is was a beer box I used, "Tui" for those who know it, not the prettiest job but strong and well hidden under the seat.
Today I actually made my wiring all neat and tidy, replacing some of it and trimming the rest to suit. The voltage regulator now sits on the outside of the fibreglass piece in clean moving air under the tail section and the effective battery terminals are now basically under the seat with permanent leads down to the battery itself just below the swingarm pivot.
I also did a quick eyeball of the Ducati SS900 tailpiece I am using, threw a bit of masking tape at it and then hit it with the partoff saw, (someone really should put that out of reach ;D
Fortunately it then became obvious how I was going to do the tail light/indicator/numberplate arrangement down aft which up til that point had been somewhat of a mystery.......... ::)
A little different, clean and simple with no "sticky out" bits and using the rear tail light of my FZR1000 which got "replaced" 17 years ago, (it's amazing how these things hang around), and to top it off I am going to use a couple of Aprilia indicators in a non standard manner ;D ;D
As a bonus there is probably another couple of kg's removed from the rear.
For everyone's safety and to help protect all pocket books here is some pertinent information regarding the MOSFET RR units. They do NOT test the same way the original silicon chip RR units do. I don't know how to test them if not connected to a working bike, but they do respond to testing under normal operation for voltage delivered to the battery. A steady reading at the battery of about 14.2V from just above idle and all up through the rev range is what I look for.
Today I received my MOSFET R/R taken from a 2009 Honda CBR600RR. It looks like a brand new FH008 series R/R. Thanks for the heads up Fret Nut - I had been looking for a testing regime similar to the excellent tutorial available for shunt rectifiers. Looks like I just have to hook it up and see what the output is. Suck it and see!
I will be hooking it directly to the battery as per this schematic (same as my old R/R)
http://roadstercycle.com/Easy%20Mosfet%20Install.htm
The advantage of the CBR MOSFET is that it comes with long tails and good quality connectors (if you can get them). Either way you are not having to try to extend the stator wires or source plugs to hook directly in to the R/R body as with later style MOSFETS.
I have mounted the new R/R/ back in to the old position behind the battery box. Although the bolt hols are the same position, the body is bigger, so I have mounted it on an angle to get it to fit. Should finish the job in a couple of days, snatching 15 minutes when I can.
treedragon - thanks for the post and bringing us back in line with the spirit of the thread. We got a little carried away with techy stuff there for a bit! It's always nice to hear from you and I enjoy keeping up with your latest mods. If you can I'd love to see some pics.
pinholenz - hopefully the new R/R will do the trick. As fret pointed out and you've discovered there doesn't seem to be any published procedure for statically checking the MOSFET R/Rs - at least when I last checked which was admittedly a while ago now that I think of it.... :-[ Give us an update when it's completed and let us know what the running voltage across the battery is. :)
so then................ today saw some more "play it by ear" creating with the prime motivation being to find a strong lightweight mount for the rear light and indicators that also gave more rigidity to the tailpiece for small luggage carrying. Seemed straight forward as there were mainly right angles involved with the base structure. Then, low and behold.... there it was, one of those right angle shelf supports with the round ends made out of pressed steel with the rib down the center.
I made up a sacrificial piece then tested to destruction before the main one got thoroughly glassed into the underside of the tailpiece. It is very strong, provides the appropriate support, some minor details to sort out still, and definitely lightweight.
Out of some aluminium angle laying around the place I crafted a simple framework to hold the indicators and tail light as one unit and have mounted in position under the tailpiece on the new main support. The look.......... well sort of orange eyed Darth Vader really ;D at least from behind, mind you that could change as I still have to create/glass in, some underside panels for the tail piece...... hmmm I have just thought I might be able to enhance the effect, keep any tailgaters at bay and the like. The tail piece and the attendant indicators are totally under the fairing, streamlined even, so that might be worth another inch per hour in speed........
Side view is great, my frenzied part off saw work yesterday doesn't seem to have gone astray.
The underside I will do at a later point, (there is a ride on this weekend, I need to be road legal for it), so I don't really have time........... possibly.......... hmmmm maybe ;D
The method I will use is to create a mold of the new bits out of cardboard attached to the existing tail, shaped in situ so to speak. Possibly Tui cartons again as it takes quite well to being shaped in multiple curves (as long as I don't drink the contents first ::) ), and then glass directly onto the tail piece, simply peeling off the cardboard formers afterwards and finishing.
An interesting observation is that with the fully exposed wheel and lifted tail section the rear wheel does not look so skinny (by today's standards)
Of course this little lot has suggested to me that I need to craft a new seat for the final marrying in of the tail piece and the tank but I think that will be a story for another time I have a plan.... ;D ;D
Tonight, got the MOSFET wired up and couldn't help but start the bike at 10.30 pm. Sorry neighbours - just HAD to do it. Steady 14.2 volts at the battery terminals at idle and 13.9 volts with the lights on. Will sleep easy tonight and go for a run tomorrow.
Also fitted a replacement indicator cancellation unit. I didn't even realise that the indicators should self-cancel. Looking forward to finding out if it works or whether I have problem elsewhere.
Tonight pulled Blackie up onto the lift for a spring carb clean and new set of D7EA plugs. She is blowing a bit of oil and is about to get slated for some new high lift cams. Soon I'll have a custom set of rings made up for a new top end. Seems to pull as hard as ever now.
Just have to sort out a potential vacuum leak and I think she's good to go.
Where does one get a set of high lift cams?
kwells, do you pull the carbs off every spring for a cleaning or are there special circumstances?
Roro, not sure where kwells is sourcing them but there are companies that will happily take your money and grind you a custom set of cams. :D I think it's Megacycle cams in California that can build up your stock cam then custom grind it to agreed upon specs.
Quote from: Rikugun on March 16, 2013, 11:28:39 AM
kwells, do you pull the carbs off every spring for a cleaning or are there special circumstances?
Roro, not sure where kwells is sourcing them but there are companies that will happily take your money and grind you a custom set of cams. :D I think it's Megacycle cams in California that can build up your stock cam then custom grind it to agreed upon specs.
Just curious...How would one go about deciding on cam lift and duration? What specs would you give the cam grinder or would they have some input? Interesting subject... ???
By immersing yourself in the world of high performance engine work. Read, study, follow others with similar interests. Because the Vision is what it is, this forum has minimum focus on high performance work. There are other forums however that are rich in high performance discussion and engine building. The interwebs is a great place to look and is full of info free for the researching. :) Also, the aftermarket camshaft industry will often be the best source of info. As you might expect, they are quite knowledgeable with what they do.
Personally I know very little about that world and have always been an advocate of keeping things a bit closer to stock for reliability in street use. Even when I raced it was in a box stock class which evens the field and is more about riding skill then budget or performance mod prowess. While I can appreciate the skill and dedication to those that really do it well it's never been my thing. :D
I got the cams from a member here about 5 years ago and they have sat until now. I still need to do some research to see how they will fit. They came with a performance kit I got that ended up being for an xz400. I will be selling the high comp 400 pistons(oversized) matched cylinders, and rods that I won't use though.
I pulled the carbs just as a precaution since it was running poorly. I had a liner get dissolved by some race fuel I ran last year so I wanted to verify they were still good(they are). It only took about an hour to get them cleaned and back in so not much invested. I added D7ea plugs at the same time...turned out to be the plugs fouled out. Next up I'll be replacing my cracked intake boots.
So you are trying a slightly hotter plug as a stop gap measure to combat the beat rings and oil fouling?
exactly. The D8EA plugs weren't lasting long. Will need to have Total Seal make me a set of custom rings since they don't exist. My compression is about 90psi so I think the compression rings are fine so I think my oil rings are going out. I just need to get it to last until then.
Another thing to check with motors burning a bunch of oil is the valve guide. Hogged out valve guide plus not the most pliant valve seals in the world leads to the intake valve ingesting oil constantly. Haven't found a worn guide yet, but im sure they're out there.
worn guides are possible, But I have never seen any so worn , that they could not be used, ( in a Jap bike ) Coventry triumphs were a different matter . The high performance guides were bronze , the stock ones were iron. Neither were long lived. It has to do with the rocker arm angle . OHC engines were much less prone to problems.
Today I tightened up the steering head retaining nuts. I replaced the ball bearings with a roller bearing set about a year ago. I am amazed at how often I seem to adjust them down to take up movement as they settle. Not impressed with the lock system on the headstock nuts. I have taken to using Locktite on them for my peace of mind.
Mosfet R/R running fine. Happy bunny!
You do have two nuts on the steering stem, or should have. If you are getting more movement developing even though you have locked (jammed) the nuts, possibly the bearings were not fully seated ( cups in the frame, and the bottom cone on the stem). The top cone 'floats' on the stem which allows the adjustment with the two nuts.
Typically only one adjustment is required after they settle in. I'd have to wonder if the races were driven all the way into the frame. The bottom one in particular is awkward to get at.
Quote from: Rick G on March 18, 2013, 02:17:21 AM
worn guides are possible, But I have never seen any so worn , that they could not be used, ( in a Jap bike ) Coventry triumphs were a different matter . The high performance guides were bronze , the stock ones were iron. Neither were long lived. It has to do with the rocker arm angle . OHC engines were much less prone to problems.
Never seen any bad bottom end bearings on a vision either, but its a possibility with an engine ;)
Changed my rear tyre from a tired Metzler to a used Michelin that had had a short former life on a BMW. Now running a Michelin Pilot Activ on the rear and a Pirelli Match up front. Looking forward to a run over Easter to see if the handling improves. I have been getting a disconcerting skip sideways on gentle turns with the old tyre. I thought it might be the swinging arm bearings, but all seems to be tight.
Today I POR'd my heart out for the gas tank. :D It was an all day job, but I wanted to be meticulous after reading several warnings to follow the instructions to the letter.
I'll tell you what, this isn't a job I wanna do again any time soon- if ever! It wasn't difficult really, just very nerve-wracking. With such limited sight into the tank, everything seemed to be a guessing game....just do your best, cross your fingers and hope you didn't screw up in there.
Total time spent on the job was several hours, but I think it paid off. To my uneducated eye the final product looks pretty promising. I won't know how well it holds up until after the bike has run for a while, but all the major rust that was in the tank was completely removed. I ran my finger inside the tank before the metal prep had time to flash rust, and there was no rust on my finger afterwards....I'm impressed! Also very-very-very pleased to find not a single pinhole in the tank. I kept a close eye on it all day and didn't find a leak.
I sanded the neck opening and put some POR around it and on the neck as well, for whatever extra protection it might add. Looks considerably nicer anyways. The excess POR was a pain to remove, but got as much out as I could and now she's sitting bottom-up drying out for the next few days.
One more hurdle out of the way, moving on to the next! I've got some electrical work tidy up (does that ever end?) and then wheel bearings, new tires, and carb rebuild. After that I can finally do a road test. I'm dying to ride, man.
Fuzz, stick with it and eventually you will run out of things to do. That's the time you take it out for a shake down and then go over everything you can think of, checking for leaks, loose bolts, tire pressure, etc. and then go out for a good ride. Don't forget to make a report, as we will probably have something to comment on.
Today, being Easter weekend over here, I gave the XZ a good thrashing. Its been a long time coming, but finally got enough of the fiddly bits out of the way so we could get out on the open road with some mates for the day. 350km of coastal twisties, high speed sweepers, long straight roads over the plains and even some gravel over an isolated backroad pass. Delighted. That's me with the gnomish grin!
I bought my girl a sandblasting cabinet - I can't believe I never got one of these before.
Ripped the shitty paint of some switchgear in about 1 minute flat and leaves a nice satin surface for painting/powder
In the last 2 weeks : Applied/Received my BC collector plates after having bike sit for 5 years (divorce) replaced all fluids including coolant flush, forks, rear end and brakes and fresh oil/filter. removed Carbs and soaked/dissasembled and reassembled. Started her up on second try. She Idled nicely and then would not restart, just a click from the relay. Removed starter and was amazed at the amount of oil congealed in there..amazing it even turned over at all. order a kit on eBay and Rebuilt my Starter installed and promptly severed the nice new o-ring supplied with the rebuild kit..sigh..three different o-rings later and requisite removals she is not leaking oil anymore. I took her out for my first ride in over 5 years and fell in love again with that awesome v twin torque and sweet signature exhaust note....yes I am addicted to these bikes :-) celebrated by purchasing another Vision off craigslist...bringing my total to 3.
