Off to pick up the bike tomorrow morning. Here's my checklist of things to check / do before riding it. Not looking for a rebuild here - just a safe reliable daily hack. Anything missing?
Front Brakes
• Check lever
• Check dual front brake
• Check smooth on, good release
• Check not spongy / good fluid level
• Check brake lines
• Check rotors not warped
• Check pad wear
• Check brake light lights when applied
• Check Fluid
Rear Brakes
• Check lever
• Check for rusted brake tensioner & bolts
• Check smooth on, good release
• Check wear level indicator when applied
• Check brake light lights when applied
Clutch
• Check lever
• Check for free clutch
• Check for noises
• Check gear change
Tank
• Check Dents
• Check rust at lowest points
• Check Internal for rust / lining
• Check petcock action
• Pressure test for leaks
• Check Tank Cap
• Check fuel colour – Drain and Replace
• Check for filler material
• Check overall paint condition
Tyres
• Check Size 100/90-18 & 110(120)/90-18
• Check Pressures
• Check condition tread depth, unusual wear, wear indicators
• Check year codes
Frame & Overall Appearance
• Cracks and Scratches
• Rounded Bolts & Screws
• Sight down centreline for obvious twists
• Signs of crash repair. Levers, Indicators, Panels, Paint
• Check for signs of racing. Safety wire holes, contained breathers, abnormal tyre wear
• Check frame for cracks, rust & welds
• Paint Condition
• Steering Head Bearings
• Mudguards secure
Seat
• Check for tears / rips / stitching
• Check seat stay
• Check Boot box & strap present
• Check toolkit present
• Check Latches firmly
• Check Helmet Lock
• Check Pack Rack firm
• Pillion handles firm
• Check for oil filter/ air filter stickers
• Air Filter Condition
Electrical
• Check fusebox condition
• Check / clean connectors - especially stator
• Check indicators
• HT Leads
• HT Caps
• Check idiot lights (oil, neutral, flasher, high Beam)
• Meter Lights
• Horn
• Check Battery voltage & fluid levels
• Check High / Low Beam
• Check Rear Light
• Headlamp, taillamp & indicator lenses
Suspension
• Inspect for rust/lumps
• Bounce & check for leaks, oil droplets, binding
• Sight for warpage, twists
• Check for noises
Wheels
• Check for dents
• Check for runout
• Check free spinning
• Check wheel bearings
• Check split-pins on axles
Exhaust
• Check for dents, rust, scrapes, holes
Other
• Check mirrors firm
• Check oil leaks
• Drain oil - check for colour, metal fragments, slick, white streaks
• Check water coolant leaks
• Check water coolant level (green) in overflow
• Check throttle freeplay, binding & snapback
• Check throttle routing & rev while turning
• Footrests secure
• Hose Condition
• Choke
• Starting
• Starter
• Overflow routing (Battery, Carb Vents, Carb Overflow)
• Overflows clear
• Meter Functions (RPM, Speed, Temp), & Trip Reset
• Thermo switch, Fan
• Cracked Inlet Manifolds, Sealed Airbox
• Flapper function (if fitted)
• Carb Cleaner (dip if filthy), Check jet sizes
• YICS Blow test
• Check Vacuum hoses for leaks
Replace
• Oil and Filter
• Brake Fluid
• Coolant
• Fork Oil
• Transmission Oil
• Starter Clutch Bolts
• Brake shoes and pads
• Fuel Filter
• Lube all cables (Throttle, Speedo, Clutch, Choke)
• Spark Plugs (Iridium)
Adjust
• Shims
• Carb Sync
• Clutch, Throttle, Brake freeplay
• Mixtures
• Headlight Aiming
• Disable Rev Limiter
• Brake and Gear lever height
Replace if Needed
• Steering Head Bearings
• Wheel Bearings
• Swingarm Bearings
• Tyres
• Fork Brace
• Fork Seals
• HT Cables, Starter Cables
• Anything noticed above
Post Starting
• Check for blue smoke (oil burning)
• Check for white smoke (water)
• Check oil light goes out
• Check idle revs
• Check Headlight doesn't brighten on revs
• Check for weird noises
• Check for tappet / chain chatter
• Check for hesitation / stumbling on throttle
• Check side-stand cut-off (if present)
• Check Kill Switch
• Temp Gauge
• Check exhaust for equal pressure, leaks
• Check exhaust for life saving loudness
• Check exhaust for heat on all pipes
• Check rev change on full lock
• > 12.9 Volts @ 2000RPM
• < 14.8 Volts @ 4500RPM
• Voltage Drops
Test Ride
• Check Smooth brake action
• Check handsoff
• Check speedo
• Smooth shifting, no false neutrals
• Check gear jumping on hard throttle action (each gear)
• Check gear jumping on engine braking
• Check off-idle stumble
• Cornering
Paperwork
• Insurance
• Registration
• Wof
That's quite the list, how much time do you expect it to take?
It's worth seeing if there's a fuel filter installed
Check the throttle cable routing to make sure that it won't rev when you turn the bars.
Check that the battery drain tube is installed. You don't want acid dripping on anything but the road.
Make sure that the trip-ometer isn't missing its reset stem.
Check the intake manifolds for cracked rubber.
Check the carb overflow ports to make sure they haven't been plugged by a genius PO.
Look to see if the rev-limiter wire has been cut at the ignition box.
Check the stator wiring for burnt connectors.
Look to see if the gauge face is cracked or lifted.
Lube the speedo cable to make it quiet.
Adjust the shift and brake levers to line up with your feet, and rotate the brake and clutch levers to line up with your hands. The dealer unpacking instructions has a good reference for the "factory" settings for these items, and tweak to your own ergo's after that.
If you take the carb apart, see if the jets are the proper factory values.
Sorry if I repeated any. I did my best to check your list for duplicates.
Also check for the vacuum flapper in your airbox.
Thanks - I've updated my checklist.
It shouldn't take too long - I think having a good checklist is the key to getting it done efficiently.
I'd say a day for all the checks, another day to do the compulsory replacements (fluids, starter clutch), then whatever time it takes to do remedial work.
The bike was sold because it was not firing on one cylinder, and not charging and they couldn't resolve those issues so I know there is at least some repair work to do as well. I have spared for all the usual culprits (stator, R/R, TCI, etc)
I'm without transport otherwise so I'd like to have it inspected and on the road within a week
Missing on one cylinder could definitely be due to the rev limiter wire. It could also be carbeuration (like fuel starvation or flooding from a stuck float valve) or it could be between the ignition and the spark plugs. Check the coils and the connections to them.
Holy crap
My checklist is covered in red crosses. This will take longer than I thought.
