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Off Topic / cant seem to stay home
« Last post by kiawrench on April 29, 2023, 11:51:20 AM »
for some reason i cant seem to stay home. been away in the employ of a certain PMC, doing what they ask for the money i get. still have 1 vision,, now kia black cherry with a few additions, i found an original set of vetter hard bags and the super rare seat top box  all look like matching brief cases  with the seat topper being twice as thick and a small back pad.  the bike runs and is road ready but she spends a lot of time in the house while i work - keeps my bike mine.
TechTalk / Re: Runs (almost) fine in neutral, no power in gear
« Last post by jefferson on March 28, 2023, 09:58:42 AM »
I kind of doubt that dropping the bike caused this. Stranger things have happened of course, but my money is on the carb. Jets got put in the wrong spot or something isn't assembled right.
TechTalk / Re: Runs (almost) fine in neutral, no power in gear
« Last post by karmisol on March 27, 2023, 10:57:40 AM »
Thanks for a few more things to check!

I'm not able to pull away at any point.

Exhaust issue: I have felt with my hand and it seems like the pressure is even, but I'll use a usb wire camera to check the exhaust
Gas amount: Should not be a problem, but I'll add some more just to be safe
I may take apart the carb once more, I'm not really sure of the order of things, but I think I got the carb refurbish kit as a response to the machine not having power

It seems a long time ago, but I think the issue may have started when I either took apart the carb the first time - or when I dropped the bike.

TechTalk / Re: Runs (almost) fine in neutral, no power in gear
« Last post by jefferson on March 26, 2023, 07:49:27 PM »
More questions for you.  What is your fuel level in the tank when you have the petcock on prime. If there isn't much fuel in the tank then that could be an issue for getting fuel to the carb. I know others have had jets in these refurbish kits not be the correct size or be marked right, but not the right size orifice. This makes you run lean or rich depending on which way it's messed up and it sounds like you are lean. I never had to run mine on choke for any length of time to get it to run right and not being able to take off with 4000 revs on the clock point to that also. Can you pull away with the choke on? Everybody's bike is different I know. One other thing that might be affecting things is something plugging up your exhaust like an old mouse nest or something.
TechTalk / Re: Runs (almost) fine in neutral, no power in gear
« Last post by karmisol on March 26, 2023, 03:21:21 PM »
Alright. So I'm out of ideas.

I have fixed the charging issue.
I have fixed the issue with RPM increasing by itself
The bike still has no power.

For the power issues I have:
Repaired vacuum leaks using new hosing & new manifolds
Cleaned the carbs and used a refurbish kit for all the jets
Synced the carbs using both vacuum clock & the "fluid in a hose method"
Verified that there is spark on both cylinders

I have two main symptoms:
1. There is no power, I can almost not roll away with the machine even when I rev it up to 4000 RPM on 1st gear.
2. Before the engine heats up it doesn't respond well when giving it gas and dies easily. (Works fine when using the choke though, so I assume this is expected behaviour)

Soon I'll give up.
One very stupid question, while testing last time I had the bike on 'PRI' all the time. Could that also be an issue?

As usual the bike fell. I put the stand on a small dirt patch which apparently didn't have asphalt below. So now the coupling-handle is broken again... Just wanted to share my pain on that one.
General Board / Re: Neglecting my Vision
« Last post by fret not on March 21, 2023, 06:39:37 PM »
Some time ago I read 'directions' for using one of those modern batteries in very cold weather:  turn on the headlight for a couple minutes before trying to start the motor, As this causes the battery to generate a bit of internal heat and makes the chemical reaction a bit more vigorous.
TechTalk / Re: flywheel removal
« Last post by fret not on March 21, 2023, 06:33:18 PM »
When you get to the part where you "give it a whack" use a large hammer and some enthusiasm, as it can require some effort.  When I removed the flywheel on my Vision I was surprised at how much "abuse" it required (a hell of a whack, or several), and how far things flew.  There can be a lot of energy released when it finally releases. 
Look for wear on the rollers as they are the focus of energy when they do their job.  Also on the ramps where the rollers ride.  There should not be any ripples or unevenness of the surfaces.  I had to replace the rollers(ripples) and the body of the starter clutch(cracked). 
Fortunately the starter clutch applies to several other models, so is likely to be available for some years yet.

TechTalk / Re: flywheel removal
« Last post by JBEVARDOS on March 21, 2023, 12:36:38 PM »
Hi Brian  , what  bike did you get ?
TechTalk / Re: flywheel removal
« Last post by cvincer on March 20, 2023, 08:41:46 PM »
With the 'puller' in position, ensuring equal tension on the 3 'puller' bolts, tighten up the centre bolt & give it a whack with a hammer...& hopefully the flywheel pops off onto the soft landing you have arranged.  If it does not, tighten the centre bolt a bit more & whack (its very important to have equal tension being applied by the other 3 bolts otherwise the flywheel will not come off because it is on a taper with a woodruff key).

If every thing to do with the starter clutch is ok & its securing bolts have been peened, I'd leave it.  Any problems with the starter clutch, remove, fix problems, re-attach starter clutch to flywheel using 'Loctite' on securing bolts + peen securing bolts.
TechTalk / flywheel removal
« Last post by briandneville on March 20, 2023, 10:45:13 AM »
I've wanted to check the starter clutch for loose bolts / anything else as there has been some clunking associated with starter use since I bought my Vision in 2023.

Reading old threads and looking at grainy manual photos I have deduced the following:

-starter clutch is behind flywheel
-gear puller of some type needed to remove flywheel
      -must have 3 machine screws to thread into the back of the flywheel
      -must have center pusher rod to apply pressure to the shaft, removing flywheel by pulling on the three machine screws
      -prepare for the release to be somewhat sudden, and starter clutch parts to fall to floor (use something soft to catch them)
-once starter clutch has been inspected and 'fixed', reassemble using bolt to move flywheel back onto the shaft, position of flywheel determined by shape of shaft so it cannot go on at the wrong rotational position

If any of this sounds wrong I'd appreciate corrections / tips.  This is the first time I've removed the left side engine cover.  Gasket came right off and looks good so think I can re-use it.

I do not know exactly what I am looking for on the starter clutch, other than loose bolts, cracks, wear, so I will probably follow up with more questions.

Thanks for any advice!
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