How to remove stuck needle seat in carb?

[VK]

Carbs needed cleaning.  With help of Haynes manual have disassembled but the inlet needle valve seat does not come out of the upper body.  Further complicating matters, I did not notice it had not come out (first time cleaning carbs) and already dipped the upper body in Berrymans, which I assume has melted the rubber gasket off of the needle seat.  Two questions.

1) How the heck do I get the needle valve seat out?  I of course already removed the clamp as depicted in figure 11.8 in the Haynes manual, but the thing that the clamp goes against, which presumably is the needle valve seat, is stuck as firm as can be.

2) Am I correct in assuming I can just put a new rubber gasket on the needle valve seat once I have it removed?  If so, do you know what the correct size is?

Thanks for your help!  VK

[QBS]

First thing:  When removing the float pivot pin be DAMN sure you know how it comes out.  Float pivot pin removal is NOT intuitive and will in all likelihood result in broken float pedestals unless the correct procedure is carefully practised.  See Luckys' CD and or your Haynes manual for the correct procedure.
After the float is out, the valve seat unscrews from the carb top.

[VK]

QBS, I did use the Haynes manual and had no problem removing the float pin.  I also had no problem removing the clamp screw.  The problem is that the inlet need valve seat remains stuck the the body.  The picture of the needle seat on pg 104 of the Haynes manual does not show any threads (figure 11.16c).  How exactly do I grip this thing to unscrew it from the carb top?

[QBS]

I apolagize.  The seat does not screw into the carb top.  It slides into the carb top and is held in place by the screwed on y shaped holder.  After the holder is removed, grip the seat with padded pliers and twist back and forth work it out.  The seat is thick enough so that it shouldn't crush unless excessive plier clamp pressure is applied.  Even it the pliers should mark the seats' exposed upper surface, no harm will be done as the critical part of the seat/the actual seat itself is down inside the seat where you can't get to it.  Just don't mark up the surface area of the seat that actually penetrates into the carb top.

[VK]

Thank you much QBS, your tip did the trick.  I cut off a bit of inner tube to put around the seat, gripped it with a pliers, and with a bit of twisting, got it to give way at last.  No visible marring on the surface.  As near as I can tell, the o-ring looks fine too, so hopefully am good to go.  Thanks again for the help!