It is a sickness..No? LOL
-Dan
Today I removed the standard carb's and cut the inlet tubes from a Weber as mounted on a 906 Paso. This all prior to installing the Weber down draught carb............
Note: since I put the new exhaust on, the standard carbs have been decidedly less than awesome (but better than standard)............... except between 7500rpm and 8900 rpm where it had been positively awesome, (relatively speaking)............
So over the next week or two we might see some definitive results from the exhaust/cam changes as previously documented, THEN if the world hasn't turned into a bag of soggy jelly babies............ don't hold your breath on this.................. we will see what a relatively standard XZ will REALLY do!!
"Relatively standard"!!! ;)
Thanks Treedragon. Spent a happy hour today looking at Ducati's and especially the Paso which I didn't know anything about. I was surprised to hear that some of these short-lived production bikes made it to NZ and was amazed to see 2 or 3 Paso's for sale on Trademe starting at NZ $3000.
I wonder what the 0-100 kph will be for your refined XZ? I have heard some claim 3.4 secs for a stock XZ 550 (I doubt it) and 2.6 secs for a Ducati Diavel at twice the engine capacity and marginally lighter than a stock XZ.
Hehe Diavel and XZ in the same sentence ;D the XZ might make a good starter motor for the Diavel. They are totally ear to ear grin making awesome to ride, particularly when they have a decent exhaust on them. I doubt there are many that can match them for pure arm stretching GRUNT 8) and they handle well............... well relatively speaking anyway ;)
However........... the XZ wins hands down in the tight and twisties, proven fact ;D ;D ;D
But I digress, today I got some time in and finished dressing and adjusting the placement of the new inlet manifolds ready for welding onto the base plate of the Weber, but not by me, and that will be the big part of the job done. The rest of this job will just be the fiddly sort things that many of us enjoy ::)
Today the new manifolds were welded up with many thanks for the welder, then cleaned & trued up then offered to the bike with the carb on. The next stage is pump placement, throttle & choke controls and sorting out an approximation of the correct jets ready for a test ride in the not too distant future 8) 8)
So how does it look? Rather nice, clean. With the tank on all that is visible is a nice clear view between the V's headed by two nicely curved alloy inlet manifolds.
An air box is not an issue with these carbs so I am not going to bother with much of one, just make do with directing cool fresh air directly from the nose (I built the vents into the front quite some time ago in anticipation of this). Tuning the velocity stacks and devising an air filter arrangement is another job to do.
The whining from the speedometer gears became so loud as to be embarassing so I took the cable off yesterday and rode home without a running speedo. This morning before I left for work I stuck the plastic nozzle for a silicone lubricant spray into the speedo cable inlet, managed to connect to the spray can from between the fairing, let it spray for about 20 continuous seconds.
When I started the ride this morning I still heard the whine so I figured there was no easy way and decided I would have to take the meter case off and grease up over the weekend, but after a few kilometers I noticed that the whine was gone and at least for the remainder of the ride to work, the screeching whine did not come back.
I don't know how long this is going to last but we'll see.
Remove the cable from the speedo. Do your absolute best to force a large dab of grease into the speedo via where the cable plugs into the speedo unit. Really work it into the speedo....... You will fail to get any grease into the unit......... However, the effort you put into the futility of trying to get grease inside the unit will have forced grease into the small space between the speedo head body and the carrier bearing that the speedo cable plugs into. This area is what needed to be lubricated. One such treatment will probably last the rest of the units lifetime.
Harry, when I read the symptoms the first thing I thought of was the speedo only because it's fairly common. That's not to say it wasn't just the cable, but let us know of any changes. ;)
If not the cable maybe the drive unit? You mentioned a delay in symptom abatement... do you think it's possible lube eventually made it's way down and had an influence on the drive? The drive does need occasional maintenance and is often ignored. :)
A delay might also point to the speedo as QBS indicated. I read in an old repair manual a recommendation to grease only the bottom third of the speedometer cable. They claimed the grease would be distributed upwards by the spinning cable thus lubing the entirety of the cable over time. Lubing the entire cable by hand they argued would be too much and foul the speedometer. If this has any merit perhaps some of the spray lube worked it's way up the cable and into the back of the speedo effectively lubing the troublesome squeaky bits. ;D
I just got rid of the unbelievable loud noise that a dry speedo bushing can make. With the gauge upside down on the bench I took care to get oil into the small crack all the way around the bushing area, once I new I had it I used my drill motor to spin it so that the lube would make it everywhere still in the upside down position. I too had over greased my cable and it made a mess on the front of my motor as it leaked off while riding, should have removed excess from cable.
Today I fitted the Weber.
Tomorrow I road test ;D ;D ;D ;D and more ;D ;D ;D
This is now a VERY FAST revving bike, unlike any XZ I have ever heard, bodes very well for performance methinks.
Snap the throttle open and the revs reach for the sky instantly........ I guess it feels happy now it can breath well.
Sooooooo...... assuming the next stage goes as expected that just leaves the ported heads to go on along with the balanced crank. It is balanced to over 80% and good for 15,000 revs..... this is where the Weber just might come in handy :o
The Weber is a 44mm unit with a choke point of 36mm (inside of carb) and running bigger jets than what Glyn was using and will likely need some fine tuning yet but on the right track we are I´m a thinking.
That sounds awesome and I'm jealous of that throttle response! :D Can you at least throw me a bone and post some pics of the carb install? :)
Took my frame for bike # 3 to get sandblasted.
Also took some aluminum parts to the sand blaster guy who is going to use soda. Does anyone have any ideas on how to protect the aluminum once it comes back raw? I gave him parts that are extras and if I like the finish, I will keep them raw. I have a feeling I am going to like it.
when you get them back can you post photos of the soda blasted bits, I to would be interested in the raw look..
Iain
NZ
absolutely, i'm in a line about a week long. hope not much longer than that.
The XZ550D I got has pretty clean tank and fairings but the details aren't so tidy so I decided to polish the footpeg plate which was pretty badly oxidized and soiled. Plain steel wool pads from a nearby dollar store (or a 100 Yen store as they are called here) and me rubbing the plate for 15 minutes during lunch break at the office parking lot paid off pretty well.
QBS, Rikugun, supervision
Thanks for the advise. I will remove the gauge assy the next weekend and grease it the best I can.
Oh and I changed my rear tire yesterday as the one that came with the bike was so hardened like it was fossilized. Nothing fancy just a Bridgestone Battlax BT45 110/100-18. At least now it feels like a normal bike.
Today I road tested ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D 8)
....... not a long one mind you as weather, traffic, and time limited things somewhat BUT it was enough to be able to say this is not the bike I rode last week.
Some more mileage is required to get a handle on the final tuning of the Weber but so far I can say it's very strong throughout the lower and mid range. There is no question about overtake power under any circumstances, it is substantially better than before even though it felt a little..... heavy, possibly a little rich at this stage.
The bit that REALLY interested me was a short stint at the end where I was tooling along at a bit over 150k (95mph) in through traffic on the motorway when there was a bigger space ahead and so I whipped the throttle open and it just laaaaauuunched........ note changed, it got real smooth my grin got ear to ear and I promptly run out of gap real quick. At a rough estimate I would say it will easily pull past 200k (125mph) on this setup so I would say fueling at the top end might be pretty close to right, will have to test of course, maybe first thing tomorrow morning ;D ;D ;D
So the talk now is towards finding a set of rings and maybe some stronger valve springs so we can build up another engine with the balanced crank and ported heads............. just imagine 15,000 redline 8)
will organize some photos
Thanks for the update treedragon, that really does sound amazing! Now I'm thinking a GoPro ride along video posted to YouTube might be in order...(hint, hint) ;D
Harry, nice job with minimal expense and a bit of elbow grease! Speaking of nice little details....I noticed in your pics the rear brake pedal is much nicer looking than the North American models. Ours are clunky welded up steel affairs - many with failing chrome plating. :( The one on yours almost looks like cast or forged aluminum?
When my speedo head started squaling, I drilled a 1/16 hole in the side of the cable mount about 1/4 inch above the knurled nut on the top of the cable . I used a tube of synthetic brake lube to inject grease into the hole . I did this with out removing the instrument cluster. A bit of tape over the hole sealed it up.
Rikugun
I didin't notice about the pedal. They are aluminum cast, I think.
I looked at some parts in Japanese auctions and think our 400s have the same steel brake pedals you have.
The 550s were substantially more expensive than the 400s (if memory serves me correctly the list price for the 400D was about JPY570,000 and 550D was about JPY620,000) which is a bit of a difference for a pair of larger pistons and cylinders. So Yamaha slapped on some nice details to justify the price difference, I suppose. Other "luxuries" include a fuel meter on the 550D meter cluster, which the 400D does not have.
QuoteI didin't notice about the pedal. They are aluminum cast, I think.
hmmmm, I wonder if they are interchangeable with my US '83 setup??? Wonder how much shipping would be....... :D
If you look closely you will see both sets of footpegs are nicer also
Quote from: roro on April 10, 2013, 08:41:56 AM
If you look closely you will see both sets of footpegs are nicer also
Yup - but that I expected, the brake pedal was a bit of a surprise. Do the NZ imports also have that brake pedal?
The the naked 400 imports have the standard pedal and footpegs.
I happen to have a 400D (full fairing) model which is uncommon here. It had the nice footpegs, but the brake pedal I didn't notice. I'll have to rummage through my parts bins
Same, my 550 16R Australasian model has the steel and chrome footbrake. Not as pretty as Harry's by a long chalk.
Rikugun
The postage really depends on the weights but an international small packet (i.e. under 2kg = 4.4lb) for 2kg is about USD20 from Tokyo to NJ.
Only 1 set of pedals I see on Yahoo Auction (eBay pulled out years ago from Japan due to the overwhelming dominance of Yahoo Auction so it is basically the only viable auction site in Japan). About USD 46 each. I think the transmission pedals are also aluminum for the 25R XZ550D.
http://auctions.search.yahoo.co.jp/search?p=xz550+%E3%83%9A%E3%83%80%E3%83%AB&auccat=26308&aq=-1&oq=&ei=UTF-8&tab_ex=commerce&slider=0 (http://auctions.search.yahoo.co.jp/search?p=xz550+%E3%83%9A%E3%83%80%E3%83%AB&auccat=26308&aq=-1&oq=&ei=UTF-8&tab_ex=commerce&slider=0)
Today I made up my own Carb cleaner after doing some research as to what should be in it . Methyl ethyl ketone (MEK), Acetone and Toluene (No such things as Berrymans here). I went to a local paint manufacturer and brought 5 litres of spray gunwash to which I added a litre of Methylene Chloride brought from the same place. Soaked the carbs for 20 mins, blew out and reassembled. Seemed to work well. Excellent solvent for varnishes and deposits. (Use gloves, eye protection and a mask, in an open ventilated area with no naked flames)
Carbs now back on bike and seem happy. Off throttle stumble greatly reduced and revving freely. Good pull. (thanks Jim and Cvincer) Still not 100% but I am yet to do a through re-check for YICS leaks and to re-synch the carbs.
MEK is not available to me in my area. What they have is a "MEK Substitute". I have decided that it does not compare to the real thing.
Quote from: HarryTakeuchi on April 10, 2013, 10:46:09 PM
....Only 1 set of pedals I see on Yahoo Auction ......About USD 46 each. I think the transmission pedals are also aluminum for the 25R XZ550D.
Harry, thanks for looking into that. It is tempting but I think I'll spend that money on the bike elsewhere. :)
Would be kina cool though.... ;) I'm guessing the splines are the same and the length is akin to the US '83 model???
If I remember right the brake pedal off a 900 Seca is aluminum and bolts right up to the Vision. I think that is what I used.
Jeff
Which Vision? The two years use different length controls.
That would be an 83. Sorry I should have mentioned that.
Jeff
Thanks - I thought it might be the '83 but didn't want to assume. :)
My battery died suddenly. The dead battery was a made-in-China deal that I got for about 30 dollars so I kind of expected that it may not last very long, but this is less than a month since I got the battery brand new. One of the cells had a very low reading on the hydrometer so maybe something is short curcuited inside that cell. I changed it to a genuine Furukawa Battery and this better live longer as it cost me about 5 times as much.
It seems like the Japanese did not sell all there secrets to the Chinese, They still have quality control problems!
