Riders Of Vision

Ok, its obvious that I just need to tear down my new (new to me) V and go over it top-to-bottom...  Kind of wish I had found this forum BEFORE I bought it, but oh well...  I'm sure to have a serious emotional investment in this bike by the time I'm riding it again.  And I will KNOW my bike.

Anyway, I went and got myself a multi-meter to check for stator continuity and I guess I just need some second opinions...   Between the three white wires, the readings were all .9.   Between each of the white wires and the engine casing, the readings were 1.0, 1.0, and .6.

Does this mean I am about to buy a new stator?  And just where am I going to find it?

Just as well, I guess...   I already have to have the side cover off to replace the starter clutch bolts, may as well do the stator at the same time.  BTW: Will I need to replace the starter clutch itself?

Oh, and while I have the oil out of the crankcase, I may as well send in my oily starter for a new seal and a good cleaning.

And I guess since I'll be off the road anyway, I'll pull out the carbs and send them to Lucky for a servicing (still need some details about that service, Lucky).  

Then, while I'm at it, I'll just go ahead and Kreem the inside of my tank to protect from any rust-related carb problems.

And finally, while I'm waiting for all my parts to be shipped back from servicing, I'll do the electrical system and fuse box.

But then, THEN....

My Vision should be trouble-free...

Right?

Hey shwuz, sometime ago I made few tests on mine and as far as I remember there should be no continuity between wires and engine case. So it should be (if u have multimeter in diode test function) 1.

There should be continuity between each of 3 wires. The continuity should be some 0,32..... sth asth,  but mine multimeter is not so accurate and it just showed  that there is continuity (diode test and ohmometer) so it showed me 0.

One thing u have to do is to go to www.electrexusa.com, and there u will find fault finding chart. It is made for comlepetely green people (like me) and it really helps.

Still Start your engine and check AC voltage on those wires (each pair) 1-2 2-3 - 1-3

every pair should give u more then 50V AC. Mine showed about 80 - 90V at 5000 rpms and 150 - 180V at 9000.

Then u stator is good.

Once again find this fault finding chart it will certainly help u. Still Visit Lucky's page and click on charging. There are few fine documents there too. Lets hope it is not the stator, maybe she wants to resto for a week in garage (like mine):)

80-85V @ 4000 RPM....

So, my stator is good then? ? I guess reason would indicate that if my stator is pumping out voltage, then it must be my regulator/rectifier, right? ? But I still have the problem of there being continuity between my stator wires and the case... ?What could that mean?

Help?

Waitaminit!

A 1 on the multimeter on continuity test means NO continuity?  I'm confused...

I applaud your commitment to a really worthy motorcycle.  Before you spend anymore $, buy a Haynes manual.

Regarding your Starter Clutch question:  By all means do the attachment bolt replacement (Luckys' site has good instruction on this matter).  If your clutch housing is uncracked, your only concern will be clutch rollers with flat spots.  Replace any that are flatted.   The springs usually don't need replacement.  If the housing is cracked it can probably be welded up.  Cheers.

Yup, follow the electrex chart, solder both connectors on the reg/rec too (after testing and any replacements)

i would suggest you use POR-15 instead of Kreem.  some carb cleaners such as Berrymans B-12 Chemtool will disolve the kreem coating, severly mucking up the carbs. POR-15 is impervious to everything. www.por15.com, or follow the link on my site.

carb rebuild consists of complete inspection, tear-down, diping/cleaning, reassembly & initial adjustment of the carbs. you will need to have them synced to your own bike.  I will also replace the bowl gasketts and other parts if needed &  they are available.  (I make the bowl gasketts if needed)

cost is $60 plus shipping & insurance. (avg $17)  email me if you have any questions.
--Lucky

QQBS~  The Haynes is on the way, should be here friday.  Then the real fun can begin!

So does everyone else agree with my assesment that the R/R is the problem, and not the stator?  I guess I could actually follow that electro-flow chart all the way through and find out for sure....  

And if the R/R is the problem, where can I find a replacement?
And where can I find the nose seal for the starter?  I found the specs for it on your site, Lucky, but no sources...
How about the clutch rollers?  Does yamaha still stock those?

Thanks a ton everyone, I sure am glad this community exists to help preserve these cool bikes.  I'm sure once I get mine running the way it should, I'll be glad I put the time into it.

STARTER SEALS
Stock  seal (no spring) 20x35x5  
Spring seal dimensions 20x 35x 6

Bearings Specialty Co, Warwick, RI
(401) 739-9000
20x35x6 $2.62 Single lip
20x35x6 $3.03 Double Lip
Min Quantity 5 each.
ALL HAVE THE SPRING

Oh, THAT source, right!

Thanks, Lucky!