I had an '82 vision in my senior year of high school and owned it for about 6 years before I sold it and moved on to bigger, better and faster toys. 20 years, a wife, a house, 3 kids and 2 dogs later, and I find myself looking to recapture my youth, starting with an '83 Vision off of ebay. The machine is in fantastic shape cosmetically, but isn't running. The previous owner bought it from the original owner about 4 years ago and intended to go through it, but never did. Or he did, in so much as he took the carb apart and lost a few parts before losing interest. Anyway, that's where I'm starting. I received the carbs all apart in a box. I think all that I'm missing is one of the main jets and the fuel sensor that should fit inside the tank, but I suspect once I get into it more, I'll have a lot of questions.
Can anyone tell me where where I'd find jets for an '83? Is it worth buying the Keyster Carb kit from ebay? Is it realistic to try and find a fuel sensor for a bike that was made only one year?
Thanks for any advice.
Hey windjammer and congrats on getting your childhood dream back.
And...welcome to ROV
There will be lots of posts with answers for you but search around and you will find lots of the stuff you need.
David
Welcome aboard !! Are you referring to the fuel gage sensor in the gas tank?
The price of Keysters carb kits has gone through the roof, but I believe they come with jets.
Someone on this forum may have some jets (maybe me).
Parts for '83 carbs are are as abundant as hens teeth. But you could install a set of '82 carbs instead. There's nothing wrong with the '82's , that carefull syncing and adjustment wont cure. There all over the place and cheap.
Thanks. I read through quite a few threads here and it seems like a really great group. I'm looking forward to participating. I'm documenting the whole project with pictures, I'll post a few as I get further into it.
I like the color scheme on your bike! I resurrected an '88 Honda NX650 last year and had it painted in school bus yellow - it looks great. That bike was only made in 88 and 89. Guess I'm a glutton for punishment when it comes to rebuilding odd bikes. Maybe I should choose a mid-nineties CBR600 next time :) Nah, what fun would that be?...
-matt
Thanks, Rick. I considered picking up a set of carbs on ebay from an '82 and I may still do that. I remember back to my old 82 and the 4000 rpm stumble. It seems to me that I read somewhere that the 83 carb added some sort of vacuum that fixed this. That stumble was really my only complaint of the 82. Wish I'd never sold it now.
Yep, you're right on on the gauge sensor. I'm guessing one of those is probably worth it's weight in gold right now.
Anyway, the carb looks really pretty clean and almost complete, so I'm hoping that with a little guidance from some of the gurus here that I might have a real shot of getting it working. I also have the factory service manual and it looks like that details most of the disassembly & reassembly really well. After reading it a couple hundred times, I might even figure it out ;-)
Are the jets the same between the 82's and 83's?
-matt
Quote from: Rick G on May 03, 2008, 11:09:19 PM
Welcome aboard !! Are you referring to the fuel gage sensor in the gas tank?
The price of Keysters carb kits has gone through the roof, but I believe they come with jets.
Someone on this forum may have some jets (maybe me).
Parts for '83 carbs are are as abundant as hens teeth. But you could install a set of '82 carbs instead. There's noting wrong with the '82's that carefull syncing and adjustment wont cure. There all over the place and cheap.
The fuel sender that mounts in the tank is difficult to find - but not impossible. Keep an eye on eBay. I think I may have a non-functioning one lying around as well. Need to go through the parts and make an inventory. I'll let you know if I have it if you're interested in one that may need a new resistor / diode or whatever is blown on it.
The jets are the same type on both years but the sizes are different.
Welcome to the group & good luck restoring that 83!
H2O
Wow! That'd be great. I'm a database programmer by trade, but I have buddies that are electronic engineers and I bet they could help me figure out how to fix the sensor you have. Let me know if you locate it. Before I dove in, I laid out all of the carb parts on the counter and took a pictures of them. I may have to post a few stupid "um, what's this thingy" questions.
I looked at the one jet that I do have and it was stamped with 180. Does that sound about right for the 83?
Quote from: h2olawyer on May 03, 2008, 11:25:34 PM
The fuel sender that mounts in the tank is difficult to find - but not impossible. Keep an eye on eBay. I think I may have a non-functioning one lying around as well. Need to go through the parts and make an inventory. I'll let you know if I have it if you're interested in one that may need a new resistor / diode or whatever is blown on it.
