What Gives??? Bike Idling at 4500 RPM now

[crackerkorean]

I dont get it. I dont knwo what I did wrong but I canot get my bike to get going again to save my life.

First it was the rear brake
Second it was the front cylinder not Firing
Now it idles at 4500 RPM with the butterflys closed.

The rear brake is easy just waiting on parts.
Second the front cylinder only fires when the bike is revved of the RPMs are higher but not when idling at 4500 PRM.

I tried syncing my carbs but the bike was idling at 3500 RPM. So I went ahead and synced them there. Not it idls even higher and i cannot get it to go down.

WHAT GIVES!!!!!! I alsmot ready to sell this thing and be without a bike. I tell you itl be less stressful!!!!!!!
I dont know what the hell I am doing to make all this stuff go all wonky!

[Lucky]

my wife is on the phone at the moment (9:15 pm) but i'll give you a call when she gets off, i have some thoughts...

--Lucky

[YellowJacket!]

Cracker,
Heres my 0.02 which Lucky may have covered already since he gave me some tips on my idle.

1. check the tension on your throttle cable.  Mine was too tight.  There is an adjustment knob where the cable comes out of the grip.  I had mine set too tight without any "play" in the cable.  Whenever I turned my bike to the right the idle would shoot up high.

2. Once you have adjusted some slack in the cable, use the idle thumbscrew on the carb to set the correct idle.

Other factors may be leaky vacuum lines or leaky YICS/YICS Hoses

Cap off the YICS ports and check/adjust your idle.  Do the YICS leak test - although I think I read already that you checked your YICS.

Take Care,

David

[crackerkorean]

I spoke with lucky last night. We seem to think there is either one really big vacuume leak or several small ones on the rear cylinder.

The throttle cable is loose and the idle screw is all the way backed out.

The YICS was sealed off but I am going to look some more.
I am thinking intake book but I am surprised that it would leak that much but just have to see.

[crackerkorean]

I went out there this afternoon per your suggestion and was not able to find any vacuume leak.

The idle screw pretty much out the rear carb still had the bike idling at 1300. I shot down the throat of the carb and it would kill the bike. I sparyed very small amouns all around the rear carb and nothing. Just idling along happily.

I pluged off both YICS hoses and the petcock vaccume hose and still nothing. The front cylinder fires if im on the gas.

And to top things off the new petcock is now leaking fuel from the back where the diaphram is.

Any other ideas?

[Lucky]

recheck the synq, make sure the flats on the ends of the synq rod are facing the carbs, not 'out' (come to think of it, if they are on backwards & rubbing, that would make it dam hard to synq properly)

reshoot the carbs with tiny shots of carb spray ANYWHERE there is vacuume, not just the rear carbs (besides, it's the ft cyl that you said doesn't fire)

LIGHT shots down the ft carb throat, 'spraying' it will kill it...

you'll just have to pull the petcock apart & see what's up, kits for 82's are ava from Keyster/Sirrus on Ebay.

let us know what you find

--Lucky

[crackerkorean]

I swear im such a tard.
Ok the new sync rod was about 1/4" longer than the old one. So that explains that.

Still not getting any firing from the front cylinder at idle. So it seems the carbs are coming off and I am going to poke around.
The pilot circuit. What does it involve? I know the adjustment screw on the side but what else?

[Lucky]

hmm, grasshopper, i seem to remember a conversation where i said make sure the rods are exactly the same length, lol

before you pull anything synq the carbs & set the pilots, i'll bet the ft cyl starts fireing...

[crackerkorean]

I dont remember that conversation at all lucky ;D I dont know what happened.

So I can sync the carbs with only the rear cylinder firing??

I just read your PM lucky. I will pull the jets from the top first its easier to get to.
What about the pilot screws are they on the top also?

I will start there because I ont have to pull carbs to do that. IF that works woot!!

[Extent]

Even if it's not firing the intake valves are still opening and pulling air through the carb right?  I would think that you should be able to rough it in no problem.

[crackerkorean]

OK thats what I thought but just wanted to make sure.

[Lucky]

i'm confused..you said you dipped the carbs, so you kinda HAVE to know where the pilot screws are... on the left side of the carbs, just above the intake manifolds. you pulled them out when you dipped it right? remember to count the turns first.

you can't just pull the jets on the top.. your not getting fuel to the ft carb, the top jets are AIR jets, see where i'm going with this?

you have to pull the carbs & remove the pilot jets from the bottom, if you want to fix the problem, then you have to solve the problem, no shortcuts here...

[crackerkorean]

Yes I pulled them. Sorry i was confused.
Not hard to do lol. I will try syncing first and see if that works. But I have  feeling that it will not.
At least I get some more practice pulling carbs

[crackerkorean]

Trying to remember all the info thta lucky has and told me per one of our conversations.
I am wondering if the idle circuit is clogged due to scaling from dipping the carbs.

I am thinking about syncing the carbs but almost want to go ahead and pull them. To sync you have to warm the bike up and it keeps it from being able to get your hands in there later.

My rush is due to a future lack of time. starting next week I will have school 4 nights a week so that will not leave a whole lot of time for me to work on thebike.

Opinions?? should I go ahead and pull take the pilot jet out and spray with carb cleaner or try to sycn and tune and hope it works.
It worked before but them all of a sudden stopped. Thats why im thinking pulling the carbs/.

[Tiger]

The rear brake is easy just waiting on parts.

??? Have they arrived yet....... ???

                       ???       TIGER        ???

[crackerkorean]

The rear brake is easy just waiting on parts.

??? Have they arrived yet....... ???

                       ???       TIGER        ???

They arrived yesterday. I am lucky that my wife went home early, they had to be signed for.
Thanks again.

[Night Vision]

cracker- look down the carbs from the top and see if the butterflies are opening and closing evenly. adjust the sync rod so that they are even (feeler gauge, piece of wire?). If I remember right, there will be a tiny gap between the butterfly and the carb throat.

you can do this when the bike is cold. that will get you pretty close enough for rough sync and then use the manometer.

[Lucky]

loosen up the hoses you will pull to hook up the manometer before you warm up the bike, then use long nosed pliers or hemostats to pull the hoses & plug in the manometer lines, that way you won't fight with them when it's hot.

& if you burn your hand, Deal with it, we are Vision Men..men, men, men, men manly men!!

[crackerkorean]

Its not the syncing part thats the problem. Its if it doenst work and I have to pull the carbs.
I would rather pull the carbs on a cool bike than a hot bike.

Per our conversation earlier i think it might be some scaled garbage in the idle circuit some where. It was idling fine before.

Thats why I was asking if I should just go ahead and pull the carbs and clean the idle curciut before I even procede with the syncing and what not. I know I can get the bike to start and idle with just the rear cylinder.

I know one is easier but it keeps me from doing the other unless I give it time and that is one thing I am running out of very quickly.

[Lucky]

i'd say synq it first, i have a feeling it's the whole problem..

anyway, by the time you get the tank & everything off, it'll be cool enough to work on if you have to pull the carbs.