Water Pump Rebuild

[h2olawyer]

Got back from mailing my taxes this afternoon and discovered coolant coming out the weep hole. ?Looks like the water pump seals need replacing. ? ::)

I seem to remember something about replacing a crank seal every time the right side cover is removed. ?Can somebody please refresh my memory? ?I'm wanting to get a parts list together tonight so I can order them tomorrow or Saturday.

The leak isn't real big but it is in need of attention & I'd like to get it done ASAP. ?Not all bad. ?My coolant return tubes have had a very small, intermittant leak ever since I installed the case guard in '84. ?At least this is a good excuse to fix that.

H2O

[Lucky]

Mechanical Seal for Water Pump


Part Number: 11H-12438-00-00
Category: Seal
Description: Mechanical Seal for Water Pump
Which year it Fits: 82-83
where purchased: Yamaha
Price\Cost: $12.48
Contact Email:
Company Website:
Submitted By: Lucky

[h2olawyer]

Thanks, Lucky I already have that number - and easy access to all part numbers.  I was wondering about a crankshaft seal that others have said needs to be replaced when the right engine case cover is removed.  I haven't taken the time to examine the schematics yet, just figured I'd ask about it first.

H2O

[Lucky]

I have the side cover in the shed..i'm thinking i might HAVE PULLED THE SEAL (oops..caps) to check the size, if so i may have lost it...or i just posted it on the other post detailing stator rplacement.. i'll have to check tomorrow.  if i have it i'll let you know the size, & yes, you must change it.

--Lucky

[h2olawyer]

Thanks again, Lucky.  I'll see what I can find out in the Yamaha manual - the Haynes isn't quite as detailed with right case cover procedures, even though the pictures are better.

Just looked at the schematics on the Yamaha site & didn't immediately see that seal on the cover diagram.  I'll look further & see what I can find.  Going to replace all the seals I can get to with that side opened up anyway.  Better safe than sorry!

H2O

[wolfman]

I have seen an occasional drip (appearance of one anyway, it never actually "drips"..just "appears" at the hole) at the weep hole on and off for nearly three years now.... I'm not in any big hurry.  It usually appears within a day or two of my initially waking the bike up after a winter nap (including this year I might add) and goes away (stops) within several weeks of fairly frequent operation. Bike does NOT use coolant, overheat or have any coolant in the oil when changed.  I'll change it when it needs changing (rest assured) but a doubt a single occasional drip is an omen of anything horrifying occuring in the near future....knock on wood!

[h2olawyer]

Wolfman -

Thanks for the info.  Mine isn't much more than a drip but it also got pretty hot when I was riding a couple weeks ago - the ambient temp was in the upper 50s.  The temp gauge showed top green & the fan didn't come on.  The fuse was blown.  Couldn't find any reason for that.  Probably did something to it when I was working with the wiring for the fairing. Replaced the fuse & fan works fine again.  Also installed a manual override for it.  

The coolant drip started right after the high heat cycle it experienced.  (Never got into the red but I could see the end of the green right at the left edge of the needle.)  It was just a small amount then, but today, it left a small amount (1-2 drops) on the garage floor.  Never showed a bit of coolant at the weep hole before - even after multi-year non-use.

Have the parts list put together, and will probably just go ahead and do it.  Not terribly expensive.  The other thing is when I did my stator last year, I must have missed getting enough Threebond in the right spots & I have a small left side case leak.  Figured I might as well do both sides as long as I'm going to be changing the oil anyway.

I've got a 450 - 500 mile trip planned on it in June and I want to be sure it's not going to give me any problems.  Not much civilization between here & Steamboat - especially the route I'm taking.  No place to get a motorcycle fixed or even to park it safely until I can retrieve it with my truck.  Should make for a good project to keep me out of trouble.  It's still too cold here to paint the fairing anyway.

H2O

[Rick G]

For some reason I have the sample  I  removed to get a new one . Its sitting on the dash of my van , I 'll be back in a few min. and give you the number. its  14 -25-5.5  and i think you have to get it from Yamaha , at least you do in Kingman , the bearing supply house can't get it.

[h2olawyer]

Thanks, Rick.  I'll check my local bearing supplier first but Yamaha's prices on these seals don't seem too bad if I can't find it elsewhere.

H2O

[fiddlesticks]

Sorry to jump on your string h20 but Im curious if anyone knows how you can tell if the mechanical seal is still good. I ask because I have the same leak and I do have a spare pump on an engine in my basement. Anyone think I can use the seal from that?