The jets are the same type on both years but the sizes are different.
Welcome to the group & good luck restoring that 83!
H2O
I have the 83 jet you need. soon as you figure out which one. make sure the 'missing' one isn't still in there.
for gods sake be careful with 2 parts of that 83 carb:
1) don't break a float or float post (part that the float pivot pin goes thru)
2) the control valve on top of the rear accelerator pump. it's a multipart valve with a diaphram. if you try to unscrew the bolt holding the diaphram together it'll probably break. chances are it's fine anyway, leave it alone.
3) don't bother taking the dual diaphram apart on the back of the petcock (flat plate with 6 screws and 2 round castings on it) only 2 or 3 of us have the custom homemade tools to recreate that diaphram (& #2 above) & the results are hit or miss.
all these parts are UNOBTANIUM & your very possably screwed without them.
scared yet? good, be scared, but also, don't worry, we won't let an 83 die for some small part...
--Lucky
i'd take a shot at rewinding the sender, it's just a simple rheostat wire...
welcome to the board. by any chance is this the 83 you just got? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1123&viewitem=&item=110244113918 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1123&viewitem=&item=110244113918)
Sheesh! Gave me goosebumps!! :) Yah, I'm gonna go ahead and post a couple of pictures. The floats both looked good and seem to function well, so I won't touch. The factory manual has a ten page section on what to take apart and check, but I'd much rather take the advice of someone who's done it, and if you say don't touch this or that, consider it done.
I'm in the processor of treating the tank right now. Got to get rid of the failing "Kreem" job first and then I'm going to try the Caswell epoxy treatment. BTW, 5 gallons of acetone is not cheap these days!
Thanks very much for your advice!
Here's my three kids on the bike when I got it home last weekend.
(http://applebuttersoftware.com/VisionPics/2008-04-28%20051.jpg)
And here's the carb bits and pieces.
(http://applebuttersoftware.com/VisionPics/2008-05-02%20011.jpg)
So if you look in the lower left hand corner of the picture, I'm missing one of the jets. Dumb question, but the jet isn't just the head of that long piece, right? It is over 2 inches long, correct?
Thanks.
Quote from: Lucky on May 03, 2008, 11:53:30 PM
I have the 83 jet you need. soon as you figure out which one. make sure the 'missing' one isn't still in there.
for gods sake be careful with 2 parts of that 83 carb:
1) don't break a float or float post (part that the float pivot pin goes thru)
2) the control valve on top of the rear accelerator pump. it's a multipart valve with a diaphram. if you try to unscrew the bolt holding the diaphram together it'll probably break. chances are it's fine anyway, leave it alone.
3) don't bother taking the dual diaphram apart on the back of the petcock (flat plate with 6 screws and 2 round castings on it) only 2 or 3 of us have the custom homemade tools to recreate that diaphram (& #2 above) & the results are hit or miss.
all these parts are UNOBTANIUM & your very possably screwed without them.
scared yet? good, be scared, but also, don't worry, we won't let an 83 die for some small part...
--Lucky
Yessir, that's the one. It was within a few hours driving distance from me and I wasn't going to let it get away.
-matt
Quote from: ps2 on May 04, 2008, 12:05:25 AM
welcome to the board. by any chance is this the 83 you just got? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1123&viewitem=&item=110244113918 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1123&viewitem=&item=110244113918)
Check the diagram in your manual. The jets are small brass parts, maybe 1/4 inch long, tops. The ones in the carb tops are 140s (on 83s). There are two more jets - inside the carb bodies, where those brass plug bolts fit. Yhe other two are the small tube like ones in the lower left of your photo.
I think I found a way to fix the delicate posts, so if the worst should happen, it can be fixed. If this method doesn't hold, I have a couple more ideas that will definitely work - just require more work than I wanted to attempt right now.
H2O
The brass tube that's about 1.5 inches long , that you have only one of ,is the emulsion tube . You will need two of those, maybe Lucky has one .
Fine family you have there!
Gotcha. Thanks, H2O. I'll check them tomorrow. I'm definitely missing one of the internal jets then - not sure about the main jets.
