Alright, Alright! It's time for a good project. The message board is like a bike in that you've got to use it or lose it. Don't mind if I take you guys out for a spin!
My Keyster rebuild kits arrived by FexEx today, courtesy of Sirusconinc. They went from Ontario, CANADA to Memphis TN, to Portland OR, in about two days. (My hat is off to all the package handlers,...especially the gals picking goodies off the shelf! ) :o 8) :police:
(http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/wkYAAOSw8RJXBrSO/s-l500.jpg)
Keyster Kit #: KY0501 for the '82 model.
Purchased on eBay for approx $82 each from SIRUSCONINC. Confirmation email recommends saving 20% by ordering direct. NOW YOU KNOWWW!
I ordered the shaft seals (Part # 256-14997-00 ) through the local YAM dealer, four of them for about $26, coming from Wisconsin in a few days.
Later, I will still need to install a fuel filter, and probably POR the tank.
SO FAR! I've removed the carb unit (WIGGLE WIGGLE WIGGLE!), taken away the fuel pump, separated the two bodies and opened up the front one, scraped off the gasket and removed the emulsion tube and accelerator jet.
Yeah, there was some gross, rusty varnish and nasty fuel clogging around in there. I wish I had known to drain the bowls when I parked it last. I guess it doesn't take much crud to foul the entire operation, so...let's just hope this job brings my #1 CYL back to life, huh?
Not sure if PINHOLENZ is still kickin' it around here, but I would shake his kiwi-pickin' hand quite vigorously for his Video Series...I wish I were skilled enough to contribute to the project. 8) :o Well, I may be a dummy but this is not my first challenge, so LET'S GET IT ON!
I intend to dip my carb-babies in gallon of Berryman's Chem Dip, $18 courtesy of the Wal-Slave Corp.
QUESTIONS FOR THE PRO BROS:
1.) There are plastic fittings on the outside of the bodies. I assume these must be removed? But I want to be certain, you know...before I go and crack them in half. :-X
2.) Screws on the throttle plate were definitely peened over with some force....there is a dimple/ridge pattern similar to a checkerboard or # hashmark. I have read discussions here recommending filing or a Dremel. I have both, although perhaps not an adequate bit for the power tool. I am worried about bending the shaft, as I have a tendency to overwork things improperly and also leave tool marks. :-[ I would really, really like to not fcuk this job up, so any advice in this area or others would be met with heartfelt thanks.
3.) Some of the discussions seem to reference the pilot air jets being turned out specs like 2.5 or 3.25 turns....what does that mean, turns OUT from fully seated?
Well, it seems like they just come out with a flathead driver, so I should.....remove the stuff I see included in the kit, and all the tiny set-screws and such? What about the tall brass tubes protruding here and there? Seems like the center jet comes out when you remove a black rubber cap on the outside of the body?
Why can we not dip brass?
Is there anything else beyond this point that needs to be removed?
X.) What else NOT to do, besides breaking the float and losing the tiniest o-ring?
I'm flying by the seat of my pants here, just like always!
With Love,
-Spaceman
PROGRESS REPORT:
I believe I have taken out everything that is supposed to....
I used a couple of spring clamps to hold the body to my work table, and used a pop rivet and a lady's hammer to drive out the float pivot pin.
Unscrewed lots of pilots and such. Kept it all nice and neat. I used a regular drill with bit attachments to break loose any of the stubborn screws, proud to have not ruined any.
I used a triangular file to de-burr the screws on the throttle plate.....the seals feel fine, but I will replace them anyway. However, in PINHOLENZ' video, there is a white spacer disc on the throttle shaft that did not manifest on my disassembly. Is that a special feature of the Australasian model?
I read another thread which expains that the plastic fittings must be removed carefully.
What about the tall brass tubes and such?
Does there seem to be anything I have missed, or does this bad boy look ready for a skinnydip?
English character
Eng char
I seem to be having trouble uploading photos from my phone.
Turns out, I got the black plastic fitting out.....after I snapped the pipelet off the small, white one. DAMMIT! I will probably have to try melting the two pieces back together, and maybe some plastic weld.
...maybe I have done enough for one day! >:(
A FOUR LETTER WORD THAT STARTS WITH "F".
.....and a creative solution!
Notice the brass tube extending from the plastic 'T', you need to find some similar material, like at a model airplane or model train shop. You should be able to heat the tube and shove it into the plastic 'T' body, then cut it to appropriate length. The 'rubber' hose should fit snugly on that brass tube. It's pretty easy once you have figured out how to do it.
