Riders Of Vision

Hey everybody,

I've got an '82 with a clunky starter clutch... Does anybody know what thread and length of bolts to buy so that they are long enough to peen the threads and fix the issue? How many bolts are needed? Red or blue loctite?

I haven't gotten into it yet, but I don't want to really have the bike down with the engine case open overnight while I go to the hardware store, you know? I'd rather get the bolts first and do it all in one setting.

Any tips, or are the instructions on xz550.com good enough?

Thanks!

You need three (3) M8x1.25 metric allen socket type bolts of 8 to 12 hardness.  Wish I knew (or remembered) the length.  Somewhere between 1.25 & 2.5 inches if I recall.  Most of us have bought ones that are too long and cut them down to fit.  Hopefully, someone has done them more recently than I & will help in selecting the correct length.

The instructions on Lucky's site (xz550.com) are good - they're what I used.  The flywheel will come off easier with a pneumatic impact gun on the puller - if you have one available.  Otherwise, use the puller & hammer method as described in the instructions.

Good luck.  If you get stuck, don't hesitate to stop & ask here for more info.  It isn't a very difficult operation, just a bit scary to go after the puller with the large hammer.

H₂O

 :) M8 x 16mm soc' head cap screws, RED loctite and you will need a left side engine cover gasket...available at your Yamaha dealer or buy gasket material and make one (which is what I do!!). Put an old rug/bath towel on the floor to catch the flywheel/springs/roller, etc when it comes off. DO NOT TRY TO CATCH IT!!!

               

Draw up as close an approximation or the left side gasket as you can on a piece of cardboard before you start removing screws.  Then, as you remove the screws, stick them through the cardboard pattern at the same location that they came from on the engine.  The screws are of various lengths and occupy very specific locations.  The best bet for the first timer is to get an OEM gasket before screw removal to use to make the pattern.  Grease up both sides of the gasket before installing it, and it can be reused several times.

You can make  a template to record witch screw goes where, but  all screws on Japanese motorcycles  are about 1/4 inch proud before you start to turn them. If a screw is proud much more than that or if the head touches the case , its in the wrong hole ! I haven't used a template in over 45 years.

Well,,, have you done it yet?? While youre in there,, check your balancer gear and your timing gear for looseness,,,, I had to tighten mine.. you fold the tabs down with a "suitable drift",, only one on mine originally.. and tighten ,, then fold tabs back up to lock it.. I used both tabs to lock it back up... Luckys site was what I used for reference too..  need to get one of those DVDs from him.. Its got all that stuff on there, and more..

Amen to Rick's advise about which screw goes where. When I was a pro level dealership mechanic, that's how we did it to work quickly. The screws came out quickly with our air wrenches, then got tossed in a box or a pile on the lift. The name of that game is Fix it right/Fix it fast. The only point I'd add is that during reassembly start with the longest screws first, look for the holes that are deepest and stick a long screw in there. You'll see how they fit and know when it's right by how "proud" they are...ie: how far they go into the hole. It is the simplest way.

If you don't like that method, don't bother with a template, try this - pick a reference point for one of the screws, memorize it, then lay the screws down next to each other in a clockwise sequence on a clean rag or paper towel. For reassembly start with your reference point screw and then stick them in the holes in clockwise sequence. The one with the clutch cable's wire guide is a good reference point on the Vision's alt cover.

Revitalising an old thread! Finally I have stripped down my starter clutch after being terrified every time I started the bike in case that awful clunk reappeared. It was getting worse.

It just so happens that my mate has a Seca Turbo with the same starter clutch setup and he's a very  experienced motorbike mechanic.

What I learned today. - Dont simply put in the new springs and rollers that come with the "Repair kit". Chances are, they will not be the problem and not change anything much.

1. Feel around the starter gear ring where the rollers connect. Is smooth or are there tiny ridges where the rollers have dented the surface? Brians solution. Have an auto engineer repair the surface. The best way to do this is grind off about half the old ring and then shrink a suitably sized inner bearing race on to the stub. Grind the new outer surface down to about 1mm larger than the old surface.

2. To be continued