[h2olawyer]

No problem - feel free to join in.  Anything waterpump related is OK.  The only ways I know of to tell if the seal is still good is to see if it leaks while running  or tear down the right side of the engine & disassemble the pump.

A new set of all oil seals on the right engine case + the mechanical seal for the water pump runs under $30(US) from DGY, Speed & Sport or PowerSports Pro.  If you want to do the pump shaft bearing and coolant tube o-rings, add about $15 to that.  DGY has the best prices.  I think Speed & Sport has a shipping deal going on for a short time so that makes them very competitive with DGY.

Some places are showing the right case cover gasket as backordered.  ($11 - $12) if they have it or can get it.  I'll find out more from my dealer Saturday 4/16.

H2O

[EH]

I took a long flat blade screwdriver, rounded off all the points with a file. heated it till red and bent it almost 90 degrees. This tool can be placed inside the water pump area and placed against the seal to tap it out of the cover without damage. No special Yamaha tool needed.

[h2olawyer]

Good "tip". ?Thanks, EH. ?However, as long as new seals are available, I'm not going to reuse any of them. ?Rather know they are all in new condition as long as I'm tearing into it anyway. ?Scrimping on a $2 - $5 part seems like false economy to me. ?I will wait until the parts arrive before proceeding - just in case some parts aren't available.

Also, the seals have been in there since new & 23 years in the dry climate of Colorado hasn't done them any good - especially since it has experienced a few long-term storage periods.

[h2olawyer]

Ordered the parts today.  My local dealer was within $3 of the lowest web price (DGY).  Peace of mind may come at a price but this wasn't too bad at all.  Got all the oil seals listed in the right case cover (including crankshaft seal) & waterpump schematics, the mechanical pump seal, a right cover gasket, a left cover gasket & shift shaft seal.  Might as well cure the small leak from last year's stator replacement while I'm tearing things apart anyway.

Took a ride to test the 83 shock I installed yesterday.  The seepage was there at the beginning of the ride but seems to have stopped or slowed significantly.  Still going to do the repair.  Never leaked before & the volume of coolant leaking was more than I feel comfortable leaving to see if it will cure itself.

The 83 shock is an amazing upgrade.  Sure feels more firmly planted to the road & gives a much higher confidence level in the twisties!  ;D  Can't believe the improvement.  Expected it to be noticeable, but I was very pleasantly surprised.

[h2olawyer]

Got all the parts for the waterpump rebuild last week.  While I was waiting for them to arrive, I was talking to a relative who used to own a Gold Wing.  He said he had the same problem of a weeping waterpump.  He tried waterpump seal conditioner - NOT stop leak (I wouldn't do that anyway) - and it stopped the weeping.  I tried it & as of now, the weeping has slowed dramatically.

Went for a good ride this evening & had maybe one drop in an hour's ride.  Much improved.  Think I'll let that stuff do it's trick for a while & then decide whether or not to put the seals in, depending on whether or not it finally clears up.

While I was ordering parts, I also got the shift shaft seal & left side gasket to cure the leak from last year's stator replacement.  Switching from full synthetic to semi-synth oil & getting everything sealed up, I have no more leak!  8)

H2O

[louthepou]

A leak free Vision? Proposterous!

Silly, the oil leaks, it's the famous YAARS, Yamaha's Automatic Anti-Rust System!

Louis (who obviously needs coffee)

[Tdub]

Something I have always done when replacing waterpump seals is to change the shaft as well. The seal tends to wear a small groove in it.
I have sent a full set of gaskets(head/base/side covers/etc) to Cometic. They should be available soon. Tdub

[h2olawyer]

Yes, a truly leak-free V!  (except for the decreasing coolant drip from the waterpump)  Just like it was before the stator repair.  ;D  Leak could have been enhanced while I was running full synthetic oil.  Went to a semi-synth after resealing the left case cover & grommets.  Three rides & 80 miles later, no drips or signs of oil on the bottom of the engine.

Tdub - thanks for the info on the waterpump shaft.  My V has about 8,000 miles so I don't think it is a problem yet.  However, finding problems like that is why I'd like to get it through this season and do the repair correctly next winter.  I will make sure to note a pump shaft examination in my manual so I'll remember to give it a thorough look.

H2O

[jasonm.]

The crank seal in the cover is #93101-14089. There is an oil seal also in the water pump assy that MUST be replaced with the mechanical water seal. 3 seals total in that cover.

[h2olawyer]

Jason -

Thanks, got all the seals, gaskets & orings when I sent for the mechanical seal.  Looked at all schematics & got every small part that I could access and replace - when the right side case cover is removed.  Appreciate the backup.

H2O