-m@
Quote from: h2olawyer on May 04, 2008, 12:39:31 AM
Check the diagram in your manual. The jets are small brass parts, maybe 1/4 inch long, tops. The ones in the carb tops are 140s (on 83s). There are two more jets - inside the carb bodies, where those brass plug bolts fit. Yhe other two are the small tube like ones in the lower left of your photo.
I think I found a way to fix the delicate posts, so if the worst should happen, it can be fixed. If this method doesn't hold, I have a couple more ideas that will definitely work - just require more work than I wanted to attempt right now.
H2O
:) Hi and welcome to you and your fine looking Vision to the ROV family... 8)
It is always handy to know, as you don't mention it in your profile, were you are located. You may have one of us just around the corner that can help you!!
Lucky is our carb guru...it may pay you to fire off your carbs to him for a rebuild ;) Lucky also has a CD/DVD for sale. It consists of workshop and parts manual's, helpful advice, hint's, etc that will make life easier for you
and your Vision... 8)
Once again welcome, were ever you are...
8).......TIGER....... 8)
Quote from: Windjammer on May 03, 2008, 11:13:06 PM
Thanks. I read through quite a few threads here and it seems like a really great group. I'm looking forward to participating. I'm documenting the whole project with pictures, I'll post a few as I get further into it.
I like the color scheme on your bike! I resurrected an '88 Honda NX650 last year and had it painted in school bus yellow - it looks great. That bike was only made in 88 and 89. Guess I'm a glutton for punishment when it comes to rebuilding odd bikes. Maybe I should choose a mid-nineties CBR600 next time :) Nah, what fun would that be?...
-matt
heh heh...
If you are referring to the color scheme of the picture in my sig line, thats an old picture. I have the most updated ones of the **mostly** (is a Vision ever finished) finished project. Just below the picture is a link to my blog and lots of updated pics.
Looks like you got a great deal on your bike with lots of extra parts. You have a great bike and with a little help from the guys here, you'll be riding it in no time.
Pay particular attention though to Luckys post (its stickied at the top) about replacing the brake bar bolt. Very important.
Also, you have the shop manual, but if none of the guys above my post mentioned it, get in touch with lucky Click on his name in one of his posts) and order one of his DVD's. It had a boatload of information to help you along as you work on your bike. (I used mine on an old laprop in my shop to refer to while I was restoring my bike)
Good luck to you!
David
here's an '83 emulsion tube:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-XZ550RK-1983-CARBURETOR-EMULSION-TUBE-NOS-OEM_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247QQcategoryZ35581QQihZ024QQitemZ370033099704QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V
looks like your rear drain line nipple is broken off, the front one is there. not a big deal to fix the rear one.
do you have the other rubber airbox/carb top boot?
how about the airbox itself...
as long as the carbs have the floats, and you get an emulsion tube, it looks like you'll be OK.
hold onto those extra 83 headpipes.... and hope that you won't need the spare stator soon ;)
welcome aboard, let the games begin
Wow!! You guys are incredible! Thanks very much for the advice & encouragement. I'll definitely be ordering Lucky's resource material. Someone asked where I was located. I live on the MN side of the river (the good side :) , near La Crosse, WI.
Yep, I looked in the manual and found that as the emulsion tube. I took a longer look at the carbs this morning and found a number of other things missing. I posted a picture below and numbered the bits in question. (Sorry for so many questions in one post.)
1. Drain Screw (missing both sides)
2. Main jet (missing for sure on the left side, but the right side is buggered and I haven't been able to get it out)
Side note: Am I reading it right that this jet has a "plug" screw? So the jet goes in first, followed by the plug?
3. Same as 1 (Drain screw missing)
4. (and 5) Is this where the Pilot Jets go? (the manual's a little hard to read on this)
6. Are these the pilot jets? (if so, then it looks like I'm missing their plugs)
7. Emulsion Tube (I'll order the replacement on ebay. Thanks!)
8. Looks like these are plugs for the drain screw and go into hole #3. Is that right?
9. Although they're pretty buggered up and I should probably locate replacements, these seem to be plugs for the pilot jets (holes 4 & 5). Is that right?
(http://applebuttersoftware.com/VisionPics/Carb%20Parts%201.jpg)
Congratulations and good to have you here! FYI, I am the second owner of an '83 with about 88K miles on it. Bought the bike in 84'.
