Since I'm replacing the stator, I decided to also check out the starter clutch. I've only had the bike running on the bench but didn't notice any unusaul noises that would indicate the starter clutch was loose. It appears that the bolts have been staked to keep them from backing out. Is this a factory remedy or has someone been in there before?
I think you are looking at the factory setup. You will need to replace the bolts with longer ones, use red loctite and peen the crap out of them. I have not done this yet but there are photos on here, somewhere.
:) The problem was/is these soc head cap screws work loose over a period :o :o sooooo, Yamaha came up with this "fix". However, don't think that this did fix the problem every time, it doesn't!!!
#19, that I have just finished, was standing with the side cover off and ready for a stator install...I hesitated a second and then thought "uh uh" ... I popped the flywheel off and these three screws had backed out about 1/2 - 3/4 of a turn!!!...and yes they were staked/peened over as per your picture.
You are that far in, so, remove the flywheel, remove and disguard the three screws...rebuild with new screws and
RED loctite/thread locker and then stake them!!!
While you have the flywheel off, you will see a 46mm thin nut on the shaft...it has a twin lock tab washer that will have
one tab bent over :o ::) This nut does come loose about 1/16" - 1/8" ... bend back the lock washer, jam a rag in the gears and torque that nut down, bend down the two lock tabs and reinstall your flywheel, side cover, etc...IF you do not do this NOW you will have to do it some day..."Pay me now, or pay me later" :o ;)
8).......TIGER....... 8)
BTW...I do this "fix" to every Vision when the left side cover comes off...
Thanks Tiger for that sobering piece of news. Mine look the same as in that pic so I thought the job had been done. Now I will do them when the new stator goes on next week.
The staked bolt shown in Riks' picture is the OEM set up. The proper repair is to "peen" the bolts. The appearance would look like a small steel mushroom. This is because the permanent repair calls for replacing the OEM bolts with bolts that extend two to three threads beyond the surface of the rotor/flywheel and are then hammered/"peened"down to the surface of the flywheel, thus making it impossible for them to back out.
Should the bolts ever need to be removed, their peened ends are ground off flush with the rotor surface.
Thanks for the good advice guys. I'm going to try to get to it this week since the gasket has arrived.
I'll be doing this later tonight (and tomorrow if needed). I'm without a manual however, could anyone share the proper torques with me? I'm happy with "tight as hell" on the clutch bolts, but I don't want to get it wrong on the crank-shaft threads...
The torque sequence is "one at a time", right? :)
Jims, You will find a manual in this thread - it's for the 11U but should be good for your purposes
http://ridersofvision.net/rovforum/index.php?topic=12221.msg111223#msg111223 (http://ridersofvision.net/rovforum/index.php?topic=12221.msg111223#msg111223)
Or PM lucky to get a DVD with a whole bunch more including the US model RJ and the RK supplement, Haynes etc
That's an awesome resource, Roro. That thread should be a sticky at the top of the list!
Tight as hell might be too much . Try between 2 and 3 white knuckles.
Quote from: Jimustanguitar on July 03, 2012, 07:27:25 PM
That's an awesome resource, Roro. That thread should be a sticky at the top of the list!
No worries - I'll happily scan or host resources sent to me and add to the list. There's a ton of work scanning these but I (and some others) think there is a certain community responsibility in sharing these resources. The 3 language manual was paid for by Ozvision and sent to me (internationally) for scanning, most of the others I have bought myself as they turn up on local auction sites or ebay, or got free from the XZ550.de (German RoV) Technik disk.
Just added links for a few more resources that I found out on the interweb.
I'm going thru the same thing at the moment. When these things go, it can do some weird things. I honestly never heard any noise but the rear wheel locked up twice in hard turns and I heard the starter spool up. it did always start however.
That's a worst case scenario. Mine occurred when I stopped to view the scenery. The starter just whirred , with out catching, I did a run and bump start , something I hadn't done in nearly 40 years, successfully!
If you got it apart, do the bolts. My stockers were peened as well and still came loose. 120 bucks for a new starter clutch if it's hosed.