Hello all, I'm planning on fixing my V as good yet as cheaply as possible so I can hopefully sell it for a new bike by spring. My brother thinks only the jets need to be cleaned but I have a feeling it's gonna be more than that. I just called a Yamaha dealership & the parts guy said he'll be able to order a carb kit but he needs to know what i need first so im going to dig into the carbs. Please feel free to guide me through if you've done something similar to reluctantly part ways with your V.
Generally, unless you have damaged parts in your carbs you mostly just need to make sure they are clean and adjusted. If your jets are corroded they need to be replaced but usually they can be cleaned and reused. Put an in line fuel filter between the petcock and fuel pump.
Make sure you have no air leaks or vacuum leaks in your fuel system.
Thanks! I was wondering, would I have to replace the gaskets every time I take apart the carbs? The motorcycle shop parts guy kept mentioning it when I asked for a carb rebuild/cleaning kit.
Your gaskets should be reuseable unless they are torn or otherwise unuseable. Just be careful when you are removing the tops of the carbs and you should be good.
I hope so! The jackass who "fixed" my bike last time put new gaskets in. I'm gonna try to get the carbs out sometime this month & take them to a PROFESSOINAL mechanic to look @ & clean them, then I'll have the elecrical issue to take care of then she should be good to sell. I just bought a 2/8 phillips screwdriver, a shop towel, and a fluid catch pan, is there anything else I should get to get the carbs out and/or check my electrical syestems? Oh, & one more thing, I tried to unscrew the electrical box on the right handle bar but the screws are so rusted I got one out with help from wd-40 but the other screw has pretty much lost its teeth. :P Does anyone know how to get a stubborn screw with a "destroyed" head loose?
I would use a drill and very carefully remove the head of the screw. You need to use a drill that is the same size as the head of the screw. When the head comes off you will have the shaft left to grab with some vise grips after taking the two pieces apart. Soak it real good in some pb blaster before trying the vise grips.
Alrighty, I'll see what I can do. :)
Okay, I've been trying to remove the screws on the electrical box on the right handlebar but one of the screw heads is destroyed, so I got a couple of drill & extractor sets to remove it. I followed the instructions on the back of the packages & even watched tutorials on YouTube, but all i managed to do was make a deep hole in the screw & I still cant get the extractor in good enough to get the screw out. :-\ This is going to lead to a bigger problem cause the screw holding the choke cable to the carb is also nearly mush. Please tell me I'm not the only one who's had this problem. :-[
You don't need the extractor. Has the head of the screw fallen off from drilling? If not then keep drilling until the head of the screw comes off. You have to drill to the level where the shaft meets the head.
You must select a drill that is at least slightly wider than the shank of the screw. When you drill through the head and reach the shank of the screw the head just falls off. Once you have the heads removed the switch assembly should separate from the handlebar. Then you can remove the remains of the screws easily with pliers if necessary.
Hmmm, both drill bits I bought are fairly small & I really dont want to spend more money on getting another drill, could i drill within the head till im able to break it off? ???
Seesh, PM me your address and I'll send you a drill
Quote from: 82NightRyder on January 19, 2015, 01:57:22 AM
Hmmm, both drill bits I bought are fairly small & I really dont want to spend more money on getting another drill, could i drill within the head till im able to break it off? ???
You have a motorcycle and you don't have a drill set! Life could become difficult without basic tools.
yeah, I know, I'm still reletivly new to this but im learning. But hey, all the things I'm getting to fix my V can also be used on my next motorcycle. :)
Well, maybe.... That is a good approach though! Chances are ,if you eventually buy every tool you'll need to work on a Vision, you'll probably have many more than you need to maintain an average newer model. :)
Huzaa! I finally got that stubborn screw out! 8) the head broke off, still need to get the rest of the screw out though. While I was high on my victory, i tried the same with the choke screw, but to no avail. :( 2 other bits & a wrench & a pair of pliers later, I wonder if I should go bigger or deeper, I'm trying to repeat the success i had with the last screw.
Have you tried heating the area around the screw with a hair dryer ?
That sometimes helps
If you haven't already done so, acquire a small Vice Grip tool and use it in place of pliers in this situation. A small Vice Grip tool should be a foundational component for any life long tool box. The sooner, the better.
I don't think I ever heard of a "vice grip" before, I'll check it out maybe even buy a heat gun. :D
I think he meant 'vise grip'
Okay, I bought a "vise grip", but it seems there are different kinds I hope I got the right one. I also got wire strippers/cutters, a heat gun, air compressor, circuit tester, & other nick-knacks, hope fully I wont need to get anything else for a while cause its cutting into my grocery budget. I'm just trying to get the carbs out so I can have a pro shop clean them with little cost & in the mean time find & fix an electrical short. Is there anything I'm missing for these two jobs?
Quote from: 82NightRyder on January 23, 2015, 06:14:33 PM
I'm just trying to get the carbs out so I can have a pro shop clean them with little cost & in the mean time find & fix an electrical short. Is there anything I'm missing for these two jobs?
Good luck with the professional low cost carb cleaning. Ask for help with either job if and when you need it. BDC
Search the forums - there is plenty of info on how to clean your carbs
Quote from: cobol74 on January 23, 2015, 04:08:31 PM
I think he meant 'vise grip'
Well,, in the early 80's I was in Biloxi Mississippi at a strip club, when a lovely young lady sat down beside me and asked "would you buy a girl a drink" at the same time she gave me a 'VICE grip' between my legs :o
I bought the "toothed" kind of vise grip, heated the screw with my heat gun, & it worked! the screw came out with the head & tread attached, but there's a problem: how do I get that big black chunk of plastic on top of the carbs off? I dont see anywhere where its screwed or bolted in but it wont budge when i try to pull it off. ??? Help?
