Outta Synch...

[tryder]

Everything's back together....yeah!   Now I just need to figure out this manometer thing. I think I've got the pilot screws and idle setting figured out but when I hooked up the manometer and slowly turned the valves open the oil in the tubes shot up like it was homesick for the rear cylender. My question is: Which way do I need to turn the synch rod to get more vacuum on the front cylender? is there a "start from this point" setting for the rod? I'm so close to running, just need some pointers. I've looked through all the posts/tip sections that I can find but still an a bit unclear as to the exact process. Thanks a ton!

[nvdranger]

Unfortunetly theres no starting point once the carbs are on the bike, i believe.  others have set them while off the bike by having very little light coming through on each side then using the manometer.  
loosen the locking nut.  let the bike get to running temps.  then hook up the manometer.  which you've already done.  if the rear shoots up that means there is more gas going into that cylinder.  now to try and explain this.  take a pair of pliars, grab the rod and rotate the pliars up towards the tank.  that should raise the level in the front cylinder and lower the rear.  continue to rotate the pliars up or down if you go too far til its as close as possible.  
when tightening the locking nut be carful b/c you can ruin the work you just did.  i held the rod with the pliars and tightened the nut with a wrench.  then recheck on the manometer that they are still in synch.  hopefully this helps.

Ken

[tryder]

yeah, that helps, gonna try it out tonite, hopefully I'll have it tuned & running like a top for the weekend.

[nvdranger]

if you have troubles shoot me an email or post it here.  with the email i should be able to get back to you almost right away.  a properly tuned back makes all the world of difference.  my front cylinder was way up and almost sucked the mercury into the bike, i had to jump up and hit the kill switch.

Ken

[George R. Young]

This is an easy, frugal one. If it's perfectly adjusted, there will be a bit of play in the clevis pin at the end. If it's adjusted too long or too short, it will be holding one carb or other open, and there will be no play.