What did I do to my Vision today? I broke her rear wheel! Gah! :-[
Trying to remove the old wheel bearings, I destroyed a few blocks of wood with my BFH (this is the second BFH...I destroyed the first one removing the front bearings). With no more wood around to use as a buffer between the hub and hammer, I decided to use a flatbar wrapped in towels. Stupid mistake. Stupid, stupid. My grip slipped on the flatbar and with one strike I smashed it into the edge of the drum, knocking a nice chip out of the drum.
I'm almost done with the task of getting the bike running. I'd be really pissed about this if it weren't for the fact that I found a replacement wheel on Ebay for really cheap. Now comes the fun part...more waiting for parts!
I swear, I think the gremlins know that I am about to smash them to the grave with a vengeance and they're putting up their last full effort, bringing out the big dogs so to speak. I had no idea the bearings were gonna be that stubborn.
Well, about two weeks ago Vision #4 (which came in trash cans and boxes) went to the sand blaster. Just got it back and it is primed already. Paint gets picked out tomorrow.
You should have asked I have spare wheels. I use a large aluminum drift.
Quote from: Fuzzlewump on April 19, 2013, 01:07:55 AM
Trying to remove the old wheel bearings, I destroyed a few blocks of wood with my BFH (this is the second BFH...I destroyed the first one removing the front bearings). With no more wood around to use as a buffer between the hub and hammer, I decided to use a flatbar wrapped in towels....... My grip slipped on the flatbar and with one strike I smashed it into the edge of the drum, knocking a nice chip out of the drum.
Sorry to hear about the rim. I'm curious what your exact procedure was especially relating to the use of wood blocks for removal and how a hammer gets destroyed in the process? There is a learning opportunity here - unfortunately at your expense. :( Seriously not wanting to rub salt in your wounds but others may want to avoid doing what you did. :)
During removal and depending on the interference fit, wood may be absorbing too much impact energy requiring wild inaccurate blows like you're swingin' for the fence. :D The trick is to get the inner spacer out of the way sufficiently to get a long drift (from the opposite side) against the inner race and drive it out with hammer blows directly on the metal drift.
For installation,
ONLY drive against the outer race. I've used a medium size ball pein hammer and a seal/bearing driver set with great success. It's only a small investment but if it saves one rim, engine case, etc. it's worth it. I've had mine for years and I don't recall where I got it but there are many sites that sell them like Harbor Freight and others. Motion Pro sells a set specifically for wheel bearings. Here's one from Northern Tools ( link below) similar to mine. The adaptors are beveled maybe for tapered bearing race installation? They can be reversed to use the flats as well. You can also use the disks without the handle which is helpfull in directing impact bias if it does happen to get cooked. Once it's straight and inserted even a modest amount, blows can then be centered again and it will continue to drive straight. :)
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200353977_200353977 (http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200353977_200353977)
Quote from: Rikugun on April 20, 2013, 09:32:11 AM
Sorry to hear about the rim. I'm curious what your exact procedure was especially relating to the use of wood blocks for removal and how a hammer gets destroyed in the process? There is a learning opportunity here - unfortunately at your expense. :( Seriously not wanting to rub salt in your wounds but others may want to avoid doing what you did. :)
I'm beginning to think that I've had the wrong idea about the removal process all along...
Haynes manual says when you turn the hub over after heating it the bearings "should fall out of place." They most certainly do not! It also says that if they don't, "give the hub a rap with a soft-faced hammer to dislodge them."
I was heating the hub around the bearing I wanted to remove, then turning the wheel over and laying a block of wood on the opposite side of the hub, and hammering it with a 2lb rubber mallet. The wood was for extra protection, because I was afraid of damaging the mallet. ::)
This destroyed every block of wood I used (square blocks of 2x4), so I began just hammering on the hub itself with the rubber mallet. This destroyed the mallet, lol. This process did manage to remove three wheel bearings after a
serious amount of effort, however. Bottom line- it works, but is a MAJOR pain in the @ss. Took about an hour per bearing. After running out of wood blocks and ruining my rubber mallet, I switched to a flatbar wrapped in towels and a 3lb steel hammer. This was failing to remove the last two bearings in the rear wheel, but I kept trying until I damaged the drum.
Quote from: Rikugun on April 20, 2013, 09:32:11 AM
During removal and depending on the interference fit, wood may be absorbing too much impact energy requiring wild inaccurate blows like you're swingin' for the fence.
I think this was definitely my problem when trying to
install the front bearings using the rubber mallet...a switch to the steel BFH solved it.
Quote from: Rikugun on April 20, 2013, 09:32:11 AM
:D The trick is to get the inner spacer out of the way sufficiently to get a long drift (from the opposite side) against the inner race and drive it out with hammer blows directly on the metal drift.
Are you saying that if I remove the inner race of the bearing and the balls as well then the outer race will come out of the hub more easily?
I've read about that method for decades . Never worked well for me either. I use a heavy 14 inch punch , with flat end . I manage to catch the edge of the outer race and tap around the parameter , slowly moving the bearing out . This after heating the hub. Some ice chips in the center of the bearing helps too.
Quote from: Rick G on April 20, 2013, 11:25:53 PM
I've read about that method for decades . Never worked well for me either. I use a heavy 14 inch punch , with flat end . I manage to catch the edge of the outer race and tap around the parameter , slowly moving the bearing out . This after heating the hub. Some ice chips in the center of the bearing helps too.
I tried this method and it worked! I was unable to get a good position on the outer race with a punch, so I used a 1/2 inch drive extension and just hit the inner race instead. I was very worried that I'd push the inner race out and leave the outer stuck in the hub. This didn't happen at all, the bearing came right out without a single ounce of resistance!!
Thanks for the millionth time....you guys are awesome.
I am posting a more detailed explanation of my efforts on my thread "Wheel bearing magic" for future readers....
QuoteQuote from: Rikugun on April 20, 2013, 09:32:11 AM
The trick is to get the inner spacer out of the way sufficiently to get a long drift (from the opposite side) against the inner race and drive it out with hammer blows directly on the metal drift.
Are you saying that if I remove the inner race of the bearing and the balls as well then the outer race will come out of the hub more easily?[/quote]
No, there is a "floating" spacer in between the bearings and contacts the inner race on both bearings. There is a flange on one end of it that helps keep it centered in the wheel hub. You can shift that spacer aside slightly (usually the non flanged end is easier) exposing the inner race face. Once enough is exposed to get a long drift onto it from the other side, you can drive the bearing out. You're not going to reuse the bearing so don't worry about driving it out using the inner race. Once it and the spacer are removed there is much more room to work making the second one easier to remove. Depending on the rim you may even be able to drive against the outer race on the second bearing. Just go around the perimeter alternately hitting on one side then the other to evenly drive it out.
I've never bothered with heat or ice and not had any issues. The method you described from the Haynes manual seems quite difficult. Not many home shops have a heat source sufficient to raise the temps quickly to make that work. The factory manual mentions neither heat nor ice so I guess Yamaha isn't too concerned about it. The procedure should take minutes, not hours. :)
I did exactly as you just described, Riku, and it worked beautifully. I updated my previous wheel bearing thread to offer some reference for future readers. Thanks a ton!
I put it back together today, it runs!!!
QuoteQuote from: Rikugun on April 20, 2013, 09:32:11 AM
I just got rid of the unbelievable loud noise that a dry speedo bushing can make. With the gauge upside down on the bench I took care to get oil into the small crack all the way around the bushing area, once I new I had it I used my drill motor to spin it so that the lube would make it everywhere still in the upside down position. .....
[/quote]
Also had the screaming speedo bushing today. Scared the daylights out of me - I fully expected the cam to seize up, Then I remembered this thread and relaxed. I did the Rikugun lube method tonight. Run the drill in reverse to have the speedo operate properly. I used a snug fitting drill mounted by the flutes so that the shank end was in the speedo female connection. Thanks Rikugun
Quote from: don_vanecek on April 21, 2013, 09:02:50 PM
I put it back together today, it runs!!!
8) SUUUUPERB news Don, well done my friend. How does she run/feel??
8) ....... TIGER ....... 8)
Today..............
I set up the front fairing ready for a windscreen from a Yamaha R1. Just a little fibreglassing to do ::)
and it's complete with the tuning fork logo 8)
Got a lot done today, and everything went pretty smoothly. A really great day, man!
-I replaced the OEM stator connector with a Delphi Weatherpack one. Eventually I'll replace stator and upgrade the R/R, but both of those checked out nicely today on a cold test with the multimeter. For now time only permits a better connector, but this one's pretty sweet.
-Changed out all the bulbs in the instrument box, as well as the idiot lights. Did some thorough cleaning around in the headlight shell and all around the triple clamps. This bike is covered in dirt and grease.
-Lubricated the speedo drive cable and its connector in the instrument box with some lithium grease. Gonna do the throttle and clutch cables tomorrow.
-Removed the clutch switch from the wiring circuit, as I've already removed the rest of the starter safety cut-off circuit. Less clutter around the handlebars is already looking nicer.
-Installed a nifty little Chinese voltmeter atop the instrument box. I was going to wire it on the horn circuit, but opted for the tach instead. This way I don't have to lengthen any wires, just snip and crimp in.
-Cleaned all the electrical connections in the instrument box and put a dab of dielectric grease on 'em. This was the only part of the electrical system I hadn't yet cleaned and checked. Everything seems to be working properly in there and I was pleased to see that it was all pretty clean even before I touched it.
-Finally got the wheel bearings completed!! ;D ;D I broke down yesterday and spent about 80 bucks getting every tool I could think of to make the job easier. I actually managed to find a brass punch set, which I've been searching everywhere for, and I followed Rikugun's advice and picked up a caliper as well. Also bought a couple of deep sockets to use as drives.
I took my time about it, going over every detail again. It's remarkable how such a simple job can become so frustrating when you aren't mentally prepared. After measuring all the dimensions of the old wheel I had to replace, I realized that I was 99 percent of the way done with the job, and only needed to make some small adjustments. With the tools I had I was able to do it nicely, and I'm satisfied now that it will function as good as possible. What a relief!
My tires came in the mail yesterday. Tomorrow I will get them put on, then the last thing I have to do before firing the engine up is the carb clean. First time in 12 years she's gonna be running!!
I'm really excited for you. Looking forward to your, soon to come, Great Day!
Today i did the fibreglassing for the new front windscreen. It's going to look rather well I'm thinking.
Now it's sandpaper, bog, and paint time to bring it up to standard.
What I did was cut out a piece of the existing fairing then mounted the screen in position with appropriate masking and protection, then used it as an in place mold for some very rapid glassing. I had generously guessed the hardener quantity so felt speed might have been of essence........... good thing I didn't really need the brush anymore ::)
Got a lot more done in the past couple days with very little trouble. Working on this machine is getting more and more enjoyable all the time, now that I know riding it is in the near future.
I was up all night last night working on her, and spent all day on it as well. Managed to sand and paint the frame, one coat of a Rustoleum rust protectant/primer and one coat of a satin black grill paint. It's a rattle-can job, so I don't know how it'll hold up in the long run...but right now it looks amazing. :D It's such a great difference in appearance that I can't stop walking around the bike and staring at it.
I also pulled off the radiator and all its hosing, and discovered some startling evidence that the bike was left sitting with fluids in it. The T-joint with the thermostatic switch is really badly rusted around the nozzles, and inside is super nasty too. In the light of the garage it appeared that the inside of the joint was very calcified and filled with bubbled and flaky rust...in sunlight I could see that what looked like bubbled metal was actually the welds within the joint, but it's still super freakin' dirty in there.
The hose nozzle on the right side cover is also coated in a thick rust. I flushed out the radiator today with water and everything looked clean so far, but I'm still very worried about what I will find in the right side cover when I rebuild the coolant system this weekend.
I've learned that aluminum doesn't rust, so I feel better about the cylinder jackets. What I don't know about is the rest of the coolant system, inside the right side cover. What is in there that could be extensively damaged from bad fluids sitting in the bike for years? Am I facing a potentially major operation here?
Cleaned and painted the fan, and wrapped the wiring harness in new tape. The bike is looking cleaner and healthier all the time. Cheesy as it may sound, I'm happier than I've been in a long time when I care for this little machine. I should have gotten into this stuff years ago!
Happy for you!
A couple of days ago I finally dismounted the gauges, turned it upside down lubricated the gauge and the speedo cable. Noise is gone, at least for now. Also kept the side fairings off as I broke the tab on the hot - cold plate on the right side and will have to somehow repair it.
