First time here

[ironb12s]

Rust at the filler is likely a product of outdoor storage.  That isn't nearly as damaging as the rust on the bottom, however.

[ironb12s]

Hey IB,
I am the one who referred you to this forum. As you have probably already witnessed, there is an awful lot of information here about the Vision. The Por-15 has a website at http://por15.com/

<snipped>

MotorPlow
~Chris

And, I thank you, Chris. 

[Aelwulf]

*notes sig* Always good to have another Browncoat around too. ;)

[ironb12s]

Let us get back to the discussion of the starter refusing to turn after it is hot.  I doubt seriously that it is the oil-filled starter syndrome, but one never knows.   ???   When I let it sit for about an hour to cool off, it would start right up.  I could bump start, get it rolling and dump the clutch in 2nd with the ignition on, and it would start even when hot.  It isn't a TCI issue, but the relay may be suspect.

Today, with the issues that you've had, H2O, I tore the charging and starting systems apart...well, the connections, anyway...on Brandi, the GSF1200S.  Had corrosion at the relay on the starter side, and on the plug going into the generator.  Could not get the engine/main ground loose, it bolts down on one of the case bolts on the rear on the tranny.  Still, I scrubbed all of the blades that I could with a SS wire brush and emery tape, 'til they were shiny.   :)  Also, didn't pull the main line to the starter from it, but I checked resistance with the battery out (blade to frame/engine) got ~0.0 (+/-.1) ohms.  Same with battery in and hooked up, so I've got a good starting/charging system there.  The generator on this bike is a self-contained unit with an IC regulator built-in, driven off of the main gear from the crank, bolted down on top of  the tranny case behind the cylinders.  The starter sits below it and closer to the cylinders...it's smaller, about half the size of the generator. Put dielectric grease over all of the connections, even at the battery, when I was done.

One note that isn't talked to in any of the T-shooting How-To's that I've read, is the status of the multimeter that you use to check the voltage and resisitance... I tried a digital unit today, and it's battery was extremely questionable.  It would read 0 ohms at the test probes, but 0 with a blade touching either probe, even when the probes were touched...went back to the trusty analog unit that I have, and all was as it should be, even if it wasn't quite as accurate as the digital should be.  When I checked the 9V transistor power supply of the digital unit, it is 3.05V.   :o

Lesson, make sure that the measuration device(s) you use during the fix-it session have good power sources...