I noticed that your bike has 24K miles on it. You need to determine whether or not the starter clutch has ever been reattached. EVERY V left the factory with a defectively installed starter clutch. Beginning at around 17K, a slight knocking sound may be noticed while the bike is idling. It will get louder and louder as the miles add up. Usually, by around 20k it is very pronounced. By 27k it sounds as if a rod is fixin'(Texas word) to let go any second. By 30k(if you get that far) the bike won't crankover.
What is happening is that due to the timing of the power impulses of our high compression V twin engine while idling, the starter clutch housing gradually works loose on its' mounting on the flywheel and moves around. The more it moves, the looser it gets. Until finally, the housing cracks and eventually, in the worse case scenario, is destroyed and the flywheel mounting threads get so wallowed out that the flywheel must be replaced.. The knocking sound that is heard is the housing moving against its' three attachment bolts.
The sure fire diagnosis is: The sound disappears above 2500 rpm.
Usually, if repaired by about 25 to 27k miles, the housing and the flywheel threads are salvageable and the repair is cheap. Beyond that, start bringing $.
Based on what I've seen in junk yards, the vast majority of the Vs there all showed less than 30k miles, many with less than 17k. I believe that many Vs were abandoned or junked when their loose starter clutches were misdiagnosed by misinformed mechanics as being bad rod or main bearings. The cost of repair being seen as exceeding the value of the bike. This no doubt added to the bad reputations these bikes had "back in the day".
There is very good news. If repaired early enough, the cost is virtually 100% labour. And, if done right, the repair is permanent. I was blessed in that, with 27k miles on my bike, my local Yamadealers' excellent repair staff immediately recognized the problem for what it was and repaired it accordingly. The starter clutch has been trouble free since then.
1 & 3 (larger) main jets go in here, than #8 plugs them
2 (&1, on the left) are the drain screws, they can be a pain to seal...
4&5 the pilots 6, go in here, 9 seals them up
7, one is missing
you should have 4 identical jets (not pictured) but have different numbers. two go in 1 & 3, two go in the top of the carb (round part)
--Lucky
Dang, that's a ton of miles! Good to know that I might be able to get that many out of her. So how can I determine if the starter clutch
has been reattached? Just listen for the knocking at idle? I'll definitely pay attention to it. Thanks.
I always drooled over the 83 with the snazzy fairing when I had my '82. I showed somebody a pic of the "new" bike at work last week and they told me that it looked like something Captain America would've ridden. I was hoping for Hasselhoff, but hey, I can live with Captain America... :)
Quote from: QBS on May 04, 2008, 10:26:55 AM
Congratulations and good to have you here! FYI, I am the second owner of an '83 with about 88K miles on it. Bought the bike in 84'.
I noticed that your bike has 24K miles on it. You need to determine whether or not the starter clutch has ever been reattached. EVERY V left the factory with a defectively installed starter clutch. Beginning at around 17K, a slight knocking sound may be noticed while the bike is idling. It will get louder and louder as the miles add up. Usually, by around 20k it is very pronounced. By 27k it sounds as if a rod is fixin'(Texas word) to let go any second. By 30k(if you get that far) the bike won't crankover.
What is happening is that due to the timing of the power impulses of our high compression V twin engine while idling, the starter clutch housing gradually works loose on its' mounting on the flywheel and moves around. The more it moves, the looser it gets. Until finally, the housing cracks and eventually, in the worse case scenario, is destroyed and the flywheel mounting threads get so wallowed out that the flywheel must be replaced.. The knocking sound that is heard is the housing moving against its' three attachment bolts.
The sure fire diagnosis is: The sound disappears above 2500 rpm.
Usually, if repaired by about 25 to 27k miles, the housing and the flywheel threads are salvageable and the repair is cheap. Beyond that, start bringing $.
Based on what I've seen in junk yards, the vast majority of the Vs there all showed less than 30k miles, many with less than 17k. I believe that many Vs were abandoned or junked when their loose starter clutches were misdiagnosed by misinformed mechanics as being bad rod or main bearings. The cost of repair being seen as exceeding the value of the bike. This no doubt added to the bad reputations these bikes had "back in the day".
There is very good news. If repaired early enough, the cost is virtually 100% labour. And, if done right, the repair is permanent. I was blessed in that, with 27k miles on my bike, my local Yamadealers' excellent repair staff immediately recognized the problem for what it was and repaired it accordingly. The starter clutch has been trouble free since then.
