Riders Of Vision

Hi, I'm a new 550 owner - '82 with unknown mileage (speedo is broken at 6827 miles). Valve line sounds very good. Bike idles o.k., sometimes it's a little low and will stall, other times it's idling around 1200 RPM. I can live with that. My issue is rolling on the throttle at around 45 to 50 MPH  or attempting to add gas to go up a grade, the bike acts like it swallowed it's tongue. Can't tell if it's getting too much fuel or not enough. Any ideas?

add more choices to your poll?

first off, welcome to the site.

second off, that's quite the loaded question....  :o

you need to give more information... 


updated airbox/carbs? have you dipped carbs? have the pilot screw setting caps been pulled, are vac lines good, what jets do you have in the carb tops, are they sync'd? how's the YICS?, how's the manifold boot's

Well- I've owned the bike for about 4 days now....so, I have no idea about most of what you've asked. Here is what I do know. Got the bike from a guy who used to race Honda Hawks years ago...seems to know what he's doing -- his son is an Engineer for Yoshamura Exhaust. Carbs were cleaned and set according to a Haynes manual. I think the floats are a little off since the overflow drips if the bike is on the side stand. Has a new in-line fuel filter. Tank does have some rust, planning to pull the petcock this weekend and check for clogging; clean / de-rust and Kreem the tank while I have it off. I'll check the boots and vacuum lines at that time. Not sure how to check from the airbox upgrade -- will check other threads for advise unless you can point me to a site/ thread that can assist me. Can you advise as to what I should be checking for concerning the YICS? Any and all advise is appreciated.


Jeff

More info -- the bike runs exceptionally well as long as you don't jump on the throttle or even attempt a soft roll-on at highway speeds or trying to climb a grade. Nice easy riding, much the way a "new" rider would ride and the bike is pure joy! Ear to ear smile going down the road. Engine is very smooth -- quite and vibration free....until :(

Here goes my best Lucky impression, your carbs sound like they are still dirty. I had the same problem just about two months ago. The bottom jet in your carburators are dirty or clogged.

http://ridersofvision.net/rovforum/index.php?topic=4654.msg38279#msg38279

Follow the above thread. If you fail in this mission we will still be here for help!


http://ridersofvision.net/forum/index.php?topic=4654.0 - link fixed.

Quote from: roadstar on August 02, 2006, 01:09:43 PM
Bike idles o.k., sometimes it's a little low and will stall, other times it's idling around 1200 RPM.

you should also check the YICS box because it's easy to do. A leaky YICS box can cause erratic idle and other running issues.

You can pull it (that chrome triangle thingy on the right side of carbs) and cap off the lines going to the cylinders. See if it runs differently....
You can test the YCIS by blowing into the hoses to see if there are interior or exterior leaks... there was a good post on this recently (search water test)

If you don't have the YICS box.... then you go onto the next easiest / cheapest thing to eliminate...

The carb/airbox update consists of a vacuum activated flapper door at the back side of the airbox.

Thanks guys - I appreciate the advise! Your comments about dirty carbs triggered a comment by the previous owner, in that he added the in-line filter just days before....maybe a little too late , eh? Yes the YICS is in place, I'll pull it as well and give it a once over as per your guidance. I'm quickly developing a real affection for this bike -- it will be fun fixing the things that need fixing. Someone rattle-can painted the tank, I'll probably give it a new paint job this winter. After I get the carb issue resolved, maybe someone can educate me on converting to dual disc up front. I'm also noting that just like my '73 CB750K3, certain parts are just plain out of production and it's hunt and search.

By the way - without a question, this is the finish bike/model specific site I have ever seen. Thanks for making me feel welcome!

Jeff

let me re-write that last line...."finest" not "finish"....mind working way faster than my fingers as I try to do this between events here at work!

Jeff

any junk in the gas filter? as far as kreem goes.... the "recommended" method here is Por-15. That's a whole bunch of "fun" in a $35 kit  :D

another thing is... there's a couple of members in your neck of the woods.  All ya gotta do is ask... and usually a fully equipped ROVer is ready to be dispatched  ;)

Quote from: roadstar on August 02, 2006, 03:49:12 PM
Your comments about dirty carbs triggered a comment by the previous owner, in that he added the in-line filter just days before....maybe a little too late , eh?
Jeff

....like shutting the gate AFTER the horse has bolted.... :o ::) ;D :D ;)

Welcome to your new extended family....We are all here to help each other to get the very best out of our Vision's....and that includes FUN.... ;D ;D ;D :D :D ;) They are a great bike to ride and a real head turner....Get used to people asking...."Whats that your riding"???? or "A Vision....never heard of it" or "its made by...Yamaha???" and a load more.... ;D ;D ;D :D :D ;).. 8) We all love our "V"s....but they can be a little bit... :o  ???

"I think the floats are a little off since the overflow drips if the bike is on the side stand. Has a new in-line fuel filter. Tank does have some rust, planning to pull the petcock this weekend and check for clogging"

I would recommend you start with pulling the gas tank and carb's and giving them a complete cleanout....these carbs demand  cleanliness... ::). Install using new gas line AND a new gas filter....Then...... :P

If you want to check the YICS, click this link:

http://www.xz550.com/YICS.html (http://www.xz550.com/YICS.html)

This is a link to Lucky's Site. He has a lot of usefull information here. The above link explains the water test and tells you how to diagnose an internal leak or an external leak. Also, he has info on tank repair and carb repair. It is definitely a site you want to bookmark!

