My Vision is pretty tough to get going, though it may be the cold. What I can't figure out is why I can't open the choke even after it's warmed up, and have it return to idle. It keeps stalling on me. Closed, it purrs nicely, even after being started up. Would it have anything to do with the fist sized hole in hte side of the one exhaust, or would that not effect it? Thanks.
that exhaust hole is a separate deal. Can weld a plate on there if you want.
Check your cable. It may be routed wrong or need a cleaning/lube job. It is also possible that your choke slide pin is kinked or bent.
Have you been into the carbs yet?
Sounds like your idle jet(s) are clogged.
It could even be as simple as the cable not being held in place so there's nothing to give tension to pull the choke open.
speaking of which, my cable holding thingy has a stripped screw holding it in place, anyone know a good way to get it out?
What part is stripped? If it is the screw head, try some vice grips. If its the threads. try to drill it out & retap the hole for a slightly larger screw. If rusted / corroded in place, let it soak in some PB Blaster for a while - it may come free easier.
If you can't get vice grips on the head, try using a dremel or small file to make a new screwdriver slot on the head. Otherwise, grind it down & drill it out.
Hope this helps!
H2O
Quote from: Jay on January 09, 2009, 02:59:58 PM
My Vision is pretty tough to get going, though it may be the cold. What I can't figure out is why I can't open the choke even after it's warmed up, and have it return to idle. It keeps stalling on me. Closed, it purrs nicely, even after being started up. Would it have anything to do with the fist sized hole in hte side of the one exhaust, or would that not effect it? Thanks.
why are you wanting to apply the choke after it's warmed up?
does the bike idle at all? 1250? 900? rpm?
there is a thumb screw on the right side if you need to increase the idle speed
Sorry, I should have been more specific. I can't open the choke and keep it running. I close the choke, get it started, but even after it's warm if I try to open it the bike will stall. The mechanical function of the choke operates as it should though. I just want to know why I can't return it to normal after the bike is warm without it stalling. I have no idea my idle speed, actually. The tach on my instrument panel does not work. I just got a new one in and it does not work either for the idle. I have no idea why.
The "choke" on the Vision is actually a fuel enrichment circuit. If yours is moving properly, then your carbs are dirty. There is really no 'open' or 'closed' with this system like the butterfly on a choke. Try a thorough carb disassembly & cleaning.
H2O
Quote from: inanecathode on January 10, 2009, 01:18:22 AM
Sounds like your idle jet(s) are clogged.
Quote from: h2olawyer on January 11, 2009, 12:11:52 AM
The "choke" on the Vision is actually a fuel enrichment circuit. If yours is moving properly, then your carbs are dirty. There is really no 'open' or 'closed' with this system like the butterfly on a choke. Try a thorough carb disassembly & cleaning.
H2O
:) Get them off and cleaned...its a PITA but needs to be done.
8).......TIGER....... 8)
Gotcha, thanks! Any idea why my tach isn't working though? I've tried 2 instrument clusters which to me indicates that the problem is elsewhere, I just have no idea where it might be.
Check the connections at your TCI. That is where the tach signal comes from.
The tach gets its signal from one of the low tention spark coil leads. A wire (Gray?) splits off from one of the two low tension leads that feed the two spark coils. The two spark coils are located under and behind the steering head area. Locate the spark coils and clean all low tention connections there, and do not miss cleaning the frame grounding connections. Bright and shiney everywhere.
Also, what inane said.
Quote from: QBS on January 11, 2009, 01:58:19 PM
The tach gets its signal from one of the low tention spark coil leads. A wire (Gray?) splits off from one of the two low tension leads that feed the two spark coils. The two spark coils are located under and behind the steering head area. Locate the spark coils and clean all low tention connections there, and do not miss cleaning the frame grounding connections. Bright and shiney everywhere.
Also, what inane said.
Tach gets the signal from the front cylinder trigger wire (gray).