Lucky, that helps immensely. Thanks!
I just checked and I DO have both of the upper jets in place. I took them out at and looked at them - they both read 140.
So now begins the search for the missing and/or munged parts. I already nabbed the Emulsion Tube from ebay.
Do you suppose I could replace the pilot plug screws with a similar screw from a hardware store or are they a special material? (their heads are hosed)
Did you say that the two missing jets should be 130s? I looked at the Keyster kit and it says it comes with a 130 and a 125. Are their kits spec'd differently? At $120 to do both carbs, it seems a little spendy...
Would you have any of these jets that you'd be willing to sell?
Thanks again,
-m@
Quote from: Lucky on May 04, 2008, 12:48:02 PM
1 & 3 (larger) main jets go in here, than #8 plugs them
2 (&1, on the left) are the drain screws, they can be a pain to seal...
4&5 the pilots 6, go in here, 9 seals them up
7, one is missing
you should have 4 identical jets (not pictured) but have different numbers. two go in 1 & 3, two go in the top of the carb (round part)
--Lucky
Regarding starter clutch repair status:
Contact previous owners if possible. Beyond that, get the bike running and see what is sounds like. If it sounds good, run it until it makes noise or the stator goes bad, which ever comes first.
If the stator fails first, when you remove the engine cover to replace it, inspect the starter clutch attachment bolts where they protrude through the flywheel. If they've been penned over (the factory method wasn't penning and the recommended repair method is), the reattachment has been done.
If it starts knocking before the stator fails and it passes the over 2500 rpm diagnosis test, you know that it hasn't been repaired. What could happen from there is that you go to all the trouble to open and close the engine cover only to have the stator fail shortly thereafter.
It could be that the reason your bike left the road in the first place was that the starter clutch was knocking and the then current owner didn't want to put $ into repairing what he/she diagnosed as a bearing problem. BTW, testing for stator failure is very easy and can be done without the bike running. You might have a bad stator now. If so, you can repair it and do the starter clutch inspection now, without having the bike running.
Sirius Consolidated (the Keyster kit supplier) occasionally puts the 83 carb kits on eBay in a special deal. I got the kits for both carbs & the fuel pump for something like $30. Look through the "buy it now" section & you may find them. I haven't looked for them since I got mine, but did notice them not too long ago.
H2O
Quote from: QBS on May 04, 2008, 10:26:55 AM
I noticed that your bike has 24K miles on it. You need to determine whether or not the starter clutch has ever been reattached. EVERY V left the factory with a defectively installed starter clutch.
Not necessarily true. Good thing to pay attention to, but I wouldn't pull the thing until you start hearing noise.
Brian
Quote from: Windjammer on May 04, 2008, 01:42:35 PM
Dang, that's a ton of miles! Good to know that I might be able to get that many out of her.
On the CROV ride, I just crossed 41,600 miles on my 83.
And if you need photos (I'll torture H20 with a photo of my carbs again :-) ) I have a bunch of a rebuild I did. Click on the photo.
(http://www.pbase.com/moffetb/image/94197697/medium.jpg) (http://www.pbase.com/moffetb/vision&page=all)
Brian
No torture anymore, Brian - The exterior of my carbs look like new! It's the insides that are the mess. But, they're entirely apart now & gradually getting cleaner. Should have dumped the rust dust into a bowl to get a photo of what came out. For ease, I just dumped the stuff directly into the trash.
I still need to de-dent, strip, line & repaint my 83 tank before I even think of installing the carbs. Going to be a while before that project is done. Would like to have it by the end of this month, but since the bike runs well as is, it isn't the end of the world. This is sure a difficult way to just get a fuel gauge on my V. :D ;D
H2O
You know, some people just open the tank and look. Personally, I rock it side to side and listen to how much sloshing happens...
Brian
The previous owner robbed the stator off of this bike to fix an '82 that he had, so he bought a new and improved stator for this one, but never got around to putting it in. Yes, another item that's in a box right now. I guess it'll be a perfect opportunity to check the starter clutch.
Um, I'm not quite clear on what you mean by "penned over". Can you explain?
Thanks.
