So, I have looked the V over and noticed that the carburetor joints are extremely cracked, split, and very much showing age. Doesn't this cause major vacuum leaks or similar problems? Can they be glued or sealed? Should I get new ones and are they still available?
Steve
Yes. Well, I did the front cylinder and the intake were within spec, one exhaust was in spec and the other was just outside. I had a hard time getting the rear cover off so I haven't done that yet but will. The carb joints are very very bad though so I think I must deal with those while I'm in there!
I know it sounds like a lot of work , but I partially drop the engine down ( remove front exhaust pipes and loosen radiator , remove air box. ) My old clumsy arthritic fingers wont work well enough the do it in the frame.
So, with great struggle and holding my tongue right, I got the rear cover off. The rear valves seem to be way off if I'm measuring right. My book says there should be a simple line to mark the rear cyl tdc but I could only find a 2T with a line that seems to be correct. It seems odd to me that the front cyl would be within spec but the rear measures .004/.005 for the intake and .007/.0015 for the exhaust. I need to get the tool to remove the shims and I'll look into that today
Steve
I went to the local Yamaha dealer today, Santa Rosa Powersports and inquired about getting a valve tool. They spent a lot of time finding one and eventually quoted $60 plus tax which right now is beyond my means. Then I went back to the shop to see what they'd charge to adjust the valves if I already had it opened and ready to go. Guess what? The mechanic used to have a Vision and dug through his tool box, found a couple of tools that might work and, because its a Vision, he loaned me the tools!!! What shop would do that!? Its nice to know the shop which is under new ownership has a mechanic who knows this bike and is happy to help keep it on the road!
Steve
just be very careful when removing or putting those valve covers back on... there are plastic oil plugs on top of the cams that you DON'T want to knock off or lose.
you don't really need to be at the 2T line or whatever.... as long as the cam lobe is close to a position where the round part of the cam lobe is over the shim (i.e. the egg is standing up), the reading is good..
the marks only make it easier to check both front and read valves at the same time
Steve,
I bought my tool from Powersports, back in 003.
Does he have shims to swap with you?
I'll mail you the ones you need if he doesn't and you can mail your old ones back in the same envelope.
Let me know if you want to do that.
;)
Coil