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DAVID SULECKI's 550

Started by Humber, December 07, 2002, 12:35:27 AM

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Humber

Hi everobody.


The pictures of Dave Sulecki project bike have been on ron's gallery for a weeks now. I wonder why nobody paid attention to the beuty of his bike. Forgive me if I am not right but in my opinion it is the best looking Vision on the gallery.  Those  triple clamps are so hug...e and this foam saddle......... It looks as it left a shop few second ago. No signs of passed time are visible, Dave I wonder if you could send me few pictures of it- Few???? I WANT a lot of them - but of best quality since I want to place it on my wallpaper.....
nie ma podpis?w

RobTx

#1
I think it's a great looking bike too.  Maybe a write up from Dave on what all was involved.  I really like that upper triple clamp too.  Dave did you do this just to use tubular bars?  Did you machine it yourself?  If I had access to someone with machining abilities, I'd consider upper and lower clamps that could hold larger forks.  That'd improve handling dramatically I think.  Those 35mm forks are very spindly for this size motorcycle.  Was it difficult to get the engine to carburate cleanly with just those pod filters?  The silver frame and wheels look awesome too.  How about more pictures Dave?  Great job!
Rob

jasonm.

Dave told me he had a big flat spot in the middle. Dave and I have been trying to find some bigger pilot jets. Seems the #60 is the largest of this type. I personally don't trust a drill bit or my unsteady hands. I don't know if lately he has got it running better.
looks aren't important, if she lets you play by your rules

Dave T.

#3
What I did it use my dremel tool and some wire size drill bits for my XT610. I couldn't get a larger size pilot jet so I got some bits at www.grainger.com. Used the smallest collet and put the tool in and WHAMO! bigger pilot orifice. Wire size drill bits are only about $1 each. You have to look at a decimal drill chart to see what range of sizes you need. #92 drill bit is .0079". I use this drill at work to calibrate BBD's on our drills at work. #79 is .0145". You may have to get a range of bits and just start drilling the hole larger until you get the desired results. Just looking through my Grainger book, I see that #1 wire size drill bit is .2280" diameter and #60 is .0400" in diameter. #30 is .1285". I think I bought #41-#50. They are about $.45 cents each. Grainger #'s are 4UM15 and in that area.

Don't worry Jason, it will work, even in your hands... Ha ha! ;D

I really like the Ducati like exhaust can also. I want to make one for my V too and trash my MAC system. But I think buying another bike would be smarter than what Dave S. did. What can he sell this V for? $1500? I'd like to see the CAD drawing for the upper triple clamp also. Looks like it was made with a 5 axis CNC mill.

Neat stuff.... ?:)
Life is special; and I believe you can overcome it's biggest obstacle, yourself. ;)

yamy

 ;D

Hey guy's, thanks for all the notes. Yeah, it was a project to get her to where she is now, I do not intend to sell it, so cost was never a major factor. I worked in the motorcycle business in the eighties at a multi-line big four dealer, and always wanted a Vis. So, I found one cheap, and proceeded to do a frame up on it. Not too expensive, really. But, I would never get out of it what I put in, that is certain.   :P

I really enjoy those English magazines that display all of the "street specials" where they take and totally remake/redesign an old model, and mix and add parts from other makes and models. That is what gave me the bug to start this project. Check out Classic Motorcycle Mechanics, you can buy it at Borders Books.

The triple clamp I machined on a Bridgeport. Setting up the angle cuts required a special fixture, so what looks like an X-Y move on a CNC mill was done by hand. I may still have the drawing hardcopy if anyone is interested. What I was trying to improve was the stock handlebar layout, which is terrible. Now I can mount conventional 7/8" bars of any bend. Much more flexible for fit to the rider than the stock set-up.

Jason is right on with the carbs and the flat spot. It is winter now, and I haven't spent any time to get it sorted better. It may not go away, and I am willing to live with a little bit of hesitation. I am also searching hard for some XV535, V-max, or Venture carbs. I feel that the CV type will help the thing flow better.