I rode mine for about 600 miles this weekend. I threw a bit of Seafoam through the tank in hopes of sorting out carb issues. Then I ran it through the rain for about an hour and a half. Today I took it around the block for good measure.
As Tiger says "Someone took the love out of it. You have to put the love back into it."
Harry, somewhere in the World of ROV, long ago former Vnary Leather developed and posted a broken what you call the"hot - cold plate" repair procedure. Not sure if his repair applys to your situation, but it's worth investigating. All the Best to you.
http://www.jetav8r.com/Vision/Vent/VentRepair.html (http://www.jetav8r.com/Vision/Vent/VentRepair.html)
Today I finished the fairing, with it's new windscreen from a Yamaha R1.
It works surprisingly well and certainly has a more modern look even if it does accentuate the space alien look.........
Taller than the chopped down version I had on before it gives very good wind protection and really bounces the induction roar from the Weber............ sigh ;D
pictures please Martin
Iain
NZ
well that was predictable ;D ;D ;D
I'm glad Iain asked this time cause I was going to.... :P
Roro, thank you for supplying the link for Harry. And, thank you for your very significant support of our ROV community.
" And, thank you for your very significant support of our ROV community." Yeah, for me too, thanks.
(http://www.martin-rusholme.co.nz/new-screen.jpg)
Quote from: QBS on April 30, 2013, 01:37:56 PM
Roro, thank you for supplying the link for Harry. And, thank you for your very significant support of our ROV community.
Quote from: fret nut on May 01, 2013, 01:05:33 AM
" And, thank you for your very significant support of our ROV community." Yeah, for me too, thanks.
Thanks guys, it's nice to be appreciated. I'm pretty familiar with the manuals by now I find stuff quite quickly.
3036 views on that resources thread - I'm hoping it has helped quite few people out.
Quote from: HarryTakeuchi on April 29, 2013, 09:14:29 PM
A couple of days ago I finally dismounted the gauges, turned it upside down lubricated the gauge and the speedo cable. Noise is gone, at least for now. Also kept the side fairings off as I broke the tab on the hot - cold plate on the right side and will have to somehow repair it.
Quote from: QBS on April 30, 2013, 12:56:52 AM
Harry, somewhere in the World of ROV, long ago former Vnary Leather developed and posted a broken what you call the"hot - cold plate" repair procedure. Not sure if his repair applys to your situation, but it's worth investigating. All the Best to you.
Or here is my method: http://ridersofvision.net/rovforum/index.php?topic=14562.msg132605#msg132605
Nicely done ;)
Jirik, excellent repair. Simple. Minimum number of pieces. Highy functional.
Last weekend on my 82' I Stripped, prepped and painted my swing arm, shaft drive and rear wheel, stabilizer bar...stripped/polished up the the pretty aluminum bits (rear Brake cover) and purchased new or cleaned all the bolts and hardware.....tonight its stripping/paint for the center stand...once done I'll be installing everything back onto the rear of the bike....next up will be the restoration of the front end :-)
Slight oil leak on front cylinder and bike needed good clean after its winter use.
Forks off, drained water, fitted reconditioned starter, took of radiator and cam cover.
With the engine still in place I found the holes in the crank shafts and retorqued the head then put cam cover back on.
A few fixes while its apart, the self cancelled indicators never worked, found the reed switch didnt work, swapped for one of the spares.
The speedo reads 10% fast so with the speedo stripped in a vice I hooked it up to a drill and got it showing 77mph and just nudge the coil spring a bit so it read 70mph (previously checked against some sat navs)
Front forks and front wheel cleaned and repolished.
Reinstated a dash clock/thermometer and replaced blown dash LED light.
Things still to do,- replace fork oil, tidy cabling between the forks , fit new handlebar grips and a decent horn(s)
Great idea for the Speedo fix/adjustment Lexx790!! ;)
Put new handle bar grips on. Decided to use Oury Road/Street grips in black. Delighted so far, although the clutch grip is about 1/2 inch too long. No problem. A YouTube tutorial suggested thoroughly cleaning the bars with Brake Cleaner and then giving the inside of the new grip and the bar a good soak with brake cleaner before slipping the grips on. Worked treat - no glue! Left the grips about an hour and they were on solid
Replaced fork oil.
Drill and tapped fork screw top and fitted a threaded taper plug so I can top up/replace the fork oil up with everything in place in the future.
Yesterday I put on some new foot-peg-rubbers, filled up the tank, and today I drove almost 200km.
My speedometer acts like a window wiper when I get over 80 km/h, so I have no idea how fast I was going on the freeway. Highest gear, and 8500 rpm.
Anyone got a working speedometer to compare with?
kod mene je proljeće jako lijepo vrijeme oko 30 stepeni super vrijeme za provozati yamahu. mapek BIH!!!
You can say that again. It's only 10 degrees here in Denmark, but the sun is out and the road is wide ;)
Ovdje je vrijeme extra ali su zato putevi katastrofa, neznaš šta te čeka iza krivine. Teško je ovdje brzo voziti motocikl.
Quote from: Doc Nielsen on May 12, 2013, 11:18:48 AM
Anyone got a working speedometer to compare with?
Hi Doc, in top gear you will get something like this...
RPM - Km / Hr
1000 - 19
2000 - 39
3000 - 58
4000 - 78
5000 - 98
6000 - 117
7000 - 137
8000 - 157
9000 - 176
10000 - 196
10500 - 206
(assuming 11U gearing and 110/90 Tyre)
Thanks roro. 160 sounds about right. In Denmark the limits on the freeway are 110 or 135. I had the road to myself so I just let it rip :D
Doc, greasing your speedometer cable input bushing and speedometer cable itself should help your speedometer problem. I've written about greasing the input bushing several times. Look it up. Cheers to you.
I tried that already, QBS. I attached a funnel to the top of the cable and poured 10w-40 down until it was well full. Problem is most lightly in the cockpit, not the gear.
You greased the cable receptor bushing?
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a147/highlanderchopperwizard/Betsi/begMVC-004hF1.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a147/highlanderchopperwizard/Betsi/begMVC-004hF2.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a147/highlanderchopperwizard/Betsi/begMVC-004hF3.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a147/highlanderchopperwizard/Betsi/begMVC-004hF4.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a147/highlanderchopperwizard/Betsi/begMVC-004hF5.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a147/highlanderchopperwizard/Betsi/begMVC-004hF.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a147/highlanderchopperwizard/Betsi/midMVC-011F.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a147/highlanderchopperwizard/Betsi/endDSC01404.jpg
:police:
Hmmm, the mesmerising bottom has made a return!!
Very nicely executed custom. ;) Couple of questions...
How does it handle with the forks reversed?
Does the front cylinder exhaust exit similarly to the rear? Picture?
Is the rear wheel a grafted Vision hub/spoke with a Virago rim?
Yamaha nije moja, ona je od kolege sa jednog foruma. ;) Evo link pa možeš pogledati :) http://www.motori.hr/forum/index.php?topic=23088.0
Quote from: mapek on May 14, 2013, 01:56:29 AM
Yamaha nije moja, ona je od kolege sa jednog foruma. ;) Evo link pa možeš pogledati :) http://www.motori.hr/forum/index.php?topic=23088.0
Thanks, that certainly cleared it up.
I went to re-seal the stator cover and found a fried stator. >:(
Oh well time for a new stator, new R/R and some new wiring.
I've only had limited experience with stators, but I am guessing that all XZ stators will "look fried" after a couple of thousand miles and will remain so until they fail. Is it still working OK or has it failed?
Connector at the RR is melted and the insulation is flaking off the stator showing bare copper.
Upon stator replacement, clip off the connector and hardwire the connection.
Quote from: QBS on May 19, 2013, 11:43:51 PM
Upon stator replacement, clip off the connector and hardwire the connection.
Getting a new stator from a 98 ZX-6R tested the one I had laying around for fit and it does fit. Grabbed a MOFEST rectifier from a 08 ZX-6R going to use a waterproof OEM connector for them.
That should remove some of the gremlins for a good long while.
I did the best thing of all and rode it! Btw it just hit 20k on Saturdays vintage ride.About a 1000 miles a month since February!
Good for you! The more you ride them, the better they run.
Went for an awesome ride on my Red and White Vision this long weekend on Vancouver Island.....well...was great up until I dropped her on some gravel just few blocks from my house...first time dropping a bike in over 20 years...the damage to the bike makes want to cry....lucky all I got was broken knuckle/finger...should really be counting my lucky stars.
Sigh. Still in Pouting mode.
Will ride mine again today.. same as yesterday and the day before. :)
Speaking of Stator's, I did finally replace mine this past weekend. The old one was fried. I believe running low on oil a few times contributed to its demise. However, it was on the bike when I got it a few years ago and is probably the original.
So far, it appears that the old oil leaks are gone now too.
What a wonderful feeling! ... To have a properly operating charging system and no oil leaks too. Woohoo!
So, I also replaced and relocated the R/R. I've been monitoring the temp and, it appears to dissipate heat quite well. So far, I've rarely seen the temp over 140 F. I have noticed though, that different locations on the R/R retain a significantly higher/lower temp reading.
The upper left corner seems to retain the higher temp. Now... after mentioning this, I'm wondering if the temp difference is relative to the aluminum plate I added for protection, as well as to direct air flow through the cooling fins. If so, it appears to be working, since the air flows into the R/R from the right side, possibly providing more cool air to this side. :D
Now, I will start looking into an oil cooler. Seems like a real good idea to me!
Anyway, here's a few pics of the relocated R/R.
js, I love your out of the box thinking! Well done! Your concept is an excellent candidate for a license plate/rear fender clean up idea that I've had for a long time.
Consider this: Remove your aluminum rr cover plate. Remove the factory license plate light and the vanity license plate carrier. Mount the license plate on the pad vacated by the license plate light using the screws that hold the pad onto the fender. Mount the plate so that its upper edge ends up right under tail light so that it is over, and covers, the rr. Use a Dremel tool to remove an approximate 2"X4" section from the underside of the tail light lens and glue a slightly larger piece of clear plastic in its place. Since the tail light is always on, it now serves dual functions, namely tail light and license plate light.
Hmmm.., That does sound interesting and would definitely clean the area up back there. Unfortunately, my Krauser rack is attached (for stability, I believe) per design, to the present location of the license plate.
... Of course, with additional thinking I'm sure a cure for that dilemma could be devised as well.
Thanks for the comment.
I'm actually quite pleased with the results of this mod. :)
Leave the bag bracing intact and use its attachment screws to hold the license plate in place over it. The plate will then cover the bracing. Or, leave the bracing untouched and use the two rr mounting bolts to attach the plate. The plate would still hide the bracing.
... Maybe a combination of the two, since the bag bracing gets its stability from the existing license plate location. Not sure it would provide as much support though.
I could always create a bracket to transfer the bracing directly to the fender, in place of the plate holder... Might even be stronger that way!
Hmmmm. I'll look into it with daylight, tomorrow.
Got the from the 98 zx6r installed, and the stator cover sealed with grey RTV. Also resealed the water pump cover as well. I am still waiting on the new RR to come in.
A local fellow is helping me with mine. My front cylinder is very low on compression (75). As luck would have it I have a spare engine with a "clunky" lower half but what appears to be a clean upper half and valves. I guess you could say I helped (in a minor way) in pulling the head off the front and inspecting it.
We hope to just lower the engine a bit on the bike and do the front cylinder work with it on the bike. Time will tell. We likely won't do this quickly. I am at his timing and he has 3 different bikes he's rebuilding in his garage.
I am very grateful for him. I am learning a ton and really starting to like my Vision
Ceeme24, before you remove any cylinder heads have you checked the valve clearances? They could be tight and that could cause low compression. I'm not saying this is the case but it might be. Definitely worth checking if it could prevent the necessity of head removal. You will need to check the valve clearances anyway.
Thank you for the reminder!
Broken Hand from my bike accident is feeling a much better and swelling has diminished.... so I tentatively got back to restoring the black 82'....finished stripping/polishing the remaining front fork...and my hand seems no worse for wear....guess I have no excuse now...so back at her tomorrow. New bearings for front and rear wheels arrived along with steering head bearings as well....once I get the seized front calliper piston out, I'll paint that up as well and re-install. Front end is almost ready for reassembly :-)
Today I started to replace the hoses on the carburetor and crankcase breathers. They were still original and not seal well. ??? It is problem to find here in the shops the thin-wall hoses (as are original), I'm going to use thick-wall fuel (or brake) hoses :(. When I disconnected YICS, it occurred to me to try for leaks. I was very surprised, there is both leaks. :o
http://gordis.rajce.idnes.cz/Yamaha_XZ550/#MOV00017.jpg
http://gordis.rajce.idnes.cz/Yamaha_XZ550/#MOV00017.jpg
I rode last year more than 4000 km, XZ started well and had normal smooth idle... So I will repair it, as it is described in Lucky's web.