Steering bearings munted
Right caliper frozen
Brake lines perished
Pads, shoes beyond wear limit
Carbs need overhaul (there was more fuel in the oil than oil )
Battery 8.0v on full charge
Plugs rooted
Throttle and clutch cables beyond redemption
Tyres unusable
The list goes on and I haven't even started it to check on stator & R/R and the non firing cylinder
On the plus side the side stand seems OK
So if I'm understanding correctly you needed a form of conveyance to get on the road within a week that would be reliable. And you chose a Vision why???? ;D :P
BTW, what happened that you suddenly find yourself without a car?
Quote from: Rikugun on November 24, 2013, 09:03:42 AM
So if I'm understanding correctly you needed a form of conveyance to get on the road within a week that would be reliable. And you chose a Vision why???? ;D :P
BTW, what happened that you suddenly find yourself without a car?
Feck, the vision is even getting bad rep from it's own fan club.
I had to sell the car because I'm unemployed and needed to pay mortgage this month :-(
With a vision I have 10 large plastic bins of parts and knowledge to buy a non-runner at 1/3 price and be confident I can get it going.
Really though, what is so dodgy about a vision compared to other budget bikes of a similar vintage? I've found visions to be most reliable bikes as long as some basic stuff is done to them.
As the saying goes...."Someone took the love out of it. You have to put the love back into it." .....
In this case, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=reSa2ipIH8s
Been making a lot of love to my bike all day...
Cut and polished bodywork
Fitted pack rack
Replaced battery
Drained oil/fuel mixture
Replaced front tyre/bearings
Replaced rotors
Rebuilt forks / fitted progressive springs, new seals and #10 oil
Fitted rebuilt calipers / new pads / stainless steel brake lines
Greased steering head bearings
Stripped and re-built RH switch cluster - removed dodgy bar mounted starter switch
Replaced grips, cleaned and lubed throttle grip
There needs to be a special hell reserved for people who think twisting bare wires together and covering them in insulation tape is an appropriate way to modify bike electrics.
Quote from: ProphetOfDoom on November 24, 2013, 04:10:54 PM
Feck, the vision is even getting bad rep from it's own fan club. I had to sell the car because I'm unemployed and needed to pay mortgage this month :-(
With a vision I have 10 large plastic bins of parts and knowledge to buy a non-runner at 1/3 price and be confident I can get it going.
Really though, what is so dodgy about a vision compared to other budget bikes of a similar vintage? I've found visions to be most reliable bikes as long as some basic stuff is done to them.
Sure I'm a fan but not blind to the V's foibles! 8) I suppose it offers about the same reliability as any other vintage bike and that's why I was thinking used Corolla or the like.... ;)
All kidding aside I'm sorry to hear about the financial mess and hope you get it sorted quickly. We're here for ya brother :)
Impressive rate of progress. What is even more impressive is that you had all the parts on hand!
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Todays love making included:
Made a replacement flapper for the missing one out of an aluminium oil can and an old bicycle tube
Bled brakes
New Rear tyre, bearings OMFG you can't fit a 120/90 rear on an XZ400 !!! or at least won't fit with a cycleworks exhaust, I don't know about stock. I'll keep the 120 for my good bike and have to go buy a 110/90
New brake shoes & lubed pivots
Brake bar bolt was finger tight with no split pin !!
Lubed swingarm bearings - still good from last time I did them 10 years ago
Cleaned connectors
Replaced trans fluid
Removed 2.5 rolls of gooey insulating tape and a lot of glue. What a butcher the PO was.
Does anyone know the screw size for the trip meter knob?
So many spare parts cluttering my life, and yet still I need more - Brake pedal return spring, RH black underseat plastics, Fuse box cover so far
By the way, notice how small the intake is compared to a pre-update 550.
The 400 flapper doesn't look as though it needs any coins glued to it. I could send you a vacuum operated flapper if you have need of one. BDC
Thanks Bobby, I think I have one in a box somewhere.
However I do need:
Brake pedal return spring
RH black underseat plastics (I have a red one but would rather a paint match that I can't get with a rattle can)
Fuse box cover
Trouble is that it's not just the airbox top but also a new carb top for front carb, grey air filter, new intake manifold. Not to mention that the intake must be nearly 50% bigger on the 550 than the 400 I'd have no idea what to do with the jetting, and I'm sure it would need a larger exhaust as well
Anyways, this bike is strictly for commuting so I think I'll leave it as stock as possible. My other bike is for experimenting on.
I found a spring and Fuse Box Cover. Tomorrow I'll do a more thorough search for a right rear side plastic. I did find one but I think it goes on my 83. BDC
Quote from: ProphetOfDoom on November 27, 2013, 04:40:00 PM
Thanks Bobby, I think I have one in a box somewhere.
However I do need:
Brake pedal return spring
RH black underseat plastics (I have a red one but would rather a paint match that I can't get with a rattle can)
Fuse box cover
Trouble is that it's not just the airbox top but also a new carb top for front carb, grey air filter, new intake manifold. Not to mention that the intake must be nearly 50% bigger on the 550 than the 400 I'd have no idea what to do with the jetting, and I'm sure it would need a larger exhaust as well
Anyways, this bike is strictly for commuting so I think I'll leave it as stock as possible. My other bike is for experimenting on.
i have a fuse box cover. i replaced the whole lot with blade fuses seems to run much better.
let me know if u need the cover.
The more I work on this bike the more I realise the PO was a complete dickhead. Pommy git.
Overflows re-routed above the float bowls just cause the fuel to drain into the cylinders - it doesn't stop the problem (2 x 5x2mm o-rings for $2)
If you replace the petcock with a non-vacuum type you have to seal the vacuum port
XZ400's don't use the same jetting as a US 82 model and even then the mains were in backwards
Glue is not an adequate substitute for a carb gasket
Sellotape (Scotch tape) should not be used in wiring
Moly grease on emulsion tubes blocks the holes and stops them from working
It's amazing the bike ran at all, but unsurprising it went like a piece of crap.
Today's love making:
Carb "dip" and fix jetting screwup above
Replaced intake manifolds (used) with new gaskets
Replace missing heat shield
Disposed of dead mouse, 2 lizards and 2 birds that the kitten brought in
Lubed throttle, clutch, choke cables
Sealed and pressure tested YICS box
Replaced fuel hoses and new gold mesh fuel filter
Iridium spark plugs and "Tiger" spark plug leads that were meant to be on the other bike
This is the Moto Karma Sutra tomorrow I am going to try "The union of the monkey"
You will have it in good condition soon.
Yikes, you could write a book about what NOT to do to a bike when you get done with this project!
I really liked the greased emulsion tube trick. The raised drain tubes is a classic too but they should be raised above the tank level to be uber effective. Or interconnected with a (monkey) union. ;D ;D ;D
The overflow pissed me off - I know he was in the carbs due to the dodgy jetting, and for the sake of $2 worth of o-rings and 20 minutes labour he's probably done permanent damage flooding fuel into his oil.
