Stator replace question

[couchflyer]

My stator tested bad, battery is not charging, and the flow chart pointed to stator. 

Do I need to replace the side cover gasket?  If so where do I get one?
Thanks

[Rick G]

While the gasket can be reused (sometimes) it would pay to have a new one handy. If you haven't done one before , be sure to have all the procedures and details fresh in your mind , to avoid complications. Your Yamaha dealer should be able to get one , or try one of the online  shops , like Bike Bandit.

[ironb12s]

As always, YMMV, but I've taken to replacing the fiber gaskets of engine covers with hi-temp RTV.  One set up, any excess can be trimmed off easily.  Most recently, I used it for the head cover of my 2002 GSF1200S.  When I replaced the timing set in my 1992 Exploder, same-same.  No fiber gaskets needed, just don't run the engine until the RTV is fully cured.  Not as quick as the fiber gasket, but there's no having the gasket get twisted or out of position either.

[h2olawyer]

I've heard of several people here buying a Vision with a siezed engine - or siezing it shortly after purchase - after someone used RTV for a gasket.  The stuff that squeezes out inside the cases can clog the oil pick-up screen.  I'd recommend against it.

Use the fiber gasket - still available from Yamaha - or call Cometic, they sell a reusable gasket for both of the engine side covers.  I got one for each side a couple years ago.  Makes the stator replacement procedure a real snap!  You can also get some gasket material and make your own if you're into that sort of thing.  Not a whole lot more $ to order one from Yamaha, though - and lots easier.

Just my $0.02

H₂O

[Rick G]

I will not use RTV anywhere it can come in contact with oil , it will degrade after contact with oil and any amount that is squeezed out in side the engine, has the potential to block an oil passage and destroy the engine .
My daughter bought a ford ranger pickup that had had some repairs done with RTV  with in a year it had scattered the engine .
I will use 3 bond to replace a gasket in an emergency , as it stays put and does not degrade.

[YellowJacket!]

H20, have you thought of replacing your side cover bolts with wing nuts?  Will make the whole process even quicker and almost tool-less. (Sorry, I just couldn't resist that)  ;D

David

[Tiger]

H20, have you thought of replacing your side cover bolts with wing nuts?  Will make the whole process even quicker and almost tool-less. (Sorry, I just couldn't resist that)  ;D

David

:) Velcro might work better... ;)

[ironb12s]

As I'd prefaced, YMMV, but I've had no trouble at all with RTV in place of the fiber gasket.  Just don't put gobs and gobs on, and you avoid any bits in the oil stream.  My GSF1200S has it in place on BOTH side covers (Clutch and Ignition) as well as the head cover.  My Exploder has it in place of the fiber on the timing cover and water pump.  And, my 240SX uses no fiber, it is ALL RTV, even has the groove for it machined into the pieces - I did the timing set replace on that 2 years ago, had to pull the oil pan too.  RTV throughout.  Not sure what kind of RTV you've been getting mixed up with, but they are not all the same.

Methinks it is judicious use of the material that avoids any problems...

[xswheels]

Methinks it is judicious use of the material that avoids any problems...

I agree, I use a small syringe to apply RTV, then wipe the surface with my finger to leave the thinnest amount. I then bolt up the parts finger tight and let the RTV set up then torque it an hour later.

[h2olawyer]

Did the stator today.  Velcro or wing nuts would be nice.   ;D  Glad I have that Cometic gasket, though.  No gasket scraping or RTV removal.  Both mating surfaces nice & clean without any work at all.   ;D  A little silicone sealant around the wires where they go through the grommets.

Put on my Electrosport R/R to see if it would work correctly again.  I removed it earlier this Summer, when it continually charged @ 17+ volts.  After I poured in the new oil and fired it up, it sat @ 14.8 volts, steady as a rock from idle through 4K RPM.  A little high, but nothing I can't live with.  If I turn on the aux lights, the volts drop to about 14 - so I can ride with them on all the time for visibility's sake and the battery will still charge & I have power for the helmet cam, GPS and other small electronics I might run.

As a little background on the last stator, I got over 2500 miles out of it.  The first 1500 was with that same Electrosport R/R.  When it started massively overcharging, I swapped back to the previous R/R.  The stator then went another 1,000 miles.  Hmmmmmm, thinks I - maybe it was the new OEM R/R I installed when the original stator died.  While the Electrosport R/R was installed, the bike ran much cooler.  It started running warmer with the replacement OEM R/R.  Another hmmmmmm.  So, I decided not to swap out the rotor this time and if the Electro R/R starts overcharging again, I'll just order another one.  Even though the last OEM R/R was new when I installed it, there may have been an internal fault from the factory causing all my stator issues.  Perhaps this setup will cure the problem.  If not, then I'll do the flywheel - I just really didn't want to do the starter clutch bolts again.  If the bike runs cooler again with this R/R, I think I may have figured out at least part of the problem.  I do have it grounded into the wiring harness AND a second ground wire running directly to the battery negative.  With the fatter main ground cable end, the connector for the battery tender, the connector for the power center and the connector for the R/R ground, it makes quite the stack on the negative battery terminal.

Will give it a 'smoke' test Sunday to see if it runs cooler and still charges at anything under 15 volts constantly.  Glad I had the spare stator waiting.  Looks like it is time to order another one, though.   ::)  Hate to be without one - even if the problem is solved.

H₂O

[Rick G]

I thought about using zippers to hold cases on ,in 1964 (no Velcro then)  Even suggested the engines should have threads like light bulbs, cut to stop where the chain would line up. 10 minuet engine change.!!

[h2olawyer]

Well, my 1 year old Electrosport R/R is most definitely fried.  (kind of thought that might be the case before I reinstalled it last night)  Back to charging @ 17 volts - and boiling my battery.   ::)  Just ordered another from Dennis Kirk.  It worked great for a few minutes test time last night and again today.  I went out to fire it up again and saw 17 volts on my gauge.  That's as high as it registers.  I didn't put my DVM on it to see where it's actually charging.  When I turn on the auxilliary lights, high beam, turn signal & brake lights, I get the voltage down to 15V @ idle.  When revved over 2K, it goes back up to 17V.

H₂O

[couchflyer]

h2olawyer, do you know why you're frying so many R/Rs?

I am thinking about a Tim Parrot stator, has anyone went this way before? results?

Thanks