Flushed the cooling system... again. She still runs really flipping hot but she is running.
Did you burp the system?
Yup. She just runs hot. Rad is not plugged. I temped the whole rad looking for a cold spot too, running about 210 to 220 everywhere on the rad I probed with a thermocouple. Running her a little lean on the coolant mixture (70/30 water/coolant) to help since I never see freezing temps with the bike. I am gonna try a water wetter type additive this week to see how she does with that. She has a 180* thermostat in it thats almost brand new. She has always run this hot even when I rebuilt her back in 09, in the winter she never gets above 1/2 while moving but in the summer she sits around the 7/8ths mark while underway.
Mine seems to run cooler with water wetter...
And, did great in Mojave Desert last September as well. No temp issues, at all.
Still monitoring the relocated R/R temp... The weather hasn't been as hot lately but, through various riding scenarios, the temp has stayed well below 120f. Typically its under 100. I can touch it without burning my hand.
Unfortunately, I don't have any temps recorded from the original location but I know it gets damn hot. Too hot to touch, that's for sure.
clean the terminals on the sender unit, they will make for false reading
Hi.
I have 3 running visions thanks to Lou..I had steering head bearing/front wheel bearing replaced.Adjusted valves.Replaced speedo/tach all on black bike.Yellow bike has been a challenge..Cleaned carbs..por-15 the tank.Secured lower fairing as it was not attached from Lou's.Fork brace.Replaced speedo/tach.Lowered front fork tubes an inch..Girl friend found it a little tall. ;D Low compression on back cylinder..Not sure how long bike has sat..Trying to release rings with some oil additives.Runs ok after idle..Red bike is running great but is not on the road..If I cannot get yellow motor to work properly I may transfer the red bike motor to it and repair the other as a back up for both black and yellow bike.We will ride the yellow bike for a little longer to see if comes back.. I replaced 83 to 82 bars on all 3 bikes..Have 3 sets of low bars and clip on's/engine guard/luggage racks not being used..If interested.
Quote from: supervision on June 06, 2013, 04:17:40 AM
clean the terminals on the sender unit, they will make for false reading
They are clean and the reading is accurate. I have verified that with both a IR noncontact temp gun and a K-type thermocouple probe. Everywhere on the rad is 210 to 220 like I said this has been going on since 2009. Now when is cool outside say in the 80's and below it will stay right in the middle of the temp gauge going down the road but when its say 110* plus and air temps on the road are pushing 130* its always at 7/8 all the way up to the red mark.
I have cleaned the cooling systems over 8 times (every 6 months or so for 3 years plus a few more random ones), replaced the thermostat, had the raditator boiled out, changed the coolant dozens of times I think at this point, inspected the water pump for issues (none found) and now I am running a water wetter type product in a 70/30 water/coolant mixture, and that combo had knocked about 10* to 15* off the temps. I am starting to think this bike just will not run cool no matter what I do when its 110* plus outside.
Based on my experience I don't understand how Visions make a go of it in hot climates. Mine is much like you describe in that it doesn't like hot weather. When I first got mine it would act up in hot weather and act very much like what Munkyfistfight describes in his post "High-speed problem". Running in traffic would see the gage at 3/4 and the fan would come on. Rather than dropping the temps any appreciable amount, the fan would merely keep the gage temp climbing further.
Long high speed runs on the highway where it gets plenty of air movement through the radiator wouldn't keep the needle from climbing either. Getting of the highway onto surface streets I noticed it ran very poorly as if not getting fuel. Often it would stall at the first red light and restarting was difficult. Running at a moderate speed for a while would see it eventually "normalize" and become responsive again. Stopping to let it cool off would help as well.
Just curious, but when you put the new thermostat in did you put the little air bleed jiggler at the top? It has to be at the top or it won't get all the air out.
Jeff
Yup drilled the hole out and made sure that the notch in the gasket lines up with the hole. :)
Quote from: Rikugun on June 06, 2013, 07:22:36 PM
Based on my experience I don't understand how Visions make a go of it in hot climates. Mine is much like you describe in that it doesn't like hot weather. When I first got mine it would act up in hot weather and act very much like what Munkyfistfight describes in his post "High-speed problem". Running in traffic would see the gage at 3/4 and the fan would come on. Rather than dropping the temps any appreciable amount, the fan would merely keep the gage temp climbing further.
Long high speed runs on the highway where it gets plenty of air movement through the radiator wouldn't keep the needle from climbing either. Getting of the highway onto surface streets I noticed it ran very poorly as if not getting fuel. Often it would stall at the first red light and restarting was difficult. Running at a moderate speed for a while would see it eventually "normalize" and become responsive again. Stopping to let it cool off would help as well.
This is exactly what I see happening, I am about to hit up a custom rad shop to see if they can build me a new rad with enough cooling capacity for the desert. With the following changes I have had some success keeping it running here in the 120* temps. Change to a 16 psi cap, cleaning the cooling system to within an inch of its life, using a water wetter product and running the cooling mixture at 70/30 water to coolant.
I would be very tempted to do an oil cooler with things running that warm.
Jeff
Quote from: jefferson on June 06, 2013, 07:47:23 PM
I would be very tempted to do an oil cooler with things running that warm.
Jeff
I am debating between that and a bigger rad. I am worried about over cooling the oil in the cold months.
I would do it and then fashion some kind of cover for it to block the flow of air when it cools off. It would be interesting also to find out how hot the crankcase is running. Somewhere around the drain plug should show a pretty accurate temp that would relate to the oil.
Jeff
Another thing you might consider is replacing the straight sections of radiator hose with aluminum tubing. This would give the coolant a little more surface area to shed some heat. The ideal thing would be to have the entire hose formed out of aluminum with all the bends. There would be more places for leaks to occur, but the heat shedding ability might be worth it.
You might be able to confirm what I found on my bike. The rear cyl. runs about 20 degrees cooler than the front. I put this down to a higher flow rate of coolant through the rear cyl. You would need to measure on the side of each head away from the cam chain so you are actually measuring the side with coolant behind the metal.
Jeff
An over ride switch for the rad' fan does help...it is an easy but effective mod ;)
8) ....... TIGER ....... 8)
In October '99, during a 5000 mile round trip from Houston TX to SoCal, I was in the Mohave Desert with an estimated temp. of 105 F. The '83 V was heavily loaded for long term touring and camping. The odometer was showing approx. 70k miles at the time. Because of the isolated environment, excellent road condition, and just because I could do it, I took the speed up to an indicated 9k rpm and held it there. The temp. gauge started out at about 2/3s of its range. I continually monitored the gauges' position. As I suspected it would, the gauge slowly began to show increasing engine temp. After about 6 miles into the test the needle finally touched the red zone. I immediately dropped down to an indicated 50 mph and kept on going. The needle immediately stopped climbing and then slowly dropped back to to its' previous 2/3 position. It took about 20 minutes to get there. The bike never showed any signs of distress. The bike cooling system was and remains OEM with the exception of replacing 2 water pump seals.
I have found the stock V cooling system to be completely adequate and trouble free all during my 29 years of ownership and operation and have always considered it to be one of the most trouble and maintenance free systems on the bike. Never the less, I will say that hot weather and heavy traffic can make for drivability concerns. However, the bike has never actually failed to run under such conditions.
As an aside, one of the symptoms of blown head gaskets, among other things, is hot running.
There was an interesting discussion recently about the benefits of waterless - no boil - coolants. If you missed that post, have a look at:
http://ridersofvision.net/rovforum/index.php?topic=14719.msg134674#msg134674
I got an interesting result last night. Leave the house at 715 pm on a cold bike, first time she was started yesterday. Do a ten mile ride to the mall to meet for a coffee date. Speed 85+, ambient temps 106 to 108*, RPMS 6.5 to 7.5K gets to 7/8ths really quick and stays there.
Ok date goes well and we end up talking till midnight. Say goodnight. Start the bike and let it warm up to 1/2 mark while gearing up. Run home, take the same route but now the ambient temp is in the 80* to 90* range, speeds 85+, RPMS 6.5 - 7.5K, temp drops as I get on the freeway back to the 1/2 mark then stays between 1/2 and 2/3s even while doing 6.5 to 7.5K. Only hits 7/8ths when I am sitting stopped at the light to turn to go to my neighborhood.
After all of the cleaning, burping, changing the cap to 16psi, putting coolant additives in, and running it 70/30 water coolant I think she will be fine this summer. I am also convinced that the cooling system was not meant for the extreme heat of living in phoenix with temps regularly seeing 110+. At this point its going to be a new custom rad, lots of custom rad shops in phoenix go figure, or some kind oil cooler.
TL;DR
Speed 85+, RPMS 6.5 to 7.5K, air temp 106 - 108 = 7/8ths gauge
Speed 85+, RPMS 6.5 to 7.5K, air temp 80 - 90 = 1/2 to 2/3rds gauge
Quote from: QBS on June 06, 2013, 11:53:36 PM
As an aside, one of the symptoms of blown head gaskets, among other things, is hot running.
The thought has crossed my mind more than once. Had friend with a pinhole leak on a 4runner between the combustion chamber and the water jacket did this same kind of stuff but it would boil over eventually. I did use a block tester http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Tools-Garage-and-Equipment/Block-Tester/_/N-25dh (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Tools-Garage-and-Equipment/Block-Tester/_/N-25dh) to see if there was any kind of issue, at the time 2010 to 2011ish there were no gases found.
Quote from: sunburnedaz on June 07, 2013, 12:16:39 PM
At this point its going to be a new custom rad, lots of custom rad shops in phoenix go figure,
LOL ;D ;D They are interesting results and going in the right direction too! Nice work. :)
3 years ago i was in Bullhead and road to Havasu. Temp was 118 . Vision ran in the middle of the scale , never went higher . Bike vapor locked 4 times causing me to sit in the sun waiting for the gas in the carbs to stop boiling.
I rode through Salem OR. in the summer of '03 .And then up in to the Cascades . I rode the hell out of it as i was doing tests on oil temp. Vision stayed in the centre of the scale . Temp in Salem was 106.
You are trying to do a patch with the bigger radiator , you need to find the problem, which is not that the radiator it too small!
Quote from: Rick G on June 08, 2013, 05:04:36 PM
3 years ago i was in Bullhead and road to Havasu. Temp was 118 . Vision ran in the middle of the scale , never went higher . Bike vapor locked 4 times causing me to sit in the sun waiting for the gas in the carbs to stop boiling.
I rode through Salem OR. in the summer of '03 .And then up in to the Cascades . I rode the hell out of it as i was doing tests on oil temp. Vision stayed in the centre of the scale . Temp in Salem was 106.
You are trying to do a patch with the bigger radiator , you need to find the problem, which is not that the radiator it too small!
How many RPMs were you running? I never have the vapor lock problem no matter how hot it gets. She never gets too hot to run after I updated everything I can. I am all ears if someone has a new idea on what it could be. No air in the system, new thermostat, 70/30 water coolant, water wetter, 16psi cap, and checked for evidence of a head gasket leak.
Rick, is it possible your gage or sending unit contacts were compromised giving an inaccurate reading? It seems unusual to expect an older Vision to indicate only half gage in those temps or suffer the effects of vapor lock while only indicating half gage.
Sunburned, it does seem like your efforts have made your bike able to sustain those desert temps and continue to run without a custom radiator. If you end up going that route anyway, it will be interesting to see if the gage indicates cooler under similar temps. This would also assume everything else is left as is i.e. coolant type and blend. Does your bike have the plastic shroud/air dam in place behind the front valve cover?
sun, have you tried, or considered running with no thermostat just to see what difference that would make?
For what it's worth -which may not be much- I live in Phoenix, and my Vision also runs at about 7/8 of the way to red.
If it is cool weather outside (80F - 90F), she typically only gets there after ten or fifteen minutes at 60mph or greater.
If it is 90F or more, such as at midday, she'll reach the 7/8 mark while idling in the garage, and stays there without rising during the entire time I have her on the road. After I shut the engine off, cools down to the lowest reading within an hour.