The union of the monkey:
Third party insurance = $65
Got the new Battleaxe bolted in, new oil and filter, tested the Stator, R/R and a few other things and pushed the START button. Clackety clack from the starter solenoid so I swapped out the battery for a brand new Motobatt I happened to have in my stash. She fired first pop. The extra CCA of the AGM battery really spins that starter round nicely.
A bit of postfiring, but then settled down when a bit warmer and sounds pretty damned good considering it was on default mixtures (3.5 turns) and no sync. I'd forgotten how nice the cycleworks pipes sound.
I probed with the makeshift stethoscope (long handled screwdriver) sounds like 3 shims chattering, a bit of rattle from the front cylinder (which could be lack of syncing) and the starter clutch. I'll run this oil for a couple of hundy km then drain and do the starter clutch. Shims can wait till I've done the 550.
Tomorrow "The posture of the Tree with fruit"
Swap out the leaking petcock, check sync with my man-o-meter, mixture with my EGA, find my helmet and take the bike to the testing station for Wof and Reg.
A wise choice regarding the leaking petcock repair. One doesn't need fuel dripping on the fruit.... :o :D
I've pretty much decided when this battery dies I'm going to try an AGM. Great progress BTW!
The posture of the Tree with fruit:
I spent flipping ages trying to chase a fuel leak even after swapping the petcock out. Turns out it was the front main jet cap not done up tight enough. My fault, but annoying.
Synced and did the mixtures then went for a little ride. It does bog a bit if too high a gear is selected at low revs, but otherwise it's a lot zippier than I remember, but then I didn't have the analysis tools I do now. It will be a great little round town bike.
Tomorrow, "the posture of the scissors"
A dynolicious test to see how it compares to the 550.
Are those figures good or bad?
Pretty good I think.
Using the analyser is a bit of a dark art that I'm just starting to get to grips with, and of course it only helps at low throttle openings. I'm still getting popping on decel, and bad postfiring when cold
This pic helps understand what's going on
I am not understand what you mean by "main jet cap." Maybe this is because I have the 83 carbs?
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There's a cap over the main jet where you screw it in.
Same on the 83 - Part 41,42 of the parts fiche. That was leaking
OK got it. Since you said it was hard to find, I expected something more internal.
The position of the swing:
Bugger. Today it won't start - half pie going on rear cyl only. Checked spark OK, YICS OK, Vacuum OK, limiter is cut, plug is wet. How rooted can a bike be?
Double bugger - when cranking I got that nasty hammer on steel sound of the starter clutch on every press so that can't wait any longer. I can worry about actually running later on. Pulled the side cover off, and fortunately caught it while it was just bolt damage.
Tripple bugger - I'm not loving the colour of this 2 day old oil. Black with gold shimmer as though someone's dumped in a bottle of brass fling dust. Not sure what to do about that one.
In to town for supplies tomorrow. 3/4 hour walk (steep hill), 1 hour by bus, then 1/2 hour walk. Then do it all again to get home. I hate not having a vehicle.
Quote from: ProphetOfDoom on December 05, 2013, 11:00:15 PM
Bugger. Today it won't start - half pie going on rear cyl only. Checked spark OK, YICS OK, Vacuum OK, limiter is cut, plug is wet.
I'll guess there is fuel since the plug is wet. Did you check for spark under compression or with the plug removed?
Stator looks OK though it is not stock. What is NOT OK is the wiring. Holy crap take a look at this - bare wires where they have been twisted together (not even soldered together) and covered in tape which has shrunk due to heat and unravelled. They were just hanging there waiting to short out. There is RTV F***ING EVERYWHERE and red insulating tape holding the connectors into a melted housing . More bare twisted wires on neutral and oil pressure wires but not even any tape.
This will take all day tomorrow to fix up. Think I'd best pull the right side cover and clean the oil pump screen as well. that's bound to be covered in RTV.
What an arse.
Yeah, rather unlovely. But you can fix that! The 'real' problems are often the ones that we can't see. It will be a good stint of Visionary Duty to sort it all but you can do it and will be rewarded with a good and reliable ride. Well, depending on what is INSIDE the cases. Anyway, you are off to a great start, so good luck with the 'new' ride.
So I dropped in a used but tested stator, crimped on a weatherpac connector, new wires for the neutral/oil lights, and new shrink tubing all round. Sealed it all back up again, new oil and cranked with a newly charged battery.
1. When cranking I still occasionally get that nasty hammer on steel sound, but the starter clutch has just been done. Every time it makes the noise, the gear lever jumps - Any idea what that could be?
1. Mixtures F3.5 turns R3.5 turns. From cold it catches on the rear cylinder only after a ton of cranking but only just. With a lot of nursing it gets better as it warms up, then finally after about 10 mins the front cylinder kicks in and eventually at normal operating temp idles quite nicely. Once warm it sounds nice and revs up and down fast. Under load (me on the bike, in gear), it can't take off. Postfires horribly, no power.
Jiggled around a bit with vacuum gauges - max vacuum at about F3.75 turns R3.0 turns, perfectly synced but it doesn't help situation above. Noted the Front cyl vacuum pulses a bit more than the rear also a reasonable amount of tickety, tickety noise from the front cam area.
Reset to 3.5 turns, rechecked for leaks, rechecked for spark front and rear - no significant change
2 days ago it was starting badly, but running tolerably (though not brilliantly) once at temp. Something I have done has made this even worse. That is not the intended objective. *sigh*
Hate to say it, but it sounds like clogged high speed/power circuitry. No power and all that. Hard starting would seem to also indicate enrichner system malfunction. How clean are the carbs?
Just something to try based on personal experience. Can you substitute another TCI from a "known good bike".... I've had two of them that ran on one cylinder for several miles then started to run just fine.... just a thought.
Steve
So today I finger checked compression. Checked spark, fuel present. Replaced the coil, TCI and checked all the connections that they are in the right place and clean and tight. Removed the carbs and gave them a repeat spraying in the delicate places, checked all passages clear. Checked for air leaks. Charged battery.
No Improvement. This is starting to get on my wick.
Did you check ignition source coils (pulse coils) with an ohm meter against spec? Even if the values are OK I'd be tempted to swap another if you have one just to be sure.
Getting back to stators for a sec.... In your pic above I'm guessing the stator is the one in the bike as purchased. What is the odd looking coil/post at the 12:30 position. It's larger than the other coils and appears to be mounted with a dovetail fitting. Are it's wires connected to the rest of the stator windings?
Yes I've swapped the coils with known good ones off my other bike.