-m@
Quote from: QBS on May 04, 2008, 03:54:32 PM
Regarding starter clutch repair status:
Contact previous owners if possible. Beyond that, get the bike running and see what is sounds like. If it sounds good, run it until it makes noise or the stator goes bad, which ever comes first.
If the stator fails first, when you remove the engine cover to replace it, inspect the starter clutch attachment bolts where they protrude through the flywheel. If they've been penned over (the factory method wasn't penning and the recommended repair method is), the reattachment has been done.
If it starts knocking before the stator fails and it passes the over 2500 rpm diagnosis test, you know that it hasn't been repaired. What could happen from there is that you go to all the trouble to open and close the engine cover only to have the stator fail shortly thereafter.
It could be that the reason your bike left the road in the first place was that the starter clutch was knocking and the then current owner didn't want to put $ into repairing what he/she diagnosed as a bearing problem. BTW, testing for stator failure is very easy and can be done without the bike running. You might have a bad stator now. If so, you can repair it and do the starter clutch inspection now, without having the bike running.
Cool! Thanks for the tip. I'll keep my eyes peeled for a deal on ebay.
I see the jets listed for about $10 on BikeBandit, so I might just go that route unless anyone can point me in a better direction.
Quote from: h2olawyer on May 04, 2008, 04:03:18 PM
Sirius Consolidated (the Keyster kit supplier) occasionally puts the 83 carb kits on eBay in a special deal. I got the kits for both carbs & the fuel pump for something like $30. Look through the "buy it now" section & you may find them. I haven't looked for them since I got mine, but did notice them not too long ago.
H2O
Awesome! Thanks, Brian. Those pics will be very handy reference for me.
Quote from: Brian Moffet on May 04, 2008, 04:23:21 PM
Quote from: Windjammer on May 04, 2008, 01:42:35 PM
Dang, that's a ton of miles! Good to know that I might be able to get that many out of her.
On the CROV ride, I just crossed 41,600 miles on my 83.
And if you need photos (I'll torture H20 with a photo of my carbs again :-) ) I have a bunch of a rebuild I did. Click on the photo.
(http://www.pbase.com/moffetb/image/94197697/medium.jpg) (http://www.pbase.com/moffetb/vision&page=all)
Brian
Thats just a typo, they should be peaned over. Take a chisel and hammer and make three cuts around the edge of the bolt , then a drift and mushroom the end over.
Ok, I'll take a look. Basically, the idea is to keep the nut from being able to come off easily, right?
Quote from: Rick G on May 04, 2008, 05:33:15 PM
Thats just a typo, they should be peaned over. Take a chisel and hammer and make three cuts around the edge of the bolt , then a drift and mushroom the end over.
FYI, I think I've found the jets that I need (130s) here on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mikuni-Sm-Round-N102-221-Main-Jet-Fuel-Jets-Carburetor_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35597QQihZ007QQitemZ170214272635QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mikuni-Sm-Round-N102-221-Main-Jet-Fuel-Jets-Carburetor_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35597QQihZ007QQitemZ170214272635QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW)
-m@
You can also buy them (the normal jets) at the motorcycle shop, they're standard size. Mikuni I think? I think I paid around 5.00 for the one I needed. Not the Emulsion tube though.
Brian
your pilot jet caps can be made useable by cutting a new slot with a dremil tool. they may be the same as 82's if so i have a few spares. i'll check.
Cool. I'll check with the local shop. Guess I just figured that anything for this bike would be hard to find and/or special order at this point. :)
Quote from: Brian Moffet on May 04, 2008, 06:43:35 PM
You can also buy them (the normal jets) at the motorcycle shop, they're standard size. Mikuni I think? I think I paid around 5.00 for the one I needed. Not the Emulsion tube though.
Brian
Thanks for the tip. I can make that work on one of them, but the other is pretty messed up.
Quote from: Lucky on May 04, 2008, 06:51:31 PM
your pilot jet caps can be made useable by cutting a new slot with a dremil tool. they may be the same as 82's if so i have a few spares. i'll check.
Quote from: Windjammer on May 04, 2008, 05:55:03 PM
OK, I'll take a look. Basically, the idea is to keep the nut from being able to come off easily, right?
Quote from: Rick G on May 04, 2008, 05:33:15 PM
Thats just a typo, they should be peaned over. Take a chisel and hammer and make three cuts around the edge of the bolt , then a drift and mushroom the end over.
yes, thats the idea. I also use green locktite, its the one that takes an act of congress to get off.
