YICS... revisited.

[DRaynor]

I have an internal and a external leak on my YICS (82 model). I have read Lucky's instruction, and have found them to be awesome, (Thanks Lucky)! Anyway, I do have one question, where exactly do you cut it in half. I would assume at the seam, but I just want to make sure. I'm sure this is a stupid question, BUT since I only have one, I can't make a mistake. Thanks in advance.

Dwayne

PS Does anyone have an extra one that they may part with?

[Cdnlouie]

Cut it on the seam. ?There is a thin line visible where it should be cut apart. ?I think Lucky's idea is really great, but I am the impatient type and had great success with my hacksaw down the middle (more or less) a piece of emery cloth on a flat surface to square off the ragged edge.

Clean up with some lacquer thinner.

Then J.B. Weld epoxy (dry overnight) applied to both sides and down the middle, smooth off the outside edge and you have a very durable YICS. ?The epoxy is even the right colour (grey) to make it look orginal.

P.S Even if your not a straight cutter, the epoxy covers a multitude of sin. ?Make sure you clean off the old black gasket well.

Cool For Cruisin!!

[VK]

I clamped my YICS down in the vise of my Workmate and sliced through it with a Japanese flush cut hand saw in less than a minute.  Flush cut saws are very thin and take a smaller bite out of the material than a band or hack saw.  Also leaves a very smooth cut.  I tried the gasket/sealer approach, but new leak started in a week or so.  Sealed it the second time with a fuel resistant epoxy which did the trick for me.

VK

[Lucky]

The only "fear" I have with the epoxy is that if you don't get the internal seam sealed the first time, then you have to cut it open again...

[Cdnlouie]

To ensure a good seal with the epoxy is not that difficult if you have two flat surfaces and put the epoxy on both sides before joining it together.  This makes sure that there is enough epoxy on the target zone.  Again, not just a skim coat but a good solid coating.

Use the overnight stuff (J.B. weld works well for engine castings) and test it after it has set (about 1hr) by (gently) blowing into each chamber.  This will tell you if you have a complete seal before it goes to the hardening phase.

If you do it right, you will not have to do it again on a Sunday afternoon when you'd rather be driving.

You gotta love that vision ;)