cooling system woes

[arthurdent510]

Ok, so now that the bike is running better, time to move on to other issues...

As long as I'm moving, the bike is fine.  As soon as I hit traffic and stuck at lights, I start over heating.  Already threw a bypass on the fan so I can turn it on and leave it on.  Is it just a matter of doing a better job of filling it and getting as much air out that I can?  There's no leaks that I see.... there's no fluids ever in its parking spot.  Is this a matter of a bad theromostat?  Something else I need to look at?

On a side note, I've heard a little about engine ice... is it worth it?  Does it really help much?  With the issues I'm having in 70 degree weather, at this point I'm expecting to park it all summer...  110 degrees is only going to make it worse...  Has anyone looked at putting a bigger radiator on?  Was wondering if that would help combat Arizona's heat...

[QBS]

V cooling systems are extremely robust.  They are possibly the most trouble free system on the bike.  Be advised that you should not consider the bike to be overheating until the temp needle TOUCHES the red zone, anything less is within normal operating parameters.  In my 25 years of '83 ownership I have seen this happen twice.  Once in heavy 95F traffic with a blown fan fuse and once while doing a sustained 8500 rpm test run through the Mohave Desert, fully loaded for extended touring, at 105F.  During the Mohave test I was very carefully watching the temp gauge as it slowly crept up to the red zone.  I immediately backed down to 4500 rpm the instant it touched.  The needle then began to slowly drop back to its 1:00 o'clock position with the bike never showing any sign of distress or coolant loss.  The test took place in '99 with about 72k miles on the odometer.  All hoses and the thermostat were OEM at the time.  The cooling system has continued to be trouble free from that time to now.

Regarding your question about fortified coolants,  based on my experiences as described above, don't waste your $ to fix a problem that doesn't exist.  If your needle is touching the red zone, you have either got a failed thermostat (rare), an improperly burped system (not uncommon), or a blown fan fuse (rare).

If the needle is indeed touching the red zone, but only in traffic, a blown fuse becomes the #1 suspect.  If the needle is touching the red zone on the open road and in traffic, then suspect either bad burping or a bad thermostat.  In this scenario I would re burp before I checked the thermostat.

[arthurdent510]

Well, it's hitting red even with the fan on in traffic.  I've had coolant start pouring from the overflow bottle and making a bunch of smoke a couple times... all while idling in traffic, sub 80 degree days, with the fan on.  It's probably a case that I didn't burp it properly, but I wanted to feel out for other causes.

[Night Vision]

try burping first

it's not hard to pull out the one you have, drop into a pot of water with a meat thermometer and see if it opens and at what temp

supposedly a Stant #13758 will work... do a search, I think you need to drill a vent hole into it..


.... OEM thermostats are stupid priced...

[motoracer8]

 Make shure the radiator flows water, Alumimum radiators are subject to corosion if the coolant is not kept in diecent shape. Use 50/50 antifreeze, and distilled water. They don't fail often but make shure the thermostat is working. It should start opening around 180 deg.and should be fully open around 200 deg.

  Ken G.

[Tiger]

 :) Remove the rad' cowl, remove the rad' cap, top up the coolant as needed, fire up the Vision and let her idle...as she warms up you will get air bubbles coming to the opening...once you have no bubbles, shut down the engine, top up coolant, replace the rad' cap and cowl and go take her for a run 8)

                    8).......TIGER....... 8)

[Rick G]

Stant 13748 will work fine (I bought one in '99) even if you don't drill the hole . Just burp the system as Tiger describes.  That stant is for a '88 chevy Nova 1.6. It's what is in my Vision now.

[arthurdent510]

Ah, thanks for the tips!  I suspect that the thermostat is good, I just didn't get all the air out of the system.  Going for a ride tomorrow afternoon, so I'll bleed it out in the morning and see how it does.  Thanks!

[supervision]

  Remove the gas tank, there is a bleed blot, in the return hose tee, where the temp  censer is.  Remove that bolt, and slowly add coolant, to the raditor, untill is full, up to the bolt hole,  put never/sieze , on the bolt, when you put it back. Now you have a full system. Also be sure you have the catch tank, in play, as it is needed to keep the system full.

[Rick G]

SV  I quit messing around with the bleed bolt long ago. if previous mechanics didn't put antisieze on it , it will more than likely break off. Plus for me its a pain pulling the tank anyway.
If you run the engine with the radiator cap off and warm it up until it quits burping and the coolant has expanded enough, so that its starting to go over the top, you can install the cap and be sure that all the entrained air is gone. I even cut the plastic "shield " from the radiator shroud so I don't have to remove it to add coolant.

[JDArgonaut]

Ok, I need some more help. When I bought the bike last year, the previous owner told me that he ran 100% antifreeze and said that is what I should do. Now after reading more on the subject on hear, I think I need to drain it all out and put in the 50/50. I also read a past post written a few years ago that said phosphate free. Why is that? Is it because of the foaminess (I don't know if that is a word, but it sounds good :D)?
Thanks,
JDA

[Rick G]

It's for the mechanical seal in the water pump, the salicilate's in the regular anti freeze can cause premature ware. Honda makes a good one that is premixed.

[Tiger]

 :) There is no benefit running 100%...antifreeze should be at a 50/50 mix. I use the Red "Long Life" coolant, from my local auto store, in "The Mistress" and the Visions that I have rebuilt and sold.

I would recommend a coolant change every three years, regardless of what you use...it is an inexpensive, hard working product, that is easy to flush out and replenish...Peace of mind ladies & gentlemen, peace of mind... 8)

                      8).......TIGER....... 8)

[inanecathode]

100% Antifreeze actually has worse temperature reactive properties than 50/50. If i remember correctly the actual perfect mix of antifreeze as far as boiling is concerned is like 60/40 antifreeze/water.

[kwells]

50/50 mixtures will prevent freezing the best but is not the best for heat exchange.  Many run with 25/75 for max cooling.

[jefferson]

I second that 25/75 mix. That is what I run in my bikes for the extra cooling capacity. The only reason to run 50/50 is if the bike is stored where it gets really cold in the winter. I run water wetter too.

Jeff