Riders Of Vision

 :) "The Mistress" runs really well, even on hot days. However, if I'm "in town" riding, the temp' gauge needle will run right up to within a needles width from the highest point in the GREEN...which is when the fan kicks in. The fan will maintain the gauge at the same point in stop-start traffic. However, she 'leans' out and won't maintain a steady idle and has a stumble problem... ::) Once back on the open road, she cools back down to the mid range point and runs just fine.

I was in one of the local bike stores today and came across this product: Engine Ice, Race technology, high performance coolant. It claims to run cooler, is nontoxic, biodegradable, phosphate free and protects to 356f... 8) It also claims to reduce operating temperatures by as much as 50f (10c).
It is premixed with Deionized water and ready to use. You have to flush out all the coolant completely and then refill with Engine Ice...It's not expensive at $20.00 for a 1/2 gallon  ;)

Anyone have any experience with this product... ??? Comments please...

                 

I've been running Engine Ice for a few years.  It did help my V run a little cooler, but I still have the same problems you describe with idle & stumble issues at low speed / stop & go situations.  Gets really bad at 12,000 ft.!  Personally, I think it is the carbs getting heat soaked and boiling the fuel in the fuel bowls, causing some vapor lock.  There is only so much the coolant can do to dissipate heat without more airflow.  I can delay the onset with the manual fan switch, running the fan full time, when I'm in the slower situations.

But, out on the open road - at speeds over 45MPH - the temp gauge stays just left of straight up.

It isn't too expensive, but I needed 2 bottles to fill the V's cooling system, so that took the cost to more than buying 3 quarts of Yamacool.

I plan to keep using Engine Ice as it is less toxic (propylene glycol) as opposed to typical ethylene glycol based coolants and it is allowed on the go-kart track I ride on from time to time.

Another option is Water Wetter (from Red Line Oils).  I have no experience with that product, but it can be added to plain water or to ethylene glycol.  They claim to lower operating temps as well.

Engine Ice lowered my bike's running temp, but not by a bunch.  Haven't investigated to see how much cooler I'm running, but I did see a little change on the gauge - it used to stay just to the right of pointing straight up - now, just to the left.

It definitely won't hurt anything to run it.  And, it will delay the onset of the heat related problems but it won't eliminate them.

Hope this helps you make a decision.

H₂O

I've not used it but fortunately for me, YJ is relatively cool natured.  One of the things that I have that most Visions don't (but I actually think you do, John) is the plastic shield that fits over the front cylinder and attaches to the frame.  It supposedly aids in keeping the carbs cool.

I read Lucky's post about the tank insulator and I have mixed feelings about it.  Presently I don't have any insulation on my tank and thought about doing it but, the stuff he used is "reflective" which , IMHO, would increase the temp of the air around the carbs.  I'm probably wrong but thats my current thought.

You mentioned a fan switch which of course, couldn't hurt anything as long as you remember to turn it off after you dismount.  YJ used to have a fan switch but it was wired to run all the time...even when the ignition was off.  I removed it and put things back to notmal and after particularly warm rides, YJ's fan will come on for a bit AFTER the ignition is turned off...which is how it should.

I guess in any case, anything that helps improve the dissipation of heat will help your situation.  Its either going to be a 40.00 fix or a free one...or both.

I've wondered before, and I think I read about it in the old original ROV newsletters, about making something to "guide" more air in under the tank.  Butm that would only help if the bike is moving.  I have noticed on hotter days that I can smell more gas vapors and have tracked that down to the vent tubes on my carbs.

Just some random thoughts.

David

I was riding in very hot temperatures today and noticed the same as tiger.I also smelled gas as well so obviously this is very common.I took her for a spin tonight and never smelled a thing.My spedo cable came loose while riding though.