I haven't put her through a lot of hard riding and I've only made one round trip on the freeway across the entire valley, but if it's midday it takes no time for me to hit that mark on the temp gauge.
I've got a new thermostat, just finished giving the entire coolant system a thorough cleaning, and my fan seems to operate just as it should. The gauge never rises above the 7/8 mark, and the bike doesn't show any signs of overheating that I am aware of.
I'm of the opinion that as long as I can find nothing broken or harmful to the proper operating condition of the bike, a high reading is acceptable.
The '83 manual says that the entire green range of the temp. gauge is available for normal operation. Touch the red zone and it's bad ju ju time.
If you suspect overheating check the over flow catch bottle for evidence. It would be fuller than normal if over heating.
Engine temp and vapor lock are two distinct problems . My XZ has a '83 style fairing, with the baffle in front of the carbs . Even so their is poor air circulation under the tank causing the vapor lock problem. The only time in the 10 years I have ridden it , that the engine temp has climbed to the red is in OR! when I was climbing in to the Cascades in July , while running the hell out of it cooled down as soon as I slowed down. It happened in AZ while climbing out of the Colorado river valley, up Boundary cone road towards Oatman in august . It has water wetter in it. As usual I was not sparring the horses.!
Quote from: Rick G on June 11, 2013, 02:55:22 AM
Engine temp and vapor lock are two distinct problems . My XZ has a '83 style fairing, with the baffle in front of the carbs . Even so their is poor air circulation under the tank causing the vapor lock problem. The only time in the 10 years I have ridden it , that the engine temp has climbed to the red is in OR! when I was climbing in to the Cascades in July , while running the hell out of it cooled down as soon as I slowed down. It happened in AZ while climbing out of the Colorado river valley, up Boundary cone road towards Oatman in august . It has water wetter in it. As usual I was not sparring the horses.!
Engine temp and vapor lock may be two distinct problems but some would argue related as cause and effect. If it were not for the water wetter, you may have felt more of the effect from the cause . :)
Engine temp has no affect on vapor lock . I have had it occur many times on engines that were not over heated. Its a carb problem , as well as a fuel line or fuel pump problem . On bikes it is mostly a carb problem, with the gas boiling in the float chamber.
Actually i could detect no useful effect from using the water wetter.
Vapor lock seems less prevalent on fuel injected engines.
I drained the rear axle fluid and replaced, and also changed oil and filter. Running very well, it was a long winter getting it ready. I would like to thank all the members for their advice and guidance. If not for the fellow members this project would have caused me to pull more hair out of my head than I did. I am trying to attach a picture of the bike now that it is done, do not know if it will work but I will try.
Very nice! Now you can enjoy the fruits of your labor.
Jeff
You have done a marvelous job!! You should be proud of your effort! Congratulations!
Nice now go ride it and enjoy it!
PHM: Hmm, she looks very cool with the white parts, especially the white inner site of fairing. Nice contrast.
Last week I connected a 12V plug, changed carbs hoses and added fuel filter, secured air filter on the proper place and started with repairing of YICS.
Got rid of my YICS a couple of weeks ago. Happy bunny ever since. Didn't notice any change to performance. One less leak to worry about.
There are some great looking restoration jobs on this list! Congratulations to you all!!
Quote from: Rick G on June 11, 2013, 03:01:02 PM
Engine temp has no affect on vapor lock . I have had it occur many times on engines that were not over heated. Its a carb problem , as well as a fuel line or fuel pump problem .
Yeah, you're probably right.
I do like the red and white color combo on the Vision. :)
Jirick, Thank you for showing us your very clean and thoughtful V. Love the inline fuel filter and fuel line, especially the hose to filter attachements. Little personal touches abound. Looks like a lot of you and your love in that bike.
Thank you for your compliment. I really love this great bike. It was love at first sight. QBS, look please to your PM.
Started the old girl up after a couple of weeks today. Not too happy being woken up and she took a long time to catch. I had noticed that the idle had been particularly lumpy and that the enrichener hadn't been very effective. After poking around a bit while she warmed up, I discovered a hole in the vacuum cap where the old YICS intake had been. Problem solved. Happy biker.
Yesterday I tore into the cooling system again. LOL no not to track down the over heating issue but to fix a o-ring on the coolant tube that started to leak. She is back together and running again.
Two things - first was replaced the rider footpegs with these cheapo aftermarket Kawasaki reproduction pieces. I got the idea from sunburnedaz so thanks! ;) They have a more modern look to them and the old rubbers were coming apart on a second replacement set of OEM styled ones.
The other thing I did was back flushed the cooling system after running it with a white vinegar/CLR/distilled water concoction. I let it sit overnight, drained it then back flushed the system. When I went to remove the thermostat prior to flushing I found something odd - there was no thermostat installed. :o Hmmm, no wonder I was having trouble developing engine temp in the cooler weather.....
Rik, was it you that was exhibiting concern about your bike having a tendency to run hot?
Yup, although since I've joined this forum I've learned I'm not alone in that regard. :)
Assuming that you install a thermostat, it will be interesting to see what changes occur in the operating temperature.
That has been my thought exactly. ;) This will only be my third full season on this bike. The 2011 season it died in September then sat til the spring. So last spring (amongst other things) I changed the coolant but didn't disturb the thermostat. That fall/winter season saw more rides in cooler weather. I started to suspect the thermostat was stuck open when it took forever to get any engine heat but this didn't seem to jive with a tendency to run hot in the summer. The parts came in yesterday and I'll start work this weekend but due to other projects it may not get out for long rides for a few more weeks. It should be good and hot by then so the true nature of things shall be revealed.
Rik, this may seem counter-intuative. Possibly the reason that your bike has been running warm/hot is that, because it had no thermostat to slow the flow of coolent through the radiator, the coolent couldn't hang around in the radiator long enough long to to transfer its' BTUs to the atmosphere and therefore it (the coolent) stayed hot.
That's the notion I'm clinging to at the moment. :-\ That, and with no thermostat in place there is no distinction between a path through the radiator or the by-pass hose other than path of least resistance. The problem is, the argument that gives me hope for one season is contrary to what I've observed in the other season. :( That's not to say I can't also imagine a scenario that helps both seasons and that's the one I'm clinging to at the moment. Like I said, I'll have to wait and see.
Mainly just looked at it. A local gent is replacing burned valves in the front cylinder for me and I hope to work with him as he cleans and adjusts the carbs.
(http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa337/ceme24/null_zps38e3b457.jpg)
(http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa337/ceme24/null_zpsce77ccab.jpg)
(http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa337/ceme24/null_zps6825697f.jpg)
These are the replacement valves.
Looks like you've got a very nice and Clean bike there. The existance of the braided, stainless steel brake line is an excellent sign. The shop also appears to be quite up to the task. It will be interesting to see if your friend does the rear cylinder with the engine in the frame. Hope it continues to go well with you.
Quote from: QBS on July 11, 2013, 11:47:58 PM
It will be interesting to see if your friend does the rear cylinder with the engine in the frame.
No need (yet) - back in may ceme24 posted the compression was low on the front only.
Glad to see you haven't given up on your Vision and good luck with the work. :)
Now it's time for a trivia quiz: In the middle photo if you look through the frame where the front cylinder should be there is a bike in the background. What is it? Hint - it's Italian and has it's roots in early aviation. :D
VERY good eye there rikigun!!
I won't play in the trivia since I was fortunate enough to be standing next to that beautiful piece of history a few days ago.
I know this is a vision forum, but next time I go to work on my bike I will take some pictures of that Italian gem and if its ok post them here.
She runs and is in phenomenal shape
That's a rare bird. Must be some kind of shop to have one of those sitting around. I wish their bikes were doing better in World supersport.
Good eye indeed! '70s MV Agusta, probably 750cc. The finned ring and pinion housing for the shaft drive is a big clue. Rode one once. Thinking I was doing 80 mph while the speedo indicated 105 mph got my attention.
Today I drilled and mounted two gas take off points in the exhaust ready for the gas analyser when tuning the Weber, cylinder by cylinder........ both as inconspicuous as possible. One of them I may probably use as a vacuum take off point for sucking air out of the crankcase, but that project is still a little further down the line as I am still waiting on a non return valve.
I also ran spanners over all available bolts to good effect and eyeballed up the possibilities for a cable operated rear brake so I can move the lever to a more suitable position to suit the rear sets.
The bike is still sitting on the dyno............. waiting ;D ;D ;D 8)
That must have been difficult drilling into that new custom exhaust! :'( Ah well, it's for the greater good! This valve you are waiting for I'm guessing is a check valve of sorts? Is it designed specifically for tolerance to exhaust gas or just happens to be from another application?
Rikugun
it is an off the shelf, (when available), valve that is used by the hot rodders specifically for evacuating crankcases. The whole setup is going to cost me maybe NZ$120. That's very cheap horsepower however much or or not, however I note it's working very well on one of our 999S race bikes
The gas take off points I have put on the downhill side of the pipes so as to not destroy any photo op's for any casual pavement creeper that happens to be idling by wondering what on earth they are looking at............. ;D ;D ;D
Replaced 30 year old yics lines with fuel injector lines.Replaced fuel line and added inline filter all on black bike.Idles fine and power is good.Did a compression test on red and yellow bike and found them reading around just under 100.Both idle with plenty of power.I had read in the archives that throttle should be held open during compression test.If so what is the change in readings?My tests are with no throttle.Enjoy reading on site for hours and appreciate learning from the experience of others. Thanks
c/p from jasonm
Re: Low compression in front cylinder
« Reply #7 on: May 18, 2008, 12:02:05 PM »
the slow cranking it likely oil soaked or worn brushes. Low compression in the front is MOST likely tight valves. This does happen. And proper adjustment is required. Using the proper tool makes it easier. Are you doing the compression test w/throttle open AS YOU SHOULD? to allow all the possible air in the cylinder...this is often forgotten. The smallest possibility is a bad head gasket.
QuoteI had read in the archives that throttle should be held open during compression test.If so what is the change in readings?
The readings may be higher with the throttle open.
Summer has arrived in the UK (1st time in 5 years ??? ) so time to make some adjustments.
I cut the original hazey screen down to a minimum painted the back black and polished the front.
Now hopefully I should get some cool breeze, well until summer ends in a couple of weeks :)
Pulled my carbs off and cleaned them again today, and took a closer look at various problems the bike's been presenting lately. My accelerator pump is in awful shape so I'll be buying a Keyster kit before long.
Does anyone know of a source for accelerator pump diaphragms aside from the Keyster carb kit? I've already bought nearly everything the kit comes with, and from better manufacturers.
lexx790: I just noticed you're from Hayle, Cornwall. It's a small world! I've spent a night in Hayle while backpacking through England. Your part of the world is gorgeous! Hayle had the nicest hostel I've visited, as well as the best pasty shop, though I can't remember the names. I still have a Nalgene bottle I bought before leaving town for Trencrom hill. I bet it'd be a blast to ride the roads out your way!
Quote from: Fuzzlewump on July 15, 2013, 12:29:55 AM
Pulled my carbs off and cleaned them again today, and took a closer look at various problems the bike's been presenting lately. My accelerator pump is in awful shape so I'll be buying a Keyster kit before long.
Does anyone know of a source for accelerator pump diaphragms aside from the Keyster carb kit? I've already bought nearly everything the kit comes with, and from better manufacturers.
lexx790: I just noticed you're from Hayle, Cornwall. It's a small world! I've spent a night in Hayle while backpacking through England. Your part of the world is gorgeous! Hayle had the nicest hostel I've visited, as well as the best pasty shop, though I can't remember the names. I still have a Nalgene bottle I bought before leaving town for Trencrom hill. I bet it'd be a blast to ride the roads out your way!
I'm glad you enjoyed my neck of the woods, the pasty shop was Phelps. People on the forum are now wondering what a pasty is :)
There are great roads here as many were just expanded from old tracks through the counrtyside and so are rarely straight.
Have a look at this youtube clip which shows my alternative road home but in reverse. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1dPjSCRQ624 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1dPjSCRQ624) I don't travel this way to work as in the morning the road has too many rabbits on it. In the clip I live on the left turn at the roundabout at 1min 17.
There are a couple pasty shops here in Grass Valley, California. They are the cultural remnants of the Cornish miners that worked the hard rock gold mines in the area.
