If emulsion tube removal is a problem, just apply air (after removing the tiny main jet of course).
The carb shown is an '82.
100PSI? Won't it go across the room like a brass bullet? I know I used a lot less than that for a brake caliper piston, and it still became lethal.
100psi is more of a slow bullet across the workbench kind of speed. I don't think you'd get it to fly across the shop :)
If you're not a fan of the compressed air idea, I've had good luck with a pair of flush cut pliers.
(http://i.imgur.com/vNir7bq.jpg)
Using your good fret nippers on the Vision?
Fret lifters didn't work for me because there was not enough of a face to grip, I had to drill a hole in the end of the tube to get a screw into it and pull on it. Later soldered the hole closed.
Quote from: pullshocks on August 01, 2013, 11:41:00 AM
Using your good fret nippers on the Vision?
Nope, those are the cheapo cutters from somebody else's yard sale. I have strongly considered buying a really nice set of them for the garage though. $30 isn't a terrible price for such a nice cutter: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Special_tools_for_Fretting/Fret_Cutter.html?tab=Pictures .
The smaller sizes of needle nose vice grips are good for gripping up close. I just bought some for like $12.00 three pack
Can I use all these methods to my carb videos with credits please? I will do a tips and tricks section.
You guys really DO suffer from crappy petrol in the States. I have never seen anything quite like this down here.
I really need to make a video with my take on carb rebuild! i have tried many ways to remove a non removable emulsion tube , over the years. There is one that is fool prof , drill a small hole in the top and tighten a 1/2 inch long quarter drive sheet metal screw in to it. This gives you a useful handle to pry. pull the thing out. The tube can be reused by soldering the hole shut.
I tried the air method and when i do the air comes from inside the carb. Mine is a US version. Any clues as to where I have to inject air to get the emulsion tube out? Pictures will be awesome!!
Mario, if the emulsion tube resists coming out it may have some varnish built up around it or maybe some corrosion from sitting for eons in the weather. If compressed air didn't push it out it may be stuck. Can you turn it? Technically it should just lift out easily.
Soak the carb body in Berrymans or spray carb cleaner in to the emulsion tube air intake to soften the crud and then try again.
On both carbs the emulsion tube air intake inlet is the hole between the emulsion tube and the accelerator jet nozzle.
The other access for carb cleaner is from the pilot jet in the bottom of the body.
Uh, the Berryman's carb cleaner sold here in Calif. is next to worthless. Tiger suggested using PineSol and others have used it with decent results. I have not tried it.
I buy my carb dip and cleaner here in AZ. its the good stuff . Our local auto zone got a shipment of CA legal carb spray . It was some kind of thin red oil and it did nothing.
Here in New Zealand we don't get Berrymans, not even the diluted Politically Correct stuff that you seem to suffer with in California.
I hunted out the MSDS Sheet for the Berrymans carb cleaner. This is the California version.
http://www.berrymanproducts.com/products/eco-friendly-products/berryman-chem-dip-carburetor-and-parts-cleaner/
By comparison, the Berrymans B-12 Chemtool Professional Fuel System Cleaner didn't look at all eco-friendly.
http://www.berrymanproducts.com/products/gasoline/b-12-chemtool-carburetor-fuel-system-and-injector-cleaner/
I took that MSDS sheet down to a local paint manufacturer. One look at it and he said that it looks like our "Strong (Spray) Gun Wash" with maybe some Methylene Chloride thrown in for good measure" How much do you want?
For 5 litres, I paid about NZ$30 and it works like people describe the old fashioned Berrymans working. Nice shiny carbs and other bits as a result. No trace of varnish etc. Rubber parts swell with prolonged dipping. (20 minutes) but return to normal size in a day. - This of course could be a good thing for revitalising tired "o" rings and seals!
Use in a well ventilated space and avoid breathing fumes. Dispose responsibly. Highly flammable. Works great!!
What do auto spray painters in California use to clean their spray guns?
Quote from: pinholenz on August 05, 2013, 04:19:45 AM
What do auto spray painters in California use to clean their spray guns?
They switched to waters colors so it's not a problem... :D :D
Oh, and a serious question... How
does one responsibly dispose of stuff like this?
Drink it on the rocks!
Locally we have council run hazardous materials collection points. No charge - Best option.
In other circumstances I would put the waste into a shallow metal bowl, heap sawdust or wood shavings on top, and then carefully set light to it well away from any other flamables. Avoid letting this stuff get into the ground or into watercourses.
It stores OK in a petrol can for when there isn't a total fire ban.
yeah save it for Guy Fawkes or lighting the BBQ :D
That's pretty good , our hazardous material collection wont accept it !!!!!!
In the event I brake this tube while extracting it, where can I get a new one?
Quote from: pinholenz on August 02, 2013, 05:06:59 PM
Can I use all these methods to my carb videos with credits please? I will do a tips and tricks section.
You're welcome to share my "wealth" of knowledge :)
I have '82 emulsion tubes
Rick,
I need one. How much?
Quote from: Jimustanguitar on August 01, 2013, 08:11:41 AM
100psi is more of a slow bullet across the workbench kind of speed. I don't think you'd get it to fly across the shop :)
If you're not a fan of the compressed air idea, I've had good luck with a pair of flush cut pliers.
*BUMP*
Adding to the collective wisdom. ;)
If you use compressed air just wrap the body in a rag. No projectiles.
The tubes were stuck in the carbs on my '82. Air would not move them. Heat helped.
I put the bodies in an ultrasonic bath at 60*C. The bath was just tap water with a few ozs of Simple Green. After a 30 min cycle most of the varnish and debris were freed.
The bodies were taken out individually. While still hot I used a pair of regular pliers with the tips of the jaws dressed flat on a bench grinder. A light grip on the boss on top of the tube with slight rotation and the tubes slid right out.
Jets and tubes could then be cleaned properly.