Look down on the right side of the carbs where they go into the large black chunk of plastic and you should see two clamps with Phillips screws near the top of each carb that hold the air breather onto the carbs. Loosen them up and remove the airbox. BDC
Okay, I got the air box off, & all the tubes off & screws off or loose that were holding the carbs to the engine or frame. Now to FINALLY get the carbs off! Its a little loose but wont come off do I just need to give it more muscle?
Pretty much a replay of what you've just done but at the bottom of the carbs where they go into the rubber manifold attached to the heads, loosen the clamps and pull straight up. BDC
Very Important Tip!!!: Immediately stuff a rag down the throat of each carb. Do it now before anything has a chance to fall into the engine. After you get the carbs off the engine, immediately stuff a rag down each intake port for the same reason. If anything ever drops into the intake trac, you are so screwed. Do you have a Haynes Manual for your bike?
[/quote]
Well,, in the early 80's I was in Biloxi Mississippi at a strip club, when a lovely young lady sat down beside me and asked "would you buy a girl a drink" at the same time she gave me a 'VICE grip' between my legs :o
[/quote]
Better times than what I had the last time I drank in Gulfport Missisippi, I knew it was time to leave when one the Aussie sailors I was drinking with said "We like to fight don't we matey" when an altercation broke out. Guess he didn't know I'm a lover, not a fighter. BDC
Quote from: Re-Vision on January 26, 2015, 12:02:09 AM
Guess he didn't know I'm a lover, not a fighter. BDC
So you ripped off his clothes right there in the bar?
There it is! :)
I was expecting a reply from POD to the "strip club lady's vice grip" comment, but better late than never!
Okay, I got the carbs off the boots/intake manifolds, but I can't seem to pull the carbs out of the frame from the top, & there's a big metal part marked m-something corporation on the right side of it. I've been searching the forums & it seems tiger has the best solution, the folks who wrote my repair manual left out a bunch of details. You shouldn't have to take the carbs themselves apart just to get them out of the bike, right?
noo.the carbs are coming out from the left side of the frame very easely.
Here's how I take the carbs out. On the top left side of bike where the wiring harness is located, loosen the harness from the tabs holding it to frame and pull it up. Disconnect choke and throttle cables from carbs and remove carbs from bike under frame rail at left rear near rear cylinder. BDC
Alrighty, I'll try it that way. :)
yea,that's the best way.Just i could not explain that ;)
Someone should make a video of removing the carbs. It seems to trip up all the newbs
Quote from: ProphetOfDoom on January 27, 2015, 02:46:54 AM
Someone should make a video of removing the carbs. It seems to trip up all the newbs
Yup, and is probably responsible for many of the broken carb drain pipes.
Its done. I got the carbs out, but I had to partially disassemble them to get them out then I reassembled them. Im getting pretty sick & tired of messing with those carbs which is why im taking them to a shop to inspect & clean them. But before I do, is there anything i should include on the carbs? I think another guy on here said he included the fuel filter attached to it.
Finally able to post pics from my phone, though the quality isn't great. Here's my fuse box, notice anything unusual? One is not like the others, & its the only one that lights up my circuit tester's light.
Good opportunity to replace the fuse box with modern automotive blade type.
Good idea! I'm gonna call some shops & try to bring this to a close. 8)
Something you might look at when putting in a new fuse box. I just did one and found the corrosion on the wire strands so bad that I replaced the wire going to the battery. This is probably normal for a thirty-two year old wiring harness that draws pretty heavy current. Just undo a little tape and replace any corrosive looking wires you might have and eliminate potential resistive connections. Get at the least a six fuse box. BDC
I tried removing the fuse box & harness, but everytime I unplug something, there's a whole nother river of the stuff going deeper into the bike. So as with the carbs, Im probably going to take it to a shop to get it fixed, if someone doesn't buy it from me by then. & when I put it up for storage, I followed the owner's manual & coated the inside of the tank with motor oil, can I put the gas back in & start it up & run? Or do I have to get the oil out?
Pretty sure it would start better with only gasoline and not the oil. The spark is already weak, so any added interference would just make it more difficult to start.
What does it say about motor oil in the petrol tank? Never seen that one
Page 81.
1. Drain fuel tank, fuel lines, and carburetor float bowl.
2. Remove the empty fuel tank, pour a cup of SAE 10W30 or SAE 20W40 motor oil in tank, shake
the tank to coat the inner surfaces thoroughly and drain off excess the oil. Reinstall the tank.
There are six more steps for storage. BDC
Thanks Bobby - in that case I'd swirl some petrol in the tank and then discard when putting it back in service. Small amounts probably wouldnt do much harm, but larger amounts will foul plugs and screw with your mixtures
Good news! I got a couple of problems fixed, thanks to help from a neighbor. First, the choke cable is now working probably, & second, the messed up fuse has been replaced by a direct current. Though the direct current may only be a temporary fix. But there's bad news, I forgot about the problem with my tank being all rusty cause there was no fuel going into the carbs. So I bought a kit & im currently trying to knock as much rust off as possible with diesel & some nuts & bolts.
A word of caution: fuses are there for a good reason. If you eliminate a fuse, any item in that circuit can be damaged if there is an over voltage. :police:
Quote from: fret nut on February 18, 2015, 01:58:06 AM
A word of caution: fuses are there for a good reason. If you eliminate a fuse, any item in that circuit can be damaged if there is an over voltage. :police:
Or the bike will catch fire
So, would you recommend getting new fuse parts just in case?
You need one 30 Amp Main and three 10 Amp Branch fuses that were made for a twelve Volt DC system Having proper spare fuses may well save you from being stranded somewhere. BDC