for all you 'newbies' (don't care what your post count is) i'm going to re-post this as it's a life or death issue.
IF YOU HAVE NOT CHECKED AND CHANGED YOUR REAR BRAKE BRACE BAR BOLTS, DO SO TODAY!!!
these are the two bolts, one on each end, that hold the straight bar on the rear drum to the frame behind the right foot peg.
we had a few of these found cracked last year, and a couple of them let go (put Kiawrench & his Vision out of comission for a while)
That brace plays the crucial role of keeping the read drum from turning, & everytime you hit the rear brake it is under stress. if that front bolt brakes YOU ARE GOING DOWN! the only question will be how far you'll fly as you launch off the bike...
if the rear bolt brakes you might be able to stop the bike safely...perhaps
is your life worth $2 worth of bolts?
Stay safe! --Lucky
DEC/2011:
I've been asked to ad another topic to this thread, & I think it is warrented. carefully inspect your old rear brake shoes for delamination. if they seperate, the rear brakes could lock in a similar manor:
http://ridersofvision.net/rovforum/index.php?topic=12800.0
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=15874.html
--Lucky
oooouuuccchhhhh!! reading this made my wallet and leg hurt!
no joke, replace those two bolts ,even if they look good,,, do it this week,, before they decide to break.
i was only doing 35 mph or so, rod broke the front bolt,pegged the pavement,dumped me in a very scary place-- on the tail of dragon, us 129. behind me were a stack of miata drivers with heavy gas pedals and the corner i slid into was all down hill just past the pavement.
The damage was enough to kill the bike, and lay me up for a good bit. just a note for those that think a dump at 30 is something you can "ride out on the high peg" - when a vision goes down at speed, it will slide, then flip,pounding whatever is on it into the ground and then nail you to a tree. the pounding part hurts the most . been there
I was lucky enough to have the rear one go and not the front 2. Still almost crapped myself! ;D
One of the first things I did was replace them. Original ones were rusted and coroded!
Good advice Lucky,
I had one break in city traffic last year, nothing too bad, just tore up my rear brake tension rod, and wrapped it around the rear brake drum... If I was doing any speed over 20 mph I would have went down.
The stay arm is on the right side and attaches to the bottom of the brake backing plate. Replace both the front and rear bolts. It is not nearly as big a job to replace them as it would be to fix all the things that could be damaged it you don't!
Quote from: dchakrab on June 21, 2006, 12:16:22 PM
Can someone post a picture? Just want to make sure I'm looking for the right bolts.
I'm assuming this is a cheap replacement...where am I going and what am I asking for
Dave, check out this link and save a shortcut..you'll see diagrams of (most) of the parts and parts numbers.
http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/myyamaha/prompt/L3Nwb3J0L3BhcnRzL2hvbWUuYXNweA==/Parts%20Catalog/starthere.aspx
Don't know if you have a dealer nearby, but I ordered the two bolts tonight for less than $6 with tax.
I'll go OEM from the dealer when it's not big bux... I call it "feed the dealer"
they're a 1/2 mile down the road and I'd like to keep it that way :D
I always make a print out of the diagrams and part numbers for my "personal parts consultant".. "Brad"... when I go to there. It's easier for him and I can double check to see that he's ordering what I want.
I had a rear bolt come out on my harley the one that screws into the brake hub. I was doing 55 when I touched the rear brake pedal and all hell broke loose! It locked up my rear wheel and wound the brake rod up on my hub. I was sliding all over the road but thank God I didn't lay it down! It happened so fast there was no time to plan ahead. Scared me so bad I drilled a hole through the new bolt and wired it in!
Ok I see 3 bolts on the yamaha motor website under the rear wheel picture. I think the ones that need replacing are numbers 29 and 34 but I wasn't sure about number 19. Could someone please clarify this for me?
The OEM part numbers that I have are:
Number 19- 90101-06291-00
Number 29- 90109-08406-00
Number 34- 90109-08368-00
Thanks!
