The Sh775 R/R came in and I was doing some reading that these so need some airflow to work efficiently. It doesn't get as hot as the stock shunt R/R, but doesn't run as cool as a mosfet R/R. Knowing that the stock location is taking 3 steps back, I found a new spot. What do you think of my solution? I used 2 flat L brackets from Ace hardware with one of them getting a bit "re bent". I'm going to use the passenger foot peg bolt with a longer bolt and spacer for the rear. For the front I bent the L bracket and will use the bolt on the kick plate to hold it in.
Here's my mockup. I run MAC exhaust so no pipe on the left side.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/912/3SQbRe.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pc3SQbRej)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/537/NuedDv.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/exNuedDvj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/538/HPvHIu.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/eyHPvHIuj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/673/yRi5Mi.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/ipyRi5Mij)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/538/b12UY8.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/eyb12UY8j)
Looks like a good fit. clear of the swing arm and wires out of the way. I think the Polaris connectors are a bit more "weather tight" too.
I have just re installed a stock R / R is the original place and am feeling a bit too reserved right now.
So I just primed and painted the mounting brackets. In a perfect world, I'd go for stainless L brackets, but the store didn't have them--only zinc. The zinc was really easy to bend with my press though, so I can't complain.
I'm just waiting on the Triumph pigtail and then I'll get moving on this. It's due to ship today so it's not something that ships fast.
http://www.2wheelpros.com/oem-parts/triumph-link-lead-regulator-t2500676-part.html
Beware of the intense vibration at the passenger footpeg location.
I finally got that Triumph pigtail in today. Anyway I ran the positive and negative leads right to the battery and soldered up the 3 stator wires. Nice and clean and not too bad on the wiring since it's all on that side anyway.
It's a bit warm to the touch, but not hot after idling. It's raining now, but I'll take it out over the weekend. I'll dig out my IR thermometer and do some measurements too.
I'll reach down too and see if I can detect any vibration.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/540/hgcGGb.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/f0hgcGGbj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/540/J77zRD.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/f0J77zRDj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/910/JNfKqd.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/paJNfKqdj)
Quick update. I just went on a 6 mile loop with no issues. My temp gauge when warmed up is usually one needle width to the right of the midline on the temp gauge. After the Series R/R, it's a needle width to the left of the midline. Not a lot, but enough to notice. The temp never made it to the midline at all, even when sitting at the lights. Air temp was usual for S. FL- high 80's and 90% humidity.
A far cry from when I got it stock and it would hit the red zone after idling 5 minutes at a light.
Any voltage measurements? Mine is around 13.9V at idle, 14.5V at normal engine speeds.
I have just picked up an SH775AA from a local wrecker off a Polaris farm quad. Got it for NZ$80 including the plugs and about 18" of tail wire. (That's about US$50 in todays weak NZ$)
I will probably tuck it in behind the battery box. The Mosfet I have at the moment in that position has run fine, and although the series R/R will run a bit hotter, I can't see that it should be an issue compared to the original shunt R/R's.
God willing, toasted stators will become a thing of the past.
I will do before and after readings at the battery to compare the output performance of both R/R's.
All that extra power and a cooler running engine would be a bonus, but I would just be happy with a reliable stator.
Sorry I didn't see the port about voltage. Looks like I'm at 13.9/14.3 or so. The voltage slowly starting climbing with the revs and slowly reduced to 13.9 when at idle.
Here is my mounting option:
(From the Parts and Upgrades section)
I used the battery box mounting points but made a bracket to orient the SH775 transversely in the space below the shock mount.
(http://plan9.ootfab.com:90/external/Vision/tn_IMAG2324.jpg)
(http://plan9.ootfab.com:90/external/Vision/tn_IMAG2330.jpg)
(http://plan9.ootfab.com:90/external/Vision/tn_IMAG2331.jpg)
Also reorganized the relays to make space.
(http://plan9.ootfab.com:90/external/Vision/tn_IMAG2335.jpg)
And the connections required only to route the harness power plug to the battery box side.
(http://plan9.ootfab.com:90/external/Vision/tn_IMAG2333.jpg)
I may add a small heat shield on the bottom to reflect radiant heat from the exhaust.
