Ok this may sound stupid,,,How do you change out the shims to adjust the valves. I cant imagine that I have to measure the clearance and then remove the cams,,,, Whats this adjuster tool and how is it used.
I cant be the only one wondering.
There is a special tool that allows you to remove the shims for valve adjustment /
Many bikes, including the Kwaker KLR650 require the removal of the cams to change the shims.
Right, But what I dont get is how is this tool used? Seems it wraps around the cam, And pops the shim out? I really need a clear picture if this before I buy or borrow a tool. Otherwise its old school and I pull the cams. Which seems like a lot of work if it can be avoided
There are clear instructions and pictures in the Haynes manual
The tool slips onto the hex section of the cam and as the cam is rotated it depresses the buckets the shims ride in, which gives some clearance between the shims and cam lobes. Then you have to pick the shims out of the bucket to change them. MEASURE THE CLEARANCE AND WRITE IT DOWN FOR EACH VALVE - BEFORE - REMOVING ANY SHIMS.
Thanks for the info, looks like I gotta get one of them Haynes manuals and a adjuster tool.
I've got the valve clearance specs. I'm pulling valve covers tomorrow one of my bikes
Is only running on the front cylinder, I've got gas and spark to the rear jug
And checked compression today it's 110 on a cold engine Seems like the only other problem could be
Something going on with the valves, exhaust valves not opening?
I don't know this should interesting to find the problem.
It seems unlikely the motor could be spun over to check compression if the exhaust valves weren't opening? Unless the cam lobes were missing or something equally wacked!? :o
Did you try switching the coils front to back to see if the that reversed the dead cylinder? Just because the plug sparks outside the cylinder is no guarantee it will spark under compression. Maybe a different plug too if you try this test.
Have not tried the switheroo on the coils good thought, I will try that. Anything to not have to mess with the valves. I dont think its a rod bearing it has 120 psi when cold and doesnt make any weird noises when its running just runs like a 250 rather then the 550 that it is.I can pull the spark plug wire on the rear while its idling and it doesnt change the rpm, This is how I used to test V-8s to find a weak cylinder. Im going to swap the coils today and see, Maybe there is a weak coil but really IT has great crisp spark out of the wire and plug. I really dont want to have a valve problem. We shall see.
Years ago I took my bike in for a tune-up at a Ft. Worth Yamaha Dealer and when I got it back it wouldn't go faster than 55mph. Finally got the dealer I bought it from to correct the timing for the rear cylinder as it was firing both cylinders on the same revolution. If you don't know the history of your bike, you might consider timing problems. BDC
Sweet this is the type of ideas I need. Ive got a busy day checking this stuff out thanks guys.
It seems to have adequate compression and if spark turns out to be ok I'd consider carbs again. You mentioned at idle it runs on one cylinder, how about when you rev it up? Does the other want to kick in? Did you try test running it with the YICS disconnected and the vacuum ports plugged?
What is the history of the bike? Has it sat for long or was it running fine one day then on one cylinder the next?
Quote from: stuckinlodi on March 04, 2012, 12:05:59 PM
just runs like a 250 rather then the 550 that it is.I can pull the spark plug wire on the rear while its idling and it doesn't change the rpm,
I've had the same problem in the past...but have never had a coil go sour on a Vision... :-\ If you run the revs up around 4,000/4,500 rpm does the rear cylinder cut in/splutter and try and cut in??
Two easy things to do...
1 - Change the spark plugs out for a new set... ;)
2 - If you have a good spare TCI, swap it out and fire her up... :o
I'm betting on one of these two.... :police:
8) ....... TIGER ....... 8)
:P You may need new plug wires/caps if you still have the oem ones installed!!
Thanks guys, It was the spark plug wire,,,,, Sparked fine with the screw driver test and when I held the plug to ground. When I installed in the cylinder it was grounding out on the frame. Changed out the wire and this thing rips. It was last registered in "86" shows 12000 on the clock. I really want to make it a rider rather then a parts bike,,,,,Ive just recently gotten into these bikes and can say they are super impressive, Really nice handling and good power.
Great news, glad to hear she's running well! ;D
Better price.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Valve-Shim-Adjustment-Tool-XZ550-Vision-Motorcycle-04075-K-L-35-3470-New-/330694663141?hash=item4cfef01be5&item=330694663141&pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr#ht_500wt_1180
BDC
Quote from: Re-Vision on March 04, 2012, 12:21:12 PM
Finally got the dealer I bought it from to correct the timing for the rear cylinder as it was firing both cylinders on the same revolution.
??? more details?
Don't have any. BDC
Re-Vision - that's a good price. Weren't they going for $60 or more from some sellers?
They still are asking $69.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-XZ550-VISION-VALVE-SHIM-TOOL-1982-1983-/220951579469?hash=item3371bd8b4d&item=220951579469&pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr#ht_1285wt_1163
BDC
RV, how did the dealer adjust the timing? I'm curious because the ignition pick up coils that tell the TCI box when to do its' thing are fixed to the engine with screws and are therefore not adjustable. BTW, V plugs are supposed to fire together. It's called a "wasted spark" system.
Quote from: QBS on March 05, 2012, 04:05:38 PM
BTW, V plugs are supposed to fire together. It's called a "wasted spark" system.
Actually, they're not suppose to fire together. They are supposed to fire at TDC for each cylinder, even on the exhaust stroke. That's the waster spark. If you have both front and rear cylinder fire together, one of those would be firing way early and cause pre-detonation.
At the time I wasn't interested in the mechanical end of things and I wasn't happy with the work I was getting from the dealer where I bought the bike. I took it to a dealer in Ft. Worth thinking the big city boys would know what they were doing. Ha. When I got my bike back and went home it would barely do 55mph. They refused to be responsible for my poorly running machine so I took it back to my dealer in Mineral Wells,TX. The dealers son finally got it to running right again and told me it was firing one cylinder at the wrong time. That was a long time ago, took it back to Yamaha West in Ft. Worth and told them what had been found, they kindly offered me a free tune-up the next time in lieu of a refund. I politely asked them why I should give such incompetent bastards an opportunity to screw-up my bike again. I sincerely hope I had a hand in putting them out of business. BDC
I wonder if it was simply running on only one cylinder. That would certainly explain the power loss and would be easy to accomplish with just a bad plug wire or the like.
Correct Brian. Should have thought it out more fully. I know better.