There's one here in Phoenix that is owned by a Cornish man. I hear they're the real deal but I have yet to try them. Those things are delicious! Perfect hiking food, too- a little goes a long way and they stay hot until you get to your destination. Mmmm, pasties. :P
Hey lexx790, did you happen to make it to Goodwood Race Track, this past weekend for the annual bike event?? Nice to see you and your friends interest in the small bore scoots.
Quote from: supervision on July 16, 2013, 10:03:30 AM
Hey lexx790, did you happen to make it to Goodwood Race Track, this past weekend for the annual bike event?? Nice to see you and your friends interest in the small bore scoots.
Goodwood is a motoring event not just bikes, I haven't been to it yet but its one for me to do.
A rare opportunity happened here, the sun shone, so we headed a few miles away to the beach, and took a pasty with us, was bleddy ansome.
Ok may hay while the sun is out
Just got a bead blast cabinet from Harbor Freight. So excited to start blasting everything aluminum on this bike. could never stand the poor aluminum on these bikes. you can paint the bike and detail the thing. but you always have this big grey, blotchy motor hanging out from below. I just started with the foot peg brackets. I ground off the poor casting marks around the outer edge. the way their done looks like some one glued the front and the back together and didn"t care
about the alignment. So now nice and smooth.
That looks really nice. Keep up the good work. I always try to remove those parting lines too.
Jeff
What are your plans to keep them looking that way?
Paint them Semi Flat Black. I'm going for a different look than what I had.
I ran a honda 2 pot caliper , before i added the '83 brake set up . The 2 pot caliper actually worked better untill I used a set of sintered iron pads , on the '83 front end. They were hard on the discs though.
I'm pretty sure Sunburnedaz has it now.
today I managed to get a bit of tuning time on the dyno as we worked the Weber into shape, surprisingly it needed bigger mains, up to 1.58 at the moment.
Had to end early due to a Dyno issue and lack of time but I will get another chance at some later point, however I did see a 23% increase in horse power compared to last time several years ago, so we are on the right track.
Wow! So you are up around 80 hp?
well not really.......
these machines at best only ever produced around 64hp at the crank according to Yamaha and there are more losses through a shaft drive than through a chain..........
So the real world stuff:
this machine was tested first when it was stock standard, euro gearing doing several runs in different gears, and the best we could get was 51.3hp at the rear wheel and this is on a par with other XZ's.
We did it again under the same parameters and today it returned a bit over 63hp at the rear wheel and this with some slippage on the drum (tire is stuffed), and no chance to refine the top end....
so potential is looking good for further developments, they are just going to have to wait a bit now, I am lucky to have got this amount of time so far.
I'm jealous. I need some hot cams
....... and let us not forget a large diameter exhaust, and a Weber to feed it..... ;D
This is the first time I have heard the bike without being on it, in action, with the new exhaust on, right the way through to 10,000rpm (for now).
I have to say it has a gorgeous note. All the way from a low deep throb at low revs to what others have termed as being like some sort of race/track car (when I whip past them on the open road,) and all without it being tooo loud and offensive 8)
I'm a fan. Yes I'm a FAN!!! ;D ;D ;D ;D
Approx. 23% increase?
Yeah, stop being so modest Treedragon. On those figures I make nearer a 25% increase over your previously measured output at the rear wheel. Fan-bloomin-tastic!
my logic..... it was an increase of, thus 51.3 plus 23% = 63.099
Yep, sorry. My bad. I read that as 64hp at the wheel, not 63hp.
Therefore 63-51.3=11.7hp increase. 11.7/51.3 = 22.8% increase in power. Brill!
Treedragon, that does sound impressive. Even without the benefit ok knowing the dyno numbers I'm sure the visceral feedback is substantial. Of course, you get used the new power fairly quickly and then need more.... ;) :)
Quote from: roro on July 22, 2013, 08:14:32 PM
Rik, can you share the useful tips or are they secret?
No secret, I'd be happy to share with anyone interested although stress every setup is different depending on components used. :)
Im very interested. A separate topic perhaps. I'll chime in with descriptions and measurements of my Gold NOS Brembo calipers, R1 rotors, Goodridge stainless hoses, (all sitting in my parts boxes) and pictures of course of the finished result after I've absorbed all the hints and tips.
Quote from: Rick G on July 22, 2013, 11:52:33 PM
I ran a honda 2 pot caliper , before i added the '83 brake set up . The 2 pot caliper actually worked better untill I used a set of sintered iron pads , on the '83 front end. They were hard on the discs though.
I'm pretty sure Sunburnedaz has it now.
I dont think so. I dont remember seeing it.
I added semi ridged hard bags off a 05 Victory kingpin. I will try to get pics of the setup tonight. Life has been so busy, replaced motors in a 08 Kawi 250 and an 07 GSXR 750 and now i have a Buell in my garage with a no start issue and busted fork seals.
Hi Sunburn , I'll look in the shed , I f i have it, its yours next trip.
So here are the side bags.
(http://i.imgur.com/uhWkB2Xl.jpg) (http://imgur.com/uhWkB2X)
(http://i.imgur.com/fqXEogYl.jpg) (http://imgur.com/fqXEogY)
(http://i.imgur.com/eZx4tvgl.jpg) (http://imgur.com/eZx4tvg)
(http://i.imgur.com/LsFv2W5l.jpg) (http://imgur.com/LsFv2W5)
Outstanding, and so many nice details to boot. Love the round headlight and checker pattern. Removing the dedicated licence plate light subtly cleans up the rear nicely.
Something about that first ride after a long break and especially after having done restorative work. Great work! :D
I too like the white on black checkerboard. The rise on the handlebars seems to fit the bike nicely. Interesting front turn signal and horn location too.
That looks very cool, Ceme24. Checkered flag motif and other white accents really fit with the round headlight.
Tell us about what you have bolted in where the YICS box usually goes.
The previous owner said he thought something was wrong with it so be capped it off. I suppose I should check it out ...
Looks like he replaced the YICS with the horn. If you try to do the YICS bubble test with the horn, things wont go so well for you
Hi everyone - good morning to you all!
I have made one introductory post on being a new rider and I am proud to say that the Vision is my first bike. Yesterday, after leaving the bike in my parents shed for roughly 2 1/2 months, my brother in law and I took out the bike and did some preparatory work.
We took the gas tank off and sprayed some started fluid in the carbs and we also jump started it. I was able to ride it around the block in 2nd gear, but the guy I purchased it off of said that it needs to have the carburetor cleaned out.
This weekend the bike goes into the shop for a carb cleaning, inspection and possibly a repair job on an exhaust. My brother in law thinks there is a crack in one of the pipes, the bike was incredibly loud!
Very psyched to get it up and running. My rider safety course begins on Aug 20th! Shortly afterwards I will be biking into the office!
The previous owner kept the bike in the garage and road it off and on for 16 years. Having said that, is there anything else I should ask the shop to take a look at?
Thanks!
Welcome to the forum Ghostrider. What part of the world are you from? Good luck with getting your bike up to shipshape condition.
I would fit an inline petrol filter and thorough inspection of electrical connections. Change oil and coolant. What are the tyres like, worn evenly or squared off? Get shop to check suspension as well given the fact you are a new rider you may not distinguish between a good/bad set-up.
Start thinking about a replacement exhaust system. You'll probably need one. Find out as much of the bikes' upgrade history as you can. You'll probably be having related questions soon. Anticipate the "shop" being unable to ge the bike running as you would like for it to. Most bike techs weren't born when the V was new.
Quote from: QBS on August 12, 2013, 10:39:08 AM
Start thinking about a replacement exhaust system. You'll probably need one. Find out as much of the bikes' upgrade history as you can. You'll probably be having related questions soon. Anticipate the "shop" being unable to ge the bike running as you would like for it to. Most bike techs weren't born when the V was new.
I am not surprised to hear that. Do you have any recommended vendors for replica exhaust systems?
Quote from: the oldstuff on August 12, 2013, 08:33:26 AM
Welcome to the forum Ghostrider. What part of the world are you from? Good luck with getting your bike up to shipshape condition.
I would fit an inline petrol filter and thorough inspection of electrical connections. Change oil and coolant. What are the tyres like, worn evenly or squared off? Get shop to check suspension as well given the fact you are a new rider you may not distinguish between a good/bad set-up.
I am in the Philadelphia, PA suburbs, a half hour or so away from Center City. I am concerned about the wiring system but I dont really have any electrical skills at all to fix it, in the event that something broke.
Tires are in great shape, the PO had recently purchased new tires and then his wife made him sell the bike. His loss is my gain in this case.
I will ask about the suspension too - thank you for looking out.
The front turn signals look cool , but are in a bad location they should be located where other drivers can see them . The stock system comes to mind.
Mac exhaust systems are reasonably priced and used ones show up on this forum occasionally . There loud to some ears , to mine they sound great , with lots of authority. look in the swap section of this forum for leads. There are a set of predator pipes for sale there . All stainless steel and gorgeous
I bought my vision a new jacket. Iain delivered it by hand from the UK.
Bloody HELL
Im away 5 minutes and i get back and hes now called Prophet of Doom. Is that the same as CAT Stevens now being called Yusuf Islam.
Iain
NZ
:police:
35 miles after the front cylinder valve job it started "missing" and then just dumping fuel out of a relief at the bottom of the bike. One of the carbs is overflowing...or that's the way it appears...
Runs fine under heavy acceleration. Missing at a constant speed. Dumping fuel at idle.
Didn't make it home. Too much fuel being lost and ended up not being able to get it moving from a stop.
Or maybe a vacuum leak...I limped it home after it cooled off. It was still leaking badly and missing. When I got it home the leak was worse. It still leaked after shut off, but if I put the fuel switch to the reserve it would stop. It kept leaking even with the fuel switch in off. It only stopped when in reserve.
I will spend some time with it tomorrow
Sounds to me like a stuck float.
Jeff, I think your right!
I'm tired of looking at the shark fairing and thinking I'm going to put that thing on my bike?
It just doesnt look right. So I hacked off the back flanks. now it looks like the lines flow better with the bike.
Some might think "Why did you cut up a shark fairing?" and I say, "why not."
I kind of like it. It would be nice to see it on a bike, but the fairing just sitting there does look better.
Jeff
Last time I rode there was an awful screech from the speedometer. Lubing the cable did not cure. So today i pulled out the speed0.
Pretty fascinating to see how it works.
The problem was not lack of lubrication.
The threaded piece that the cable screws into is press fitted into the frame of the speedometer. This had worked loose, allowing the magnet ring to scrape against the driven ring.
I cleaned things up as well as I could, and worked some epoxy into the joint. Keeping my fingers crossed that this will hold for a while, but I think it is asking quite a bit of the adhesive. I may supplement this with a fillet of JB Weld, though that will require enlarging the hole in the plastic case.
pullshocks, thanks for posting. Something else to keep in mind when addressing speedo noises. ;)
NITROPOLIS, I'm with Jeff - looks good and I'm really curious to see it painted and installed. Please update when you do. :D
Well I didn't do anything on the bike, but I did have it taken to the shop for carb work, inspection and a general tune up. Looking forward to getting the shop's estimate and even more so, looking forward to cruising around soon!
Got my top end gasket set in the mail, so today I pulled the engine out of the frame and set it aside to begin disassembly. I'm off work for about a week (woohoo!!) so there's plenty of time to go through everything cautiously and thoroughly.
I have a strong feeling this top-end cleanup is going to fix my carb tuning issues. At any rate it'll have to be at least another step closer to having a nice running V. I'm excited to see inside the heart of this bike!
Quote from: ghostrider on August 21, 2013, 02:26:23 PM
Looking forward to getting the shop's estimate and even more so, looking forward to cruising around soon!
These two things don't necessarily go together
Painted my fork legs. Went to reassemble, and found that Pyramid Parts had sold me the seal kit for a "94 Aprilia trials bike. Frustrating, after waiting 2 weeks for the Pyramid kit to arrive.
Turns out the kit I needed was on the row below in their listings, and the chat representative made a cut and paste error. Maybe their error had to do with the earthquake that was going on there.
I hope it doesn't take 2 weeks for them to get the replacement kit here.
This is a good time to point out that the oil seal size is 35x48x8, not 35x45x8 as stated in some threads here on the forum.
Today I bought a XZ400 TCI box on auction for $1.50.
The seller was a bit miffed, he'd seen the $472 one on ebay and put it on $1 reserve to encourage bidding.
