POR didnt stick NOW WHAT?????

Started by crackerkorean, July 17, 2005, 04:54:35 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

Kevin

I've used redkote, it is not near as good as the POR. Kevin C. 

gmac

Can't help with getting the POR out of the tank, but here's what I did.

Rinsed my tank with Tide and water, got all the rust out of my tank with Evapo-rust (http://www.orisonmarketing.com/corrosion/evaporust/evapo-rust.html).  Cleaned everything out including the old gas sludge, doesn't bother the paint  (even freed up my stuck fuel gauge sender).  Pour it in, leave it in for 24 hours and shake it once in a while, drain the tank, rinse it out with a hose, fill it again, repeat procedure, drain it and rinse it out.

Covered the leaks with JB Weld on the outside (probably should have soldered it, but have a problem with applying heat to a gas tank, not to mention buring off good paint, plus acid core solder will leave a residue that paint won't stick to even after cleaning with laguer thinner).  Sealed it with Caswell Plating (http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/epoxygas.htm)

I think POR makes a great product after reading the posts off old car collector sites on painting over rust (I collect old cars in my "spare" time), but I like to buck the system plus this was clear and I wanted the inside of the tank to look original (not sure why, like anyone's gonna look inside my tank, but it's a peave of mine), plus it says it sticks to rust, and while I have proved with my tests that the Evapo Rust dissolves everything, I figured it was worth not taking a chance in case the areas I can't see still have something on them.

So far so good, runs great, no leaks, very happy.  Time will tell if I made the right choice.

Gary

cdntinpusher

Quote from: gmac on July 25, 2005, 02:19:31 AM
Rinsed my tank with Tide and water, got all the rust out of my tank with Evapo-rust (http://www.orisonmarketing.com/corrosion/evaporust/evapo-rust.html).? Cleaned everything out including the old gas sludge, doesn't bother the paint? (even freed up my stuck fuel gauge sender).? Pour it in, leave it in for 24 hours and shake it once in a while, drain the tank, rinse it out with a hose, fill it again, repeat procedure, drain it and rinse it out.

Gary


I have some rust in the bottom of my tank I need to remove. Crackerkorean's story of his POR experience has scared me off that approach for now, so I think I'll try your approach. I have a couple of questions.

1. How has it held up? Is rust reappearing?

2. What does the Tide and water do? And I assume you mean liquid laundry tide?

3. Does the EvapoRust damage non-metal components. I see you didn't take the fuel gauge sending unit out.. what about the petcock parts etc. Can I just take the tank off the bike petcock in off position and leave everything attached or do I need to remove some parts.

In advance, Thanks for the info

CTP
CTP
-- ROV? Wannabe

Lucky

CTP, we've been using POR for years (myself  several times on a few tanks) & this is the first time we've ever heard of anyone having a problem. I think it's because Cracker didn't or couldn't prep the tank properly. (sorry Cracker) one of the problems he had is that after the Metal Prep step, whick removes the rust (muriatic acid) he left the tank overnight in the Georga humidity.  after Medal Ready, the bare metal will flash rust. POR over that & the POR will have problems sticking...

POR is the best tank liner & there is, IMHO, it's not affected by heat, additives, etc. it won't shrink, crack or scratch off from the pump nozzle.  the only thing that affects it is UV rays which it'll never see inside the tank.. (it has to be painted over if it's used outside on the frame or something)

for about $30 you get the cleaner, metal prep, POR, brush, patch material & instructions, not a bad deal...

my .02, --Lucky
1982/3 XZ550 Touring Vison, Gold on Black

gmac

CTP,

No, the rust is not reappearing as everything is sealed by the epoxy sealer I used from Caswell,  and this sealer sticks to rust, so even though I was pretty sure I had gotten all the rust out, I wanted to make sure there would be no problems in case anything was left that I couldn't see.  I used the second half of the Caswell kit on an old Allis Chalmers tractor gas tank that was severly rusted with no cleaning, and so far it has stuck to the rust (about 2 months, not a great long term test but so far so good).

As I stated in that post, I am sure the POR is a great product, but the liner I used is clear, not grey as I believe the POR is, and I wanted a clear metal look on the inside of the tank.  As Lucky said there was apparently some remainting polutants in Crackers tank that kept it from sticking, but again that's why I use the sealer I did.

I used Tide (yes liquid) to clean out the loose stuff and petrolium products out of the tank.  My primary reason was to keep from contamintating the Evapo-rust so I could use it for other purposes and disposal is easier if it is not poluted, but I also figured it would be a good idea to get everything as clean as possible.  Just FYI I have used the Evapo-rust I used in my tank to clean many other items, and it still works great.  I can send you pictures if you want, email me.

Evapo-rust doesn't damage paint, plastic, aluminum, brass, or anything else that I have found ( I did wipe the splashed off the paint when I filled the tank just to be safe, it does seem to take automotive wax off, and it says it will remove the blueing from gun barrels so don't try to shoot your tank with it in).  I left everything on my tank, and it cleaned everything, including the petcock.  The plastic tubes were filled with varnish and sludge when I started, and clean when I was done, the petcock was clean on the inside also. I even used the Evapo-rust to clean off the rust that was stuck to the rubber gasket from the sender unit when I did remove it to seal the tank (soaked the gasket for a couple of hours rather than scraping it off an risking cutting it). I really can't say enough about this product. I took my tank off, filled it with the stuff, shook it around once in a while, drained and rinse it, filled it again with the stuff I drained out filtered through a sheet to get out the big chunks, and did it again.  I used electrical tape to temporarily seal the rust holes and keep the stuff from leaking out, as the holes got larger as I was cleaing the tank. Just make sure you fill it completely to get everything covered. Plus I like stuff that isn't toxic and hard to dispose of, and I'm guessing muric acid doesn't do your paint much good.

If you do the POR thing I guess I would still use the Evapo-rust first if you aren't on a real tight budget. Better to spend a few dollars now than deal with the frustration later, and I can't imagine it would hurt anything.

Hope this helps you out.

Gary

Rick G

Por 15 is a very thin coating , but very tough  . I usually use  3/4 of a can on a Vision tank .
Rick G
Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there in lurks the skid demon
'82.5 Yamaha XZ550 RJ  Vision,
'90 Suzuki VX800, 1990 Suzuki DR350.
'74  XL350   Honda , 77 XL350 Honda, 78 XL350 Honda, '82 XT 200 Yamaha, '67 Yamaha YG1TK, 80cc trail bike