It's an odd looking stator, I had a similar looking one on my old 70s CB, where the larger coil did lights and was unregulated. This one has been hacked about with so who knows, but I've replaced it anyway so it makes no difference
Went through the whole air/fuel/spark from the beginning. Didn't find anything, but after all that it mysteriously roared into life both cylinders from cold. I don't know what the issue is - I presume electrical but buggered if I can find it.
Re-synced the carbs so going even a little better now.
http://youtu.be/IkF-Ir6PNEk (http://youtu.be/IkF-Ir6PNEk)
3/4-full throttle tuning is still a bit off - power is lower at high load than I'd like, - it still struggles to get up my steep driveway from stopped but zippy enough on the flat. The bike has a high flow air filter and cycleworks pipes so I suspect it's running a tad lean.
Remaining issues...
Leaking oil where the stator wires come out - any reason why I shouldn't just fill this void full of RTV
Brake return spring
Need volt meter - ordered the same as Tig's
That will do for the meantime I want to get back to the other bike.
Hey Dude hope that bikes coming along OK. Sounds like one that i picked up couple of years back. It would fire up and then just cut out. ! of the main problems turned out to be the kill switch which had oxidation in it from the ali of the control switch. Man i felt dumb when i found what the problem was. Maybe good to check that. And if shes running lean you could try the old washer on the flapper trick to make it open slower.
Yes they might not be the most reliable bike, but i have learnt so much from owning them. Yes i have curst the designers more than once, specially whoever came up with that stupid rear exhaust piece. One day someone will find the skeletal remains of a dude who's been re installing that piece and got his hands trapped. Makes me fell claustrophobic ever time i work on it. At least Cosworth had his shit together motor wise. I'm sure the rest of the team were doing cocaine and passing around a few doobs.
You say they are not the most reliable bike. Why do you say that? The ONLY problems of reliability I have stem from owner neglect or stupidity. I tell you who was smoking doobs, that's the previous owner of this lemon.
Look what I woke up to this morning - I never had them on my checklist them but seems the moron only did the valve covers up with his fingers. Sheesh.
At least that will explain the funny looking oil - (another $70 down the drain) but God alone knows what other crap is in store for me.
So do I:
A) torque the head replace the oil and hope for the best
B) do a top end tear down
C) do a full engine tear down
D) try and build up a 550 engine from two partial (but neglected) engines I have lying around
E) put in the good engine from my other bike and then do D) at my leisure
F) sell all my visions for $1 and get a life
Considering all the other issues you have discovered, if the PO left the valves covers finger tight, I would have major uncertainty about how he left the the valve lash. You haven't mentioned the gold metal flake oil since the first time you reported it. Any more thoughts or discoveries on that front?
I was going to do the lash anyway - the long handled screwdriver test suggests work needed in at least 3 valves (tick tick tick), though no noises that I didn't like.
Having seen this, I suspect the gold metal flake was actually coolant irridescing through the gold (not yet turned black) oil
If it was a 550, then I have spare head gaskets etc, but being a 400 these will have to come from Japan, if they are available at all.
What's your vote from the options above?
(A ) And check the condition of the oil carefully. It may indicate other choice.
Definite green tinge to the oil. Engine's going to have to come out :-(
The gaskets / o-ring at the bottom of the cylinders on the 400 is are same as 550 so I have one. The gasket at the top of the cylinders is 400 specific. I'll see if I can get a nice new set of rings when I'm at the parts shoppe.
This is going to stretch my ability to follow instructions. If I can do brain surgery I should be able to do this. Oh wait, I can't do brain surgery either. :-( Worst case the bike never goes again and I have some really expensive parts that I don't need.
Is it too late to get the Corolla I was talking about!? :( That is a bummer. You're sure that's coolant?
I'm sure of nothing.
Yes, too late for the Corolla (and I'm way too cool for a corolla). Engine is out now thanks to Iain deadlifting it onto my workbench on his own.
[edit - 11:00pm Sat]
Found one corner of the rear cylinder leaking what is definitely coolant, hidden behind the stator wires. It's been leaking for some time.
So far I've had to drill out 4 or 5 bolts. Both sets of cams are out. The sprockets had to come out with them as they are too frozen to use a normal wrench. One oil plug missing (front intake) but no obvious damage. I'll measure properly tomorrow.
Shim cover rubbers are well buggered, as well as the bolt rubbers.
[edit - 11:15pm Sat]
Since I'm going to be doing this all again with my cafe bike, I think I'll make an engine stand. Engines flopping around on a workbench are no fun, and while blocks of wood keep it upright, the bolt you need to turn always seems to be on the other side.
No matter what I do I can't separate the head from the cylinders. It means I can't do a valve grind, but since I can't get a head gasket that might not be a bad thing. Rings aren't available either.
I still have a leaking base gasket which is effectively crippling the bike so I'll see if I can get the heads/cylinders off as a unit. Grrrr
I'm been looking at used corollas :-( even with high miles they are not exactly cheep
Got the heads/cylinders off as a single unit.
Obviously I can't inspect the valves, except to discover there are no huge chunks missing. The pistons are just mildly coked < 1mm so I'll leave these as is, and the rings are bright with no gouging on the cylinder barrels. No slop at all on the big end :-)
On the bad side there is RTV everywhere and a lot of scratches on the mating surfaces so someone has been here before. I don't know what gaskets are made of but they should use them for glue - no glue I've ever bought sticks to metal like a gasket does.
The 550 O-rings are too big, so the fiche is definitely wrong about these, so I'll risk re-inserting the current ones. A big +1 for Yamaha for putting bevelled edges on the cylinders - it makes re-inserting the pistons very very easy. Does this make up for the -100 for deleting head gaskets, pistons and rings from their parts lists. No way! Yamaha should be ashamed of themselves. I used to have a Mercedes Benz - they guarantee parts availability for every car they have ever made even from the 1800s - if they don't have the part they will make it for you - that's customer service.
Having some issues getting the barrels down onto the crankcase so a bit more jiggling is ahead of me.
BTW did the entire rear cylinder to a Belgian singer called Selah Sue - check her out on Youtube
http://www.youtube.com/user/selahsuemusic (http://www.youtube.com/user/selahsuemusic) sounds very much like Gin Wigmore - one of our NZ stars
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gpkkbuzejR0&list=PL5DC3E0A483ED06A8 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gpkkbuzejR0&list=PL5DC3E0A483ED06A8)
If I'm not too late... Not being able to obtain 400cc head gaskets might mean there is no point of this, but I really think you want to take the heads off if for no other reason than to see what the PO has done up there!
Cut a length of lumber (here is US I'd call it a 2x2) about 25mm longer than the distance from the bottom of the barrel to the top of the combustion chamber and stand it up on your wooden work bench and screw it from the bottom of the bench so it stands there.
