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TechTalk / Re: Making triple cflamps
« Last post by Ron_McCoy on Today at 08:44:15 PM »
Blake, Iíve done steering stems the way the way youíre describing and that works well, but the last couple that Iíve done on Visions  Iíve used the Vision stem. I grind the weld off the bottom of the lower clamp and press out the stem. Then, depending on the triple clamps youíre using, either bore the clamps to fit or make bushings if the holes are too large. Then press the stem in the lower clamp. This way you can use Vision steering head bearings. Of course you end up with a steel steering stem and not a nice aluminum one like your project.

If you want a diffent angle for the fork tubes from the steering stem, drawing what you want and taking the angle you need and hole centers from the drawing saves a lot of math and works very well.

Ron
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TechTalk / Re: Making triple cflamps
« Last post by Blake on April 19, 2018, 06:52:13 PM »
Is there a particular reason you want to make the clamps, rather than adapt the steering stem and new triple trees?  I'm not kidding when i say if you have access to even just a metal bandsaw, belt sander, and a welder, you could easily crank it out in a weekend.  I pressed a piece of steel in the middle of my steering stem to act like an alignment pin, then welded it all up.  If you're swapping the forks, you're not going to achieve the exact same characteristics as the stock suspension..  doing some math to find the new rake and trail, it might not be bad, and actually might feel better to you.  I'm just excited other people are going forward with fork swaps on these bikes now.


As for building new clamps- it's not entirely hard to do either, but i would recommend you have a machine shop cut it out.   For my upper triple clamp, i measured it entirely using a harbor freight dial caliper and a tape measure.  Drew it out and sent it to a machinist friend who then cut it for me out of some 1" aluminum stock without every seeing the bike/stock clamp.  One of the fork holes is ever-so-slightly too tight though.  I think we forgot to cut slightly larger for a slip fit or i'm just a hair off between the centerlines.  Anyway, figure out your center to center distances between the forks, measure the actual OD (+.002 or more for a "slip fit), cut a slot to each hole to "clamp" it, and bolt holes on the side.    As long as your center-center-steering stem distances are all exactly the same (top half and bottom half) you should be fine.  The technical issues come if you want to angle the forks so they're not parallel with the steering neck.  Then you better be good on your math, as your lower clamps will need be further from the stem than the top.   
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TechTalk / Re: Making triple cflamps
« Last post by fret not on April 19, 2018, 01:14:12 AM »
As Ron McCoy did, I intend to make top and bottom triple clamps.  I hadn't thought far enough ahead to think about using stock indicator lights and fork lock.  More decisions to make.
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TechTalk / Re: Making triple cflamps
« Last post by Blake on April 18, 2018, 08:18:11 AM »
Or are you looking to just make a new upper triple?  In one of those albums I had one made and bought clipons that I never used.   
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TechTalk / Re: Making triple cflamps
« Last post by Blake on April 17, 2018, 09:05:51 PM »
What are you specifically looking for?   I had both a machined top triple made and modified a TLR1000 triple to bolt to the XZ550 neck (not that difficult with a bit of googling before hand)


The cliffnotes version for a front end swap:

find the ID/OD dimensions of the visions top and lower bearings
find a front end cheap that you want to use (complete is always cheaper).  Look up that particular model's bearing specs (I think I used allballs.  At least i used their bearings)
Cross reference the ID of the front end you want to use with the bearing chart to find an ID of the new triple tree stem and the OD of the vision.   If you can find it.  it's a match!
Now do as much googling as you can to find the rough length of the new triple stem.  Make some educated guess as to specific transitions spots (Where the bearings actually sit/the top nut clamps down).   If you think it's close enough- buy the front end and the bearings  Buy two of the lower bearings! (you'll see why)

Now here is the tricky part.  when you get the new front end, mount the new lower bearing on that fits the vision's neck.
mount the front end into the  neck
You'll see the neck doesn't exactly fit.
Put the new bearing onto the triple tree
take a dial caliper and as BEST AS YOU CAN- meausure the offset you need to make that neck fit perfectly.  measure 50 times, and make a detailed drawing!   Measure, remove, reinstall in an hour and come back and measure again until you are 100% satisfied it will be in the correct place.
NOTE: it is better to be slightly "long" than slightly short.  if the neck is too long you can compensate with washers.  if it's too short you're screwed.

Now have someone cut the neck in the middle and add (or subtract) the exact amount you need to make the neck the correct length.
Reweld the neck back together
install bearings.
Look cool with your new front end.


That's about it.  Look at my pictures from March to May 2016 here as I tried to document what i did:  https://stoddard.smugmug.com/XZ550   

Of course, this method is if you accept the slight difference in trail, etc of the new forks.  I have no clue where i wrote down the measurements for mine, but it really wasn't that much of a difference.  Can't tell you if it rides like crap yet as I have the forks installed but havent finished the bike due to moving (a few times).  Most of my parts are in storage bins in my dad's shed until i find some free time to put it all back together.


Blake
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TechTalk / Re: Carburation Question
« Last post by artbone on April 16, 2018, 12:11:46 PM »
When the problem started in the past was after the bike was warmed up and then shut down. When it started running correctly again it was like a switch was thrown. Yesterday I was riding about 60 mph and it started running on one cylinder again, like a switch was thrown. Because I was messing with the carbs I forgot the old rule of thumb - ďMost Carburator Problems Are Electrical.Ē I was all set to pull the carbs and go through the fuel pump, change all the hoses, etc.

I did a search on ďRev LimiterĒ and found that the yellow and black wire is the one to cut and tape up to disconnect the offending device. I think for me the easiest place to do that is right at the TCI unit. I canít face taking that fairing off again. Now I see that fiat-doctor has posted the same info with the suggestion that I release the wire from the connector block so I can put it back to stock if I want to but I donít know why I would want to do that. As I said, I never turn it over 10K and I didnít even know it had a rev limiter.

I donít see how anyone gets or keeps one of these running without being a member of this group. Thanks everyone for the advice.
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TechTalk / Re: Carburation Question
« Last post by fiat-doctor on April 16, 2018, 11:13:04 AM »
At the TCI there is a Yellow/Black wire.   This grounds the TCI when the tach senses an over rev and kills one cylinder.  I use a small probe and release the wire from the connector block at the TCI.  This way you can always put it back to stock if you want to.

I have had a couple of TCI's fail where it would quit running on one cylinder when it got warm.
If you have access to a spare it's a 5 minute swap for testing.

Steve
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TechTalk / Re: Carburation Question
« Last post by artbone on April 16, 2018, 09:44:45 AM »
You are right Walt! Thatís exactly what it sounds like. I didnít know there was a rev limiter on this bike. I take it up to 10K once in a while just to see if it will do it but normally I never shift at over 9K. Where is the rev limiter and how do I disconnect it?
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TechTalk / Re: Carburation Question
« Last post by Walt_M. on April 16, 2018, 05:43:39 AM »
That sounds a lot like a failing rev limiter. Have you disconnected yours?
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TechTalk / Re: Carburation Question
« Last post by cvincer on April 16, 2018, 03:10:52 AM »

Out of interest.......after the bike has been ridden long enough to get completely warm,  let sit for

30 to 45 minutes & then drain each float bowl into a measuring cup & see how much comes out of

 each.
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