I picked up the jets at the local Yamaha shop and should have the emulsion tube soon, so I should be able to start putting the carbs back together by this weekend.
A question about dipping it though... It looks extremely clean -no signs of varnish anywhere, like maybe it had been dipped and cleaned when it was taken off the bike. Is it still better to dip it just as a precaution before I put it back on the bike?
If so, what's the recommended carb cleaner / dipping solution? Are there any parts that shouldn't be dipped?
Thanks.
-m@
Berrymans carb and parts dip is very good, don't dip anything rubber or plastic. Yes dip it , they can look very clean ,but be plugged up inside. Don't dip it longer than 20/25 min. There are rubber seals inside on the butterfly shaft , that can't be seen , but will deterorate with extended exposure to carb dip. Also be sure to remove the accelerator spray nozzles , use carb spray to clean and verify cleanleness on them. Some screws may not come out with out damage to the slots , so be prepared to replace any that look shoddy.
Ok, thanks. Are there any parts that I should pay special attention to - things that are typically a problem area? Should I dip the petcock? (wow, say that in mixed company some time! ;-)
Quote from: Rick G on May 07, 2008, 02:16:38 PM
Berrymans carb and parts dip is very good, don't dip anything rubber or plastic. Yes dip it , they can look very clean ,but be plugged up inside. Don't dip it longer than 20/25 min. There are rubber seals inside on the butterfly shaft , that can't be seen , but will deterorate with extended exposure to carb dip. Also be sure to remove the accerator spray nozzles , use carb spray to clean and verify cleanleness on them. Some screws may not come out with out dammage to the slots , so be prepared to replace any that look shoddy.
Quote from: Lucky on May 03, 2008, 11:53:30 PM
I have the 83 jet you need. soon as you figure out which one. make sure the 'missing' one isn't still in there.
for gods sake be careful with 2 parts of that 83 carb:
1) don't break a float or float post (part that the float pivot pin goes thru)
2) the control valve on top of the rear accelerator pump. it's a multipart valve with a diaphram. if you try to unscrew the bolt holding the diaphram together it'll probably break. chances are it's fine anyway, leave it alone.
3) don't bother taking the dual diaphram apart on the back of the petcock (flat plate with 6 screws and 2 round castings on it) only 2 or 3 of us have the custom homemade tools to recreate that diaphram (& #2 above) & the results are hit or miss.
all these parts are UNOBTANIUM & your very possably screwed without them.
scared yet? good, be scared, but also, don't worry, we won't let an 83 die for some small part...
--Lucky
She's coming along... I just did the tank treatment with the Caswell epoxy resin. That's good stuff! I followed the direction of a prior post on ROV, using about 5 gallons of Acetone and letting it soak quite a while. For anyone who does this in the future, be careful with filling your tank to the top with the Acetone. I found out that it expands, and when it does that and burps out of your tank, it'll eat the clear coat and paint right off your tank. Luckily I caught it pretty quickly. Another lessen learned, do NOT collect the drained out Acetone in a plastic container - duh! Thankfully, I got it out of the garage just before it ate through the bottom of the 5 gallon jug.
It's on to carb dipping this weekend. On that subject, my float gaskets seem to be really hardened on. Does anyone have a trick for getting them off? Is it a bad idea to dip the carbs with them on? Is it worth trying to salvage them? They still look pretty good.
Thanks,
-m@
I use a razor blade to get mine off. Even with a light touch you can score the aluminum so go slow. Most likely if they are that crusty you won't be able to get them off in one piece. Might want to look into a siriussonic's kits on ebay.
If you don't want to spring for syrusconics kits, I have patterns to make any gasket on the vision, except the head gaskets. PM me if you want any.
Thanks, I'll give that a shot. I see that there are some OEM ones on ebay right now, so I might bid on those if they stay cheap.
Quote from: kwells on May 09, 2008, 11:13:06 PM
I use a razor blade to get mine off. Even with a light touch you can score the aluminum so go slow. Most likely if they are that crusty you won't be able to get them off in one piece. Might want to look into a siriussonic's kits on ebay.
Just remember that 82 & 83 carbs do not use the same float bowl gaskets.