Lift the cyl assembly over this and wham it down onto it until the head pops free...
A willing assistant might be useful here...
I guess if you can't get the gaskets, perhaps better to leave alone, but given all that has been done to this bike I'm a little worried.
Good luck,
Steve
The wood idea came to me as well. Laying the cylinder on its' side, inserting the wood and hitting the wood with a heavy hammer would provide good control and still get the job done. A worthy assistant should be drafted to hold everything in place while all the banging is going on. You really don't want the head coming off, flying across the room and hitting the floor.
Great idea guys.
I'd really like to do a hone, valve grind and replace the seals since I'm in here anyway. It's not like dropping the engine out is a trivial matter. I need to split the head to do any of that.
If I rip the head gasket the bike's a dead duck though. Any thoughts about using a 550 gasket that instead? Everything would fit except that the metal ring would be about 1cm larger. I'm wondering if it would be OK except for perhaps dropping the compression ever so slightly.
Could you put 550 heads on it? BDC
See'ns how the head is apparently glued on, the chances are probably real good that the gasket either is toast now, or will be when the head comes off. If 400cc gaskets aren't available, it's time to start thinking out of the box. To me, either 550cc heads and gaskets (if they'll mate up to 400cc cylinders), or just 550cc gaskets, would be worthy of consideration.
Quote from: Re-Vision on December 16, 2013, 04:47:52 PM
Could you put 550 heads on it? BDC
It would be awesome if I could graft an entire 550 top end on. I don't have time to do any garage work next couple of days, but I'll measure to see if I can. I think from a quick look that the entrance way is only just big enough for the 400 bore. I suppose I could file that larger - it wouldn't be a precision dimension, but would need to take care not to drop filings into the works.
I'm thinking the 550 gasket might be the way to go
You can make a head gasket from a sheet of copper. Just cut out the correct holes and outline, and anneal it before installation. There is a company that sells these but it should be simple enough to make them if you can get the right thickness of copper.
I dislodge glued on head gaskets , by using a large shot hammer and striking the head with a sideways blow , then adding a upwards motion . works every time,
Well I'd already tried Rick's trick and I wasn't about to start pounding on irreplaceable valves with a bit of 2x2 so I chucked a washer and nut on some threaded rod and fastened it up tight through the plug hole and started smashing the crap out of it. I don't know what they did, but short of a hydraulic press there's no separating those two parts.
I'll do the shims and just trust the valve seats etc are serviceable unless demonstrated otherwise.
I have to say the cams, chains, and all gear teeth look very good indeed with practically no sign of wear. Zero slop on big ends - amazingly since the bike has 70k on the clock
Cleaned off the old gasket, dropped a new one on and torqued the head to spec. Refitted the cams
Just crossed the 100 hour mark on this bike plus $1000 worth of parts, will be 120 by the time I hit the start button again. Not bad for something that was "running & just needed a tune" imagine what that would have cost at a motorcycle shop - even allowing for them being faster than me.
I swear this bike is trying to get back at me for selling it 8 years ago.
I was torquing up the cams and one of the bolts snapped, shit shit shit.
I've ordered an EZ-out. It should arrive Tuessday :-(
The EZ out arrived today. I've heard nothing but bad things about these. Unwarranted in this case
The hard part was getting the bolt stub drilled out as it snapped a fair way down. The hole on the head is 8mm to fit the dowel. I removed the dowel, drilled a 7mm hole in some scrap, then used that as a guide so I wouldn't chafe the sides. That flattened the bolt stub a bit, and followed through with a 3mm. Nice and slowly with lots of lube.
Placed the EZ out on the newly drilled hole, gave it a "Thwack" to seat it in place then ever so slowly turned it anti-clockwise with a tap spanner. Success!!
Although I can't inspect the valve seats I shimmed all the valves correctly except one which is one size out. I'm not waiting for one to arrive and it's close enough.
New o-rings on the waterpipes, new exhaust gaskets. The head bolt gaskets were not in great shape, but a wash in warm soapy water and a spray with CRC 808 silicone and they are passable.
The engine's ready to go back in the bike - fingers crossed that I did everything right
Once you get it together again take a compression test. That will tell you if you really need to do the valves.
You might be able to to do a comp. test out of the frame. Have a worthy assistant stabilize the engine while you run 12vdc directly to the starter.
A good idea QBS but I don't have a compression tester, so it's going in without.
I put the engine in today. I've never done it on my own before so had to use a different method from before. I put a cargo strap on either side then lifted one end (with the 4 x 2 as a lever) while tightening the strap with the other hand. Each end went up about 1cm at a time till it was the right height to swing back an inch or so into place.
If not exactly easy it wasn't overly difficult - certainly easier than 2 people manhandling it into place.
Radiator is in also. Exhaust is next - I'll try the cargo strap for that as well as I've had a lot of difficulty in the past
I have a compression tester you can use if you like.
Thanks, I'd like to use that at some stage for the project bike. I won't bother for this one - she either blows or she goes.
hehe, that's my motto too! my wife is still here.
Mine too
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Iain
NZ
Keep it seemly boys, there are Americans on here.
This evenings mini-project was to enlarge the exhaust bungs out to M10 for my EGA, and to mount the exhausts.
The Y piece already has a bung so that just needed enlarging and tapping. Unlike stock mufflers the Cycleworks have no bung, so I drilled and tapped and was going to weld a nut on, but can't find a nut with the right pitch. For the time being it can just go straight in - the metal's fairly thick.
Discovered there are no gaskets anywhere in the exhaust system. No wonder it was noisy - I just thought the baffles were a bit gone. It will never go well without a sealed exhaust. I have some copper head gaskets but biggest concern is where the Y pipe goes towards the head connectors - there's such a lot of slop - too much for exhaust cement to work I think.
Yamaha gaskets are unobtanium - what do you guys use?
I wrote about my approach to having no crush rings over here.
http://ridersofvision.net/rovforum/index.php?topic=15058.msg138223#msg138223 (http://ridersofvision.net/rovforum/index.php?topic=15058.msg138223#msg138223)
I used the cargo strap method to lift the muffler and it is by far the easiest muffler install I've ever done. Why hasn't anyone suggested this before?
Should be pressing the go button tomorrow morning - just carbs, wheels and misc stuff to go
The bike's all back together now. All the lights work and the starter button make the engine go round and round.
All I need is some petrol. Why don't petrol stations deliver?
Well done. Shout yourself a taxi to the gas station as a reward for sticking at it.
My mother came found for tea and scones today, so I borrowed her car and shot round to the BP for 5 litres of 98
Other than a bit of cranking to get the fuel flowing it started fine, and re-starts first touch of the button
I've never done shims before. The valves were only one shim size out, but the difference in how it revs and sounds is really quite astounding. Of course I also sealed the exhaust and lubricating with pure oil now rather than a oil / glycol mix.
