Look what Dennis Kirk's gettin' in soon:
http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=282760&store=Main&catId=418&productId=p282760&leafCatId=41804&mmyId= (http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=282760&store=Main&catId=418&productId=p282760&leafCatId=41804&mmyId=)
Bit pricey but no mercury or storage concerns, easier to bring with on gatherings for on the fly adjustments, etc. :) Would we need the optional 6mm adapter?
On the topic of tools, what size flywheel puller do we need for when it needs to be done? Notice I said when and not if... ;)
Flywheel pullers are multi-fit tools. You can find a good one at Sears and a cheapie (but functional one) at Harbor Freight. I opted for the Harbor Freight version, as I prefer not to hammer on many of the more expensive tools. Especially with the pounding required to remove the V's flywheel. However, I got it before I bought my compressor. With a pneumatic impact wrench, I'm wishing I'd bought the Craftsman version.
$95 is a lot of money for a carb synch tool. Get some tubing & fill it with ATF. Attach it to a yardstick & hang it next to the bike. Attach each end to a vacuum port on each intake boot & voila! A manometer that costs under $10 and is very accurate. There's a diagram on Lucky's site - look in the Vision Artwork section. I've been using this type for years & it works great. It can be transported if you plug the ends.
H2O
I wonder if the new fluid would work in my old motion pro manometer..? i'd have to find a place to dispose of it properly, or flush it....
that was a JOKE! (H2O just stroked out)
Resurrecting an thread, do we need 5mm or 6mm tubing to make one, or does it matter? I don't know the mm size of the points they're attaching to *yet*. Also where would I get the #60 jets for the end, the dealership? Those're carb jets?
3/16 id vinyl tubing at home depot.....
I mounted the yard stick on a 6 foot 1x3 up about 12-18" from the bottom. Then took a sports drink bottle cap and screwed it to the 1x3 so the tubing makes a nice round tight turn on the bottom.
the 1x3x6 fits nicely in an empty jack stand so you can put it near your bike and not fiddlefuk with the manometer when syncing
get about 20 feet of tubing so you can run it around the bottle cap at the bottom and to the top of the 1x3 (this gives you extra room in case it's really unbalanced) and still have plenty to play with. use zip ties to keep the tube tight to the stick....
you don't need a whole lot of fluid... I think ATF is too thin so I used 15w fork oil... only 18-20" on each leg... it takes awhile to pour it in and let it settle out and balance itself...
don't know about the jets
oh, yeah, make sure the tubes are equal length of course
oh, yeah 1x2 not 3
I used extra long tubing - like 25 feet. I hang it from the garage door track & it sits right in front of my face while I'm fiddling with the synch rod. How Convienent! :D
H2O
The pic looked like a 12-inch ruler so that's what I got, need a yard stick? Think I can get one at Home Depot when I get the tubing. The auto shops didn't have any.
Dealership said I'd need to bring in the original jets for comparison to get 'em there, don't care to pull about the carbs right now just for that so will go without for the time being. Got some ATF, we'll see if it should be oil on this one.
The yardstick gives you more volume to work with. A ruler may work, though. ATF is easier to see in the tubing because of its color. If the carbs are way out of synch & you are late in disconnecting the tubes, shutting off the engine or evening out the vacuum, it won't harm the engine - but you won't need to worry about mosquitos for a while. :D
The diagram came from the BMW Airheads forum. There's an entire article there about the $4 manometer. Figure credit belongs where it's due!
H2O
i used the yardstick type for a while, but with the number of older bikes / riders that are part of the local community(we all seem to ride the same places and in groups at that) , i had to find a more mobile system. the twin bottle method that was posted online before is perfect for my needs .
i took two clear snapple bottles, two large rubber stoppers and 20 ft of tubing and made one of my own. after building it and checking it for accuracy against a real meter, it isnt too bad- provided you are able to keep the bottles upright and level to start with. that is where a little thinking came into play.
i made a small carrier for the two bottles, holding them tightly to each other, and then attached a small leveling vial to the top runner- each corner has a 3 inch screw as a "leg" and when ready to use, i just sit it on the floor near the bike and level the set up first, the attach it to the bike. our little group of riders are more in sync now than ever,,( lol lil pun )
surprising thing is - local bike shop doesnt even offer carb sync - no one there is even trained to do it anymore. oh, this set up also works well for hot rods with dual carbs, and the one car in the area with 4 2bbl carbs has used it too, he matched 1/2 then 2/3 the 3/4 then cross checked 1/4 to double check. car runs better than before and very very smooth idle . i use it on volkswagon air cooled engines too, and as of yet, have not found any engine with multiple carbs it doesnt work on, with a bit of thinkng first .
The jets are my trick: (i haven't tried this but it seems reasonable)
if you insert one in each end far enough so that you can still plug the hoses into the intake fittings, it should smooth out the pulses
use # 60 pilot jets or smaller.
