I was wondering how many of us would be doing the same projects and upgrades, might be an opportunity to determine the best parts supplier and best prices as well as potential savings on shipping if we combined our order. I'm thinking of master cylinder and wheel cylinder kits and possibly stainless brake lines for an 83. Not all M/C kits seem to have the window, anyone know where to get the glass? BDC
Amazon for 1.25 plus shipping.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00065CPBG/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00
Looks like this would be a good item to buy several of, anyone else needing an M/C window?
Sunburnedaz, were you aware of this Vision?
http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/mcy/3506680910.html
BDC
Holy $@#&! That's a cheap parts bike, regardless of what might be wrong with it. If I had the space to store it, I'd be all over that (provided sunburned didn't want dibs :) ). Figures something like that would crop up when I'm not in a position to take advantage...
I saw one on C-list a couple weeks ago that didn't run but I think they wanted like 1,500 for it. Crazy.
I'll be getting a stainless steel brake line soon, but I'm good on the MC glass.
You didn't come to mind when I thought of AZ ROVers but I figured anyone close to a deal like that might want to take advantage of it. BDC
I thought about it , but its 175 miles from here. Maybe not.
Rick, don't torture yourself! :o You allready have a shed full of bikes and parts you can't even get to! :)
Quote from: Re-Vision on January 26, 2013, 07:26:03 AM
Looks like this would be a good item to buy several of, anyone else needing an M/C window?
Sunburnedaz, were you aware of this Vision?
http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/mcy/3506680910.html
BDC
Yup I called them about it its in a breaker yard and they dont like to sell whole bikes.
That's true , Rik. Maybe some of you would like to stock up on parts , I have great prices and need to make room in the shed
This link to Amazon for the lens is dead. NEXT?
What adhesive would be appropriate for installing a lens in the master cylinder? Exposed directly to brake fluid, ya know.
Perhaps you could find a spec sheet for these suggestions........
Thanks. I was hoping someone would already know of a suitable adhesive. Somewhere in the automotive/industrial world someone knows what is appropriate for bonding glass to metal (that's not the hard part) that is in contact with automotive brake fluid (that's the hard part). I would prefer not to guess. Maybe I will try some tests of various materials : RTV silicon, vinyl adhesive, cyanoacrylate, ?
I just searched for "motorcycle brake master cylinder sight glass" and a whole mess of them popped up. I think it is 18mm. I bought mine this way and it was easy to install and worked perfectly. I had two but when I sold my bike the second one went with it.
The window on my master cylinder measures .665" or 16.5mm. with my calipers.
Is that just the clear window or the diameter of the entire insert? Mine was a standard size. The window has a metal frame around it and there is an o-ring that sits behind it in the MC to seal against leaks.
Well, it appears I have more investigating to do. I did not know the sight glass was as complicated. Frame? I will dig into it a bit deeper. Thanks.
WOW! 18mm! I put a small socket on the inside of the master cylinder reservoir (behind the slotted plate), and a disfigured washer on the outside, and water pump pliers, a couple tries and the 'capsule' popped out! Thanks for the information and encouragement, I learned something.
I just ordered some sight glass units on e-Bay (from China). They are the 'capsule' with sealed lens and 'rubber' sealing ring. It seems they all come from the same city and all look alike in the pics on display on the eBay site. There are many 'offers' to choose from, though they all appear like the same manufacture. I suspect a plastic lens. I should receive a couple of them delivered to my mailbox for less than $10 including shipping.
Yes, just the way I got mine. While I was there I striped and painted the MC with epoxy black I got from Eastwood. If you get epoxy it is best to paint a whole bunch of things so you use the whole can. After activating it has a limited pot life.
Insomnia struck as I was waiting for parts and I thought about building a wiring harness. Never touched one before but the old owner had an extra one so maybe I can label everything first while connected and generate a plan from there?
Quote from: MoVision on January 04, 2022, 10:36:02 AM
Insomnia struck as I was waiting for parts and I thought about building a wiring harness. Never touched one before but the old owner had an extra one so maybe I can label everything first while connected and generate a plan from there?
It's pretty straight forward but gets expensive fast. Connectors are easy enough to find, but hard to get replacement wires of all the right colours.
Easiest if you stretch the old one out on a large board and hold in place with nails.
A cheaper option is to replace the connectors, but retain the old wire (which is usually OK other than gooey loom tape and corroded ends).
If you go down this path Organge Sol / De-solv-it will remove the old loom tape glue off very easily. Wipe off residue with alcohol before re-taping. Open up the old crimps with a sharpened screwdriver or similar (carefully so you don't loose any wire), treat with white vinegar and salt solution to remove corrosion then neutralise with a baking soda/water solution.
Recrimp with a good quality ratcheting crimper (don't be tempted to solder wires unless you use NASA certified techniques)
Use loom tape, not insulation tape.
If you don't mind second hand wire, you could try an auto wrecker for a late model wiring loom. That should give you enough to have nice fresh ends, and you should be able to buy for little more than the cost of the copper.
I would recommend Tesa tape to re-wrap the wire harness. For oxidation on the connector pins there is a product named "De-Ox It" that is better than using vinegar and neutralizing. I would not open up the crimp connections and re-crimp because the crimps actually make a mechanical bond with the wire that will get destroyed. I did the whole harness on an R100RS the way I described, and it came out very nice. Yes, do avoid solder; I was once a NASA certified solderer.