Actually, the 82 & 83 use different coil wires for the tach signal. One year it is the orange wire, the other is the grey. I don't recall which is which at the moment. I noticed it when I swapped my 82 gauge cluster for an 83 unit. (another often overlooked difference from 82 to 83 (US) versions)
Figured I'd add this just to deepen the confusion. :D
H2O
It seems that JB Weld was not enough to patch the exhaust. Revved the engine a few times and blew that little tin plate clear off. Either that or 24 hours was not long enough for it to fully harden in 25F temperatures. Oh well. I don't happen to have the wire feed acetelyne welder at the house, so I'll take it over to the shop next time I go and have it done right.
Quote from: Jay on January 12, 2009, 08:56:47 PM
It seems that JB Weld was not enough to patch the exhaust. Revved the engine a few times and blew that little tin plate clear off. Either that or 24 hours was not long enough for it to fully harden in 25F temperatures. Oh well. I don't happen to have the wire feed acetelyne welder at the house, so I'll take it over to the shop next time I go and have it done right.
Weld it, its the only way to truly fix it. Make sure you get a good weld all the way around, or seal the holes with exhaust putty, cause it'll hiss if you dont do it right and its definitely noticeable.
The jb weld had a good seal, but is only good until 600F. I tossed my stick welder a few years ago thinking "when am i ever going to weld again" and now have had 5 separate times in the past 6 months wishing i had a welder. I think i'm going to go buy a wire feed this weekend. Is it possible to get just the one muffler off without removing the entire exhaust?
Quote from: Jay on January 15, 2009, 08:52:53 AM
Is it possible to get just the one muffler off without removing the entire exhaust?
:) If its the OEM stocker system...NO!!!
However, if you have MAC's you can remove the mufflers, as well as the baffles, for working/welding... ;)
8).......TIGER....... 8)
The left and right mufflers and the crossover are one piece. Good luck!! :D :D :D :D
If it's the stock exhaust system, and depending on the extent and location of the damage, it might be a lot easier to weld the sytem while it's still attached to the bike. Especially if the rear wheel is removed and the bike is on some kind of raised stand.
Removing and replacing the stock system can be a real PIA. The header/manifold connections are not intuitive. Thourghly investigate all the postings here regarding the exhaust system before you proceed.
Quote from: Jay on January 15, 2009, 08:52:53 AM
The jb weld had a good seal, but is only good until 600F. I tossed my stick welder a few years ago thinking "when am i ever going to weld again" and now have had 5 separate times in the past 6 months wishing i had a welder. I think i'm going to go buy a wire feed this weekend. Is it possible to get just the one muffler off without removing the entire exhaust?
Stick would probably blow right through it, its really thin steel.
You have to take the muffs off as one piece, and its a HUGE pain in the ass. The rear cylinder input pipe is the one that sticks.
While you're in there, you should replace the copper doughnuts and the fiber gasket going into the muffler box, you really really dont want to have to take that thing off again. You'd think it'd free up a bit from being off once, but trust me its not.
I was going to try and weld it while it was attached to the bike. There's one problem with that though. The hole is on the underside of the bike, and my jack won't jack up the bike because the pipes are the lowest part on the bike, and I'd rather not use them as a jack point. I'm trying to figure some sort of pulley system to the ceiling of the garage to lift it that way, but it's been cold, so I haven't gotten around to it yet.
There is an ancient welding technique that is very handy for welding exhaust systems. Its called an acetylene / oxygen torch . A stick welder will massacre the thin material used . As heavy as they are, you would think they were made of stout stuff, but there very thin material . If you can weld with a torch , see if you can borrow one. Hint, any HVAC tech will have one in his truck, maybe you know one?
I figured a stick welder would blow right through, which was why I was leaning towards wire feed. I've only used the Oxygen/Acetylene torches before to cut... They would dice through my exhaust with quickness and ease. I'm unaware of a method to use this type of torch to weld, but I will look into it.
You want to make sure that you DO NOT use the cutting torch for welding. It will have multiple orifices in the tip. You WANT to use a welding torch, this has only ONE orifice in the tip. This will produce just the right amount of heat to melt the solder wire without blowing throught the muffler. BEWARE tho, you can still burn a hole through the muffler if you heat it up to long, but yI think you know that already. ;)
Just practice on two pieces of light weight steel before you attempt the project. You can get a small package of copper plated steel welding rod at ACE hardware, It has several sizes of rod .