Fork Bushing Replacement

[cvincer]

Have changed the fork oil seal (right hand) several times this year, & am getting fed up.  The fork stanchion (the chrome tube leg) is ok (no rust, scratches, nicks) ...... so am wondering if it is the bushing in the fork slider (see photo) that is worn, allowing the fork stanchion to move ever so slightly, & of course the rubber fork seal
cannot do the work of a bushing.

If anyone has replaced a bushing, much obliged if you could advise on the best removal method + where did you get a new one from (bushings not listed on the parts fiche I have).   Here's hoping.

[Oz Vision]

Hi Cvincer,

Just had the same issue with my XJ900 after fitting new seals. First got the tube checked to make sure it was not bent, then I shortened the spring inside the seal to make it hug tighter. Now it doesn't leak after having ridden about 100klm today. I put it down to the tube being worn down over time. The long term fix is re-chroming the tube. I am riding Brisbane - Sydney return next week, about 2,000 klm so will see how it holds.

Are you still looking for an air filter? A supplier on the Gold Coast is advertising them for $53 - will check him out tomorrow.

[Re-Vision]

You might run a search under Front Fork Bushing but the consensus seems to be that the Vision forks do not have replaceable bushings.   BDC

[YellowJacket!]

cvincer,

Which side is it from left or right?  I have a set of 82 fork tube lowers that I took off my bike when I switched to an 83 front end.  They were in very good condition and had only 5800 miles on them and did not leak at all.

If you want to pay shipping, I'd be glad to send them both or the one you need.  They are off an 82 US model so they are set up for single caliper brakes.

David

[cvincer]

Is this a great site or what?   Click a mouse & info/help/advice appear poste haste!

David YJ:-  many thanks, I might well take you up on that ..... however I'll give Ozvision's lateral thinking
idea a trial first, it seems inspired.

[Re-Vision]

Oz Vision may be right with his fix but it seems it would be simpler and cheaper to just replace the front forks.

however I'll give Ozvision's lateral thinking
idea a trial first, it seems inspired.

BDC

[George R. Young]

I would think that there would have to be a lot of slop before a loose bushing could cause a fork seal leak.

Having said that, here's a frugal suggestion to reuse the existing bushing. It consists of cutting the gap a bit bigger and dimpling the outside with a center punch, see:
http://vmaxoutlaw.com/tech/fork_stiction_tuning.htm

[cvincer]

G'day Mr George R.    That was an interesting article/link, but I couldn't grasp the concept of 'dimpling' the

bushing to make a tighter fit (& the illustration seemed to show the bushing going over a feeler gauge leaf ONTO the chrome  fork leg stanchion) ..... as after using the hacksaw, the resulting gap in the bushing would surely make it a looser fit.

                              Step 3 ...Alignment tuning:-  perhaps this is where I've been going wrong. After rebuilding the fork leg, I push it up until it is flush with the dashboard (see photo), tighten all the  bolts LIGHTLY, fit fender & wheel  ............ no pumping of the fork leg before tightening things up .......... put in oil, spring, spacer (note 16R Australasian model DOES NOT have air forks).... tighten down the bolt cap...........torque up all the fork leg securing bolts.     Days/weeks later I'm leaking oil again.

[Rikugun]

cvincer - at each punch mark material will be pushed out around the punched depression. It's this pushed out material at each punch location that effectively increases the bushings OD. This similar to what old timers did to their piston skirts with knurling.

Installing into the fork leg now requires the bushing end gap to be reduced with the hacksaw in order to keep the ends from potentially binding together.  

As Re-Vision pointed out however, the Vision forks don't utilize bushings so this conversation is academic.  :) I think the reason some Vision fork seals go away so quickly is the loose fit of the tube and lower leg on some examples. It's also responsible for the audible "clanking" some owners report while riding or braking on bumpy roads.

clarification edit: systems with bushings have one pressed in the lower leg and one on the tube. The thickness gage is added to the one around the tube to effectively increase its OD.

[cvincer]

Instead of getting the fork seal from my usual source  (Pyramid Parts  35x45x8mm), decided to get just one from a local store & shorten the spring as per OzVision.  "None in stock but we do have a 34x45x8" said the storeman.  1mm difference, & guess what it works!  The lubed chrome stanchion slipped through easily, & after 200kms still no problems.  If your new '35' doesn't do the job, try a '34'.


Digressing; 3.5yrs ago bought an el cheapo battery & its still ok, put this down to regular use of a $1
trickle charger.   If you have 'car boot sales' in your part of the world, u should be able to pick up a
12v   500ma  adapter/charger no problem.