-Heather
Heather - #19 is a bolt that holds the brake lever on a splined shaft going to the brake pads. The other two is what they're talking about. Even if that #19 bolt broke, the lever should stay on the splined shaft and wouldn't launch you off. >:(
Thank you!!!! :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
-Heather
???......."when was the last time you changed the brake tension bar bolts on YOUR Vision?"....... ???Don't know where they are yet ::).......ASK before YOU have an accident....... :o
we did ours about two or three weeks ago. I did mine and it was so much fun, I just had to let my brother do his own ;)
grumble, grumble "plink".... yep... I know exactly where that bolt went...
grumble, grumble "plink".... yep there it is again....
grumble, grumble "plink".... ready to try it my way yet?
grumble, grumble "plink", grumble, grumble "plink", grumble, grumble "got it"
now you know why I say it's the family curse..... if it ain't worth doing it the hard way......
oh yeah, you could definately see that the bolts were discolored. half good / half stressed and corroded on the same bolt
Checked mine when kiawrench had his break last year or so. Nice to live where corrosion isn't as much of an issue! ;D
H2O
Which of these are the bolts that need to be replaced (using the bolt numbers), and what kinds of bolts are acceptable to use?
UPDATE: The diagram has been updated to highlight in red the bolts that need to be replaced (thanks H20)
(http://www.crazyasafox.com/braketensionbolts.jpg)
Vince
#s 29 & 34 are the critical bolts. Especially #34 - it's difficult to get to but necessary to check. If it breaks, the rod drops & will pogo your bike & likely cause a crash.
Any new bolt with a nylon lock nut should work, but look for the highest grade rating you can find. You can also order the parts from Yamaha just to make sure you've got some that will last for another 15 years. Always nice to use the right parts in such safety critical situations.
H2O
Thanks H20, those were the ones I thought you guys were referring to. I'll probably order mine from Yamaha (as long as they're not gouging)
I'm going to update that picture to reflect the correct bolts.
Vince
Does the bolt not have a shoulder on it? Something like an 8mm OD shank with a 6mm thread? Surely you can only use the correct bolt?
Quote from: simcha on August 07, 2006, 05:01:38 PM
Does the bolt not have a shoulder on it? Something like an 8mm OD shank with a 6mm thread? Surely you can only use the correct bolt?
I agree. I went OEM... I think they "gouged" me for $3 ea. at the most... better than gouging the pavement >:(
wont be on mine this year do to carbs needing rebuilt, but while it is down and not running I am going to make this the very first thing to do before anything. The picture sure helps. My wife wont let me ride it either till I get it done.....you would think she would want the insurance money ;D
ok guys,, read it ,live learn it ,love it!!
i have my bike down for major service, checked those bolts i put in after lesson at the dragon,, i used stainless bolts to lock the bar on my current vision, ,cross drilled and safety wired. the bolts are great, but my safety wire needs some help, so i bought a set of wire spinners from jc whitney. am thinking of race wiring the entire bike when i rip it down for frame up.
The biggest issue affecting these bolts and it is true of all bikes that use this design is the overtorqueing that happens when the rear wheel is changed. Everyone just gets carried away on this little guy and often times breaks them off in installation, which is very fortunate since if they go down the road overtorqued and stressed (like some people you meet on the road), it is just a matter of time before they release. It is a great idea to inspect this bolt especially the rear one on the brake drum since the forward one is rarely taken off in a wheel installation and thus usually saved from the mechanic who thinks "tighter is righter."
Good advice to bring this topic up and post a warning for all motorcycles,
Louie
OK...so I take those numbers Hfarley posted (attached to #29 and #34 bolts) and bring them to my local Yamaha Dealer and they will get me those bolts?? Since getting home from the Dragon, I'm on a roll now making time at night in the workshop with the War Mare and want to get this important stuff done.
I hardly use the rear brake over 20mph. Meaning I use it just before I stop. My fronts are quite strong. Not like the new bikes of today. But my special pads helped much. I looked...good. May change them on a rainy day. I have spares that are hardly worn. P.S. I know in an emergency the rear brake should be used also... But using the front as the primary(first reaction) avoids 99% of skids.
Thanks for posting this - it made me nervous enough to order both bolts yesterday for both of my Vs. It's worth the $3 each just for the peace of mind.
Dan
Maybe I got hosed... $9.00... from the dealer for both bolts, washers & nuts.
Cheap insurance ...... I was surprised to find to fork pinch bolts are discontinued...(mine look real crummy) Does anyone know what grade they are? I don't know what the markings mean... :-\
Dumb G..
The missing diagram:
(http://ridersofvision.net/images/brake-bar5.jpg)
Make no mistake, the most often reason for these failing is because the person that
worked on the bike has absolutely no idea what 14ftlbs of torque is, ( if they even looked in the manual)
once they've been overtightened, the damage is done.
Don't let monkees ruin your day or worse.