H2O
Damn! The set on ebay now lists them as fitting an 82 or 83. I looked at the picture and compared it - it looks like they're significantly different.
Thanks for pointing that out!
Quote from: h2olawyer on May 10, 2008, 02:27:33 PM
Just remember that 82 & 83 carbs do not use the same float bowl gaskets.
H2O
Huh... I just noticed that my login changed to the one I tried to set up originally. I'm back to Windjammer now. :-\
Hey Rick, I think I'm going to take you up on the gasket patterns offer. I'll PM you my address.
Thanks!
Quote from: Rick G on May 09, 2008, 11:19:00 PM
If you don't want to spring for syrusconics kits, I have patterns to make any gasket on the vision, except the head gaskets. PM me if you want any.
Ok, so last night I took the stator cover off. (no stator inside, as the prev owner had pulled it for another bike), but I do have the new one in a box. Seems I don't have any of the mounting bolts, etc. for the case or the stator itself. Can anyone recommend a place to pick up replacements for these at a reasonable price?
Also, can anyone point me to good series of pictures online that covers stator replacement?
Thanks.
-m@
If you can't get them locally, I can fix you up with the hardware you need.
i can't remember the length, standard metric whatever it is, but use hex head bolts & LOCK WASHERS. as the bolts will be a few thousands too long and cause a very annoying & probably detrimental buzzz as the stator vibrates. i know... they are much easier to get off should you ever need to do the job again. using phillips screws as originaly equiped requires use of an impact driver which risks scarring up the outside of the case...
--Lucky
>>Hex head bolts.
That makes sense to me. Since I wasn't the one who originally took the stator out and haven't done one of these before, I took the cover off and slid the stator directly into the rotor - wow! It sucked that little bugger right in there! Then I looked at a few diagrams and figured out that it was supposed to be bolted to the cover. Newbies... :-)
Quote from: Lucky on May 15, 2008, 11:23:38 PM
i can't remember the length, standard metric whatever it is, but use hex head bolts & LOCK WASHERS. as the bolts will be a few thousands too long and cause a very annoying & probably detrimental buzzz as the stator vibrates. i know... they are much easier to get off should you ever need to do the job again. using phillips screws as originaly equiped requires use of an impact driver which risks scarring up the outside of the case...
--Lucky
There are different length bolts, with different length shoulders, used at different locations around the cover perimeter. I think that there is also some type of barrel shaped thing(possibly for location purposes) that goes between the case and its' cover. You can replace all of the bolts from the hardware store (I highly recommend socket heads).................BUT, IT IS CRITICAL that the right length with the right shoulder length goes in the right hole.
The Haynes manual recommends making a drawing of the cover gasket on cardboard and sticking each bolt through its' respective hole in the drawing as it it is removed from the engine.
I hope other Forum dudes or dudettes can provide you with data regarding bolt length and locations.
Woosh! QBS, we meant the stator mounting bolts, but you are right, just answering a question that wasn't asked yet :D
Thanks for pointing that out! I'm missing both the stator mounting bolts AND the cover mount bolts, so it's good info. I'll check to the schematic (maybe on BikeBandit.com?) and see if there's any better info on the lengths.
Quote from: QBS on May 16, 2008, 06:04:35 PM
There are different length bolts, with different length shoulders, used at different locations around the cover perimeter. I think that there is also some type of barrel shaped thing(possibly for location purposes) that goes between the case and its' cover. You can replace all of the bolts from the hardware store (I highly recommend socket heads).................BUT, IT IS CRITICAL that the right length with the right shoulder length goes in the right hole.
The Haynes manual recommends making a drawing of the cover gasket on cardboard and sticking each bolt through its' respective hole in the drawing as it it is removed from the engine.
I hope other Forum dudes or dudettes can provide you with data regarding bolt length and locations.
Windjammer, I have a set of bolts take from a vision I disassembled I can send them with your gaskets, do you need the dowel pins also?
Rick, that'd be great! I have replacements for the 3 stator mount bolts right now, but I'm still looking for the 10 cover mount bolts. I just checked and I do in fact have the dowel pins.
Send me a PM and let me know what you need for them.
Thanks again, Rick.
-m@
Quote from: Rick G on May 16, 2008, 11:16:28 PM
Windjammer, I have a set of bolts take from a vision I disassembled I can send them with your gaskets, do you need the dowel pins also?