Wow, that's a zinger. He should have set the opening price a bit higher if he . . . . oh, never mind.
I'm pleased you got a good deal, assuming it's functional. ;)
On 9/14, I finally got my bike back from the shop. Aside from the coolant leak, it is running in superb condition.
I was able to ride about 80 miles on saturday. Most of them were from the dealership to my place, then I tacked on another 30 or so just familiarizing myself with the back roads.
Looking forward to the next ride. Does anyone have any advice on why these bikes like to run hot? At any stop light, I could watch the temperature gauge climb up to the H. Never went in the red, but I was happy to get moving again to bring the temp down...
Quote from: ghostrider on September 16, 2013, 09:22:50 AM
Does anyone have any advice on why these bikes like to run hot? At any stop light, I could watch the temperature gauge climb up to the H. Never went in the red, but I was happy to get moving again to bring the temp down...
If you look up some threads started by Sunburnedaz you will find a lot of discussion about the V running hot. He has done a great deal to get to the bottom of this one, check out his post "Cooling the desert V". Also, Lucky has modified his bike a bit to install an oil cooler. There are also some posts about that job and the results.
My Vision also runs very hot, but then again I am also located in the desert like Sunburned. It doesn't seem that everyone has this issue with their bike, though.
ghost, does your cooling fan ever come on? If not, there is your problem. If no, not difficult to diagnose or repair. A hot running V has an unusual problem. My experience with the V cooling system has shown it to be extremely trouble free. Except the one time that the inline fuse that services the fan failed. That fuse is located in the headlight wiring rats nest.
@QBS - yes my fan turns on. Knock on wood, the only thing I have experienced is increasing temperatures when I sit idle at intersections. Once I am up and running again, the bike performs flawlessly.
For any rider in the North East USA, how late into the year can you ride these bikes? I wasn't a fan of the shield/plastic flaring from a style stand point but I admin I like not having wind hit me directly.
I struggled with high engine temps for a while. The coolant and radiator passages looked clean but I changed the coolant anyway which seemed to help a little. Systematically eliminating vacuum leaks (dry cracked intake manifolds, YICS, throttle shaft seals, etc.) helped a little too. The following season I decided to flush the entire system - engine and radiator. First I drained everything including removing the cylinder drains. Then I moved on to removing the thermostat. After fighting a stripped screw head on the thermostat housing cover it finally came of to reveal....no thermostat :o. The PO had apparently eliminated the thermostat. :o In hindsight I should have checked this sooner - oops. :-[ :P Installing a thermostat made the biggest difference and it now runs much more consistent temps.
Quote from: ghostrider on September 17, 2013, 07:24:17 AM
For any rider in the North East USA, how late into the year can you ride these bikes? I wasn't a fan of the shield/plastic flaring from a style stand point but I admin I like not having wind hit me directly.
That's a good question but really depends on one's particular tolerance to cold and how much money one invests in gear - especially heated gear! Not much of a cold weather fan I can ride comfortably during the occasional nice days in early winter but am no hero. I think a fairing really helps BTW. I have the upper '83 fairing and it does a great job for the upper body. It did not come with the lowers so I made "wind deflectors" for seasonal use which help a lot for the legs.
Got the old girl back on the road after the winter lay-over. Haven't done much apart from a new rear brake switch and an overhaul of the starter motor and starter wiring. New heavy duty cables. Huge difference to starting and running. Sounds great.
Quote from: Rikugun on September 21, 2013, 09:30:17 AM
It did not come with the lowers so I made "wind deflectors" for seasonal use which help a lot for the legs.
Is "wind deflectors" a euphemism for chaps?
Quote from: ProphetOfDoom on October 06, 2013, 06:13:21 AM
Is "wind deflectors" a euphemism for chaps?
Oh you'd like that wouldn't you? ;) :D Actually no, they're polycarbonate and attach at the two factory 6 mm screw positions under the main fairing. The bottom attaches to the engine case guards. The front edge has an aluminum guide that catches the leading edge of the radiator shroud. They are admittedly awkward looking but very effective in deflecting cold air off the lower body and funneling all the heated air going through the radiator onto your legs. Probably a lot like the factory lowers but not as attractive....
Today I scrounged under the bench and got the YICS off the donor engine after I found the my bikes YICS leaked between chambers. I tested it and I have both the YICS leaking between chambers :(
I got one of them apart after I cleaned them inside with carb and brake cleaner (brake cleaner doesn't clean the muck as well as carb cleaner).
Cleaned the flanges and removed the nicks and reassembled with 3bond. Gave it a little test after an hour to find that it still leaked so pulled it apart again, cleaned it some more, checked with magnifiers for any cracking, didn't see any so closed it up again after coating the dividing wall and making sure the grooves were well filled. Screwed it and clamped it. No testing until tomorrow I suppose.
I've just been riding mine. The cool thing is after I rebuilt my starter and double o-ringed it, I don't have any annoying oil leaks either.
Double o-ring!? Details and/or pics?
Today, I reinstalled the carbies, mounted a temporary tank, started and ran the engine for about twenty minutes. Although it had been started last week and ran for less then a minute all up, having been laid up for the last 23 years (with the exception of five minutes engine run about five years ago), the engine fired up and ran without any hesitation.
Putting the carbies back on had me puzzled for a short time as when I when to re-attach the throttle cable, I found I couldn't move the throttles, they were hitting against something. It took a couple of unmounts and remounts before I discovered that the new boots had a height difference from the old ones and the throttle lever was hitting one of the bolt heads (see pic). A bit of a grinding has solved that :)
I used the "choke" for a little while until the engine had warmed and had to adjust the throttle stop to get a steady idle.
Am very pleased that it went as well as it has and tomorrow I'll be breaking out the balancer to sync the carbies.
Found the rear cylinder cam chain tensioner cover a bit loose so will be nipping it up before starting.
Quote from: hoverhead47 on October 06, 2014, 08:57:27 AM
Putting the carbies back on had me puzzled for a short time as when I when to re-attach the throttle cable, I found I couldn't move the throttles, they were hitting against something. It took a couple of unmounts and remounts before I discovered that the new boots had a height difference from the old ones and the throttle lever was hitting one of the bolt heads (see pic). A bit of a grinding has solved that :)
That's a new one to me. I don't recall anyone reporting this before. Were these NOS Yamaha manifolds or pattern parts?
Quote from: Rikugun on October 08, 2014, 08:45:49 AM
Quote from: hoverhead47 on October 06, 2014, 08:57:27 AM
Putting the carbies back on had me puzzled for a short time as when I when to re-attach the throttle cable, I found I couldn't move the throttles, they were hitting against something. It took a couple of unmounts and remounts before I discovered that the new boots had a height difference from the old ones and the throttle lever was hitting one of the bolt heads (see pic). A bit of a grinding has solved that :)
That's a new one to me. I don't recall anyone reporting this before. Were these NOS Yamaha manifolds or pattern parts?
www.ebay.com.au/itm/350656031791
Also it might have been something I didn't discover until I replaced the air box, that the carbies may have been cocked a little to that side. While I had pushed them home into grooves in the boots, it's possible that they may have been leaning a little and I didn't see or feel it. I thought it strange but couldn't see anything out of place.
Today I bought a helmet, MC insurance, unregistered vehicle permit and took my XZ around the estate for the first time in 17 years for a shake down run. So far front brakes are stuck else OK.
I've flushed out the old coolant and replaced it with waterless (not Evans).
I balanced the carbs and have a nice steady 1100 rpm idle. But there is a slight misfire from 3k to around 5.5k rpm and something a hint of a back fire on over run.
I suppose I'd better take out the plugs and read them. They are such a pain to get out though.
I've unmounted the callipers and given them a scrub to remove the crud on the pistons. They not so sticky now. Measured the temps of the disks after a 17 km run and they were only 36C.
I only have 45 days on the permit for this year and I don't want to waste them but am getting itchy to get out for a decent run.
Unregistered vehicle permit? Sounds very civilised. Is that a bit like having old fashioned "dealers plates"?
Sounds like you are nearly good to go! Congratulations.
It's called a Cub Permit it's for vehicles older than 25 years, only available through membership of authorised clubs and has a limited number of days per year use and a log book must be kept up to date and on vehicle on penalty of demerit points.
Quote from: pinholenz on October 23, 2014, 03:20:40 AM
Unregistered vehicle permit? Sounds very civilised. Is that a bit like having old fashioned "dealers plates"?
Sounds like you are nearly good to go! Congratulations.
Wow, that is extremely civilised! Given that I tend to be a warm weather rider, that would be perfect for the odd week long trip and weekend jaunts. I want one. Is the club permit linked on just one vehicle or do you have the same number of days for each permit and vehicle.?
Maybe there is a case for Australia taking over New Zealand as another state after all.
Quote from: pinholenz on October 23, 2014, 09:13:25 PM
Wow, that is extremely civilised! Given that I tend to be a warm weather rider, that would be perfect for the odd week long trip and weekend jaunts. I want one. Is the club permit linked on just one vehicle or do you have the same number of days for each permit and vehicle.?
Maybe there is a case for Australia taking over New Zealand as another state after all.
Have a look at this link, it will explain better than I would. The problem with it the Club permited vehicles aren't recognised are registered is W.A. That's no prob for me as I'm unlikely to ever rise the XZ550 over to there.
https://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/registration/limited-use-permits/club-permit-scheme/car-club-permits
Not quite today, but....
Thursday after getting home from work I noticed that my rear tire had some tire cord showing though. Yikes. Luckily, I had another rear wheel with an unworn Metzler Lasertec tire already mounted and balanced, so after dinner I swapped that wheel onto my bike. Wow! What a difference a smooth, almost new (OK, twenty year old new) tire makes. It's way better than the worn out Battlax was, especially in the rain. No squirm at all crossing paint stripes or tar strips.
Scott
Today I recovered the seat with an Ebay purchased replica seat cover http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/180763859386.
After taking a few lessons from the University of Youtube, I felt that this was within my abilities and I was correct, even if I do say so myself.
I'm quite satisfied with the cover and look forward to getting out to test it.
Quote from: hoverhead47 on October 29, 2014, 12:38:18 AM
After taking a few lessons from the University of Youtube, I felt that this was within my abilities and I was correct, even if I do say so myself.
Good deal. It really is amazing the vast and varied information available on YouTube.
Today I went on a ride with the Custom and Classic Japanese Motorcycle Club. A total of 401 Kms from home and back. We went on roads that were no longer the main interstate/ intra state highways and some other "back roads" that have some nice twist end bends and a little bit of hill climbing as well. My XZ didn't miss a beat although with the new tyres I fear that I may have exceeded the speed limits unintentionally. Will have to wait and see.
After a successful 4000km test in the LH brake caliper, put round section seals in the RH brake caliper.
The 'seal' shop gave their numbers as 221 EPR and 127 EPR.
They cost A$ 1 each.
Round cross section seals you say - very interesting! Is the fit in the groove loose compared to the square profile seal? No drag when the brake is released and all that good stuff?
I was reading a thread on aussiefrogs.com about Renault R8G's where some calipers came with round seals and some with square. No obvious visual difference to the groove but somewhere a little engraving indicated which seal it came with from the factory. Apparently on later models, regardless of type originally fitted, either seal would work fine.
They were a good snug fit. Assume that when the piston went in, the round ring compressed into the square section grove even more tightly.
No leaks after 4000kms. No drag noticed whether after braking or just lifting the wheel off the ground & spinning it.
Have also experimented by removing the caliper from the stanchion, inserting an old disc, operating the brake (to hold the disc), & releasing the brake ..... old disc just drops out.
Not actually today but yesterday I finally got my garage build to that point that I moved my Vision inside. I think it was time to do that because the temperature was minus 20 degrees of celsius this morning when I woke up. I wasn't worried when the temperature was minus 10 degrees because at the summer I did flush my cooling system and added a bottle of antifreeze in it. Hopefully Vision did survive this and there is nothing but starter issue to be fixed before the summer. When the temperature rises a bit I have to get Vision out because I still have to paint the garage floor with epoxy.
Not strictly today now but yesterday I went with my local MC Club on a cruise to Apollo Bay via Meredith and Colac and return. A total of 631 Km. We avoided freeway and main road running for the most part so we had little to contend with other cars. Bike did the job but I've gained the Vision hesitation in the two months since I rebuilt the carbs and and possibly a vacuum leak. Will have to investigate that again. Was a very long day and I'll probably be suffering tomorrow (today) for it.