Front Break problem

[bubstewart]

So, I rebuilt the front master cyl.. I can't seem to get it to pump up to bleed it out. Just as reminder, I was sitting for three years with all the fluids drained out. Any ideals??

[The Prophet of Doom]

Try a bit of suction on the caliper end.

[drtaco]

i agree with POD try some suction. few months ago I rebuilt the MC and both calipers also replaced lines with a 2 hose kit. even using the hand vacuum pump it still took time and keep eye on the MC make sure you keep it full of fluid. put some towels (ones you wont use again) on the tank and anything else that might be exposed to a 'blurp' of fluid back to the  MC or spill when filling. I also pumped the brake to help get the MC primed and to push air out, fluid in. don't give up, I thought I must have done something wrong but kept working at it and it turned out great. also I found not to open my bleeders to far, it appeared to me that I pulled air from around bleeder threads making it look like I still had air in calipers. I did find that the internal ring supplied with the new kit for the MC was too small when rebuilding.
sorry I rambled on

[Rikugun]

In addition to what's been mentioned I like to "bench bleed" the master cylinder after any work to it. If it won't develop pressure off the bike there's no point in installing it - something is wrong with the parts or how it was assembled.

Starting the bleeding process with the caliper pistons/brake pads in contact with the rotor helps too.

Another trick is to fill the system from the bottom and have it force air topside to the reservoir. I used to have a pump oil can filled with DOT 3/4 and a clear hose to do this at the bleeder nipples.

This one I've not yet had the opportunity to try but some swear by it. It does require you have at least a spongy lever to start with. Put a rubber band around the grip and lever and leave it over night. I've not heard a reason why it's purported to work so I'll make one up... The constant slight pressure encourages any bubbles to migrate up to the master over time. YMMV

I have teased the brake lever with slight movement (not full travel strokes) and watched bubbles release through the holes into the reservoir. I've bled entirely using this system but it relies on all the fittings and hoses being positioned (and the planets aligning) to discourage areas of trapped air. Turn the bars, lean the bike, remove and hang the calipers, whatever it takes to eliminate possible "low spots".

After long attempts at bleeding with constant stroking of the MS piston, the fluid can become aerated so it's best to leave it over night and try again later.

[bubstewart]

Thanks for your replys, I did get it. Boy, what a bunch of work to do so. I will say I'm gonna have to do some work on the caliper its self, it seems like it is not releasing right..

[dingleberry]

What Rikugun mentions about leaving overnight really works well after bleed and aeration of fluid. I pull lever in hard and zip-tie in position. Gives a nice hard brake in the morning.

[Rikugun]

Gives a nice hard brake in the morning.

There's a joke in there but I wouldn't touch it with a ten foot pole. That's about three meters for those of you enjoying the metric system. Either way, a pole.

[hoverhead47]

few months ago I rebuilt the MC and both calipers also replaced lines with a 2 hose kit.

Why did you do this? Is there a technical reason or an economic reason? 
I am led to believe that the splitter block under the triple isn't merely a T junction but a type of proportional valve.  I'm thinking it might be a safety feature for if you loose continuity in one or other of the calliper lines.
Has this modification been an improvement?

[fiat-doctor]

Nope, the splitter is just a splitter... no magic