Have warmed it up now need to let cool down for the exhaust cement to expand and seal. By that time I'll be on my 4th Tequila, so unable to road test. I'll be taking it out on a road test tomorrow but from what I've seen so far it's a much happier bike.
Well done. You deserve a tequila or four. Will be very interested to hear how your y-pipe seal works out.
The excitement was short lived. After a few good starts, I ran out of petrol and had to walk 2 1/2 hours each way to a petrol station for more.
Filled her up and although it cranks over fine, not a sign of any internal combustion. Charged the battery - still nothing. Tried a few things at random, but no joy whatsoever.
Tomorrow I'm starting the whole air, fuel, spark, compression diagnostics routine. What a pain in the neck
How did you manage to run out of petrol? :o
Maybe there is a leak somewhere. ;)
Yes, it seems there's something weird in the carb as I put it on prime and dumped about a litre of fuel on to the ground. Cracked the carb open, float height is good, float valve is good float seems to float in a jar of fuel OK, but slightly lopsided. Swapped the floats out bench tested with no overflow, perfect float level.
Re-installed and it's overflowing again in rear, but just a little about 1 drip a minute. Still it does mean the level will be over high.
Plugs were wet so swapped them out. I'm now getting ignition but very erratic with massive backfiring and front firing out of rear cylinder it seems. After about 2 mins of this my YICS exploded - there are little shards of plastic all over the garage. Blocked off the YICS ports, but no improvement.
Here's a video of it "going"
http://youtu.be/wF-ZjKjPUok (http://youtu.be/wF-ZjKjPUok)
You didn't mention which carb is overflowing - is it the same cylinder that is backfiring? You seem unclear if the rear is the one backfiring. Can you run with the sync tool installed as a diagnostic test to confirm it is the rear? Both levels will change with RPM variation but the one backfiring may be more immediate and/or dramatic.
What condition are the O rings sealing the inlet fuel valves?
Did you ever do a compression test after top end rebuild?
Wow! An exploding yics, that's a first for us. Sounds pretty exciting. Wish I had been there to see it go.
How does it run on one cylinder with other spark plug out? Which one is the problem? Sounds like inlet valve not sealing or timing out?
@QBS
You wouldn't have liked it. I certainly didn't. I wear safety glasses in my shop at ALL times and have a fire extinguisher in each corner as well. Which seems overkill till you have a 1m fireball coming off your bike and sharp shards of plastic flying 5 metres.
@ Rikugun
It's the rear carb overflowing, same as the backfiring one.
Today I'll pull the carbs and swap in a new float valve. They both have brand new o-rings but unless I can get the bowl level right, I'll never get the bike running right. It will make it super rich/wet and hard to burn - definitely signs of liquid fuel in the exploded YICS.
I was going to have a handmade YICS on the other bike. I'll have to make two now.
I never did do a compression test, but finally broke down and bought a gauge yesterday. Should arrive tomorrow.
@ Dinglebeery
Not done one at a time, but sure rear is the major problem. Inlet valve for sure, though not sure how - it passes the blow test while manually pushing the floats up AND it works on the bench, just overflows on the bike. Very curious.
Yes, I also suspect issues with the valve timing with that much backfiring. I'll pop the top off and check that too. It's not too hard on the rear.
I had a thought last night that perhaps I switched the trigger sensors round the wrong way. Firing the spark 70 degrees out would cause all sorts of issues
you can have my yics if I haven't binned it already.
Thanks Dinglbeery. I think the Fab time for a new one would be about the same as sealing up an old one so I'll stick with that plan first, and give you a yell if it comes unstuck as my plans often seem to.
Back on the 31st when you first reported it running you didn't mention it backfiring then. Was it? Was it overflowing fuel then too? Doesn't seem like valve timing or ignition would suddenly change. Have these symptoms developed or mostly there from the beginning?
I agree the fuel level has to be right and that is strange how it test ok yet leaks. Try new floats and rely on a fuel height measurement rather than float height.
How do you think you may have switched the pulse coils?
Quote from: Rikugun on January 08, 2014, 10:22:36 PM
Back on the 31st when you first reported it running you didn't mention it backfiring then. Was it? Was it overflowing fuel then too? Doesn't seem like valve timing or ignition would suddenly change. Have these symptoms developed or mostly there from the beginning?
I agree the fuel level has to be right and that is strange how it test ok yet leaks. Try new floats and rely on a fuel height measurement rather than float height.
How do you think you may have switched the pulse coils?
No it was running sweet.
I don't really think it's timing, but it's easy enough to check, and I might just do a twingle while I'm in there - I don't think I can wait till the other bike is done
Fuel hight was good on the bench. I'm thinking the float might be hanging up somewhere I've already replaced the float.
Switching the triggers is easy to explain. When I pushed the connector into the TCI they all fell out the back.
QuoteSwitching the triggers is easy to explain. When I pushed the connector into the TCI they all fell out the back.
That could do it and is worth checking.
Did you initially run it on a pony tank but now on the bikes fuel tank? If so, is the tank spotlessly clean?
Spotless... Ha.
I don't think I've ever seen a spotless vision tank. I do have gold filter though.
Your issue with the carb needle and floats ---
Worrisome to me because I was having something similar before cold weather hit and I stopped working on it.
Bought some slightly oversize o-rings for the needle valve body, very snug fit so that is not it.
With the carb top off the carb body I connected plastic tubin to the fuel inlet and tried to blow through it. Very gentle pressure on the needle produced a very good seal
But with the carb reassembled and tested with fuel, I was not getting consistent behavior. I will mess around with it some more as soon as the weather starts to warm back up. Single Carb Vision was kind enough to send me a couple '83 floats so I can see if those make any difference.
some time ago there was a thread with similar behavior that turned out to be some kind of porosity in the casting.
Glad to know I'm not the only one. Did I say that I had nice new viton o-rings myself. They benchtest fine and cut-off well when I do blow test on the fuel inlet. Floats seem good. It has to be binding somewhere but I can't see where. Grrr
Can't believe porosity in this case it's too fast
This bike is haunted
The front cyl seems to be going fine - I took the valve cover off the rear to check the clearances. That's a LOT easier with the coolant hose removed but I didn't want to do the whole drain thing again.
The clearances have drifted a little since I bolted it up, so I'll switch a couple of them out with one bigger size. I'd be a lot happier doing this job with a decent metric feeler gauge (in nice small metric steps). The one I have is in imperial (standard) steps & metric equivalents which equates to only 3 steps per 0.1mm and they are all over the place. Totally arse for doing the shims. If anyone knows where to get one of these (who will ship to NZ at reasonable prices) please let me know.