Now you have direct experience with these fittings. Good luck with the rest of the carb journey.
Neat suggestion. Thanks bud! :)
Ohhh, yeahh! :o
I did a part-by-part matchup to see what goes where, out with the old, in with the new.
I found the #60 jet hiding wayyy in the bottom. I had to take the Dremel to my largest small precision screwdriver, and take some meat off the shaft so as to reach deep enough. Severely butchered the head, but what good are replacements unless you use them, right?
I slipped one O-ring onto a jet matching the old one.
I still have a tiny tinyyy o-ring and a similarly sized flat washer which seem to be mystery parts (if not for use in accelerator pump, still assembled)
One more question I have is about a small paper gaket disc which rides behind the aluminum fixture that diagnals the bore throat? It is part number 11H-14198-00. Seems like something the cleaner will destroy, huh?
And while we are talking about gaskets, how'bout those intake manifolds? I intend to re-seal them with liquid electrical tape as advised....I wonder if that Plasti-Dip product might be similarly useful... Paper gaskets 11H-13556-00 . Look like about $10 apiece on eBay. They seem like the most ordinary gasket in the world, I find it hard to think they are uniquely fitted for ONLY this application. I will have to ask the dealer...... I had previously asked at O'Reillys for gasket-making paper, but the only things he had to sell me were huge rolls of it. There has got to be an easier wayyy...
Gorsh, it's almost midnight....AGAIN!
Congratulations on your accomplishment. Now you get to reassemble and see if you actually got all the dirt out. In my case, the first time I did it, it took three times to get them right. Which is why I have BDST carbs now. Good luck.
Thanks, Walt!
Oddly enough, I haven't yet found the thread where surely you talk about your conversion...I thought that kind of talk about a compatible upgrade was mostly-untested theoretical speculation.
So.........concerning the brass parts that must be re-used, specifically the emulsion tube and accelerator jet....how can we ensure their cleanliness? Is the solvent un-safe for brass?
I used lacquer thinner for the pre-dip cleaning. It seemed to leave some white residue behind on the long brass tubes.
All I know is that I hardly slept at all through the night AND I had to wake up early on this Saturday and I am anxious for stores to open so I can shop and get back to my project.
POUR!NG RA!N today, . . . . . . just like always...
I placed accel jet, emulsion tube and center hammerhead shark type piece with central pilot whatchyamacallit in a small cup of MARVEL MYSTERY OIL, as a pre-bath before the Chem Dip.
I have a handy-dandy battery-op toothbrush which I will tape to the outside of chem bath, to agitate the liquid while it soaks.
I found a roll of rubber fiber sheet out of which to fashion my gaskets with lots of extra. Auto Zone, $5.
Carb cleaners spray and foaming engine degreaser spray, total $2.29 KMart special.
Later, I will polish the hell out of the entire motor with BAKING SODA TOOTHPASTE and make that chrome reflect the dirt in my TEETH!
A few more items and I'll be ready for ROUND 2!
Today I ran around picking up extra supplies like Threadlock compound, a badass chrome and glass fuel filter, cleaners and sprays.
I did two baths of 30 mins with a hot rinse, air hose and scrub in between. I was definitely not impressed with the results....it really didn't dissolve grease at all. Even regular carb cleaner seems 10 times more potent, I don't know. I feel like I wasted some time and some money in that regard.
I applied two coats of Liquid Tape to the intake boots and neatly fashioned a pair a gaskets. The boots don't look pretty,...I hope people won't point and stare! ::)
Nevertheless, I swapped out the needle and seat and all the jets, re-installed the float and then totally shattered the hell out of the white plastic overflow T, having applied a small layer of Plastic Weld. So....this will be an annoying diversion!
TOMORROW: More perseverance!
That is my error on the carb swap post. It is on the General Board in '83 Mods. After I got it up and running, Ron McCoy added that he has done the same swap and is happy with it as well. Too bad you missed it as you can buy a set of the FZR600 carbs for what you paid for your rebuild kits.
Quote from: Walt_M. on October 30, 2016, 04:40:34 AM
......you can buy a set of the FZR600 carbs for what you paid for your rebuild kits.
Or maybe a good used luggage rack.
I think about you EVERY DAY! :laugh: ;D
Believe me, I will buy your luggage rack next, before I worry about having the seat re-upholstered.
