I did the o-ring replacement thing on the coolant pipe that was leaking coolant. I replaced the coolant and started the engine and no more coolant leak. Now, I noticed that the temp gauge was in the red seconds after starting her up. Oh no! I shut off the engine and backed up the bike down my driveway to see what would happen when I rode it. The temp gauge went down from red when I got her going and went down to 1/4 to 1/2. But then when I stopped at a stop sign, she would go back up to red again and then drop back down again when I got going again. I've never seen this happen before. I know the engine is not overheating at start up. I'm not going to try anything yet and see how she runs on a longer ride this weekend. Anyone come across this before? Is the thermostat trying to tell me something?
did you "burp" the cooling system? ... tank off, undo the 12 or 13mm bolt on the temp sending unit, filler up from the top down... clean those electrical connections while you're in there...
All I do on mine is to leave the radiator cap off and run the engine until its completely warmed up and starts to overflow from the radiator neck , then I cap it . Works every time.
I use a tiny funnel & fill it through the burp bolt hole. It's worked four times so far - no burping! I think it's easier than getting to the filler cap with the fairing on.
H2O
Quote from: h2olawyer on November 08, 2007, 01:37:03 AM
...I use a tiny funnel & fill it through the burp bolt hole. H2O
:) I use a syringe and top it up through the burp bolt hole... 8) and if your "naked", Rick G's method work's well to... ;)
8).......TIGER....... 8)
Yeah, if ya haven't definitely clean those connectors. :P No fun havin' a dead battery because your sensors suddenly decides your bike fan needs a marathon at 7am. ::)
Mine has the fairing , but I trimmed the shield that prevents you from removing the cap unless you first remove the rad. cover. Makes it much easier and I'm not much on big bro protecting me from my self! ;D
After trying running the engine with the radiator cap off and letting the coolant overflow, the temp gauge was still acting funny. I looked as much as I could at the thermostat area (gas tank still on) and saw a green wire that was loose, actually disconnected from where it should be connected to. Okay, I will be forced to remove the gas tank. Is this a job for a total newbie? I will consult the Haynes manual and give it a shot. I do have images of gas spilling all over the place when I attempt to remove the tank. Wish me luck.
With the petcock in ON or RES it shouldn't send fuel everywhere, maybe just a bit left at the connection to the main hose. Drain the bowls of the carbs beforehand, and you shouldn't spill fuel at all when the tank comes off.
Tank removal is simple.
Set petcock to RUN
Remove fuel line from petcock
Remove vacuum line from petcock
Remove bolt @ rear of tank
Lift rear of tank & wiggle it a bit (gently) while pulling it toward the rear of the bike.
Lift tank off.
To get to the coolant tubes, you need to remove the airbox as well.
Disconnect the oil breathers from each cylinder to the airbox
Disconnect vacuum lead from front carb to airbox top (should be a splice about 1/2 way along the line)
Take top off airbox (4 screws)
Lift airbox base off carbs (may need to loosen the clamps @ the carbs - underneath the airbox)
You can reach the coolant lines & temp sensor area at this point. You should see where the wire connects. There is also a bleed bolt on this housing. Remove the bolt & burp the cooling system.
H2O
H2O, why remove the top of the airbox??
Also, you may still have the rubber strap that holds the airbox down (many have gone AWOL over the years) take that off, & if you have an 83, be sure to unplug the fuel guage connector from the rear of the tank as well.
The 'green' wire should actually be a green wire with a red tracer (stripe) this goes from the sensor in the coolant block under the tank directly to the temp guage. the blue with a green tracer goes to the fan relay. make sure both connections are clean & tight. handle them with care they are expensive to replace unless someone has one off a parts bike.
--Lucky
I remove the top of the airbox because when I reinstall it, I can't get the bottom of the airbox over the carbs without removing the top. The soft velocity stacks will push right out of the housing in the airbox bottom if I don't put some downward pressure on them while moving them around a bit. Easier to remove the top while it is still mounted to the bike than wrestling with it & its uneven surfaces on a workbench or the floor. Yes, I have used wd-40 as a lube for the stacks, but they still don't slip easily over the carbs.
H2O
if they are pushing out of the bottoms of the airbox they are oil soaked & mushy, I would replace them...
The velocity stacks have done that on mine since the first time I took the airbox off back in '84. They are in the same condition now as they were then. They've never had the clamps on them since I bought it. Maybe they hold the stacks in better position or stiffen them enough to install them. Whatever, I've always had to take the airbox apart to reinstall it. I have a pair of clamps on my 83 airbox & will keep them when I switch over to the 83 carbs / airbox.
H2O
H2O, sounds like your bike got the carb update. But someone left the clamps off. Go to the Yamaha online site to look it up. All bikes have the clamps in this area. Or the airbox is so oil soaked that they just slip out. But the clamp would help to stop that.
http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/myyamaha/prompt/L3Nwb3J0L3BhcnRzL2hvbWUuYXNweA==/Parts%20Catalog/starthere.aspx
The clamps were left off when the update was done. I knew that after I goy my Haynes manual in the late 80s. Dealer told me the carb upgrade was completed before I bought it. I've got a set of clamps that came on an 83 airbox i won on eBay earlier this year. The airbox is not oily at all. It was oily only once, when I overfilled the oil a bit. It's always been part of my airbox removal to take it apart for easier reinstallation. I know the clamps would help keep the stacks in place but this gives me an excuse to check the air filter on a more regular basis. I did forget to mention the airbox rubber strap removal - Silver V has it, but it's missing on both Tractor & partsbike.
I'll worry about the clamps when I get the 83 fuel system installed this winter. I've just never found the airbox separation to be that big a deal. Only takes a couple minutes & you can see if the airbox is oily or the filter needs service.
By the way, the clamps are no longer available from Yamaha - haven't been for years. Tried to order a set in the early 90s & was told they were a no go way back then.
H2O
My God. You have not had the clamps all these years? :-[ That means you have had air leak since day one. Your air filter has not been given a chance to filter...
Quote from: h2olawyer on November 24, 2007, 10:59:38 PM
By the way, the clamps are no longer available from Yamaha - haven't been for years. Tried to order a set in the early 90s & was told they were a no go way back then.
H2O
there are some on eBay.. pretty cheap if I recall... or I could dig around and see if I have some
H2O, I have an extra set of clamps if you need them. Let me know if you want them.
David
The stacks fit nice & tight - that's why they push through the airbox when I try to slide them over the carbs. They're still like new - very pliable. No gaps anyplace & there's a step where the stack slides over the carb. Air filters have been getting dirty over the years. I've never worried about it. They fit much better than any auto air cleaner I've had over carbs. I just don't see any problem - beyond the little extra time to remove / install the airbox.
Thanks for the offer, Dave - as I wrote in an earlier post, I have a set of clamps on the stacks in my 83 airbox which is going on this winter with the rest of the 83 fuel system. I mentioned the unavailability from Yamaha as explanation of why I never got any new ones.
Thanks for your concern, everyone, but give it a rest already! It AINT a big deal.
H2O
We just want your bike to be perfect! ;D ;D
--Lobster Lucky
:o
H20 I think you should seriously reconsider your choice to operate this finely tuned piece of road machinery without them. This can adversely affect the future performance and may cause premature stator failure as well.
Yeah, probably fry that stator to a crisp.
Wouldn't be the first one!
Maybe it gets as red as it sounds like Lucky got this weekend!
H2O