I had the same shite too yesterday on my way home.  The digital temp gauge I have on the fairing lip showed that it was 40C.  Really not that uncomfortable when you are moving a bit.  Well about half way home the bike just started to hunt for the idle while stopped at a light and I thought that I might be running shy of fuel as I was at 197 kms into my fuel usage.  So I put it to reserve and went on.  Then next lights and she stalled.  Wouldn't start after cranking her 3 or 4 times.  So I had to duck waddle her across 2 lanes as I was in the left most lane.  Put the petcock on prime and waited a minute and she really had a hard time starting.  Even backfired a few times and herd the usual starter clutch clang when running down on voltage.  So I decided to fill her up with fresh fuel and only put 10L into her, so I still had about 7L left.  Fired her back up and re-adjusted the idle and went home.  She never really idled right but I think it's just like the rest of you said that it is heat in the carbs screwing with me.

We have got to figure out some sort of ducting that can be used to cool the carbs better.  Maybe even install some small fans to force cool them thru the ducting.

Havent had that problem with the 83. 106* in Laughlin NV with rick (uhg, heat) still idling and running fine. Not alot of fuel either, now that i think about it.

Robert, could it be your fuel cap vent was clogged or stuck?

David

Dave, I had to resort to going back to using my red STANT cap that used before.  Not sure if it is venting correctly but at least the fuel isn't spewing out of it.  I came to work this morning with the same red cap on it and had no problems at all.  I just had to re-adjust the idle again because I cranked it too high yesterday.  It was showing 3000 RPM after the motor has been run for a minute, which is my commute to the second STOP sign before I hit the main boulevard.  After re-adjusting it to about 1400 RPM-ish it ran fine all the way to work.

I am thinking that vapour lock is most likely the culprit because I get hard starting after she has been run for a good while.

Either that or a vacuum leak.  Also, you have a YICS on your bike?  Could be a leaking YICS.

david

Quote from: Tiger on July 05, 2010, 08:05:03 PM
It also claims to reduce operating temperatures by as much as 50f (10c).

Sorry for the nit pick Tiger, but when you're talking about differential temperatures you don't subtract the 32.  So 50f difference is 28 c difference.

Brian

Quote from: Brian Moffet on July 06, 2010, 12:57:23 PM

Quote from: Tiger on July 05, 2010, 08:05:03 PM
It also claims to reduce operating temperatures by as much as 50f (10c).

Sorry for the nit pick Tiger, but when you're talking about differential temperatures you don't subtract the 32.  So 50f difference is 28 c difference.

Brian

:) Not a problem Brian...however, I quoted right off of the product container label... ;)

Quote from: Tiger on July 06, 2010, 06:01:44 PM
:) Not a problem Brian...however, I quoted right off of the product container label... ;)

That, is very sad....

 :) I took the bull by the horns last night... :o ;)

The fairing lowers were removed, rad cowl removed, bottom rad hoses disconnected, etc, etc and the coolant was completely flushed out of the system...sad really as it was only a few weeks old ::)

It was replaced with the Blue coloured Engine Ice that I purchased. It is already to use, no diluting, etc. The system was run and 'burped off'. Also drained the engine oil and changed the oil filter. I decided to use IPON 10-40 semi-synthetic instead of my usual Castrol 10w40 motorcycle oil. So, "The mistress" is once again, good to go... 8)

I'll let you all know how this works out... ;)

             

Curious as to who makes IPON 10-40 or is that a brand?    BDC

someone removed the thermostat and had luck if I ever ride much again and have that issue as I did 20+yrs ago thats what I am thinkin of doin

 :) Well, I have to admit, $40.00 plus tax for two 1/2 gallon bottles  and I'm not impressed ::) I think the normal, everyday, common garden variety 60/40 mix coolant/water is just as good, if not better... ::) However, it will stay in the system until the end of the season ;)

Quote from: Re-Vision on July 07, 2010, 06:50:52 PM
Curious as to who makes IPON 10-40 or is that a brand?    BDC

:) Its imported from France...

         

QuoteIts imported from France...

Well, that explains the cost - it's made with Perrier.  :D