Unable to fix this DEMONIC MACHINE FROM HELL in a decent time period I went off and bought a car which has held things up a bit. I couldn't quite bring myself to get a Corolla, but bought another "C" car just to keep Rikugun happy. Ironically the colour is called "Lucifer Red", and I can't have it for a few days as it's at the menders. Are these bad signs?
Quote from: Rikugun on January 08, 2014, 10:36:13 PM
Did you initially run it on a pony tank but now on the bikes fuel tank? If so, is the tank spotlessly clean?
Thinking about this more ...
Yes, No
I was testing it on a virginally clean pony tank with fuel straight out of the ground.
The XZ tank was (nearly) empty when I got it so I just sloshed it out with fresh fuel, then put in 5L of fresh.
Yesterday I accidentally slopped a bit into a work tray when looking at the carbs. It was a strangely strong colour so I left the tray out to evaporate and was left with an unusual lot of sludge. I think my fresh fuel must have loosened sludge from the tank, and then overnight gummed up my float valves.
I'll do a more thorough tank clean and re-do the carbs before I try them again. This is never ending. I haven't touched my proper bike since November last year! and I can't really sell this one till it's actually going.
hmmm, Lucifer Red you say... I wonder if you found the car or the car found you. A match made in Hades!? :D Well, maybe the evil forces will even out and all will be right as rain. Congrats on the Citroën and hope it serves you well.
Regarding the possible dirty gas tank - I hope that's it. At least you'll then know what's wrong and can begin resolving it. :)
Yeah two negatives equals a positive. Nice tidy looking car, but a Frenchie? Maybe you should have my signature now.
OK so the French bombed New Zealand in 1985. That's no reason not to buy their cars.
My new compression gauge arrived today.
HAYNES says to measure when hot - but I'm not so keen to pull plugs and thread the gauge on a hot DOHC. Is it OK to do it cold?
Specs are 142std 128min 156max What sort of PSI figures should I expect when cold? Any other compression measurement tips?
Wouldn't think it would make a huge difference. Pistons are pretty close to bore shape at the crown/ring lands generally but a bit tapered at the skirt (not sure about visions). I would turn over a bit with plugs out to make sure there plenty oil on bore perhaps before test. Test with wide open throttle.
Today I checked the jets, valves and accelerator nozzles. All looks fine and I can't see why it was overflowing, and can't repeat it on the bench. It's a mystery indeed. Flushed them any ways. Not really sure what to do next as float level IS important for good running. I'll pop them back in and see.
I double checked the shims. No problems there - Initially I thought they had drifted or something, but I was just turned around because the bike was facing the other way.
While I was in there I twingled the bike. With a little care and the tensioner removed you can do it without removing the cams...
On the rear cylinder I took it to TDC with both lobes pointed up (where you measure clearances), then rotated a bit less than 1/4 turn CCW (all turning done with my finger in the tensioner hole). Don't go too far or cams will start to depress buckets.
Then slipped 4-5 teeth on intake cam, Then slipped 4-5 teeth on exhaust cam - this can be done by hand as long as the cams haven't engaged.
Repeat 3 or 4 times trying not to miss the timing mark
Done
Actually I did miss the timing mark so had to repeat another 2 turns then lost count as I had a visitor. Just kept going round till the timing mark shows on the flywheel and then checked I had both valves opening close together by rotating more and looking at the valves down the intake tract.
Final cam alignment was made with the marks on the cam, not the sprocket.
Buttoned it back up and checked the compression. Cold as discussed earlier
95 Front / 100 Rear
Tank flush, carbs back in and fire-up Thursday; I'm busy doing car stuff tomorrow.
I kind of hoped you'd get the carbs leak free and running well before altering the cams but I'm still very interested in the results. Good to know about not having to R&R the cams. Also good to know valve lash hasn't changed - that would be troubling.
Did you turn the engine to TDC rear cylinder but on exhaust stroke then orient the cams to the conventional compression stroke cam and sprocket markings? Did you need a wrench on the cam sprocket bolt to turn the cams "off the buckets"?
Yes, change one thing at a time etc. If I had any sense I would listen to the advice I give others ;D
I know you are probably concerned about not getting any before and after bum-dyno results. Don't worry, I haven't forgotten how this bike runs
I've updated my prior post to be clearer - thought it best to keep instructionals together.
Don't think I should tell you this, but, a good running XZ400 just sold on TradeMe for $285 in Invercargill. :'(
Ouch! that's like twisting the knife...
POV- after reading your tutorial I think I'll stick to my way :P
I'd hoped someone else would have commented on the compression numbers. How do you feel about them?
Invercargill,, inbred capital of the world :o :o :o :o :o :o
Iain
NZ
Sometimes it would be handy to have four thumbs 'tho
Can't see that listing. Must have gone already at that price, but I'll never buy another bike from Invercargill
I have no real opinion about the compression readings other than to say it's pleasing that they are within 5%, and disappointing they are so far away from spec - though I expected some difference being a cold test and all.
Internet opinions on the difference vary so wildly that they are of no use whatsoever.
Surely someone else here must have done a compression test or am I the only one here who does any work on his bike. The silence is deafening sometimes.
+1 about being within 5% and low expectations of actual compared to spec. My skepticism may be for reasons other than just a cold test though. Also agreed is trying to find consensus on the interwebs.
My feeling is a compression gage is more valuable as a comparative tool rather than something for measuring absolutes. The more experience you amass with that particular gage - especially on different engine types - the more valuable it becomes. Building a history over time on a particular engine using a particular gage is also of great value. Use it on engines known to be healthy as well as sickly ones to build confidence.
I have several gages and none agree 100%. I believe I may have the identical HF unit you now have which seems to read lower than my other two. The other 2 are a MAC with a rubber tipped short steel extension and a Craftsman with rubber hose. Both utilize a Schrader at the spark plug hole end.
I measured my XZ shortly after buying it with approx. 6k miles using the HF gage. The figures were 130-135 front and 125-130 rear using the HF gage. This was done cold with spark plugs removed, full battery, and WFO throttle. Both cylinders built pressure at the same rate.
Did you follow up the cold (and I'm assuming dry) test with a small amount of oil in each cylinder? Good luck finding consensus on what % improvement spells bad rings BTW. Also, did you happen to use the long rubber hose attachment for your test?
Yes I used the long hose. That would pressurise the same but take a little longer is that right?
I didn't do the oil thing, I thought of it, but it was late, and I was just happy it wasn't 30PSI
There's not much I can do to fix it if I do discover problems. 400 parts are even less available than 550 ones
Quote from: ProphetOfDoom on January 15, 2014, 05:51:11 PM
Yes I used the long hose. That would pressurise the same but take a little longer is that right?
