Riders Of Vision

To clarify, fully charge the battery and see what the voltage drops to when cranking.

Did you get a it running when hooked up to the other battery or still no spark? Was there any popping that would indicate some ignition? You should still get spark at 11.5 volts.

Did the wires from the stator connect to the r/r or to the ecu? If the ignition pickups are wired to the ecu and there is no spark then the ecu is likely dead.

Have you ever had this bike running and what has been done to it since it last ran?

I went back and read the posts and I hadn't checked voltage as I was cranking it so I may have lied about the results.  As I'm cranking it and with jumper cables hook to another 12 volt it drops to 11.5.  a problem?

Current update:

I have not had a recurrence of the problems experienced before installing the new TCI unit.  I had a different problem once as follows:

Bike warming up in the driveway in the normal fashion, then tach dropped to 0 and engine ran on one cylinder.  I turned it off, let it sit for 5-10 minutes, and re-started it.  Problem was gone and has not returned.  While tis is similar to the problem that led me to buy and install the new TCI, it is definitely not the same.  Maybe I've got a coil problem?  The rev limiter circuit was cut when I got the bike, so I don't think that is causing this.

Walt refers to my post from last fall.  I have added to it FYI

Sounds like a bad TCI to me. If you have an original you must remember that it is 40 years old and they will fail. You might try to find a replacement but it will also be 40 years old. Somebody on here got an Ignitech not too long ago, pretty sure it worked but I would have to find the post. The post is just down the page and it was cheaper than I thought at $170.

No need to rebuild the starter as your voltage is staying high enough to fire. A r/r doesn't have anything to do with the ignition system. Have you had the connections undone on the ecu and wires from the stator. The connection from the stator will plug into the ecu as it is the same plug and will fry the ecu. Double check those connections.

I have above 12 volts when cracking.  Shouldn't there also be a single spark shortly after turning the key on?  Either way, no spark.  Will a faulty r/r cause such behavior?  Should I take starter off?  I rebuilt this starter several years ago.  Seems like. I should still get the single pop on key turn.  I am out of my league despite historically changing all electrical components.  It's run great for at least 4 years.  Any help is much appreciated.

Check the voltage at the battery while cranking and also note the voltage before cranking. A good battery should show 12.6 volts.

Thank you for your replies.  I never thought of the starter, since it seems like it's engaging properly.  so yes, it's cranking just not starting and it's not starting because there is no spark.

Where do I meter the voltage during cranking?  At the starter?

We've reached the summer break. Marquez has yet to complete a race and Ducati lost a sprint and 1 Gp. Exciting season, not. Doubt if I get video pass next year.