Got the carburetor re-assembled yesterday once the throttle valve seals were delivered. I replaced (almost) all the old hardware screws with stainless SHCS's, found it slightly more annoying to deal with, but I hope to not have to take her apart again soon...
I measured the floats from gasket surface to the bottom of the float where it would rest on the surface of the gas pooled in the bowl....made gentle adjustments.....fingers crossed!
Replacing as many hoses as practical. This Tygon seems like quality stuff.
I noticed that the screws for the butterfly shaft extend a few MM's beyond their exit hole.... Will this have effect on the wind drafting down the bore?
At this point I am anxious to throw it back in and try it out. Definitely feeling lazy about the next steps of bench testing for nozzle pattern and float level.
The weather channel predicts another sunny day tomorrow--it would be a miracle but I wouldn't mind catching a couple of bugs in my teeth!
I'm sure you don't want to hear this but did you peen or stake the protruding threads on the butterfly shaft screws? It doesn't matter what carburetors you have, if you had the butterflies out, you have to stake the screws when you put them back in.
No, I didn't. I dabbed a bit of red Locktite on each of them. That's not enough, huh?
So is this a mechanical/safety resort? Or is it more related to aerodynamics?
So uh.......best way to do that without bending the shaft? Take the tops back off and remove the secondari venturi, I suppose...
I found that a 5/8 spark plug socket will make contact with both screw heads at once to serve as an anvil, and a pointy punch just long enough to reach.....gosh, this is going to be a precarious operation!
While I am in there again, would anyone care to explain any importance to the orientation of collar flange which slips inside the bore, and the set screw which seems to lock it in place?
Also, is there any rotational importance for placement of emulsion tube?
Might not mind dropping in some rare earth magnets as suggested elsewhere, if they were affordably available, have not yet investigated.
It's a mechanical safety. You really don't want one of those screws going through the engine. When I last did mine I put a long screwdriver bit in a vise to support the screw head. It is very fiddly but you won't have to do it often.
For a vast assortment of magnets google K&J Magnets.
Thanks a lot. You guys are great. ;D
Today I removed petcock assembly, cleaned filter and mating surfaces, shook/rinsed out the tank over a sink. Blackness. Possibly of satanic origin. ⛽
Then I plugged the hole and poured a mixture of white vinegar + filtered water down the hatch. Shook it up every couple of hours. Drained and rinsed, but I am not convinced. It also left a fine film of rust residue, so I think another vinegar rinse is in orser, this time without water.
Stymied about the RESERVE tank, and how that operates....what is the best angle to tilt to drain it?
I also took some time to work on Ye Olde Dent, which happened several years ago when I whacked the tank in frustration. Ahh...my very-first no-start. #Nostalgia.
Anyway, I popped a large amount of it out. I can live with it for now.
Oh, boy!
She runs and rides again
...and there were only a couple of extra pieces, uh-heeYUPPP!
;D ;D ;D
Well....she DID!!!......zzz
:-[
She started to fire up this morning but spluttered and coughed out and then quit firing. Nearly drained the battery again, trying.
One problem I'm facing is a broken tachometer, which has never bothered me, except I'm not sure how to find 1300RPM.
Spent a while yesterday screwing back and forth with the idle adjuster. Damn, does that thing like to rev! Seems like even the slightest raise causes the thing to raaaaaaace high on idle before it will drop down to the actual setting.
I feel like I should have just left the floats where they were, jeep-dangiters!
You HAVE to sync your carbs with a manometer. A bench sync only gets it so close. It's an absolute MUST DO, and in my experience the #1 cause of hanging idle. Also not helped by vacuum leaks or poor float bowl levels. You have to re-sync after every mixture adjustment, then re- do your mixture till nothing changes.
1300 is too fast to adjust mixtures. Drop your idle till it's just on the verge of dying first
PS could you please downsize your images. They are impossible to see the whole thing at once. I reduce my iphone pics to 30% before uploading them and it works out about perfect size.
Yah sorry about my giant images. Kind of a problem, I'll see what I can do. Blame it on the touchscreen contraption here....(those viewing on PC should be able to right click/open in new tab for better view.) Why is everything in my life a pain in the ass? :-\
Ok, I hear what you're saying about the synch and will construct one with a better design. Nevertheless.....damn, how could such a crude device be more precise than the bright light test?
I miss the days when she was all right and dialed in, shiny and reliable.
Damn, I can't wait 'til I get a Kawasaki Vulcan! 8)