One would think so but I recall reading a paper on this subject that suggested otherwise. I think it had to do with having a (non leaking) Schrader at the hose end that fits into the plug hole. It mattered more on small engines as compared to a 5.7 litre small block for instance. The author had some calculations and it all seemed reasonable but I'd have to look for the article.
Of course. That took a moment to sink in !!! - the valve is up by the gauge, not at the bottom.
Even if the gauge is accurate, without a valve at the base of the hose, you are effectively increasing the volume of the cylinder with your hose, and so you will get a lower compression reading than would actually be experienced in the cylinder with the spark plug in.
With the valve up on the gauge the un-valved part gets released every cycle, and so will never build up to its true value. The longer the hose, the less pressure. If the hose was long enough, you would get almost zero pressure no matter how long you cranked.
If the valve were at the bottom, you would eventually get an accurate reading regardless of the hose length - a longer hose would just take longer.
None of this matters if comparing readings on the same setup, but it's a big deal if comparing between mates, or against a spec sheet where their gauges may have differing unvalved volume,
Yes it would be more of an issue on small engines because the percentage increase of volume would be greater
Yes, all that. :)
progress report please :)
Not great progress.
I found the floats were not floating so well. With the float height set correctly, the float level was 15mm below the gasket, not 20mm. They seem watertight, so I reset and checked levels gain. Spot on now.
Everything back together, and pressed the GO button. It cranks and cranks, but not a sign of ignition. Grrrr. Spark is looking a bit weak, but it should still go bang occasionally. There's definitely fuel I can see it coming out the accelerator pump.
Then I noticed a pool of oil under the bike coming from the rear valve cover I think. That one had a brand new gasket too. Not sure what is going on there but it's coming off again.
I found the problem, there was a tiny chunk of gasket cement I'd missed when I cleaned it all out. these don't need or benefit from cement in there.
Replaced the rear head gasket, and a couple of the bolts that were feeling like they were made of clay. I'll be wanting a set for my racer but these are not available from Yamaha and they don't look like generic parts.
New spark plugs also as the ones in there were correct spec resistor plugs but with US spec resistor caps. The two don't go together so well.
Started first time, and other than some smoke coming from the rear pipe. Either my fix isn't quite fixed, or it's just burning off the exhaust cement, and oil that had leaked on to it.
I need to run it up on the manometer, do a road test and top up the fluids but otherwise (with any luck) I'm just about done.
Time to celebrate? ;)
Not quite. I thought I was done about 3 days in to it, but that was wishful thinking.
I think I have a handle on the intermittent starting issue. Seems it starts OK with 50% choke, NO throttle action. Any more choke or throttle and nothing will start it for the rest of the day. Have synced the carbs, adjusted mixtures best I can so time to get the tank back on and take it for a road test.
I guess she's a bit temperamental with the choke. Definitely looking forward to your riding impression.
Great progress
Today I discovered a split in the petcock vacuum hose. It was brand new! That's what you get for buying vacuum hose from people who make gumboots.
I listed the bike for sale last week, and a guy came round today and bought it on the spot. I'm a bit out of pocket over the whole exercise, but at least I can concentrate on my proper bike again now.
Congrats on the sale. Let the real fun begin again with the racer.
So the split hose explained hard starting?
What about twingled riding impressions?
Yes. Starting much better now, but still not going well at higher revs so it will be sold before I get an impression either way. Sorry about that.
Did you get a chance to have a decent ride on it before it parted company? What you really need is a European bike to keep that European car company.... something with German precision ;D
My car is French - should I get a Solex?
Ha ha. I'd like to see you ride that through the Molesworth Station Road.
OK so I'd be dead keen for a Molesworth trip. I've wanted to do that for 30 years.
http://www.doc.govt.nz/Documents/parks-and-recreation/places-to-visit/nelson-marlborough/molesworth-brochure.pdf (http://www.doc.govt.nz/Documents/parks-and-recreation/places-to-visit/nelson-marlborough/molesworth-brochure.pdf)
Not much of a challenge on big arse 1100GS BMWs though. What say we get a bunch of C50s with dirt tyres ? It's open 31st Oct to April, so perhaps next spring ?
Now that does sound like fun. I'm up for that 8)
Have you got MacGyver's number for when we need him to weld up the broken frames?
Tig would be into this, I think he did something crazy like going to Alaska on a scooter
Or was it South America? Alaska to Argentina - we were both right :)
I heard from the guy I sold the XZ400 to in the weekend.
He's had an experienced race mechanic working on it for many hours and he can't figure out why it's making no power either.
Well at least that makes it something unusual - I'd have felt like a real dick if it had been something like a loose wire. I gave him a pile of TCI boxes from my stash to try - otherwise I'm completely without ideas. Not that I have to care so much any more :-)
Did they "de-twingle" it and start from factory parameters?
I don't know what they have done. I think the twingling was the only weird thing I did, and they've been told about it.
Seems it was a TCI issue. The one that came with it was out one cylinder, the replacement I put in not advancing so made no power. I'd never come across that before.
I've had two TCI failures. Neither was like that.
Lack of advance would certainly explain the lack of power - thanks for the update. I'll bet that was fun to check as your sighting eye and timing light gets coated with oil mist. :o :)
Quote from: ProphetOfDoom on February 05, 2014, 09:34:57 PM
I found the problem, there was a tiny chunk of gasket cement I'd missed when I cleaned it all out. these don't need or benefit from cement in there.
Replaced the rear head gasket, and a couple of the bolts that were feeling like they were made of clay. I'll be wanting a set for my racer but these are not available from Yamaha and they don't look like generic parts.
New spark plugs also as the ones in there were correct spec resistor plugs but with US spec resistor caps. The two don't go together so well.
Started first time, and other than some smoke coming from the rear pipe. Either my fix isn't quite fixed, or it's just burning off the exhaust cement, and oil that had leaked on to it.
what gaskets do you need? I may have some here
I need to run it up on the manometer, do a road test and top up the fluids but otherwise (with any luck) I'm just about done.
Thanks, Let me know what you have and we'll work out something. I don't NEED anything at the moment, but always nice to have spares.
I have the rocker cover gaskets brand spanking new even. I couldn't believe how much they were being sold for. 112 each (they are for a 400, I'm not sure if the 550 is the same )
The 400 are the same as the 550.
Ouch $112 ! lets hope mine last a while.
They were the last ones avaliable from a dealer in nz Apperantly. And I didn't pay that much for them as they had been sitting for a while.
I've been threatening my bike with a shim adjustment. If you are selling a shim tool and rocker gaskets, let me know.
Cheers John M
Hey John, I thought you had bought a shim tool. I'm done with mine for a while so you can borrow it if you want.
Hey pinholez. Sorry i didn't check back here. Got your email and replied. I'll whip them out. Let me know about the carbs.
I don't have the tool though sorry