Good job. I like the location. Hopefully, it will stay cool out there.
I suspect there is a bit more airflow in that space than tucked up against the battery box. I am thinking also that the bracket will add some dissipation as well. The coating could be scraped off mount points on the regulator to provide metal:metal contact.
A small heat shield at the bottom of the regulator would mitigate most of the heat soak from the exhaust. A shield attached to the cam cover and down could nearly isolate the regulator.
After going through all the hassle to acquire the SH775, make the bracket and do the wiring the first thing to heat up on the engine is the stator cover.
I don't imagine I got it wrong but basically the three stator wires are the input and the output goes to the harness. I have the Triumph plugs and omitted the extra wire at the harness connection.
Right now I am assuming either something else is wrong in the harness or this (this particular R/R) was a waste of time (and money).
What are your voltages?
I'll take a look at it again this weekend.
So much for plug-n-play. :laugh:
Quote from: jefferson on January 06, 2020, 08:56:46 PM
What are your voltages?
Battery has been charged then allowed to rest. It sits at 12.6vdc.
When running at idle each phase of the stator puts out ~6vac and rises to 20+vac when revved.
I put the old RR on and measured the output. About 10.6vdc unloaded at idle. Revving produces 20vdc quickly.
I put the new RR on and get 0vdc. I must have gotten a bad RR.
Quote from: injuhneer on January 11, 2020, 02:06:48 PM
Quote from: jefferson on January 06, 2020, 08:56:46 PM
What are your voltages?
Battery has been charged then allowed to rest. It sits at 12.6vdc.
When running at idle each phase of the stator puts out ~6v and jumps up when revved.
I put the old RR on and measured the output. About 10.6vdc unloaded. Revving produces 20vdc quickly.
I put the new RR on and get 0vdc. I must have gotten a bad RR.
I put the OEM RR/VR back in and checked at idle with everything connected. Battery with lights on at idle was a steady 12.4vdc for about 30 minutes.
Your battery shows good voltage, but everything else isn't up to snuff. You might check each phase of your stator to see if they're grounded out.
Quote from: jefferson on January 11, 2020, 04:53:29 PM
Your battery shows good voltage, but everything else isn't up to snuff. You might check each phase of your stator to see if they're grounded out.
That was my intended next step. All three have ground.
I'll pull the cover next to see if there is an a obvious ground problem or if it is fried.
I have a stator from an Africa Twin on the way. There is another thread where a ROV'r (WGuaire) installed one in a bike he is reviving.
If the stator is good and the SH775 is good I should be back in business by lunch time tomorrow.
Quote from: injuhneer on January 24, 2020, 07:58:04 AM
I have a stator from an Africa Twin on the way. There is another thread where a ROV'r (MikeScoot) installed one in a bike he is reviving.
It's not me that is using the Africa Twin stator. I ordered one for a Kawasaki but have not yet installed it (too busy sorting other engine issues).
I got mine (STATOR) through Ebay; "Generator Stator Coil For Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R 1995-1997 ZZR600 ZX600 90-05 TZ5". It looks very similar to the pic posted on the 1983 Getting 11.96 volts thread. There were quite a few on Ebay and all very reasonably priced. The ad. seemed a bit deceptive though. It appeared the part was held locally (Western Australia) but in fact it came from Hong Kong. It was, however, delivered quite quickly.
Within a day or two I will advise whether it fits.
Sorry MikeScoot. Reading so many messages got my wires crossed. Do report on the Ninja stator though. :-)
As reported in the other thread the Africa Twin stator does indeed fit but only just. It is thicker than the OEM but as a result has more output.
I did wire it to the SH775 and run through tests. No grounds. About 50VAC in each phase at idle. Connected to the battery at idle getting a steady 13.6VDC. Revving to 2000 rpm produces a quick climb to ~14.7 VDC with a bit of fluctuation when lighting is operated (brake, high beam, signals).
It seems to be sorted. The stator cover now seems to get warm but on par with the rest of the engine case in that area. There isn't a huge difference in temps by touch. Next test run (on Saturday) when I am replacing the fuse panel I will get out the non-contact thermometer and record some values.