--Lucky
Thanks, I'll see about pesterin' 'em again. I got a 20 foot roll of 3/16 i.d., and a metal yardstick. For plugs I got a 3/16 to 1/4 adapter and a 1/4 flare. Flare wound up being too small but the adapter did screw into the bottom of a plastic funnel I have so that helped filling. Managed to dump some on the garage floor trying to hold it out and up enough for it all to flow down without pooling in a dip. I managed to over-adjust the idle screw and the first round of ATF went through to smoke out. After some fixin' the second bunch worked and got it fairly close. I'm pretty sure my mix is off though so need to see about how to adjust that and sync. I know there's a screw on each but have to read on how to tell which is what and how much to adjust. I also need to re-check the sync as-is since after the goof I had to put it on prime to get enough fuel going to start it and forgot to put it back to On.
The bottle one sounds interesting, with potentially a better reserve if it's jacked.
umm... instead of trying to pour the atf into the tubing, why don't you just stick one end in the bottle & suck the atf in with the other end?...
Quote from: Lucky on September 24, 2007, 06:55:21 PM
umm... instead of trying to pour the atf into the tubing, why don't you just stick one end in the bottle & suck the atf in with the other end?...
hmmm.... the easy way eh?
My apologies NV, i forgot you were here! ;) ::)
Probably because I likely have a similar mindset to N_V from the sounds of it. ;) I did wind up using the siphon method to even it out in the tube.
Then cap the ends and swing it like a lasso, keeps the oil all centered in the bottom of the V shaped tube
I just built mine. Got the last wooden yardstick at home depot assempled with zip ties and I'm using a pair of small (otherwise useless) vise grips to keep the fluid in.
On the topic of carbs, where are the mixture screws on the 82 carbs?
Looking in from the petcock they're on the rear underside of the carbs over each cylinder. The front one should be in the neighborhood of the sync rod locknut. The other one is slightly hidden but accessible with a long thin screwdriver (doesn't have to be overly long but wouldn't necessarily hurt). I'll see if I can't toss up a pic in a few of 'em.
Here's the screw pics:
Front:
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f280/Aelwulf1/1982%20Yamaha%20Vision%20550/FrontMixtureScrew.jpg)
Rear:
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f280/Aelwulf1/1982%20Yamaha%20Vision%20550/RearMixtureScrew.jpg)
When I was rebuilding carbs I threw in a synqroniser much like luckys , except it was on a 15 inch of piece of aliminum 1 X 1/6 I put an aqurium valve in the line to dampen to occilations caused by the pressure surges in the intake tract. You just turn the valve in until the needle or atf stoppes bouncing.
I have a four gang manifold which consists of four vacuume gages with dampening valves , I like this type better that the mercury type because with the mercury type if you rev the engine to clear it out , you will suck the mercury out of the tube and through the engine and then in to your lungs . Besides I don't like handling the stuff
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2004169/p-2004169/N-111+10211+600014252/c-10111
This is what you and I are talking about. Also helpful:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2004173/p-2004173/N-111+10211+600014252/c-10111
I've used both, albeit I got mine from Dennis-Kirk a while ago. Gauges are safer, and more durable. I need to get another of the latter, mine got stolen off of my Bandit when I stopped for the night in KS on the way back to CO 2 years ago.
Yep thats it, I paid 36. for mine I have a home made hang tank it consists of a snow blower gas tank mount on a revolving book rack . Its assembled from junk that was free, best kind!
Yes, and the "Bouncing Needles" is caused by the little "check" valve on the line being open just a little too much. You need to tighten/close the valve until the needle smooths out. Allow less air thru the valve and slow the reaction of the needle. It still draws the vacuum, but not as sporadic.
Wherever and however these are aquired, they are universal. Of course, YMMV, and this wouldn't be aimed at the CBMMA. I've got a tool that will fit right into that category, with my Bowl Float Level Gauge. It's a piece of tubing that fits on the bowl drain, as is marked over a 10mm span near the opposite end, like a vernier flask(?). You make it a tool by putting calibration marks on with a pinpoint Sharpee, or some such. Put it on over the drain, and open the bowl drain screw, and hold the top mark at the reference point in your manual. Read it back down counting off your marks to see how many MM the fuel is below that reference point...or if it is over. :o Use that to set the floats.
I made this tool when I was TShooting carburetion on a 1993 XV750 for a friend. We'd done rejetting, idle mixture and float adjustment, but until I actually saw what was happening in the bowls, and made the necessary adjust to the floats, did the bike finally stabilize.
Cost of tool: I dunno, how much of any size tubing in a 6-8 inch length cost?
This "gauge" is used with the bike running, and can gauge the fuel level at any RPM. Suspect fuel starvation? Easy way to find out. And it is done without removing the carbs or anything else.
There are directions for making the float bowl level 'tool' in the Haynes manual. Cost would be under a buck.
H2O
That would be obvious. ;D
Didn't have a Haynes with me at the time...had the FSM.