The three-into-one exhaust I made from 1.5 tubing chopped from an old MAC header. I made up a jig (Jason has seen the picture) that located all of the key points of the front pipes and the rear Y-pipe. The rear pipe and silencer is stock Honda CRF450R, and it does sound sweet. The chrome work could be better, and I may be having this redone in February.

Anyway, it is an ongoing project. Right now it is too cold to mess with, and with X-mas coming, my time is spoken for. I do have more pics if anyone wants, just E-mail me and I will send them along.

One more note, thanks to Jason, Glenn, and Ron (and any others I forgot). All were a great help with advice on the things that can and will go wrong with this bike. If only I would have ready the advice sooner, I would not have fried a brand new Electrex stator (forgot to check the RR).


yamy

 :) One last thing, the seat was re-covered by a guy in San Fran, calls himself "Mike the Seat Guy". High quality work, and inexpensive too. It was about $60.00 to have it done to my spec, just send him the seat. Then he said to just send a check if I liked the job! Good guy, he has a web sight, so just search on that name.

QQBS

Mention was made of being able to veiw this bike on Rons' site gallery.  I have tried to locate the gallery and have had no success.   Will someone please advise?  Thanks!  Cheers.

Lucky

1982/3 XZ550 Touring Vison, Gold on Black

Pepsibike

Ron,
Love your photogalery. I hope to have some pictures for you in the spring.My V is currently under re-construction.
BTW nice cases on Humbers bike.
Pepsibike

yamy

#9
 ;D Humber's bike color is awesome, I wish now mine was blue...Maybe blue pinstripes over the yellow. Oh yeah...

Humber

Don't do it!!!! Don't mix blue and yellow and vice versa. My blue is fine and I like it. When it gets dark it becomes more and more lighter - wonderfull effect (anyway if you want to achieve my blue I can send you exact proportions of what/how to mix - it won't be a problem since a paint is an original STANDOX and I have list of MIXes used to produce this colour). But I can't forgive myself putting those yellow additions on it. I am going to get rid of them as soon as I  gather enough money. Since all the stickers are under lacquer a new layer of paint is a MUST.

Anyway none of my friends like this scheme - I wasted the final effect with this crappy yellow. Of course it doesn't mean that your yellow is bad. Nothing similar - I like it. I don't know, maybe some tasteful addition of blue will contribute to the final effect but to tell the truth I would think it over twice before making any changes....

Cheers....
nie ma podpis?w

Humber

Dave, I think that two silver or black stripes over the tank would add to charm.... but without them it looks also pretty...

Anyway I think that silver goes better with yellew, of course when the silver is prevailing..
nie ma podpis?w

Lucky

Two paint schemes i've always liked:  Gold over red & Silver or grey over blue.
--Lucky
1982/3 XZ550 Touring Vison, Gold on Black

yamy

 8) Humber - You hit on my idea, I will be putting silver or black "Yamaha" on the tank, with pin striping to match.

I won't add any blue, I just think yours is the best color combo that I have seen. It is a nice shade of blue, and the silver adds some class. Very nice!

Anyway, got all winter to think about it. Stay well - DS

jasonm.

#14
To D.T.: must do a conversion to know what size drill you are using. The jets are always sized metric. EX:A #60 jet is .60mm.
To Humber:After emoving the yellow. Try silver pin stripes. Silver always looks good with the silver wheels and chrome.
looks aren't important, if she lets you play by your rules

yamy

Jason - You could use a sized gauge pin to measure the existing jet hole size, and then increase the hole size incrementally from there. Perhaps .005" steps or so.

Like pappy said, measure twice, cut (or drill) once.

Do we know if the number on the jet designates a hole size? If I remember correctly, in Mikuni carbs it does (such as 60 meaning .6mm diameter maybe?).

On a Keihin the jet size was a flow measurement of some kind. Just my crusty memory on the subject. But, if you measure the hole, then drill from there, you can't be wrong. You could even measure the hole size on an optical comparator (sp?)