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As far as I know only some year models of the RZ350 uses the same caliper
Most all brake parts available from Yambits.co.uk
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TechTalk / caliper rebuild kits with slider pin boots - or calipers
« Last post by MikeScoot on Today at 04:51:16 AM »
Does anyone know where I might be able to get a couple of caliper rebuild kits with slider pin boots?
OR a set (L & R) of working calipers?
If anyone knows which other Yamahas share these calipers it would be great info too. I think the XJ650 might have had the same left and right calipers, but would be grateful for info on other models that share them or similar that fit.
Thanks,
Mike

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3/4" length of 5mm hex (Allen) key in a 5mm 1/4" drive socket, electrical tape to keep from separating. 1/4" drive universal joint and extensions to suit.

Off to Ebay again. Ha ha ha.
Cheers
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Carburetors / Re: Carb tuning and deactivating YICS
« Last post by fret not on Today at 02:17:28 AM »
Well, that looks nicely crafted.
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On the stock exhaust remove the y-pipe first and the there is more room to get to them.  I must have used my 5mm socket drive bits.  I also have some hex 'ball-end' drivers that I highly recommend.  They let one get at allen screws from an angle.
Ah, must get some if I can't make the long key work. Cheers.
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Thanks fellas.

I ordered a extra-long (165mm) 5mm (ball end) last night. Also a bloke I work with is going to bring some other stuff in.

Happy right now 'cos I just ordered a used (but good) stock muffler/collectorbox assembly and already have a good 'y' piece and gasket ring fasteners. Should all bolt together nicely once the old stuff is off.
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Carburetors / Re: Carb tuning and deactivating YICS
« Last post by injuhneer on December 08, 2019, 07:10:30 PM »
The YICS is different but back when I had XJs I had the same problem finding a tool.

I didn't want to use a MacGyver version of the tool. I made one. Local shop owner let me get dimensions from the tool in their shop.



This probably isn't news but the YICS ports obviously impact vacuum for the fuel pump. Yesterday while working on the startup of my XZ after storage and a carb rebuild it started and idled fine. It backfired once then would not start. The backfire blew the cap I had put on the YICS port on the front cylinder: the result was  insufficient vacuum for the fuel pump.
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TechTalk / Re: How to reach rear exhaust screws to head with engine in frame?
« Last post by kevin g on December 08, 2019, 11:57:55 AM »
On the stock exhaust remove the y-pipe first and the there is more room to get to them.  I must have used my 5mm socket drive bits.  I also have some hex 'ball-end' drivers that I highly recommend.  They let one get at allen screws from an angle.
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TechTalk / Re: How to reach rear exhaust screws to head with engine in frame?
« Last post by George R. Young on December 08, 2019, 10:22:31 AM »
3/4" length of 5mm hex (Allen) key in a 5mm 1/4" drive socket, electrical tape to keep from separating. 1/4" drive universal joint and extensions to suit.

This is fresh in my mind as I just removed the rear cam chain tensioner adjustor from an '03 SV650S, which is conveniently located in a blind hole behind engine and frame. I have a set of 1/2" drive Allen key sockets, but the 5mm 'just wouldn't fit in there'.

Most motorcycle and car nuts and bolts can be handled with 1/4" or 1/2" drive socket sets and creative lash-ups.
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TechTalk / How to reach rear exhaust screws to head with engine in frame?
« Last post by MikeScoot on December 08, 2019, 02:50:30 AM »
Even with the swing-arm off the screws into the head for the rear exhaust are un-Yamahaishly difficult to get at. I think I'll have to get an especially long 5mm hex set-up, but even then it will be very tricky doe to the flex through the hex shaft. There's no room for anything sturdier from what I can see.
Have I missed an easier way to do it?
Thanks
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