Is there a way to test the YICS box?

Started by TheRadBaron, July 29, 2011, 09:26:07 PM

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TheRadBaron

July 29, 2011, 09:26:07 PM
When I got my basket case '82 Vision, the YICS box had been bypassed and the jets were all wacky sizes in the carbs.  I put the jetting back to stock and I'd like to kook the YICS back up.  The YICS box/cannister came with the bike.  Is there a way to test these unit to see if they're good or not?  Thanks.
The desire for safety stands against every great and noble enterprise. -Tacitus

Lucky

#1
July 29, 2011, 10:52:44 PM
yup on my site:
http://www.xz550.com/YICS.html

Since i've written that page, i'd suggest a couple of changes:
tap the corners with a hammer till it splits open. you'll have to hit it harder than you think is safe...

you should end up with a tounge & grove set up.  clean it out well, use red RTV to seal it back together & clamp it for a day or 2 while the RTV dries & sets.

--Lucky
1982/3 XZ550 Touring Vison, Gold on Black

QBS

#2
July 29, 2011, 11:47:57 PM
Lucky, would Gorilla Glue be good for sealing a YICS unit?  It seem like really tough stuff.

Extent

#3
July 30, 2011, 04:44:05 AM
Doesn't matter how strong it is if it's not fuel safe.  If it won't be damaged by gas and it'll bond to the plastic then it's probably ok at least to try.
Rider1>No wonder, the Daytona has very sharp steering and aggressive geometry.  It's a very difficult bike for a new rider.
Rider2>Well it has different geometry now.

67GTO

#4
July 30, 2011, 05:51:12 PM
I need to replace the hoses, What size and type should I ask for?
" Like a dream he flies away, no more to be found,
banished like a Vision of the night."
                                                Job 20:8    NIV

Night Vision

#5
July 31, 2011, 08:43:48 PM
I used black fuel line
if it ain't worth doing it the hard way....
it ain't worth doing it at all - Man Law
;D


if it ain't broke..... take it apart and find out why


don't give up.... don't ever give up - Jimmy Valvano

Rikugun

#6
August 02, 2011, 09:16:30 PM
Getting back to the "which sealer to use question" ...
I was under the impression no RTV product will hold up to fuel. Anyone have a better suggestion?

Has anyone ever tried "gasket shellac" (in the little brown bottle), to glue up their YICS? Here's another I've heard of but not personally tested: "Seal-All Glue"
http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/reviews/SealAllGlueReview.htm
It is far better to grasp the universe as it really is then to persist in delusion, however satisfying or reassuring.  Carl Sagan

Lucky

#7
August 03, 2011, 09:23:16 AM Last Edit: August 03, 2011, 09:30:59 AM by Lucky
I use power steering return line hose. it's a little thicker than fuel line, but stiffer.  if you have kinking problems put a spring over the hose where it bends.

I use "Seal-All" to repair 2 cycle guel tanks. it is fuel proof, but it's more of a sealer & not very "strong"  i wouldn't trust it for stressed applications, it's kind of rubbery.  

Red RTV or Dirco seems to work well as long as it doesn't need to be really thick.  the last one i resealed i added a thin strip of galvanized sheet metal, maybe 1/4" deep to the center divider. iirc i routed out the chanel slightly with a dremil as well. 

I dont use the gasket on my page any more.  that one is still in Tourer, & seems to have held up well though.
1982/3 XZ550 Touring Vison, Gold on Black

Protonus

#8
August 03, 2011, 12:38:17 PM
Lucky or others:  You mention hitting it with a hammer till it pops open, revealing a tongue and groove setup.  I saw somewhere else, someone suggesting soaking it in hot water till it popped apart.  Doesn't this mean it's glued together stock then?   If that's the case, then a few seconds in boiling water should just let it pop apart, no? 
Also, is the center "rib" between halves, also tongue and groove?  If so, this seems like a much better option then cutting it open, as it would promote a much better seal.

How about just using "plastic welding" 2 part epoxy instead of RTV?  Should be a lot more rigid than RTV.  Anyone tried this? 

As far as line's, I think the best choice here, is braided steel AN line.  It's much thicker and reinforced than standard lines, shouldn't "pulsate" nearly as much and it should last forever. And it will look a lot nicer ;-)  When I make my replacement YICS box, i'm going to have AN weld on fittings, TIG'd onto the chambers, so that standard AN line can be screwed onto it, then just hoseclamped onto the head. 

Does anyone know if the hose barbs on the heads for the YICS ports, are threaded?  If so, do you know what thread they are?  I'd like to screw in like NPT to AN adaptors into the head so it could be standard AN fittings at both ends... that would be great. 

I plan on fixing a YICS chamber soon to use on my bike, then, also making an aluminum replacement.  Going to get my replacement dyno tested vs. the fixed stock one, vs. none at all...

1982 with full '83 fairings

Lucky

#9
August 03, 2011, 01:22:03 PM
don't cut it open.

never heard of the hot water thing... banging it with a hammer, while barbaric, seems to work well.
the fittings in the head are pressed in.  You could tap & thread for fittings, you'd probably want to pull the head though... I have steel braided on my Oil cooler

Epoxy might work, not sure if a certain amount of flexiblity (RTV) would be better or not... 
1982/3 XZ550 Touring Vison, Gold on Black

Kevin

#10
August 04, 2011, 12:02:53 AM
The hot water is my method. I couldn't bring myself to fixing it with a hammer.
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