Welcome to ROV,

   ~Sable

I think your biggest thing is to sync the carbs. Do not use Kreem, it breaks down when using gas additives. Check for Vacuum leaks. If you set the carbs according to the Haynes Manual, you might be missing a step as the air/fuel mixture is covered with a plug as the factory didn't want you messing with it.

Well, it looks like the guys have my usual spiel covered, lol, so i'll go on to other things...
I hereby claim Roadstar as a candidate for SEROV (SouthEast ROV) before NEROV can, although their probably closer  :D

--Lucky

http://ridersofvision.net/forum/index.php?topic=4941.0
In that thread you will find how to check the YICS with water to check for leaks.

Hope you get it running well.

My 2 cents, mine was running the same after dipping the carbs three times and replacing the stator.  I got a different TCI and riched up the fuel mix and now it rides great.  I used to have to ride the clutch at stop lights to get going and be careful with twisting on the throttle hard, not any more!

Cleaning the carbs, working TCI (thanks Tdub) and sync'n was the main issues.  I have been commuting 30 miles/day, no probs.

Matt

Quote from: roadstar on August 02, 2006, 02:32:49 PM
I think the floats are a little off since the overflow drips if the bike is on the side stand.

Jeff

I'm betting your petcock is bad. That's why your carbs leak. Mine does the same thing. You'll know if this is the problem when you unplug your gas hoses from the petcock. With the petcock in the on or reserve positions gas is not supposed to flow from the tank. If it does your petcock is faulty.

I doubt that has anything to do with how your bike runs but it will cause a gas leak from the carb overflow.

Leak could be any of several things.  Most have been covered - float level too high, bad petcock & Lucky has mentioned that there is an overflow tube in the float bowl that may have been installed too low by Mikuni.  This would have the same effect as a high float setting but could be a real bear to figure out if you had never heard of it before.

H₂O

Hi all and thank you each for your support and willingness to help. Since I am so very new to ROV, LUCKY, what is the difference between ROV-North and ROV-South?

Latest news: rode the V in this morning to work. Here is what it is doing and what I have noted:
1. Gas tank has been repaired in lowest point on both sides.
2. 0 to 4000 rpm's - runs well with choke off if you are not aggressive with the throttle.
3. 4000 to 5200 rpm's - runs well at all throttle settings.
4. able 5200 rpms' starts to run rough.
5. at full operating temp. it idles at 2700 rpms with choke off / 3200 with choke on. (I'll play with the cable a little over lunch and see what I get on the way home tonight.)

rocketboy

Any thoughts?!?!?

Any one have a PDF or copy of the owners manual they could send to me? I tried to get the seat to release (looks like it works just like the FZ1 I just sold) turn one way to release the helmet lock, turn the other to release the seat -- but the seat doesn't release. I need to see how it is hooked underneath to see what I need to do. I really don't want to harm the seat -- it's very good original.

the hook for the seat is by the handle to the right of the lock

I have all the manuals, diagrams, advertisements, etc, etc, on cd that i sell (pays for the bike stuff) email me if your interested.

--Lucky

Diiference between the NEROV and the SEROV?? Well... we are all a bit crazy at times but some of us are crazier than the others.  ;) :P(I'll let you figure out whose crazier LOL!) ;D

Seriously though, welcome to the site! Lots and lots of info here and a bunch of really great people. You will get all kinds of suggestions for any vision issues that you could come across. Welcome and good luck with your ride!
-Heather

Well Heather - I guess I'll have to come and hang with both North and South and see just who is truly crazier!! :) I've found that most motorcycle people are a whole lot more fun to be around than most other folks. I guess that's why I have so many different bikes -- there's always someone, riding something, to go play with. I've had more fun on this website in the six days that I've owned this ride than any bike/club/website that I've been associated with before. Thanks for taking the time to welcome me to the club! I look forward to meeting everyone in the day to come.

Time for me to go and mount the trusty V and head for home -- ride safe everyone! See ya all later tonight!

Jeff

Quote from: haunter on August 03, 2006, 11:34:11 AM
the hook for the seat is by the handle to the right of the lock

yup, I went through that too. I thought it would just pop open when I turned the key. You have to turn the key and pull on the little handle at the same time.

It was driving me insane! I'll owned many motorcycles and was beginning to wonder if I suddenly had become mechanically inept!

Thanks for the help -- I got it open only to find "New" wires and flat blade fuses had been added -- I wonder what surprises that will lead to?

Roadstar

I'm new to this "Vision" too, bought an 82 for my girlfriend as a learner. Bike was a none runner for the right price, and unique too.
Anyway I have rebuilt the carbs, Keyster kits, all the passages are clear to the best of my knowledge and the float heights are the same (I don't have a Haynes manual, a factory one instead), I know they need to be synced, but what should I start with on the air/idle screws, guessed at 1 1/2 turns. The only way it idles (if thats what I can call it), is with the idle stop turned all the way in, and then it bogs terrible until you manage to get it to rev up.
Any help would be appreciated  THANKS.

I think it depends on what air pilot jets are in the top of the carb throats. I have 130 front, 135 rear with the air box mod.

some say mixture screws 2.5 front / 4.5 rear , mine is more like 5.25 front / 2 rear... go figure  ???


try both 2.5 - 3 turns out from lightly seated... sync the carbs......
then try adjusting them halfway between rich and lean. screw the front in until it starts to run rough, turn out until it runs rough (count the turns be tween the two extremes) put it halfway, maybe out an 1/8.

repeat for the rear.... check the sync.... repeat as necessary.

this is assuming that all the other bits and parts are up to snuff... vac lines, YICS, charging system... etc.